Ford Power-up 4.2.6

[generaltso]

That app asked me only what the circuit was. I answered the fact it was 50 amps. So does that mean they think 50 amps is safe and sets it there?

It sets it to 80%.

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[mkhuffman]

That app asked me only what the circuit was. I answered the fact it was 50 amps. So does that mean they think 50 amps is safe and sets it there?

40 Amps is considered "safe" on a 50 Amp circuit, so I expect that is the current setting for your EVSE.

 

[737flyer]

That app asked me only what the circuit was. I answered the fact it was 50 amps. So does that mean they think 50 amps is safe and sets it there?

I initially set mine with the 50amp circuit breaker. This will pull about 40amps. My cable and circuit beaker got warm at this setting. So I changed it to the 40 amp circuit breaker, which now pulls about 32amps. The charger cable and circuit breaker are a lot cooler. I think it’s better for the equipment life of the charger.

 

[kennethjk]

I initially set mine with the 50amp circuit breaker. This will pull about 40amps. My cable and circuit beaker got warm at this setting. So I changed it to the 40 amp circuit breaker, which now pulls about 32amps. The charger cable and circuit breaker are a lot cooler. I think it’s better for the equipment life of the charger.

What EVSE do you have?

 

[737flyer]

What EVSE do you have?

Chargepoint

 

[DJJeffT]

Download the ChargePoint Service Pro app. That will let you change the amperage without having to set it up again.

Did that - although connecting is a pain - I was able to set it to 40 amps - I have a 60 Amp circuit - and it charged at 6kw vs the 10kw it had been rolling at.

When I call ford tomorrow, what should I tell them to help escalate things so they do not have to troubleshoot.

 

[generaltso]

Did that - although connecting is a pain - I was able to set it to 40 amps - I have a 60 Amp circuit - and it charged at 6kw vs the 10kw it had been rolling at.

When I call ford tomorrow, what should I tell them to help escalate things so they do not have to troubleshoot.

If you have trouble connecting with the Service Pro app, the ChargePoint may have put its Bluetooth radio to sleep. Rebooting it should wake it up.

Tell Ford that it's erroring out with a a red ring when you try to charge at faster rates. If it does it every time, your dealer should be able to reproduce the problem.

 

[tobin1920]

I got 4.2.6 a couple of days ago and agree the braking is much smoother than before, I'm really happy with the new curve.

After a drive earlier, I put it in park with the windows down for the first time since getting 4.2.6, and noticed that the parking break seems to engage to some extent immediately when putting it in normal park. It doesn't show the red BRAKE icon in this mode. Pulling the parking break button up now results in a smaller final short *click*, and the red BRAKE lights up. I like the change - assuming I'm not imaging things, and it wasn't always this way - but this makes sure there is no roll whatsoever when putting it in normal park. Going from P to D disengages the lite park brake immediately.

 

[MachEnthusiast]

Roger that...I guess it just hasn't gone wide yet. I've had at least two instances where I checked FDRS...saw updates, went to the car (or the truck) spammed the check updates button a couple of times and they showed up as OTAs. On the other hand, I just saw in FDRS this morning the Lightning versions of the latest powertrain releases, and tried spamming the check updates button and got nothing. So I got the gear out and have just finished doing those with FDRS. So it must be an issue of whenever your VIN gets the nod. I'm enrolled in EA for both my vehicles but am in no particular 'program', just enrolled. So I don't know how much weight the EA thing carries, if any.

There’s a button to force check for an OTA? When did that add that?

 

[MachEnthusiast]

Yeah, I would have set it to recharge at 60%. I'm really not sure why Ford decided to be so conservative with it, seems like they were excessively worried about Tesla "phantom drain" AKA draining the HV battery trying to keep the 12V charged, but in reality that would take many months because the big battery is huge. You could recharge the 12V battery up to 400x off the HV battery before it's dead. Either way, that unnecessary conservatism has created a lot of issues with OTAs not working.

I also think they should add a "12V precharge" to the OTA sequence when the 12V battery is too low. So if you have it set for 1AM and your 12V battery is at 60%, then it would wake up and charge the battery for 30 minutes (or however long it takes) before applying the OTA. Rather than failing.

Everything you said here makes so much sense. Ford please do something like this! Mach Lee and I have used my vehicle to test some worst cases with the LVB and mine was one of the ones that would maintain a low soc and take over 3 hours sitting in my driveway left on to get an OTA. Normal users that don’t use forums aren’t going to know to do this.

 

[Mike G]

There’s a button to force check for an OTA? When did that add that?

 

[MachEnthusiast]

I must be blind. I don’t see where you can force to check to see if there is an OTA available. This is just the screen where you can see if you have already downloaded one that is queued for install. There isn’t a way to check for OTAs you haven’t downloaded already.

 

[KevinS]

If you touch the grayed out button, it will report info to you.

 

[Mike G]

I must be blind. I don’t see where you can force to check to see if there is an OTA available. This is just the screen where you can see if you have already downloaded one that is queued for install. There isn’t a way to check for OTAs you haven’t downloaded already.

So what I do, and this has worked at least once for me, I wait till Sync is up and running after first turning the vehicle on, and then go to the software updates button. If it shows there isn't anything I then select the connectivity button right above that....pause and then select the check updates button again to make it re-check. As I said this has worked at least once for me.

 

[Shayne]

Everything you said here makes so much sense. Ford please do something like this! Mach Lee and I have used my vehicle to test some worst cases with the LVB and mine was one of the ones that would maintain a low soc and take over 3 hours sitting in my driveway left on to get an OTA. Normal users that don’t use forums aren’t going to know to do this.

12V battery management has been a problem here since day one and it is obvious it can still be tweaked. All about closing those contacts and making it happen. Auto not by user. For me the note that the 12V could be a precondition not met is a bit embarrassing. Note that to their engineers not the owners.

So what I do, and this has worked at least once for me, I wait till Sync is up and running after first turning the vehicle on, and then go to the software updates button. If it shows there isn't anything I then select the connectivity button right above that....pause and then select the check updates button again to make it re-check. As I said this has worked at least once for me.

Have not got that one to work yet. Thinking I have no need being EA on this one. 4.2's were OK here the rear kick open and closed is a lot better (solid) along with the door buttons. Car is improving. You know it could happen question is will it?

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