21st Century Pony
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- First Name
- Martin
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- May 21, 2022
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- Arlington, Virginia
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- Ford Mustang Mach E 2022 Premium AWD ER
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Yesterday I switched out the pair of admittedly decent OEM trumpet horns for two pairs of High Tone + Low Tone Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns, one pair per front corner of the MME.
What you need to buy:
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns, item number 72112 (Low tone) and item number 72102 (High tone). You'll need two pair, one for each front corner. They are sometimes sold singly, and at other time in pairs, one + one. Why Fiamm Freeway Blasters? - they are good enoug to come mounted on BMW motorcycles from the factory, and that makes them good enough for me. NOTE: Fiamm makes other, similar but not-as-loud horn models. It's hard to distinguish between models other than by the price and by the labels on the packaging. Picture at bottom. These Fiamm Freeway Blasters cost about 16 - 22 bucks per horn unless you luck into a deal.
Why High tone and Low tone? In my understanding, one tone penetrates better into sealed well-insulated vehicle cabins with loud music inside, while the other tone propagates farther in the air in noise-filled canyon-like rush-hour downtown streets - think Manhattan or Chicago. Don't remember the theory details, but I can testify to their combined effectiveness while on a motorcycle trying to get the attention of... you name it.
Ford aftermarket horn splitter plug-&-play pigtails. Many companies make these - I used Meerva.com on Amazon. That's the small green label in the picture, below the red horn labels. See 2d picture for an image of the pigtail. This item costs about 6 bucks. You'll need a pair, one for each front corner. Although you can just splice wires, I do suggest these plug-&-play pigtails for ease of later disconnection / reconnection, just in case.
Two small bolts (of short length, thread pitch and SAE or Metric size do not matter) with corresponding NyLock nuts, one per bolt. These bolts will tie two pieces of thin steel together... they do not need to be super-strong or thick.
1st step (unfortunately necessary): remove the entire front plastic bumper shroud. Note: this is why it might pay to combine this mod with another front mod, like adding a front bumper tow ring or a Lighted Pony. Unpinning, unplugging, removing and remounting this front bumper shroud is a time-suck and can require two people. PDF instructions provided by markboris are attached.
Step 2: remove both OEM horns. They are now visible and easily accessible, one per front corner. One is high tone, the other is low tone.
Step 3: open the four Fiamm packages. In every package, there will be a short straight metal bar with a hole on either end. One hole will mate with the existing OEM horn stalk mount hole (where the OEM horn stalk held its mounting nut) and the other hole will hold the other horn in the pair.
Step 4: mount one of the new Fiamms where the OEM horn was mounted, but add one of the short Fiamm bars to its back. Just like the OEM horn had been positioned, make sure the horn's trumpet is on the outside (toward you) of the curved OEM horn mounting bar, and that the trumpet "forward beak lip" faces to the front and not to the back. Make sure the horn opening points down, to avoid water getting in and blocking the horn. Do not tighten yet.
Step 5: rotate the short Fiamm bar behind the Fiamm horn so it points upward behind the horn and slightly to the rear of the car... like roughly 11 o'clock. Now drill a hole through both bars (the new Fiamm spare bar and the OEM curved horn bar in front of it) large enough for your bolt + Nylock nut. Insert bolt, tighten the Nylock nut. You've just created the mount for the other horn on that corner.
Step 6: hand the corresponding Fiamm horn on the top hole of the 11 o'clock bar, above the other horn but on the inside (away from you) of the bar, and pointing with its "beak lip" rearwards. You'll see there is plenty of inside space above and behind the 1st horn to do this, although on the driver's side the second horn will be close to the top of the windshield washer fluid container. Ensure the upper horn on that side has no contact with this plastic container. Make sure the horn's trumpet opening is also down. Now snug up both horns. NOTE: at this step, I always add blue Loctite to the threads of the horn's threaded stalks to keep everything secure despite the vibrations when the horns are activated.
Step 7: now for the wiring - start on the driver's side. There, the horn plug-&-play wiring connector has remained on the car when you took off the plastic bumper shield. Take all four of the short wires from the four Fiamm packing blisters. Cut all the four round grounding loops off. Add a small-size Posi-Tap to that end (or prepare to tap the wires into the pigtail wires another way of your choosing - I am a fanatic user of PosiTaps and PosiLocks because they save just SO MUCH TIME.
Step 8: add two of the Posi-Tapped wires, one each, to the pug-&-play pigtail wires, one each. Now, the plug-&-play pigtail will have two positive female spade wires and two negative (ground) female spade wires. Plug the pigtail into the Fordnhorn connector, and plug all four female spade ends into all the four male spade connectors on the two horns. Which connector to use doesn't matter as these horns do not have polarity... just make sure the two Posi-Tapped wires go to the higher horn. This will ensure that each horn has one positive and one ground connection.
Step 9: test by blowing the horn. You should hear the two-tone sound from the driver's front corner.
