Which home charger?

[Guppydriver]

It expired. There is zero chance it will be extended, because there are bigger things they're trying to push, including new incentives. IMO...

Thanks Rick...

Fingers crossed that maybe something else is available for me by the time my MME gets delivered presumably late in the year. Of course, with political rancor and gridlock the way it is, I'm less than hopeful.

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[Guppydriver]

Good you checked. So many don't, and leave money on the table.

There are many chargers on the market. The first thing you need to decide is IF you need one. Since you get no rebate, and the 30% installation and charger purchase tax credit has expired, price may be a deciding factor for you.

Many just use the Ford included charger. Specs for its wiring on on page 2 of the attached document. I'd recommend not buying the Ford Connected Charge Station as it costs more, and has poor support, as shown in several threads here.

If you're going to buy one, then the question is whether you want a plug-in model, which limits you to a max of 40amps, or a wired model, which allows you to go to 48amps. Won't be any significant difference in wiring costs, nor purchase costs, to go to 48amps. With a charger like the JuiceBox 48, you can lower the amps if you want to charge slower. I have mine set on 32amps, and can up it in less than 30 seconds.

A charger with intelligence allows you to set hours of charging, monitor sessions, look at total power usage, etc. I've charged for 17 1/2 hours so far in January, using 123.614kWh of power. Since I pay 12.5 cents per kWh, I know I've spent $15.45 charging my car.

ChargePoint HomeFlex and JuiceBox chargers may give you capabilities that you want. For example, if I get a 2nd EV, and buy another JuiceBox 48, they can use the same circuit and share power. Both can charge at once, or if one is done charging the other one will kick into full power charging mode. Another feature is setting the hours you want to charge in the charger, so that the car can't charge outside those hours even if it wanted to. You may find that you can charge in off-peak hours and get a new rate plan that provides a sizeable discount.

Also, make sure your charger is UL listed & Energy Star certified.

This Fall, my utility company had a program with Ford where they paid $100 to let them and Ford control your charging hours. Basically, if they had surplus power, they forced a charging session, even if you were in your peak rate hours. If they were tight on power, they forced a no charge session. Because my JuiceBox 48 had locked in hours, they couldn't do the forced charging on my vehicles at all, so I didn't get nailed on that. And, I got $100 for the Mach-E, and $100 for the Fusion Energi (which we sold).

Hope that helps.

Thanks for this post @RickMachE

Although I am sure I will go down many charging rabbit hole threads in the next 6 months, this does dispel a few of the preconceptions I had initially. Specifically, I had thought that a professional hard wire install was substantially more expensive than just installing a 240V box. I am not going anywhere anytime soon, so maybe I'll look more closely at the hard wire option. Of course, if you just end up throttling down the charge rate anyway, then you negate the only real advantage (other than aesthetics) the hard wire option provides, no?

One other question regarding the smart features of third party options. Aren't most of the intelligence charging features you mention available as part of the Ford App? Could I get the features with a 3rd party "dumb" charger by using the Ford app whilst saving on the hardware?

TIA

 

[RickMachE]

Thanks for this post @RickMachE

Although I am sure I will go down many charging rabbit hole threads in the next 6 months, this does dispel a few of the preconceptions I had initially. Specifically, I had thought that a professional hard wire install was substantially more expensive than just installing a 240V box. I am not going anywhere anytime soon, so maybe I'll look more closely at the hard wire option. Of course, if you just end up throttling down the charge rate anyway, then you negate the only real advantage (other than aesthetics) the hard wire option provides, no?

One other question regarding the smart features of third party options. Aren't most of the intelligence charging features you mention available as part of the Ford App? Could I get the features with a 3rd party "dumb" charger by using the Ford app whilst saving on the hardware?

TIA

The cost difference in plug vs. hardwire comes into play in breaker size, and in wire gauge. The plug itself has a small cost.

The hardwired 48amp charger is the highest output home charger you can buy today. I ramp it down (mine is set on 32amps) because I have no reason to charge at 48amps most of the time. However, what if I came home, and was going out in 2 hours, and had inadequate range? Do I want to use the Ford plug in charger at 32 amps, or get 50% more output at 48amps? Depends how far I'm driving...

You want to see if your utility company provides rebates, and if so what makes/models. Then you look at the price difference between different ones.

For example, the JuiceBox 32 is $619 for plug in. The 40 is $649. For $30 more you get 25% more capacity. The 48 is $689. So for another $40 you get 20% MORE capacity (and have to be hardwired).

When I bought, I got $500 back from my utility company. Then I had the 30% tax credit, so the additional 16 amps (going from 32 to 48) cost me almost nothing (it was also $50 lower).

