jparduhn70

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Thanks for the help, @markboris. I pulled the trigger on the gunmetal solid finish SV103 in a square non-rotatable configuration with the same concavity on all four wheels. I'm going to go with the 255/40R20s all around. Now the six-week wait begins.
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markboris

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Thanks for the help, @markboris. I pulled the trigger on the gunmetal solid finish SV103 in a square non-rotatable configuration with the same concavity on all four wheels. I'm going to go with the 255/40R20s all around. Now the six-week wait begins.
Can't wait to see them on your car. It is usually more like 5 weeks but they say 6 just in case.
 

Markyj

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Thanks for the help, @markboris. I pulled the trigger on the gunmetal solid finish SV103 in a square non-rotatable configuration with the same concavity on all four wheels. I'm going to go with the 255/40R20s all around. Now the six-week wait begins.
Out of curiosity what do you do with your old wheels? im looking for a set of 19“ alloys but based in Scotland or I would have looked to see if we could have struck a deal! Do you sell them elsewhere or keep for winter etc?
 

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I am not up on all of this range stuff as I don't really care what I get but I am thinking driving mainly freeway does not get me as much range as driving around town because when I fully charge the car after driving it mainly around town, I can get a range in the upper 270's on a 100% charge.
You should be able to see the mi/kWh efficiency when you are driving, or the average for the trip. The mi/kWh is similar to mpg, so you can use it to calculate range. If you saw a 2.8 mi/kWh on the highway that would mean a range of 246 miles with a full charge (88 kWh full battery). Of course most people don't run their cars down to 0% charge, but still it is a good benchmark.

Did you notice your mi/kWh while you were driving at 70+ mph? Personally I am most concerned with highway range, since around town it is is easy to charge at home.
 

jparduhn70

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Out of curiosity what do you do with your old wheels? im looking for a set of 19“ alloys but based in Scotland or I would have looked to see if we could have struck a deal! Do you sell them elsewhere or keep for winter etc?
I plan to keep mine for winter wheels for now. The road salt usage is very liberal in Chicago and I want to keep them in good shape. Once I move south in a year or two, I’ll probably sell them. I’m sure you’ll be able to find a set of take-offs in Europe through eBay or another site.
 


121gigawatts

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I've never changed out wheels/tires for a different size.

Someone mentioned the Enkei RPF1's and I absolutely fell in love with them. They are almost 12 lbs lighter per wheel than the originals. Difference is they're 18's vs the premium's 19. I've tried looking for a tire size that would match the 730mm diameter which comes out to either 235/60R18 or 245/55R18.

It's been a bit of a struggle finding a tire that's worth it. I'm not concerned so much with range as I am with getting larger tires because the OEM's feel too skinny. During the test drive alone I had the back wheels slip out a little before the system kicked in and got grip again. I'm in GA, so plenty of rain year round, light snow if any during winter.

Any advice is appreciated.

Also, @markboris the wheel/tire combo looks amazing! From what I remember it's not good for AWD to have different size tires otherwise I might end up down that rabbit whole myself.
 
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markboris

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Out of curiosity what do you do with your old wheels? im looking for a set of 19“ alloys but based in Scotland or I would have looked to see if we could have struck a deal! Do you sell them elsewhere or keep for winter etc?
I know you were not asking me this question but on all my cars that I buy aftermarket wheels for, I keep the OEM wheels/tires stored so when I sell the car, I put them back on.

You should be able to see the mi/kWh efficiency when you are driving, or the average for the trip. The mi/kWh is similar to mpg, so you can use it to calculate range. If you saw a 2.8 mi/kWh on the highway that would mean a range of 246 miles with a full charge (88 kWh full battery). Of course most people don't run their cars down to 0% charge, but still it is a good benchmark.

Did you notice your mi/kWh while you were driving at 70+ mph? Personally I am most concerned with highway range, since around town it is is easy to charge at home.
Hi M, I've never looked at the mi/kWh while driving but this brings up a question that I have been wanting to ask in the battery & charging forum. My mi/kWh always reads 3mi/kWh at the end of every trip after I reset it. I reset trip 1 everytime I fully charge the car and the previous trip shows 3mi/kWh. Trip 2 I have never reset and it shows the total miles I have driving the car which is over 1200 now and it also shows 3mi/kWh. I know when I start a trip, it reads 99mi/kWh but as I drive it goes down but again, never pay attention to it. Any reason why it always is at 3mi/kWh at the end of every trip?
 
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markboris

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Also, @markboris the wheel/tire combo looks amazing! From what I remember it's not good for AWD to have different size tires otherwise I might end up down that rabbit whole myself.
Thanks for the compliment Tony. It came out looking a little better than I expected. You are right and you don't want to have different size tires for an AWD system. I have read that if you do stagger tire sizes, you don't want to go more than 2% difference in the diameter and mine are at 1% so I think I am ok. Looking at Porsche, Audi, Mercedes, Tesla AWD SUV's with their OEM staggered setups, they are at either 1% - 2% differences also.

