DIY How To: Remove and Replace Suspension with KW V3 Coilovers on Mach-E

INTRODUCTION:

This write-up covers the removal of OEM suspension for replacement with KW V3 coilovers; however the steps within generally apply to the removal and reinstallation of any OEM refreshed or aftermarket suspension assemblies. Because this write-up will be KW specific, steps included for front and rear apply to requirement to prepare KW hardware for installation to the Mach-E.

Attached to this write up are the following helpful resources:

• KW V3 Coilover Installation Manual
• KW V3 Setup and Adjustment Manual
• Relevant sections from the Mach-E Repair Manual

TOOLS NEEDED:

• 3T floor jack plus jack stands, or QuickJack or Lift
• If using jack stands or QuickJack, a floor jack will be needed for rear reassembly
• If using a lift, a pole jack/under hoist will be needed for rear reassembly
• Sockets and wrenches ranging from 15mm to 21mm (don’t need them all, just have available)
• Drill + 13/32 drill bit (10mm or 0.4” hole for rear shock mount)
• Pry bars
• Aluminum or Graphite Anti-seize
• Spring compressor (if disassembling front struts to reuse OEM front top hats)

OPTIONAL PARTS: Purchasing these parts removes the requirement to disassemble and reuse existing front and rear OEM mounts, from your removed suspension components.

• Spare OEM front strut top hat – QTY: 2 [Ford P/N: AD1175 (3A197) MSRP: $28.73]
• Spare OEM rear shock mount – QTY: 2 [Ford P/N: AD1215 (18A161) MSRP: $54.00]

PREREQUISITES:

• Frunk panels removed (upper and sides; frunk tub remains installed)
• Wheels removed
• Vehicle lifted and ready for service
• Front KW struts and rear KW shocks are adjusted and confirmed to KW factory settings, based upon the KW Setup Manual PDF. Use included KW allen key knob for making top rebound adjustments. Lower compression adjustments can be made using fingers only.

REAR REMOVAL AND REASSEMBLY

1. Remove rear felt underbody tray, and both lower control arm air deflectors. Tray: 14 screws, 2 ribbed pins, 3 spread push pins; Deflectors: 3 retainers.
   
   
   
   
   
   REVIEW THIS ZOOMED PHOTO OF ALL BOLTS AND NUTS REFERENCED IN THE FEW STEPS BELOW
   
   
   
   
   
2. Loosen rear lower control arm INNER mounting bolt. DO NOT FULLY REMOVE – JUST LOOSEN. This allows the control arm to swing down once removed from the rear knuckle.
   
   
   
   
3. Loosen and remove bolt held by the anchor nut. You will remove the bolt side until fully unthreaded from anchor nut. (Left bolt/nut in image below)
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
4. This step may be optional, but I will recommend you do it anyway. The lower rear rubber spring perch/isolator that sits between the spring and control arm only sits one-way on the control arm. You’ll see a raised “hill” on the rubber perch that’s aimed towards the rear drive unit. Also look to see if there is a vertical marker line indicating where the lower spring coil ends on the perch. If one doesn’t exist, use a paint marker or silver sharpie to draw a vertical line indicating spring location on the perch. The perch will also have an indentation from the OEM spring pressing into it. You'll use that indentation to reinstall and align the KW coil spring.
   
   
   
   
   
5. Loosen and remove bolt and nut securing rear lower control arm to rear hub knuckle. Use a jack stand or under hoist to hold the rear lower control arm. Once this bolt is removed, the control arm will be free to pivot down, releasing the rear spring assembly. Set spring assembly aside and retain lower rubber perch/isolator for reuse.
   