As to relying on FordPass... It seems to have issues on a regular basis. Some posted they got no response late last week. Sometimes it won't refresh. Sometimes the car chargers and it shouldn't. It's reporting is crap. I can tell you exactly how much juice I used, per session, from the day my charger was installed...

And if you have the mobile charger plugged in, it's not in your car if needed.

 

[Maquis]

NEC requires a minimum of 30 amps for dryers (no 10-25), and typical size for dryer circuit is 30-50 AMP. Perhaps some time in the distant past dryer circuits could be smaller.

That said, if there is only a 30 amp circuit it will be a problem, but if it's a 50 amp he should be good to use it.

Every residential electric dry runs on a 30A circuit. Only commercial units are more.

 

[delacruz.c5d]

The cost difference in plug vs. hardwire comes into play in breaker size, and in wire gauge. The plug itself has a small cost.

The hardwired 48amp charger is the highest output home charger you can buy today. I ramp it down (mine is set on 32amps) because I have no reason to charge at 48amps most of the time. However, what if I came home, and was going out in 2 hours, and had inadequate range? Do I want to use the Ford plug in charger at 32 amps, or get 50% more output at 48amps? Depends how far I'm driving...

You want to see if your utility company provides rebates, and if so what makes/models. Then you look at the price difference between different ones.

For example, the JuiceBox 32 is $619 for plug in. The 40 is $649. For $30 more you get 25% more capacity. The 48 is $689. So for another $40 you get 20% MORE capacity (and have to be hardwired).

When I bought, I got $500 back from my utility company. Then I had the 30% tax credit, so the additional 16 amps (going from 32 to 48) cost me almost nothing (it was also $50 lower).

As to relying on FordPass... It seems to have issues on a regular basis. Some posted they got no response late last week. Sometimes it won't refresh. Sometimes the car chargers and it shouldn't. It's reporting is crap. I can tell you exactly how much juice I used, per session, from the day my charger was installed...

And if you have the mobile charger plugged in, it's not in your car if needed.

I agree with all of the above. For me it boiled down to a couple of things:
1) I already had made the decision to purchase a permanently installed EVSE for the home, and leave the mobile EVSE in the car.
2) I didn't have a usable circuit in the garage where I park my Mach E.

Knowing all of that, then it just became a discussion/decision of:
a) How large of a circuit can my electrical panel handle to charge my car? I had to consider that I only have 100 amp service to my house. My largest electrical draws are the AC (40 amp circuit), and clothes dryer (30 amp circuit). As I might have stated earlier, I had an unused circuit for an electric range (40 amps), that we don't use (gas range), so I had a 2 x 120V breaker slot available. As long as I don't use the dryer and the EVSE at the same time, then I should be more than safe for amp draw. Even then, I could "probably" run all three at the same time in the summer, but I just don't want to risk it. I set my charge times to 12A-8A, and if I need to dry clothes after midnight...it's gotta be a bad day/night.
b) Since it was required to run new cabling and install a new box, upgrading the two pole breaker to 60 amps, and hardwiring the EVSE was a drop in the bucket for the total EC cost (probably something like $50-75 total...maybe).

Knowing all of that, I ended up with the 240V/60A hardwired install of my EVSE. That gives me an effective charging power of ~11.25kW (240V/48A), considering the 20% safety overage (60Amps * 80% = 48Amps).

Obviously, everyone's situation is different. You may already have a 14-50 receptacle in your garage for various reasons. Maybe you are just fine with using the provided Ford Mobile EVSE @ 32Amps or ~7.6kW. These are choices everyone has to make for their situ. I had my specific factors that lead me to the high power "send it!" setting of 240V/60A circuit with a 240V/48A EVSE.

 

[MotownMachdoc]

Hey everyone,

So I'm the market for a home charger and wanted to see what people around here are getting. I'm looking at the Grizzl-E, Chargepoint, or Juicebox. I seem to go back and forth between a smart charger and a "dumb" charger. Any thoughts?

Hey everyone,

So I'm the market for a home charger and wanted to see what people around here are getting. I'm looking at the Grizzl-E, Chargepoint, or Juicebox. I seem to go back and forth between a smart charger and a "dumb" charger. Any thoughts?

If you want faster charging, the 14-50 240v outlet with a 50 amp line is where to start. The Ford provided charger can work with that As well as a standard 120 volt circuit. The next question is if you want that on its own meter. Utilities give a better rate with that and may avoid a circuit panel (more expensive) upgrade. Moving the supplied charger in and out of the vehicle will get old fast. I have been very satisfied with a Juicebox over the past 6 months plugged into a 14-50 outlet.

