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because "L" or Low Range isn't meant as a normal braking mechanism. It's to simulate the Low Range mode on an ICE vehicle to use gearing down and engine braking. The brake lights don't activate on an ICE vehicle either.

I don't want to sound offensive, but I don't think this would be a task you should try yourself if you're not prepared to do the programming part. You're going to run into difficulties later.

To answer the question at hand, the app is just an instruction guide/video walkthrough on how to hit the master reset button on Sync. lol If you really want privacy, pull the fuse for the TCU. Then you'll find out how quickly BlueCruise, up to date maps, remote start, remote charge status...

Forscan can write the odometer only if you're going to a higher mileage than is already recorded on the "new" cluster. Example, the cluster you bought has 13456.7 miles on it, and your car has 23456.7 miles on it. You can write it forward. You can't lower it by design. The dealer can't even help...

Cause it removed 3 lines of code and made the app run "faster". 😂

Did you check on the "Vehicle" page? They took it off the "Home" page after the last update (4.27).

I checked a saved APIM as-built from when i first got the car. Compared it to what's in there currently and I don't see anything different that would point to the charge port lights option. It's like they just removed it from the software.

I've left my phone on the workbench closest to the driver door with the door open. It'll let the car start and go into gear before I close the door.

If you wanted to be to code, you could legally use a NEMA 6-50R which is a 3 prong (two hots and a ground) and then use a 6-50 to 14-50 adapter for your portable EVSE. You're just adding another component into the mix, though. Just make sure you have a quality receptacle and adapter. 🤷‍♂️

IS the wiring for this location completed already? If not, why not just have a neutral added for "future"?

Yup, and you can return it with something like 75% remaining as well. I think they only charge you if it's below 20%.

Every time I go to Phoenix I rent a Tesla, really just to torture myself. lol But honestly, depending on where you're staying there's a lot of SuperChargers, so it's not bad even for a first time user. Hertz sends out a lot of emails with how-to's and whatnot.

It just says ChgORT. No PID ID. Everything seems to line up as it should. It’s not DC charging so that’s just default no data values. (65535). Everything else is correct.

That was with Car Scanner app, Mach E profile on one of the pre-made dashboards.

Mine is 161 and been doing fine. Ambient garage temps are about 75°. Have you saw if there’s any change with the charger output reduction % when It’s throttling back?

Which wire? The cable from the EVSE to the car? I hope you're not talking about the wire from the EVSE to the panel. I'm running hardwired 48 amps on 6awg THHN and it doesn't even get warm. The EVSE cable to the car, does for sure though.

The NEMA 6-20 pictured is a 240v 20A outlet (if wired correctly). Like posted above, it will trip the breaker using that conversion cable. If you get a Tesla portable EVSE with the appropriate NEMA connector and a tesla tap, you could use that. It'll tell the vehicle to only pull 16A on that...

The RGTM is inside the rear hatch. It's what takes inputs from the button(s) and the BCM and actuates the lift motors, as well as monitor the pinch sensors. Any Mach E with power lift gate will have one. The Kick sensor is the 14B291 and 14F680 in that diagram. From what I've read around here...

I wish I could get the entire floor as rubber like the fleet work trucks. So much easier to clean up dog hair. 😂

Use it to pop open the frunk jump cover? 😂