You are talking about beneath the C-pillar right? If so-
Take floor out of car
Take off the plastic piece on the bumper side that the floor rests on. There should be 2 visible bolts with the floor out and then 2 bolts that are under the cargo hooks - use a plastic pry tool to pop the cargo hook...
For sure! I've been toying with the idea of filling the rears with 6.5" subwoofers (maybe some of the Daytons IDK), but I think I'm going to go with a front sub. Getting the front doors to produce 80-100hz is almost fruitless due to their location and associated cancellations unfortunately...
Thanks! Sorry I didn't have a chance to answer yesterday, but in short I wouldn't say the rears are 'worse' just different. Actually think the fronts are standard magnets while the rear are neos, which leads to the 'less beefy' comment. IDK how to verify this though.
RE replacing the rears -...
Thanks! You should have about 8"-8.5" max to the bottom of the floor. Depends exactly where the sub will fit. These measurements are roughly what it looks like.
Most amps are rated are 14.4v because it gives a larger number and the industry as a whole is kinda scummy that way...unfortunately. Most ICE cars will be 12.4-14.4 depending on charge state. My Mach-e has no problem hitting RMS numbers and above. I would not expect to hit Youtube *wow this amp...
You are welcome! I'm running close to 2000W RMS of equipment with no issues so far, though I kinda expect to need to replace the 12v sooner rather than later haha. Once it warms up I'm installing a voltage monitor just to be safe.
I based the 'safe' voltage off a handful of threads in this...
These measurements were a draft, not quite perfect but should get you close enough. The first measurement is the floor in upper position, the left 2.5" is where the floor sits nearest the back seats. Second measurements of the bottom showing dip and raise with hash marks. Final measurements are...
Android Auto gets the battery status and shares it with Google Maps. I now get estimations for battery charge when I select destinations. Believe it has some route planning functions built in, but I don't do a ton of trips that involve charging so don't have experience with this.
Wow good catch! I got mine in yesterday and was queuing up this model this morning without even opening the box XD. I went ahead and put together something simple.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1019802
I was originally going to build in more support for the adapter but after printing out a...
awww I missed it but I already put my order in. I didn't realize you had just the lights for 349 so I did the deal with the alcantra.
PS. Happy Chinese New Year!
@tsdahc I managed to fit a Kicker TRTP12 which is 6-1/8" tall while looking factory. With the rubber mat it was <1" above the bottom of the lift gate, but without it no one would be able to tell. I did lift the floor a bit at the front with a 2x4, but that was mostly so I could carry heavier...
@markboris That's a nice and simple fix! Reading over it, wanted to provide a few suggestions-
#1 - get out of the dark ages of that spectrum analyzer! Get a Dayton Audio UMM-6, REW software, and a laptop to take some real measurements of the system.
#2 - RE Your comments on audio reflecting...
In case you need to get the back off too to get underneath that area, there is a plastic piece between the seat and the C-pillar piece. Remove that, then pull up on the seat. You can then slide the seat around. There is a wire for the weight sensor - unsure how to unplug but should be easy to...
Yup - opened the door to this just hanging out. Must not have got it quite clipped in on reassembly.
Snapped it back in place, reassembled door, and no error code comes on the dash!
Thanks for the help @Snakebitten !
This is not one I'm familiar with. The door cards are really easy to take off, the inner door skin is a little bit more of a hassle but not difficult.
If it's a plasticy nosie, then it's probably on the door card. You could take off the card and see if you could replicate the noise by bending...
This is awesome, thanks!
I'm thinking based on all these error codes that maybe this piece wasn't reassembled quite right and is stuck open -
I'm going to wait for it to cool down a bit, but will open up the rear doors later today and report back!
I've been working on sound deadening the car and wanted to share results with the community! So far I have treated the front/rear doors, roof, C-pillar/trunk sides.
At each step I took measurements using REW real time analysis (RTA) and a UMM-6 microphone. All measurements were completed using...
I've been slowly sound deadening my car over the last couple weeks.
9/1 I did the rear door card -
9/10 this Tuesday I finished the rear doors exterior/interior skin. I didn't take a picture of it, but the fronts look like this and were completed 9/7. The rears were treated similarly...