Colorider

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I have been geeking out on efficiency for a long time and the MME is no exception. Here is a recap of the first 7 months of ownership. I capture my mileage and reported efficiency using Trip 2 every month and get my electricity input from my ChargePoint.
D094B289-1309-4039-9DFE-3FD103B156AF.png


So far my lifetime efficiency is 3.08Mi/kWh which I am happy with. I am seeing a 34% decrease in December compared to last summer but I do have winter tires on now so it’s not just the weather impacting me. It has been a mild winter though so I would expect a bigger drop if it were colder. BTW, I don’t regularly precondition (only when really cold) but since I am focused on input electricity, any juice from Pre-C is included in those green bars.

So far I have used 2,783 kW of power and all but 74 of that has been at home. For the 2,708kW from home, I paid $284 based on $0.105 per kW so that is pretty awesome for that amount of driving. My last car was a Mariner Hybrid which got 28mpg and I would have paid $1,087 to drive the same distance with current gas prices—that is $800 in savings for driving a car that is 10 times more fun!

All in all, I am super happy so far!
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Murse-In-Airy

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These are the kind of numbers I like to read about. Thank you for sharing the data.
 

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Perfection, 8-9% error in mi/kWh reporting (no one can tell me why) and 9-10% charger/inverter losses and comes up to 17-20% difference, exactly what your numbers prove. I just wish the Ford reported the the real true Mi/kWH (All Miles over ALL kWh used for those miles) so all we had to figure or assume is charger/inverter losses.

My Hyundai Ioniq is like that. 8% inverter loss and you get the exact numbers the car reports in mi/kWh.

Oh well, I still love my Mach E and I am happy with these numbers for this great EV.
 
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Colorider

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Thanks! I wish we had more decimal points on the Mi/kWh number—that would improve accuracy a lot. I am working on a model for preconditioning and just did a quick test. My drive today was “3.3Mi/kWh” which means 5.06kWh. If that were really 3.25, that would be 5.00kWh and if were really 3.34, it would be 5.14kWh. I know that seems trivial, but that’s a 3% difference between the high and low. 🤓

Also, I have been looking at numbers in the 2 range and thinking that they aren’t THAT much worse than a 3, but that is a 1/3rd drop. I need to get my head around Mi/kWh a little more…
 

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Nice data. Does the "Actual efficiency" include EVSE losses? Or are we assuming that's part of the difference here?
 
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Colorider

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Nice data. Does the "Actual efficiency" include EVSE losses? Or are we assuming that's part of the difference here?
Thanks! Yes, I’m not sure how much is lost between the wall and the ChargePoint, but the Actual Efficiency is taking the CP output and dividing miles by that number so this is as close to a “pump-based mpg calculation” as I can get.
 

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Thanks! Yes, I’m not sure how much is lost between the wall and the ChargePoint, but the Actual Efficiency is taking the CP output and dividing miles by that number so this is as close to a “pump-based mpg calculation” as I can get.
Got it-- but aren't there losses (around 10%) between the ChargePoint output and actual energy delivered to the battery itself? That is, the car itself won't charge at 100% efficiency, so there are some losses here that probably aren't accounted for. Even the car running its conditioner to heat the battery while charging takes some power.
 
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Colorider

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Got it-- but aren't there losses (around 10%) between the ChargePoint output and actual energy delivered to the battery itself? That is, the car itself won't charge at 100% efficiency, so there are some losses here that probably aren't accounted for. Even the car running its conditioner to heat the battery while charging takes some power.
Yes there are lots of places for loss in this analysis. I usually only charge to 70% but have definitely done 100% a few times and recently switched to 80% during the winter because of the range loss. I have yet to do DCFC but that would add a whole new opportunity for loss I think.
 

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So 3.08 miles/KW is an interesting number as it puts your car at 209.44 mile range with the standard battery which has an EPA number of 211. I also have a Select AWD and have thought that the Mach E miles/KW numbers seemed a little high as my car reports 3.9 miles/KW for 6000 miles and my own calculations have always come up a little lower.

The times I have made longer kayaking trips this summer I had a 19' kayak strapped on the roof on the highway at 70 with the AC going and generally found my miles/KW to be 3.0, my around town numbers were more like 3.4.
 
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Colorider

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So 3.08 miles/KW is an interesting number as it puts your car at 209.44 mile range with the standard battery which has an EPA number of 211. I also have a Select AWD and have thought that the Mach E miles/KW numbers seemed a little high as my car reports 3.9 miles/KW for 6000 miles and my own calculations have always come up a little lower.
That number is “at the pump” because it takes my total input energy and doesn’t account for the loss in that process. My actual “ range mileage” would be about 10% higher than that. However, so much of the calculation above is during warm temps. I need to have a full year of seasons before the number is really a fair representation.
 

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You should be able to get the average temperature and map that on the graph also. I think this will be revealing. I'm north of you also in Colorado and switched to snow tires which immediately wrecked my efficiency, but that is the price that I'm worth paying.
 
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Colorider

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You should be able to get the average temperature and map that on the graph also. I think this will be revealing. I'm north of you also in Colorado and switched to snow tires which immediately wrecked my efficiency, but that is the price that I'm worth paying.
Yes I have had Blizzaks sincemid November and I’m sure that is part of the decrease. I was sure happy to have them this morning though!

Average temp is hard since I commute early AM so what I see when driving can be way different than the daily average. (and you know how much fluctuation we can have in CO weather over a month 🤪).
 

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@Colorider, what is included in the difference between actual and reported efficiency? Input based on Fordpass or input based on the charger itself?

I noticed myself there is about +20% difference between what the car tells me the efficiency is vs what I calculate based on what Fordpass tells me I put vs driven miles.
This is however still excluding the loss of kwh during charging. With each charge (20% to 90%) there is about 5kwh more on my meter than Fordpass shows (aprox 5%). This is caused by the inverter in the car which causes loss of heat.
Things get much worse while charging to 100%, in that case the loss while loading goes up to over 10% over the full charge. This means that the last 10% takes about double the kwh from the net then actually gets into the battery.
 

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@Colorider, what is included in the difference between actual and reported efficiency? Input based on Fordpass or input based on the charger itself?

I noticed myself there is about +20% difference between what the car tells me the efficiency is vs what I calculate based on what Fordpass tells me I put vs driven miles.
This is however still excluding the loss of kwh during charging. With each charge (20% to 90%) there is about 5kwh more on my meter than Fordpass shows (aprox 5%). This is caused by the inverter in the car which causes loss of heat.
Things get much worse while charging to 100%, in that case the loss while loading goes up to over 10% over the full charge. This means that the last 10% takes about double the kwh from the net then actually gets into the battery.
10% are charger/inverter losses. 9-10% are unknown and something within the car. The car reports 9-10% better efficiency than reality. I wish Ford would chime into why.

my Hyundai Ioniq EV is spot on, period. Compensate for 8% for charger/inverter losses any time of year to what the car reports in Mi/kWh and you get exactly what the charger meter reads.
 
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Colorider

Colorider

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@Colorider, what is included in the difference between actual and reported efficiency?
Actual is calculated based on the miles divided by the charger data. Reported is what is displayed on Trip 2 at the end of the month before I reset it.
 
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