'24 B&O Audio System Harsh High End (Tweeters)

[markboris]

FWIW the 2023 loaner I had was the same- center still loud in “stereo mode.”

I didn’t like it. Thought the 2021 sounded better.

So maybe this updated harsh sounding system started in ‘23? Very possible.

Sponsored

 

[DK_Min]

@markboris , thank you for all of your audio posts! I’m grateful that there are other enthusiasts here on this site.

My 22’ is still fairly new to me as I bought it brand new in October and this is the longest I’ve owned a car without doing an audio upgrade. That said I have read every detail of your subwoofer post and was almost ready to pull the trigger on the powered JL 10” when I remembered I have a shallow mount Stereo Integrity BM II MK III kicking around from a previous build. Just threw that in a box and will get an amp and will install it and keep everyone posted when it’s warmer in the spring. It’s supposed to be a very linear SQ sub and with the box is just over 5” deep so it should fit under the panel.

Did you pull your sub signal from the old sub, or your rear speakers (to eliminate the delay)? I’ll try the foam in the tweet housings. How easy were they to remove? Does that soundbar looking panel just pop out?

When I was 18 my first paycheque as a Computer Tech (summer job) purchased a JL 12w7 in a High Output box. That thing took up the whole trunk of my Toyota Matrix but was incredible. Sq and SPL all together in one. My second paycheque of course was for the 1000/1 JL amp to power it!

Really cool that you worked with THX back in the day and I remember laserdiscs being so incredible (and shiny)! When I was a student I had buddies who were audio installers used to hang out in the bay while they worked and learned a lot. That combined with my love of audio drove me to Electrical Engineering so I was so happy to see you playing with caps and pulling out the RTA. With young kids I don’t get to tinker too much these days, and projects take longer, but I have a massive appreciation for a good build.

@Mach1E, home audio is an interesting and wonderful world and I’m fortunate to have purchased a lot of my gear before I got married and some before we had kids. The SAF rating on my Martin Logan’s in my living room is quite low and gets lower every time she goes away for a weekend as they come further out from the wall and the couch moves for better sound placement.

We just got a nice ML setup for my best friend who is going through cancer so even though it has a lower SAF than my set, his wife was accepting. She even recently said “Wow, that does sound pretty nice!”

We even got him a pair of - triple driver subwoofers. One isn’t working but I’m pretty sure it’s just a dry power regulation cap I have to swap out when he gets back from his next treatment.

I think when one is married, the SAF is the most importing specification of any gear.

Oh yeah, SAF = ‘Spousal Acceptance Factor’

Love it!

I’m still in the process of updating the home theater system, and each step definitely requires “wife approval.” I think I may have pushed her a bit over the top with the center channel. The direct quote was “when you showed me the picture, you didn’t explain it was THAT BIG!”

The old system was all JBL and an old Yamaha 6.1 and a 12” Polk psw505. 65” Sony LED TV.

New setup-

Onkyo Atmos receiver RZ50 5.4.2 setup
Mains- Revel F226be
Center- Revel C426be
Rears- Revel M126be (but wife vetoed so going back to Polk OWM3)
4x ceiling speakers- JBL 6IC
Sub 1- SVS PB2000 pro
Sub 2- SVS PC2000 pro

TV- Samsung 77” OLED QN77S90

 

[HuntingPudel]

First, I’m ashamed to confess that my home theater setup is a soundbar and sub.
<SNIP>

LOL my living room video setup is a Sony TV. Granted, it was their top of the line back when I bought it and it has fantastic sound that I think it should not be able to make. My bedroom setup is a set of Klipsch 2.1 speakers with very good sound. Since my brother prefers to watch content on his phone, there isn’t a need to upgrade anything. Other more important things.

 

[markboris]

@markboris , thank you for all of your audio posts! I’m grateful that there are other enthusiasts here on this site.

My 22’ is still fairly new to me as I bought it brand new in October and this is the longest I’ve owned a car without doing an audio upgrade. That said I have read every detail of your subwoofer post and was almost ready to pull the trigger on the powered JL 10” when I remembered I have a shallow mount Stereo Integrity BM II MK III kicking around from a previous build. Just threw that in a box and will get an amp and will install it and keep everyone posted when it’s warmer in the spring. It’s supposed to be a very linear SQ sub and with the box is just over 5” deep so it should fit under the panel.

