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Nothing sexier than socks on a duck (For some folks.)

Check for an unusual draw. Then if no draw is found, replace the battery.

Which begs the question……Would you carry a key if you had not needed it for a year or 3? Hide a key would be an answer. Meaning that anyone could get into your car with a little judicious snooping.

Where do you live? Has it been cold lately? Is your garage heated? The symptoms fit a scenario where you are leaving nice warm environment and driving into the Arctic. Which (As many many threads will show) is quite a common theme. Cold weather range reduction.

You put me to mind of the guy from Minnesota that, after chastising a room full of folks about how he could drive his FWD mini van anywhere a 4x4 could go, got stuck getting the mail at the gang boxes. I pulled him out with my ancient 4Runner.

Neither you nor I know what the car’s charging strategy is. And a volt meter only gives voltage not state of charge. That said, it will work without charging the battery separately. It just isn’t as effective.

How will you know the state of charge if you don’t use a separate battery charger?

I replaced a Subaru Outback with the MME. the Outback was the best snow/ice car I ever had. The MME is on similar Michelin tires (Though the Outback’s weren’t EV). The MME is at least as good. I am impressed.

Nope. Batteries off the shelf used to be charged to maybe 80%. The last couple (Not for the MME, but batteries aren’t produced differently for specific vehicles) were more like 60-70%, and took a minimum of 12 hours to charge to 100%. It is good practice to always fully charge any new lead...

It works. The science seems questionable but empirically bouncing the signal off the roof of your mouth extends the range of fobs. I am sure there are YouTubes demonstrating the effect.

Yup. My old 4Runner loses range every 4-5 years until I bite the bullet and change the battery.

More use is probably better for the battery than less. It doesn’t charge as often when not in use.

Stores like O’Reilly’s will give you $10-15 for a core independent of buying the battery from them. 6 years ago I was given a trailer that was full of junk including 5 core batteries. 50 bucks is 50 bucks.

The battery and motor(s) are coolant cooled/heated. You should probably check coolant levels. Gurgling could be air in the system.

Just going dead shortens a battery’s lifespan. If it spends 24 hours “Dead” it is likely not going to last more than a few days. I suspect that batteries in EVs fail early because they spend a considerable fraction of their lifespan only charged to 50%. Batteries in ICE vehicles are generally...

AKA the Microsoft solution.

That is cheating. Shelby’s concoction had zip to do with actual transportation. The ride was the point.

As the OP, I agree with your post but will take it a small step further. When I started this thread it was because I had seen the instructions for doing just what I needed but I will be damned if I could find the appropriate post. Given the title of the thread, the next person in my spot will...

You can test a battery several different ways and it could pass them all, yet fail utterly tomorrow.

Apparently I was too spare in my use of words. Because I tried 3-4 questions on that very page without results. Or it is possible I just wasn’t hooked to their servers.