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Maybe tinting the side glass would be more helpful?

I think he is referencing the statement "The electric heater is the only source of heat to warm the cabin." This makes it sound like the heat pump isn't used for cabin heat. I would guess this is a misprint / failure to properly update documentation to match reality.

In the US, the 8-year / 100,000 mile warranty covers the high-voltage components including battery, motor(s), HVBJV, etc. The warranty in other countries may vary.

my bad, was thinking 240V charging

If you are running the heat, the car has to be in the ON setting, which means the HV battery is connected, running the heat and other accessories, and charging the 12V battery. How long you can do this depends on SOC, heat setting, outside temp, etc., but the heater in your model draws a max of...

:facepalm:

It's been 5.5 years, probably too late for him to cancel now... :giggle:

are you sure the batt_soc_dem value is the HV battery and not the 12V?

If your car has 20" wheels, I have a set of Pirelli summer tires I removed a year ago with very good remaining tread. PM me if interested. I'm also in NC.

You just resurrected a 4+ year old thread...

I've put around 8K on Vredestein Quatrac Pro+ after removing my summer Pirelli's at 6K for the winter. I've been quite happy with them so far.

I've only found it useful in rentals or other cars that I haven't driven previously. Once I drive a car for a while, I know which side it is on.

First, you need to be in "on" mode, not accessory mode. Then, upon exiting, there are several ways to lock the car. One is to touch and hold the embossed lock symbol that is just above the button. I look into the window to the passenger side to see the amber "locked" LED illuminate. You can also...

Also necessary to protect vendor from people getting $40 charge when they only have $5 of available credit...

Do they not provide any pricing online or in an app? Was just curious and went to their web site to look up FL chargers...

I had that issue last year, a software update resolved it. Don't remember what the update was, however.

the issue with applying force other than at the handle of the torque wrench was/is a thing for beam-type wrenches with an indicator pointer that extends from the socket end back to the handle. These wrenches work by measuring the amount of bend in the arm from the handle back to the socket...

Notice that just inside the outer shell there is a circular flat ring of metal. There is one small spot where that ring has a "bump-out" that extends towards the screen when the knob is glued on. That touches the screen. If you are touching the knob, the conductivity between the knob and that...

If your alignment is good prior to replacing the rims, it should still be good after, unless shop shenanigans take place...