Did you pull your sub signal from the old sub, or your rear speakers (to eliminate the delay)? I’ll try the foam in the tweet housings. How easy were they to remove? Does that soundbar looking panel just pop out?

When I was 18 my first paycheque as a Computer Tech (summer job) purchased a JL 12w7 in a High Output box. That thing took up the whole trunk of my Toyota Matrix but was incredible. Sq and SPL all together in one. My second paycheque of course was for the 1000/1 JL amp to power it!

Really cool that you worked with THX back in the day and I remember laserdiscs being so incredible (and shiny)! When I was a student I had buddies who were audio installers used to hang out in the bay while they worked and learned a lot. That combined with my love of audio drove me to Electrical Engineering so I was so happy to see you playing with caps and pulling out the RTA. With young kids I don’t get to tinker too much these days, and projects take longer, but I have a massive appreciation for a good build.

@Mach1E, home audio is an interesting and wonderful world and I’m fortunate to have purchased a lot of my gear before I got married and some before we had kids. The SAF rating on my Martin Logan’s in my living room is quite low and gets lower every time she goes away for a weekend as they come further out from the wall and the couch moves for better sound placement.

We just got a nice ML setup for my best friend who is going through cancer so even though it has a lower SAF than my set, his wife was accepting. She even recently said “Wow, that does sound pretty nice!”

We even got him a pair of - triple driver subwoofers. One isn’t working but I’m pretty sure it’s just a dry power regulation cap I have to swap out when he gets back from his next treatment.

I think when one is married, the SAF is the most importing specification of any gear.

Oh yeah, SAF = ‘Spousal Acceptance Factor’

Hey Matt, there are actually quite a few audio enthusiasts here on this forum and some have gone all out completely gutting the system in the Mach-E replacing it with very high end equipment. I have done the same with previous cars and it sounds like you have too.

Here's a quick story that friends of mine still talk about... When I got my first car, a 1965 Mustang, I was a sophomore in high school and the year was 1970. There were NO car stereos to speak of during this time so I went down to Radio Shack and purchased their smallest home amp/preamp combo, cassette player, couple of 8" woofers for the rear deck and some other speakers that I don't even remember and had a decent sounding stereo that no one else at my school had ever seen or heard. Biggest issues was trying to remove the buzz/hum of the 12V inverter that kept coming through the speakers. Can't remember what I did to solve that either right now. I do remember several years later in 1979, Pioneer came out with the world's first car stereo that actually had bass and treble controls. Up until this point, you only got a "tone" control. I very clearly remember the model number (KP-500) as I bought several and installed them in my cars, parents cars and a few friends.

It sounds like your Stereo Integrity BM II MK III is going to be a perfect fit for under the cargo floor! Looking forward to hearing about your completed install.

In my first '21, (Premium) I pulled the signal from the OEM sub and called it a day. Seemed to sound ok and that is how I left it. My second '21 (GTPE) I started out just using the OEM sub signal but about two years laster (last year) I had read where a member found out when the volume control on Sync goes past 15, the sub signal starts to cut back so as not to overdrive the little 6x9 speaker. That and the OEM sub is not sent low bass frequencies. Probably around 35-40 Hz or so is filtered out. Knowing this, I bought a Kicker KEYLOC line output converter and connected it to the front speaker outputs coming from the B&O amp that is in the rear next to the sub. The KEYLOC detects the missing frequencies and outputs them to my JL sub. I now had deeper bass coming from the JL sub and the bass was not being throttled back if I went over 15 on the volume control. Just so you know, both of these two things were minor and some people are perfectly happy with the bass coming from their aftermarket sub and some rarely turn the volume past 15. My recommendation is to NOT use the KEYLOC or similar device and just connect to the OEM sub output to start with since it is much easier to do. Try it out and if you are happy with the bass, just stick with that. Also, several here have used the 12V power point in the rear of the car to get their 12V+ for the amp instead of running a power wire from the LVB in front. While this power point is only a 20A circuit, it seems to be working well for many depending on the amp and how efficient it is, type of music listened to and how loud they play their stereo. Just saying, you might want to try that.

