Shayne

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Reading page 268 of the user manual about jump charging 12V battery - does this mean that a normal ICE vehicle can be used to jump charge the 12V battery? I am assuming so but looking to see if I misunderstand. Looks like I will need a 12v portable charger to jump open the frunk if needed.
I read that and though it was just not edited out. Rev up the charging vehicle and leave connected for 3 minutes? Sounds like jump starting an ICE vehicle not charging a 12V battery. I think it would be best to use a charger and the port connections?
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JellyBelly

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I read that and though it was just not edited out. Rev up the charging vehicle and leave connected for 3 minutes? Sounds like jump starting an ICE vehicle not charging a 12V battery. I think it would be best to use a charger and the port connections?
Yup a charger makes sense but trying to understand all options in an emergency
 

Ron Bonifas

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Not unless 204 Nm is also a misprint.


And it’s ftLb ;)
lb/ft is doubly wrong (there is no division, and the order matters mathematically).
Ford shop manual says 100 foot pounds or 135 newton meters
 

Shayne

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Yup a charger makes sense but trying to understand all options in an emergency
Understand and it sure does not read clear. CC makes sense you can jump start an ICE with a bev but the same can not be returned.

Jump Starting the Vehicle

4. Run both vehicles for a minimum of three minutes before disconnecting the cables.


That is when you need those propulsion sounds on I guess? ;)
 


Psipunk

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Yeah while I agree - my current mazda does both (beep and blinking lights) and i find that additional beep to be additional assurance especially in two lane turns. Again i know that lot of mfrs dont add the beep - BMW for example. So I am sure I can live without the beeps. Drove for years without any of this right. But philosophically I dont understand why the audio beep is not available - I get that they are trying to not make the driver depend on the beeps.

Plan to enjoy the Mach E anyway.
You won't need an audio cue anymore.

If you try to change lanes while a car is in the lane next to you in your blind spot, the car will fight you for control. The steering wheel itself will provide you feedback and resistance so you don't push the vehicle into the occupied lane.

Thats called a driver assistance feature. My dad's new RAV 4 does that and I am sure it will be the same with the Mach-E. You can definately feel it and at that point is when you will realize one thing:

A.I. will make humanity obsolete.

All hail Skynet!
 

Nak

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I knew I’d get a taker ;)

Moments are vector math. It’s not T = r *times* f, it’s τ⃗ =r⃗ ×F (except I can’t figure out how to get the arrow over the F).

Cross products are non-commutative. r cross f doesn’t equal f cross r. If it were a dot product, it could go either way.

meter Newtons is mathematically correct, while the convention (Nm) is not.
By definition it is exact force x distance or # x ft (moment or torque) normal units Kip.ft or #.ft. #/ft is an incorrect representation for the units for moment.
You're both absolutely correct. Unfortunately I believe you are both also incorrect given the context. We aren't calculating torque when we torque a bolt. We are measuring torque. The unit we are measuring is the "Pound-foot" which in this context is defined as the torque equal to that created by X pounds of force applied perpendicular to a one foot moment arm. The notation is correct because that is the definition of the torque we are measuring. In other fields certainly notation is different, but in the field of a mechanic measuring torque, this is the notation currently in use. That said, "Foot-Pounds" is also in common use and as such is also correct. Although given the definition it doesn't make much sense technically. But mechanics have no problem interpreting either notation so the point is "Moo." It's like a cow's opinion; it really doesn't matter. ;)
 

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Page 152 "charging your vehicle"

WARNING: Do not operate the Ford Mobile Charger in temperature outside its operation range of -22ºF to +122ºF (-30ºC to +50ºC).

If it is below -22 (-30 for us) I thought for sure I would want to leave it plugged in not to freeze the batteries and make sure it has the juice to maintain it. Only normally happens a few times a year but it will happen. Confusing why I would not operate the charger? We definitely have block heaters plugged in below that temp (nothing moves if you don't). Can anyone explain the logic behind this warning and does anyone know of a Nema 14-50 (40 amps) charger that is rated below minus 30 oC?
That caught my attention, too. There are two likely reasons for that lower temperature limit:
1. Electronic components typically have a certified\tested temperature range. If you look at specifications for most electronics you will typically see a standard lower limit of -20 or -40. It doesn't mean they won't work, they just haven't been tested outside that range. Wires and electricity don't care how cold it is, but the various coatings covering them may become brittle (fragile) below certain temperatures. It costs more for lower temp spec coatings, so....
2. Depending on the rubber content of the power cable, the cable becomes less flexible as temperature drops. I'm sure you have seen that many times in your neck of the woods. That stiffening makes the cable more likely to break its' protective cover when you flex it, resulting in a shock hazard. Grizzl-E of Canada makes good low temperature spec. charging accessories (go figure).

For you southern folk - pretty much all of you- if you want to have some fun, stretch out a 25' power cord in -40 weather for an hour then try to fit it back into your 15' long car. It'll been frozen like a 25' flag pole.