   
   
   
   
6. Loosen and remove two bolts securing the shock to the chassis. Remove shock assembly and set aside.
   
   
   
   
   
7. NOTE: If you purchased spare OEM hardware, SKIP THIS STEP. Remove black plastic cap exposing rear shock mount bolt. Then remove OEM shock mount from shock and set aside for required modification to fit replacement KW shock.
   NO PHOTO OF THIS STEP
   
   
8. Enlarge mounting hole on rear shock mount, using a 13/32” or 10mm metal drill bit.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
9. Install modified shock mount to KW shock. KW includes a washer and two nuts. Assembly order: KW Shock > Mount > Washer > Nut (tighten) > Nut (tighten). Install black plastic protective cap by tapping it with a rubber mallet until it grabs the shock mount. Torque: 15 lb.ft (20 Nm).
   NO PHOTO OF THIS STEP
   
   
10. Install and fasten KW shock to chassis using upper mount only. Lower will be fastened once the rear lower control arm is reinstalled. Torque: 81 lb.ft (110 Nm).
    
    
    
    
    
11. Gather: KW upper adjustable perch, KW spring, OEM lower rubber perch/isolator. Apply anti-seize to adjustable perch threads, and thoroughly thread in. Set adjustable perch to middle alignment, so an identical number/distance of threads is equal above and below. You will be adjusting height a few times based upon initial vehicle contact to ground and height preference. I recommend middle so you have an idea of available adjustment range after first look.
    NO PHOTO OF THIS STEP
    
    
12. Install rear spring assembly. Slide all three components up into the cavity, ensuring the adjustable perch is sitting flush to the chassis. Ensure the lower rubber perch and coil spring are properly aligned, as identified in Step 4. Installation requires you to pivot the lower control arm up to meet the rear knuckle.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
13. Use a jack stand or under hoist to hold the control arm and apply lifted pressure until the holes line up between the rear lower control arm and the knuckle. Reinstall knuckle bolt and nut. This will require a combination of upward tension on the control arm, while pulling down on the entire hub assembly, to get the holes to line up between these two components. Torque: 92 lb.ft (125 Nm).
    
    
    
    
    
14. Install and fasten the lower shock body mount to the control arm. Torque: 81 lb.ft (110 Nm).
    
    
    
    
    
15. Fasten the previously LOOSENED rear lower control arm INNER mounting bolt. Torque: 129 lb.ft (175 Nm).
    NO PHOTO OF THIS STEP
    
    
16. When both sides are complete, reinstall rear felt protective tray, including two felt covers protecting the rear lower control arms.
    
    

FRONT REMOVAL AND REASSEMBLY

1. Loosen and remove strut tower brace nuts, and brace. Set hardware and brace aside for reinstallation.
   
   
2. Loosen and remove brake line bracket bolt from strut. Set bolt aside for reinstallation
   Loosen and remove UPPER sway bar end link nut. Set aside for reinstallation
3. IMPORTANT NOTE: Knuckle bolts are SPLINE BOLTS. BOLTS WILL NOT SPIN UNTIL APPROXIMATELY 1” REMOVED FROM THE SLOT. Loosen and remove BOTH knuckle bolt NUTS attaching the strut to the knuckle. Once both bolts are removed, the knuckle will fall away from the car, and will be held in place by the brake line. Use a bungee cord, or some stiff wire to relieve tension from brake line. Set hardware aside for reinstallation.
   
   
   
   
   
4. Loosen and remove THREE bolts affixing upper strut mount to body. As you’re removing the last bolt, keep a firm grip on the strut assembly. It will be completely free to fall. Set hardware aside for reinstallation.
   