Step 10: remount the plastic turtle shell. Reconnect everything.
Step 11: repeat Steps 7, 8 and 9 on the passenger side.
Enjoy your new horn power!
What you need to buy:
Fiamm Freeway Blaster horns, item number 72112 (Low tone) and item number 72102 (High tone). You'll need two pair, one for each front corner. They are sometimes sold singly, and at other time in pairs, one + one. Why Fiamm Freeway Blasters? - they are good enoug to come mounted on BMW motorcycles from the factory, and that makes them good enough for me. NOTE: Fiamm makes other, similar but not-as-loud horn models. It's hard to distinguish between models other than by the price and by the labels on the packaging. Picture at bottom. These Fiamm Freeway Blasters cost about 16 - 22 bucks per horn unless you luck into a deal.
Why High tone and Low tone? In my understanding, one tone penetrates better into sealed well-insulated vehicle cabins with loud music inside, while the other tone propagates farther in the air in noise-filled canyon-like rush-hour downtown streets - think Manhattan or Chicago. Don't remember the theory details, but I can testify to their combined effectiveness while on a motorcycle trying to get the attention of... you name it.
Ford aftermarket horn splitter plug-&-play pigtails. Many companies make these - I used Meerva.com on Amazon. That's the small green label in the picture, below the red horn labels. See 2d picture for an image of the pigtail. This item costs about 6 bucks. You'll need a pair, one for each front corner. Although you can just splice wires, I do suggest these plug-&-play pigtails for ease of later disconnection / reconnection, just in case.
Two small bolts (of short length, thread pitch and SAE or Metric size do not matter) with corresponding NyLock nuts, one per bolt. These bolts will tie two pieces of thin steel together... they do not need to be super-strong or thick.
1st step (unfortunately necessary): remove the entire front plastic bumper shroud. Note: this is why it might pay to combine this mod with another front mod, like adding a front bumper tow ring or a Lighted Pony. Unpinning, unplugging, removing and remounting this front bumper shroud is a time-suck and can require two people. PDF instructions provided by markboris are attached.
Step 2: remove both OEM horns. They are now visible and easily accessible, one per front corner. One is high tone, the other is low tone.
Step 3: open the four Fiamm packages. In every package, there will be a short straight metal bar with a hole on either end. One hole will mate with the existing OEM horn stalk mount hole (where the OEM horn stalk held its mounting nut) and the other hole will hold the other horn in the pair.
Step 4: mount one of the new Fiamms where the OEM horn was mounted, but add one of the short Fiamm bars to its back. Just like the OEM horn had been positioned, make sure the horn's trumpet is on the outside (toward you) of the curved OEM horn mounting bar, and that the trumpet "forward beak lip" faces to the front and not to the back. Make sure the horn opening points down, to avoid water getting in and blocking the horn. Do not tighten yet.
Step 5: rotate the short Fiamm bar behind the Fiamm horn so it points upward behind the horn and slightly to the rear of the car... like roughly 11 o'clock. Now drill a hole through both bars (the new Fiamm spare bar and the OEM curved horn bar in front of it) large enough for your bolt + Nylock nut. Insert bolt, tighten the Nylock nut. You've just created the mount for the other horn on that corner.
Step 6: hand the corresponding Fiamm horn on the top hole of the 11 o'clock bar, above the other horn but on the inside (away from you) of the bar, and pointing with its "beak lip" rearwards. You'll see there is plenty of inside space above and behind the 1st horn to do this, although on the driver's side the second horn will be close to the top of the windshield washer fluid container. Ensure the upper horn on that side has no contact with this plastic container. Make sure the horn's trumpet opening is also down. Now snug up both horns. NOTE: at this step, I always add blue Loctite to the threads of the horn's threaded stalks to keep everything secure despite the vibrations when the horns are activated.
Step 7: now for the wiring - start on the driver's side. There, the horn plug-&-play wiring connector has remained on the car when you took off the plastic bumper shield. Take all four of the short wires from the four Fiamm packing blisters. Cut all the four round grounding loops off. Add a small-size Posi-Tap to that end (or prepare to tap the wires into the pigtail wires another way of your choosing - I am a fanatic user of PosiTaps and PosiLocks because they save just SO MUCH TIME.
Step 8: add two of the Posi-Tapped wires, one each, to the pug-&-play pigtail wires, one each. Now, the plug-&-play pigtail will have two positive female spade wires and two negative (ground) female spade wires. Plug the pigtail into the Fordnhorn connector, and plug all four female spade ends into all the four male spade connectors on the two horns. Which connector to use doesn't matter as these horns do not have polarity... just make sure the two Posi-Tapped wires go to the higher horn. This will ensure that each horn has one positive and one ground connection.
Step 9: test by blowing the horn. You should hear the two-tone sound from the driver's front corner.
Step 10: remount the plastic turtle shell. Reconnect everything.
Step 11: repeat Steps 7, 8 and 9 on the passenger side.
Enjoy your new horn power!
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