Ford: Pet peeve! Your vehicle temperature sensors never have a low enough range. They all bottom out at -20 or -40. I want to know how quickly I'm going to die if I get stuck. Might not even be worth trying to dig it out.
 

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I read that and though it was just not edited out. Rev up the charging vehicle and leave connected for 3 minutes? Sounds like jump starting an ICE vehicle not charging a 12V battery. I think it would be best to use a charger and the port connections?
If the 12v battery is too low on charge to function then it needs to be boosted to turn on the car. Connect a jumper battery or another vehicle to the 12v battery with jumper cables. If the helper (charging) vehicle is an ICE, then rev it up for a few minutes. This will allow the ECM to sense the voltage loss of the flat battery and turn up the alternator for max current to the charging circuit.

To get to the 12v battery, you have to open the hood. Problem is the hood release is electric and the battery is weak so it might not work. In that case, pop open the secret door in the bumper, pull out the leads and connect to a 12v source. That will pop the hood so you can access the on board 12v battery.
 

Nak

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For you southern folk - pretty much all of you- if you want to have some fun, stretch out a 25' power cord in -40 weather for an hour then try to fit it back into your 15' long car. It'll been frozen like a 25' flag pole.
I had to spend time in Edmonton and got to experience -40 and below. (For those of you lucky enough to never have experienced -40, it doesn't matter if its fahrenheit or celsius, it's the same temp either way.) So I know you're wrong. Because as soon as you stretch out that cord you're going to get on an airplane and get the hell to somewhere warmer. ;)

Just having fun, you're absolutely right of course. Brrrrrr.
 

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You're both absolutely correct. Unfortunately I believe you are both also incorrect given the context. We aren't calculating torque when we torque a bolt. We are measuring torque.
I’d say we are doing neither. We are applying it. ?
 
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Shayne

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That caught my attention, too. There are two likely reasons for that lower temperature limit:
1. Electronic components typically have a certified\tested temperature range. If you look at specifications for most electronics you will typically see a standard lower limit of -20 or -40. It doesn't mean they won't work, they just haven't been tested outside that range. Wires and electricity don't care how cold it is, but the various coatings covering them may become brittle (fragile) below certain temperatures. It costs more for lower temp spec coatings, so....
2. Depending on the rubber content of the power cable, the cable becomes less flexible as temperature drops. I'm sure you have seen that many times in your neck of the woods. That stiffening makes the cable more likely to break its' protective cover when you flex it, resulting in a shock hazard. Grizzl-E of Canada makes good low temperature spec. charging accessories (go figure).

For you southern folk - pretty much all of you- if you want to have some fun, stretch out a 25' power cord in -40 weather for an hour then try to fit it back into your 15' long car. It'll been frozen like a 25' flag pole.

Ford: Pet peeve! Your vehicle temperature sensors never have a low enough range. They all bottom out at -20 or -40. I want to know how quickly I'm going to die if I get stuck. Might not even be worth trying to dig it out.
Thanks; I will check out Grizzle. I have snapped extension cords in half and know not all coatings are equal when it comes to block heater extensions cords. Especially when you want to wind them up before leaving.

WARNING: Do not use Ford Mobile Charger in severe rain, snow or electrical storm.

I will wait to see what comes with the vehicle and look into grizzle for sure :(.
 

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That caught my attention, too. There are two likely reasons for that lower temperature limit:
1. Electronic components typically have a certified\tested temperature range. If you look at specifications for most electronics you will typically see a standard lower limit of -20 or -40. It doesn't mean they won't work, they just haven't been tested outside that range. Wires and electricity don't care how cold it is, but the various coatings covering them may become brittle (fragile) below certain temperatures. It costs more for lower temp spec coatings, so....
2. Depending on the rubber content of the power cable, the cable becomes less flexible as temperature drops. I'm sure you have seen that many times in your neck of the woods. That stiffening makes the cable more likely to break its' protective cover when you flex it, resulting in a shock hazard. Grizzl-E of Canada makes good low temperature spec. charging accessories (go figure).

For you southern folk - pretty much all of you- if you want to have some fun, stretch out a 25' power cord in -40 weather for an hour then try to fit it back into your 15' long car. It'll been frozen like a 25' flag pole.

Ford: Pet peeve! Your vehicle temperature sensors never have a low enough range. They all bottom out at -20 or -40. I want to know how quickly I'm going to die if I get stuck. Might not even be worth trying to dig it out.
This is why i bought a juicebox pro. Operating temperatures: -30 to +50 C
 

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I don't know about you, but automatic high beam lights are worth the $54K price-tag alone! Very Nice!

Ford Mustang Mach-E 2021 Mach-E User Owners Manual Now Available! Screen Shot 2020-11-19 at 22.43.13
Sorry to say, but what we get in America is a small step above a tea candle in a jelly jar compared to what the modern world (read ANYWHERE else) gets for headlights. Our European friends are going to be getting active matrix headlamps, if I’m not mistaken. All because of the incredibly powerful tea candle and jelly jar lobbyists in this country ?

seriously, our headlamps are primitive due to regulations.
 
 




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