   
   
   
   
5. NOTE: If you purchased spare OEM hardware, SKIP THIS STEP. Remove upper OEM strut mount from the removed strut assembly. A spring compressor WILL be required for removal. Set upper strut mount aside for use with KW coilover.
   NO PHOTO OF THIS STEP
   
   
6. Install the OEM strut mount to the front KW coilover. Follow the KW installation instructions for proper orientation of KW-provided rubber isolators. Torque: 37 lb.ft (35 Nm).
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
7. Loosen KW coilover height adjustment locking collar retention screw, apply anti-seize to the locking collar thread area and adjust to work in the anti-seize. Set height to approximately halfway on the range, leaving locking collar retention screw LOOSE. You will most likely need to adjust height after a first look with wheels hitting on the ground. Regardless, the retention screw can be tightened with wheels ON.
   NO PHOTO OF THIS STEP
   
   
8. Insert the KW coilover assembly into the suspension cavity and align the strut top mount to the bolt pattern on the chassis. It only fits one way. Install and fasten the upper strut mount to the body. Torque: 22 lb.ft (30 Nm).
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
9. IMPORTANT NOTE AGAIN: Knuckle bolts are SPLINE BOLTS. Install knuckle bolts until the spline channels contact the knuckle spline grooves. Tap in with hammer until fully seated. Install and fasten knuckle bolt nuts. Before fully torquing down, roughly set alignment to captured position, prior to OEM strut assembly removal. Torque: 173 lb.ft (235 Nm).
10. Align brake line bracket to the KW coilover assembly. Install and fasten brake line bracket bolt. Torque: 97 lb.in (11 Nm).
11. Align UPPER sway bar end link to the KW coilover assembly. Install and fasten end link nut. Torque: 81 lb.ft (110 Nm).
    
    
    
    
    
12. When both sides are complete, install and fasten strut tower brace. Torque: 66 lb.ft (90 Nm).

HEIGHT ADJUSTMENTS

Accurately adjusting height requires the vehicle to be sitting on a level surface.

1. Upon completion of FRONT and REAR installation, proceed to reinstall wheels. Full torque isn’t needed, but I’d recommend going to 100 lb.ft (135Nm).
2. Fully lower vehicle so no jack, jack stands, or lift are supporting the vehicle.
3. Vigorously rock the vehicle from side-to-side for about 10 seconds, applying a forceful pushing motion against either side of the roofline where it contacts the pillars. This helps settle the suspension further from being gently lowered.
4. Visually inspection height at front and rear. Using a tape measure, capture distances from fender to ground. Use the same measurement trajectory for each corner (use the wheel center cap as a reference line). Capture measurements to make further adjustments for leveling purposes.
5. When ready to make height adjustments, lift vehicle, remove wheels and address each corner requiring adjustment.
6. Reinstall wheels and lower to perform another inspection. Don’t forget to rock vehicle for 10 seconds.
7. When you are satisfied with ride height and leveled adjustments, use the KW allen key knob to tighten the locking collar retention screw on the front left and front right corners. The rears do NOT use a retention screw.
8. Fully fasten wheels to the vehicle. Torque: 150 lb.ft (204 Nm).

RESOURCES

LINK TO ALL PHOTOS CAPTURED DURING INSTALLATION


EDITS & UPDATES

COMFORT SETTING ADJUSTMENTS (COMPRESSION AND REBOUND)

After putting roughly 1000 miles on the KW suspension, I've altered the 'factory' compression and rebound settings on the shocks. The suspension has fully settled and definitely stiffened. I would not say it's back to a stock feel, but it was still comfortable. I did want something a bit softer, however.


These settings would be most unique to the Premium ER RWD configuration. I'm hoping once more members receive their set and get them installed and settled, their final adjustment numbers combined with their Mach-E configuration can be shared amongst the forum to better track the best settings based upon SR/ER and RWD/AWD. Compression and Rebound adjustments are iterative.

What a great write up! You rock!

mkhuffman said:

What a great write up! You rock!

Click to expand...

Thanks! I was struggling to get photos quick enough. My guys works fast. The rear was done in 45 minutes and the fronts took about 30.

We then spent maybe another 30 dialing in ride height.

All-in time, about 2 hours.

Just goes to show how much shops can mark up these installs!

How does the new suspension feel? Has it resolved the harsh ride without ruining the handling?

pr0t0c0l_dr01d said:

How does the new suspension feel? Has it resolved the harsh ride without ruining the handling?

