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I don’t know much about this sort of thing but could you just pursue this in small claims court? That shouldn’t be too time consuming (probably less time than multiple trips to the dealer). I just quickly searched google and found this...

Maybe it’s the day Ford officially recognizes the bounciness problem by announcing a recall for non magneride cars whereby Ford will replace our suspension systems with properly designed and tuned ones. The impetus for this is the soon to be announced NTSA report detailing the problem with tall...

Sorry for the naive question but just curious— how do you objectively measure your speed accurately and precisely, while driving, to get those numbers?

I don’t know if this a CarPlay thing but I could swear that Spotify is snappier after 6.14. When I advance to the next song manually by hitting the button on the steering wheel the next song loads more quickly. I mentioned this in another thread but no one picked up on it so I’m curious if...

I got mine yesterday while driving. I noticed that my CarPlay got disconnected briefly and then reconnected and when I got home I got the notification of the update so wondered if the CarPlay issue was when the update happened. Speaking of CarPlay I could swear that Spotify is now faster to...

I stand corrected! I also confirmed with ChargePoint that it’s fine to run it at a lower charging current. But isn’t it generally true that a device might not be adequately protected (depending on its design) if it is on a circuit with a breaker that is too high (even assuming that the wiring of...

What happened?

It’s too bad there is no locking mechanism as with TeslaTaps, though the size of lock it accommodates is pretty wimpy. But it’s something at least.

Tried it. Didn’t resolve.

My understanding is that unless the device is specifically designed to be downrated compared to the breaker amperage, it should not be run at lower amperage. But maybe the ChargePoint is fine for that since it can handle up to 48A. I think the idea is that if the breaker is rated much higher...

Thanks, didn’t realize that. But I thought the general rule to protect the equipment was that the breaker shouldn’t be oversized (by more than 25%) for the current being drawn. I didn’t think the ChargePoint was intended to be downrated current-wise but maybe I misunderstood. Is it designed in a...

Your ChargePoint is switchable? I have the Homeflex and I thought the only way to switch was to call the company. Mine is on a 60A circuit and so is set for 48A.

Thanks! Are you happy with it? I actually tried to sand down the inside of the TT with a dremel but it’s not easy. Not sure if it will help but I figured it was worth a try since I couldn’t in good conscience sell my TT to someone. If it doesn’t work I’ll probably get the Lectron.

Thanks, this is helpful. I’m more used to working with currents and voltages in the mA and mV range or smaller.

Smart. I remember our back and forth about this a while ago. I use a block of wood and a hammer to bang it off. I should really just get the Lectron. Which did you get?

How much more expensive? More than say $500 which would be about what having a TeslaTap plus a NACS adapter would cost (not counting the fact that many of us are getting the Ford one free of charge).

Except when the fit is so tight that it becomes torture to remove. That’s been my issue with it. I should have returned mine when I had the chance but decided to see if using it would make it a bit looser. It has but only slightly and it’s still a pain. I’ve heard the newer ones don’t have this...

I decided to just hit the update now button and go for it. It went fine.

Yes, I have a TeslaTap. I was just trying to understand the technology a bit more.

Good point, missed that.