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Probably nothing. Every time mine has done it, there has been no obstruction, but I guess this being overly sensitive is preferred!

Not sure on why it went down, unless it went down when you were trying to one touch them up? The window detected resistance so it stops and retracts, thinking it hit something. You then have to raise it manually to show it’s fine and then one touch will work again, I’ve had this happen probably...

There’s the post here thread to check what FDRS updates you have. There is a bug when getting back to back updates, the prior update, even if completed successfully, says failed or not completed when you check the software update section. This usually means it’s downloading the next update and...

Where was the new rear motor previously mentioned? That’s a bummer, as it is highly doubtful older Gets can buy the performance upgrade.

No, I like an option with no phone holder and no slots for one, please!

Doubtful anything we say will convince them otherwise. I don’t even see the problem, as long as it’s covered under warranty, let them do whatever they have to do to get it right. If it’s an issue of not trusting them after botching the recall, that’s a different story as it can get trickier to...

What kind of help are you looking for? Just have them do whatever they say is needed to make it right. Or are you saying they want to charge you for the work?

Depends on state/country laws. I'm not sure in Canada. In California, dealers can use a car as a demo/loaner and rack up thousands of miles and still sell it as new. I think it has to have below 5k or something like that to still be sold as "new."

Mine has failed every year around July/August, so I'm getting close to getting the "better" part. It would be my third replacement. Lemon Law at that point? Take advantage of tanking prices and get a brand new 2024?!?

What does resetting the BMS do exactly? Is it worth doing it as a preventative step even if you've been getting OTAs fine?

I understand, it could still be caused by a persistent DTC that just needs clearing that you can do with an OBD reader. Rather than taking it to the dealer, I was hoping your body shop would be kind enough to do a quick DTC scan and clear. If the issue persists after that, then you have no...

Yeah, but when you remove it, you still have that gap where it is supposed to go. I'd love a clean one.

Did the error come up as soon as you got the car from the body shop? Just ask them to hook up a scan tool and clear any codes.

I like it, I thought of getting the existing one but I didn't want the phone holder. Is there a way to put felt or something on the bottom so it doesn't scratch the dash?

Could be a sign the motor is going out, mine stutters as well. Some people have had luck getting it replaced under warranty. Definitely worth taking it in for both issues and checking TSBs for your car so you can get them all knocked out before your warranty is up!

You always want to go to the “all” tab and run a self test on all modules. Then click clear and retest. Should get green on all. If not, turn off car, close door, wait a minute then turn it back on, accessory mode only, and run again.

I feel like the rears would hopefully be enough, I might still give them a shot. Let me know what you end up doing!

I've never put mine on because of how ugly they look, I would just do the passenger side, but you spurred me to check for a solution, this might work, I'm going to give it a go! It says in the FAQ it is compatible with the MME. https://www.slappass.com/

Was this yesterday you experienced it? Have you tried driving again today? Anything wonky has a good chance of working itself out after the vehicle sits off overnight. If it is still doing it today, try and reboot your Sync a few times. On the steering wheel, press and hold volume down and next...

I heard this is a limitation on Apple’s side of things. Nothing to hope for Ford to do.