Click to expand...

Handling is noticeably better over stock. I can definitely push the car harder through turns, however I'm still mentally held back by the skinny tires.

The ride comfort though, outstanding. You're still going to feel the road, but the harsh rebound is drastically eliminated - roughly 80% maybe? I'm thinking once i get a wider wheel and tire on the car, this'll help reduce the harsh ride even more.

connoisseurr said:

INTRODUCTION:

This write-up covers the removal of OEM suspension for replacement with KW V3 coilovers; however the steps within generally apply to the removal and reinstallation of any OEM refreshed or aftermarket suspension assemblies. Because this write-up will be KW specific, steps included for front and rear apply to requirement to prepare KW hardware for installation to the Mach-E.

Attached to this write up are the following helpful resources:

• KW V3 Coilover Installation Manual
• KW V3 Setup and Adjustment Manual
• Relevant sections from the Mach-E Repair Manual

TOOLS NEEDED:

• 3T floor jack plus jack stands, or QuickJack or Lift
• If using jack stands or QuickJack, a floor jack will be needed for rear reassembly
• If using a lift, a pole jack/under hoist will be needed for rear reassembly
• Sockets and wrenches ranging from 15mm to 21mm (don’t need them all, just have available)
• Drill + 13/32 drill bit (10mm or 0.4” hole for rear shock mount)
• Pry bars
• Aluminum or Graphite Anti-seize
• Spring compressor (if disassembling front struts to reuse OEM front top hats)

OPTIONAL PARTS: Purchasing these parts removes the requirement to disassemble and reuse existing front and rear OEM mounts, from your removed suspension components.

• Spare OEM front strut top hat – QTY: 2 [Ford P/N: AD1175 (3A197) MSRP: $28.73]
• Spare OEM rear shock mount – QTY: 2 [Ford P/N: AD1215 (18A161) MSRP: $54.00]

PREREQUISITES:

This guide will start with the following conditions met:​

• Frunk panels removed (upper and sides; frunk tub remains installed)
• Wheels removed
• Vehicle lifted and ready for service
• Front KW struts and rear KW shocks are adjusted and confirmed to KW factory settings, based upon the KW Setup Manual PDF. Use included KW allen key knob for making top rebound adjustments. Lower compression adjustments can be made using fingers only.

REAR REMOVAL AND REASSEMBLY

1. Remove rear felt underbody tray, and both lower control arm air deflectors. Tray: 14 screws, 2 ribbed pins, 3 spread push pins; Deflectors: 3 retainers.
   
   
   
   
   
   REVIEW THIS ZOOMED PHOTO OF ALL BOLTS AND NUTS REFERENCED IN THE FEW STEPS BELOW
   
   
   
   
   
2. Loosen rear lower control arm INNER mounting bolt. DO NOT FULLY REMOVE – JUST LOOSEN. This allows the control arm to swing down once removed from the rear knuckle.
   
   
   
   
3. Loosen and remove bolt held by the anchor nut. You will remove the bolt side until fully unthreaded from anchor nut. (Left bolt/nut in image below)
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
4. This step may be optional, but I will recommend you do it anyway. The lower rear rubber spring perch/isolator that sits between the spring and control arm only sits one-way on the control arm. You’ll see a raised “hill” on the rubber perch that’s aimed towards the rear drive unit. Also look to see if there is a vertical marker line indicating where the lower spring coil ends on the perch. If one doesn’t exist, use a paint marker or silver sharpie to draw a vertical line indicating spring location on the perch. The perch will also have an indentation from the OEM spring pressing into it. You'll use that indentation to reinstall and align the KW coil spring.
   
   
   
   
   
5. Loosen and remove bolt and nut securing rear lower control arm to rear hub knuckle. Use a jack stand or under hoist to hold the rear lower control arm. Once this bolt is removed, the control arm will be free to pivot down, releasing the rear spring assembly. Set spring assembly aside and retain lower rubber perch/isolator for reuse.
   