I originally had 265/45/20's on the front to perfectly match the diameter of the 295/40/20's in the rear but didn't like the way the tire sidewalls looked. They bulged a bit and didn't match the flat sidewall look of the rear tires so went down one size in the front to 255/24/20's and now both sidewalls look equally the same.
 

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I know you were not asking me this question but on all my cars that I buy aftermarket wheels for, I keep the OEM wheels/tires stored so when I sell he car, I put them back on.
Cheers. Was a general question to be honest. Thanks for updating me ??
 
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louibluey

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I finally got around to taking a few photos of my car today. I wanted to wait until I installed the fender mouldings that I had painted Infinite Blue. I originally had Michelin Latitude Sport 3 tires but was not all that happy with them. Steering was a little vague and they were louder than I expected. I was able to get the Pilot Sport 4 SUV tires in the sizes I wanted and I am very happy with them. Much quieter tire and the steering is now crisp. Both tires handle the corners very well.

I had mentioned the wheel and tires sizes in an earlier post but here they are again. Wheels, Signature SV706's 20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear. Tires, Michelin Pilot Sport 4 SUV's 255/45/20 front, 295/40/20 rear.

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For someone looking to copy this mod (Signature SV706's 20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear. Tires, Michelin Pilot Sport 4 SUV's 255/45/20 front, 295/40/20 rear), how important are the changes to alignment discussed earlier in the thread?
 
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markboris

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For someone looking to copy this mod (Signature SV706's 20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear. Tires, Michelin Pilot Sport 4 SUV's 255/45/20 front, 295/40/20 rear), how important are the changes to alignment discussed earlier in the thread?
Hey Joe, I think it is always best to have an alignment check after you replace tires and in this case, we are replacing wheels and tires of completely different sizes. When they put it up on the alignment rack, he noticed the toe was out of spec because of my changes and easily adjusted them back. No other changes were made. Total price was $89 so no big deal.

That being said, I like to have a bit of negative camber on all my cars as I drive on mountainous roads all the time (even just back and forth from home to the grocery store). Plus I like the way the car handles with some negative camber. On the GT500 and Focus RS I have -2 in front and -1.5 in the rear. The Mach-E had about -1.2 front and -1.5 rear. I am fine with the rear but I would like to have a bit more camber in front, at least -1.5 to match the rear. It is not adjustable without aftermarket adjustable camber plates. To eek out a bit more negative camber up front, I pulled the struts off and drilled out the 3 mounting holes to 1/2" holes so I could push the top back a bit. I am going to bring it in next week to have the alignment rechecked to see if I gained anymore negative camber up front and make sure all other specs are still good.
 

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I took a few photos today on my driveway just before it started to rain. The sun tends to wash out the color on both of these cars so I grabbed some shots when it's cloudy.

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This is gorgeous! By far my favorite I've seen with aftermarket wheels so far. May I ask and sorry if it's been said (I couldn't find it) How far off is your Speedometer compared to gps speed going 70+mph? I imagine it must be a little off given the new diameters are slightly larger than stock
 

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This is gorgeous! By far my favorite I've seen with aftermarket wheels so far. May I ask and sorry if it's been said (I couldn't find it) How far off is your Speedometer compared to gps speed going 70+mph? I imagine it must be a little off given the new diameters are slightly larger than stock
This is a question I have had too - if you change the wheels and tires on your vehicle, how do you re-calibrate/adjust the speedometer so it is accurate again?
 

jbotelho15

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This is a question I have had too - if you change the wheels and tires on your vehicle, how do you re-calibrate/adjust the speedometer so it is accurate again?
If it's the same overall diameter no problem. If you change overall diameter it will change. Prior to the Mach E i had a Grand Cherokee that I put 22" wheels and larger tires overall significantly larger diameter and it was off by 4 mph or so I purchased a tuner on Amazon (which wasn't cheap) that was made for Jeep vehicles and you could specifically adjust tire size which I did and it was spot on. There are some for Ford Trucks but not sure if it'll work on the Mach E and one thing i noticed is when I first got it the speedometer was off nearly 2mph but now it's spot on i think a software update recalibrated it which is great except if i an able to tune the speedo that means every time Ford has an OTA Update I'll have to redo it which could get annoying. In the Mach-E's case i imagine if the speedo is off then the range will also be inaccurate granted it is just an estimate anyway.
 

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Speedometer affecting range calculations is very important on this vehicle.

Speedometer affecting legal considerations and speeding tickets is very important for my vehicles.

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