 

[Triggerhappy007]

I bought an Emporia 48A for $440 - 30% tax credit at the end of last year. Now, it's $400 without tax credit. It doesn't have UL certification yet and they are in the process of getting it. If you don't need it installed now, wait for UL certification. The good thing about is that it's cheap and sold by an American company. I have it hardwired to a 60A breaker. It's a little hard to install because you have to use an Allen wrench to remove 8-12 screws to take the cover off. Also the drywall anchors that come with it suck, buy your own anchors. The cable and handle seems high quality so it should last a long time. I like that it has an app so I can schedule TOU times and monitor my charging rate. You use the app to change the charging current if you'd like. I don't have my Mach-E yet, so I've set it to 32A. My Leaf Plus charges at 6.4 kW and Pacifica Hybrid charges at 6.8 kW.

Link to company: https://www.emporiaenergy.com/about-emporia

 

[chrisGT]

I bought an Emporia 48A for $440 - 30% tax credit at the end of last year. Now, it's $400 without tax credit. It doesn't have UL certification yet and they are in the process of getting it. If you don't need it installed now, wait for UL certification. The good thing about is that it's cheap and sold by an American company. I have it hardwired to a 60A breaker. It's a little hard to install because you have to use an Allen wrench to remove 8-12 screws to take the cover off. Also the drywall anchors that come with it suck, buy your own anchors. The cable and handle seems high quality so it should last a long time. I like that it has an app so I can schedule TOU times and monitor my charging rate. You use the app to change the charging current if you'd like. I don't have my Mach-E yet, so I've set it to 32A. My Leaf Plus charges at 6.4 kW and Pacifica Hybrid charges at 6.8 kW.

Link to company: https://www.emporiaenergy.com/about-emporia

I am interested in the Emporia charger but I was reading some reviews that it requires wifi connection. Is that true? What features are controlled by wifi? Can you start charging if wifi is down?
Can your phone/app connect with Bluetooth to the charger to change the settings if wifi is not available?

 

[Triggerhappy007]

I am interested in the Emporia charger but I was reading some reviews that it requires wifi connection. Is that true? What features are controlled by wifi? Can you start charging if wifi is down?
Can your phone/app connect with Bluetooth to the charger to change the settings if wifi is not available?

By default, it's set to 10A at the factory. You download the App to your phone and I think it uses Bluetooth to set up WiFi. Once you connect it to your network, you have the ability to increase the Amp up what you want. You can use the app to monitor the charging rate, start or stop the charge, set up timers, look at the charge history.

I haven't had any experience with WiFi being down. I guess I could test it tomorrow. I'll upload pics from the App tomorrow too. I don't think you can use Bluetooth to change the settings, only WiFi.

 

[Triggerhappy007]

Ok, so I turned off my router to test if it works without WiFi and it functions normally. I have it set to not charge between 5:55-8:05. I plugged in my car at 8:03 and it waited until 8:05 and started charging. So even if it's not connected to WiFi, it'll function like a dumb EVSE. The caveat is you have to pair it with the App at first or it'll just charge at the default 10A. After you set it up, it will remember that setting even if you lose WiFi.

 

[chrisGT]

Ok, so I turned off my router to test if it works without WiFi and it functions normally. I have it set to not charge between 5:55-8:05. I plugged in my car at 8:03 and it waited until 8:05 and started charging. So even if it's not connected to WiFi, it'll function like a dumb EVSE. The caveat is you have to pair it with the App at first or it'll just charge at the default 10A. After you set it up, it will remember that setting even if you lose WiFi.

Thank you so much for the detailed response. It seems like a solid choice for those who have wifi coverage where they park.

 

[BilLongua]

I bought the Wallbox 40. It’s great. Looks good (for those that care), has smart features, wifi, Bluetooth, great app, weatherproof, can throttle power with the app from 6A to 40A, great reviews, 3 year warranty. I’m very happy with it. One great feature is that you can have 2 units on one circuit and they will intelligently throttle the power to charge both cars. Great if you can’t add a separate 50-Amp circuit. They also have a 48 Amp version, but I stuck with the 40 & keep it set to 32A

 

[Maquis]

I bought the Wallbox 40. It’s great. Looks good (for those that care), has smart features, wifi, Bluetooth, great app, weatherproof, can throttle power with the app from 6A to 40A, great reviews, 3 year warranty. I’m very happy with it. One great feature is that you can have 2 units on one circuit and they will intelligently throttle the power to charge both cars. Great if you can’t add a separate 50-Amp circuit. They also have a 48 Amp version, but I stuck with the 40 & keep it set to 32A

Well, it does look pretty good compared to those seams on your pegboard. ?

 

[BilLongua]

Well, it does look pretty good compared to those seams on your pegboard. ?

Easy now!

 

[Maquis]

Easy now!

All in jest, my friend!

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