   
   
   
   
6. Loosen and remove two bolts securing the shock to the chassis. Remove shock assembly and set aside.
   
   
   
   
   
7. NOTE: If you purchased spare OEM hardware, SKIP THIS STEP. Remove black plastic cap exposing rear shock mount bolt. Then remove OEM shock mount from shock and set aside for required modification to fit replacement KW shock.
   NO PHOTO OF THIS STEP
   
   
8. Enlarge mounting hole on rear shock mount, using a 13/32” or 10mm metal drill bit.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
9. Install modified shock mount to KW shock. KW includes a washer and two nuts. Assembly order: KW Shock > Mount > Washer > Nut (tighten) > Nut (tighten). Install black plastic protective cap by tapping it with a rubber mallet until it grabs the shock mount. Torque: 15 lb.ft (20 Nm).
   NO PHOTO OF THIS STEP
   
   
10. Install and fasten KW shock to chassis using upper mount only. Lower will be fastened once the rear lower control arm is reinstalled. Torque: 81 lb.ft (110 Nm).
    
    
    
    
    
11. Gather: KW upper adjustable perch, KW spring, OEM lower rubber perch/isolator. Apply anti-seize to adjustable perch threads, and thoroughly thread in. Set adjustable perch to middle alignment, so an identical number/distance of threads is equal above and below. You will be adjusting height a few times based upon initial vehicle contact to ground and height preference. I recommend middle so you have an idea of available adjustment range after first look.
    NO PHOTO OF THIS STEP
    
    
12. Install rear spring assembly. Slide all three components up into the cavity, ensuring the adjustable perch is sitting flush to the chassis. Ensure the lower rubber perch and coil spring are properly aligned, as identified in Step 4. Installation requires you to pivot the lower control arm up to meet the rear knuckle.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
13. Use a jack stand or under hoist to hold the control arm and apply lifted pressure until the holes line up between the rear lower control arm and the knuckle. Reinstall knuckle bolt and nut. This will require a combination of upward tension on the control arm, while pulling down on the entire hub assembly, to get the holes to line up between these two components. Torque: 92 lb.ft (125 Nm).
    
    
    
    
    
14. Install and fasten the lower shock body mount to the control arm. Torque: 81 lb.ft (110 Nm).
    
    
    
    
    
15. Fasten the previously LOOSENED rear lower control arm INNER mounting bolt. Torque: 129 lb.ft (175 Nm).
    NO PHOTO OF THIS STEP
    
    
16. When both sides are complete, reinstall rear felt protective tray, including two felt covers protecting the rear lower control arms.
    
    

FRONT REMOVAL AND REASSEMBLY

Before you get started, I recommend capturing the rough alignment position of the front end. With the steering centered as straight as possible, use a torpedo level to capture the camber position for the side you are working with. Yes, this is not accurate, and no, this will not be your final alignment adjustment. You WILL need an alignment after a brief settling period. Capture the level’s reading with your eye, camera or whatever you need, then proceed.​

1. Loosen and remove strut tower brace nuts, and brace. Set hardware and brace aside for reinstallation.
   
   
2. Loosen and remove brake line bracket bolt from strut. Set bolt aside for reinstallation
   Loosen and remove UPPER sway bar end link nut. Set aside for reinstallation
3. IMPORTANT NOTE: Knuckle bolts are SPLINE BOLTS. BOLTS WILL NOT SPIN UNTIL APPROXIMATELY 1” REMOVED FROM THE SLOT. Loosen and remove BOTH knuckle bolt NUTS attaching the strut to the knuckle. Once both bolts are removed, the knuckle will fall away from the car, and will be held in place by the brake line. Use a bungee cord, or some stiff wire to relieve tension from brake line. Set hardware aside for reinstallation.
   
