Maybe HDMI is unsuitable for automotive environments, no idea. I have not try messing around more with it, but I couldn't see the DC offset at all. Wondering if resetting the IPMA through ForScan is the way to reset the errors or if the Ford software has to be used instead.
This might already go offtopic a bit, but more into the technical stuff. I've managed to source the connectors and cable, made myself a fitting cable but with hand-twisted connections. This did not work as GMSL2 (which I assume is the protocol) with PoC works at over 2GHz, not something you can...
The module takes 10 minutes to swap, not sure how much they cost on the second-hand market.
The wiring costs 30$ for the long cable, less for the shorter one. The short one takes ~2h to change. The longer one could take one day, depending on car options.
If they are even mildly competent, they...
There doesn't seem to be much interest, but relaying my findings anyway, would probably help someone looking for this info in the future:
To know whether you need the -V or -W variant for the A-pillar to IPMA, it's enough to look at the IPMA end. If the brown quad jack has two coax cables, then...
Finally had some time to investigate a bit deeper and also install the comma/konik system. From my understanding, the windshield camera goes to the brown connector at the IPMA. Mine has only positions 1 and 3 filled, with 3 I assume being the camera at fault.
The picture is from the F150...
Mine wasn't rattling but one of the subwoofer grille screws needed tightening. It was making an awful squeak at certain frequencies and louder when accelerating or climbing. I think it really needs a rubber washer or something similar.
Just as an update, not sure if this should be moved to a separate topic: there is ground continuity to the new coax, so it's probably installed correctly. The center pin voltage does not go above 100mV so it's either a center conductor break or an IPMA issue.
I could jerry-rig a 12V(?) DC signal...
So came back from the shop with not so great news. The cable has been replaced but the errors persist. They asked if I want to continue pursing this, and, offered other possible failure points. I took the car home and will try to find the problem on my own. Usually they would probably just throw...
I talked to my local dealership and they charged me about 32$ for the cable and about 60$ for the work. Since I was also going for the scheduled service there, I went with the offer. However, two weeks after ordering it, the part was still not with them, it took about 3 weeks.
Does anyone know...
The German Wikipedia page shows peak power as well as "long-term" power, but both sources for that info seem down or unusuable https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Mustang_Mach-E#Technische_Daten:~:text=Dauerleistung
On my 1st gen PE, there is definitely less power when accelerating in the...
Maybe I should start a new topic for this, but, I couldn't find any supplier for the part (lj8z-14d202-u) in Europe. How was the procedure for anyone here to replace it, go directly to dealer? Was abroad for a while and couldn't contact the local service/dealer to see the details but I expect...
Sorry for resurrecting this but I'm stumped by some behavior and it might be related. I turned the seatbelt warnings off so not a problem when starting the car. However, randomly, when I stop the car I get "please check rear seats" for passengers or something. No passenger sat there and I did...
Thank you! I don't think my windshield was ever replaced but the car was bought used. Weird that your cable seems to go to the left but mine seems to go to the right A-pillar. I have the premium model with the glass sunroof, could that be the difference? Also don't have those buttons there...
My car has been getting errors more frequently over the summer, especially when left in the sun. It did recover after it cooled down a bit. Since one month the error is persistent and all frontal assistance is gone (adaptive cruise control, emergency braking, lane keep assist, ...).
I took the...