   
   
   
   
4. Loosen and remove THREE bolts affixing upper strut mount to body. As you’re removing the last bolt, keep a firm grip on the strut assembly. It will be completely free to fall. Set hardware aside for reinstallation.
   
   
   
   
   
5. NOTE: If you purchased spare OEM hardware, SKIP THIS STEP. Remove upper OEM strut mount from the removed strut assembly. A spring compressor WILL be required for removal. Set upper strut mount aside for use with KW coilover.
   NO PHOTO OF THIS STEP
   
   
6. Install the OEM strut mount to the front KW coilover. Follow the KW installation instructions for proper orientation of KW-provided rubber isolators. Torque: 37 lb.ft (35 Nm).
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
7. Loosen KW coilover height adjustment locking collar retention screw, apply anti-seize to the locking collar thread area and adjust to work in the anti-seize. Set height to approximately halfway on the range, leaving locking collar retention screw LOOSE. You will most likely need to adjust height after a first look with wheels hitting on the ground. Regardless, the retention screw can be tightened with wheels ON.
   NO PHOTO OF THIS STEP
   
   
8. Insert the KW coilover assembly into the suspension cavity and align the strut top mount to the bolt pattern on the chassis. It only fits one way. Install and fasten the upper strut mount to the body. Torque: 22 lb.ft (30 Nm).
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
9. IMPORTANT NOTE AGAIN: Knuckle bolts are SPLINE BOLTS. Install knuckle bolts until the spline channels contact the knuckle spline grooves. Tap in with hammer until fully seated. Install and fasten knuckle bolt nuts. Before fully torquing down, roughly set alignment to captured position, prior to OEM strut assembly removal. Torque: 173 lb.ft (235 Nm).
10. Align brake line bracket to the KW coilover assembly. Install and fasten brake line bracket bolt. Torque: 97 lb.in (11 Nm).
11. Align UPPER sway bar end link to the KW coilover assembly. Install and fasten end link nut. Torque: 81 lb.ft (110 Nm).
    
    
    
    
    
12. When both sides are complete, install and fasten strut tower brace. Torque: 66 lb.ft (90 Nm).

HEIGHT ADJUSTMENTS

Accurately adjusting height requires the vehicle to be sitting on a level surface.

1. Upon completion of FRONT and REAR installation, proceed to reinstall wheels. Full torque isn’t needed, but I’d recommend going to 100 lb.ft (135Nm).
2. Fully lower vehicle so no jack, jack stands, or lift are supporting the vehicle.
3. Vigorously rock the vehicle from side-to-side for about 10 seconds, applying a forceful pushing motion against either side of the roofline where it contacts the pillars. This helps settle the suspension further from being gently lowered.
4. Visually inspection height at front and rear. Using a tape measure, capture distances from fender to ground. Use the same measurement trajectory for each corner (use the wheel center cap as a reference line). Capture measurements to make further adjustments for leveling purposes.
5. When ready to make height adjustments, lift vehicle, remove wheels and address each corner requiring adjustment.
6. Reinstall wheels and lower to perform another inspection. Don’t forget to rock vehicle for 10 seconds.
7. When you are satisfied with ride height and leveled adjustments, use the KW allen key knob to tighten the locking collar retention screw on the front left and front right corners. The rears do NOT use a retention screw.
8. Fully fasten wheels to the vehicle. Torque: 150 lb.ft (204 Nm).

RESOURCES

LINK TO ALL PHOTOS CAPTURED DURING INSTALLATION

Click to expand...

Wow, this is a great writeup! Really appreciate the work put into this.

I am not sure if there are other threads out there about the performance, but if we could get some convos going from other folks that have installed these about how they're doing, that would be great! 3k is salty for some suspension, but if it handles LEAPS and BOUNDS better, I could see myself stashing away some cash for them. Good to hear positive feedback from OP!

LS61303 said:

I am not sure if there are other threads out there about the performance, but if we could get some convos going from other folks that have installed these about how they're doing, that would be great! 3k is salty for some suspension, but if it handles LEAPS and BOUNDS better, I could see myself stashing away some cash for them. Good to hear positive feedback from OP!

Click to expand...

So far, the only other feedback that exists is from @coolshades and @taikajim

connoisseurr said:

All-in time, about 2 hours.

Click to expand...

So it would take me 12. Unless Mark drops by from CA.

This is a spectacular post. Thanks! I have to ask - did your suspension guys toss the old bolts as the workshop manual suggested, or did they reuse them? The consensus elsewhere seems to be it's probably fine to reuse them once, but I am curious what the professionals do. They aren't THAT much additional expense, and maybe there's something to be said for peace of mind.

GrumblesTheDog said:

This is a spectacular post. Thanks! I have to ask - did your suspension guys toss the old bolts as the workshop manual suggested, or did they reuse them? The consensus elsewhere seems to be it's probably fine to reuse them once, but I am curious what the professionals do. They aren't THAT much additional expense, and maybe there's something to be said for peace of mind.

Click to expand...

Zero need to toss bolts for these vehicles with such low mileage, especially when my Mach-E only has 2300 miles on it

I just refreshed my 2009 Subaru Outback's suspension - all new bolts all around.

Can't wait to get my set - the ride is killing me! Thanks for coordinating the group buy. What did it cost you to put on the KWs? I was thinking about buying new rims/tires and putting them on at the same time when I get the coilovers installed but may need to wait because its alot of money.. just ride on factory rims/tires until worn down. I planned on PPF application as higher on my priority list. Do you think I should wait to put PPF on until after KWs go in? It doesn't look like there would be removal of any body panels except the underbody tray that would potentially mess up PPF..

chobald said:

Can't wait to get my set - the ride is killing me! Thanks for coordinating the group buy. What did it cost you to put on the KWs? I was thinking about buying new rims/tires and putting them on at the same time when I get the coilovers installed but may need to wait because its alot of money.. just ride on factory rims/tires until worn down. I planned on PPF application as higher on my priority list. Do you think I should wait to put PPF on until after KWs go in? It doesn't look like there would be removal of any body panels except the underbody tray that would potentially mess up PPF..

Click to expand...

Yeah happy to help the Mach-E fam!

This install would have run me $600, however it was a wash as I did some network upgrades to the entire facility at no cost.

Personally, I'd get the PPF done sooner than later. You never know when a nasty rock chip could come your way.

You are not removing any body panels. The only trim panels being removed are the frunk covers, and the rear under drive unit tray.

If you need a great deal on wheels and tires, ORT can help with that too! I've been trying to get them on here as a supplier. Hopefully after this group buy, they'll do it. They have a lot of products and experience to offer.

LS61303 said:

I am not sure if there are other threads out there about the performance, but if we could get some convos going from other folks that have installed these about how they're doing, that would be great! 3k is salty for some suspension, but if it handles LEAPS and BOUNDS better, I could see myself stashing away some cash for them. Good to hear positive feedback from OP!

Click to expand...

You can go through my previous posts.
I will suggest you try to drive a MachE with KWs if you get the opportunity.

@connoisseurr got to do that I think. My car is the only one in UK with KWs afaik and for me it was a matter of leaping blind. I have explained my rationale too.

I don’t regret my decision.

coolshades said:

You can go through my previous posts.
I will suggest you try to drive a MachE with KWs if you get the opportunity.

@connoisseurr got to do that I think. My car is the only one in UK with KWs afaik and for me it was a matter of leaping blind. I have explained my rationale too.

I don’t regret my decision.

Click to expand...

I only know of one other person who has KWs installed who's not on the forums. I'm sure there are others in the community. ORT asked his KW rep how many kits they've distributed and he was told over 20 that have been delivered. So there are others out there.

I continue to say no regrets as well. In fact, I'm excited to get new wheels and tires on there so I can truly push the car beyond it's current limitations of skimpy ass tires.