In my '24 I am actually back to grabbing the signal from the OEM sub. I started a thread a couple of months ago just after I got the car that listed 19 things I noticed that were different between my '21's and the '24. One of them was the OEM woofer seemed to have deeper bass than I remember the ones in the '21. Yes it also seemed to have a delay between it and the door speakers but I am not getting that with the JL sub so maybe it was not an electrical delay but a mechanical one. My JL sub does seem to play lower frequencies than it did in the '21 GTPE without the KEYLOC so I'm not using it and don't plan to (recently gave it to a friend).

If I had to take a guess, the '22 model years probably have the same B&O setup as the '21's. I don't think the tweeters were harsh at all in the '21's so all you would need to do is add a bit of foam to those tweeter cone housings. Removing the "soundbar" dash grill is fairly easy. You just need to be patient and use a trim tool to start with (I start on the passenger side corner). Then you can easily pull the rest of it up by hand. There are 21 little plastic clips holding it on and 4 larger push in pins that are harder to lift up on. Those pins usually stay in the dash instead of coming up with the dash grill. I will post a photo of this down below. You don't need to remove the tweeters if you are only going to add the foam but if you want to, there is only one screw (20 torx) to remove and a clip and the tweeter pops out easily.

I have been a huge JL Audio fan ever since they started making subs back in the early 80's. I have continued to purchase their equipment all the way up to today. Not only their subs but also their amps. Never was a big fan of their door speakers though, just their subs.

I had a lot of fun working with my friends on their THX projects. How that went, I was close friends to an owner of a home theater store and purchased a lot of equipment from him including LaserDiscs when they first came out. One of his employees got a job working for THX and he was testing out audio for THX LaserDiscs that had not been released yet. He would use MY home theater (the photos in this post #10 ) to test as I had all certified THX equipment. I remember being invited to George Lucas's Skywalker Ranch up in Marin and previewing a movie (think it was one of the Raiders of the Lost Arc) in his Stag Theater. It was his private screening theater and that was a real big deal for me a the time. That was a very cool night and while I did not actually get to meet George, he was there. I do remember they had some technical difficulties during the movie and I thought how embarrassing that was for them. The theater was really small and only held about a few hundred people.

Funny you mention SAF because I had never heard of that one before. We always used WAF (wife acceptance factor) and so did all of the audio reviewers at the time. I guess things change and I'll start using SAF when it comes up. Something similar to what you mentioned about moving your speakers, I had a set of Martin Logan's at the time and had them perfectly positioned in my living room for my listening sweet spot. One weekend my mom came to stay with me and while I was out running errands, she decided they didn't look good so far from the back wall so she rearranged them for me. You can imagine the words that were spoken when I got home.

Sorry to hear about your friend and hope he recovers from this. Those M-L's he has look similar to their Quests that I owned at one time. Wish I had photos of all the home speakers I've owned in the past but many were before we all had digital cameras (where we take tons of photos) and most of my film photos got lost during a move prior to me converting them to digital to archive.

Photos:

Driver's side tweeter

Dash grill (Currently working on installing ambient lighting under grill)

JL subs/amps I've installed in my recent vehicles

F-150

Ranger

Escape

Focus RS

GT500

Mach-E

One of my favorite speakers, Martin Logan CLS. This was their full range electrostatic panel. No built-in sub, although I had a JL sub behind each one.

Forgot about these. They are Magnepan Magneplaner 3.6R's. I had a dedicated audio listening room in my previous house.

Now my audio listening is incorporated into my living room TV system. JBL L250ti LE

My current theater system (nothing like the custom built room I had in my previous home #10 ) is a converted bedroom. These are bad photos but you get the idea. That is actually a 98" TV but looks small in the photo.

 

[Mach1E]

Hey Matt, there are actually quite a few audio enthusiasts here on this forum and some have gone all out completely gutting the system in the Mach-E replacing it with very high end equipment. I have done the same with previous cars and it sounds like you have too.

Here's a quick story that friends of mine still talk about... When I got my first car, a 1965 Mustang, I was a sophomore in high school and the year was 1970. There were NO car stereos to speak of during this time so I went down to Radio Shack and purchased their smallest home amp/preamp combo, cassette player, couple of 8" woofers for the rear deck and some other speakers that I don't even remember and had a decent sounding stereo that no one else at my school had ever seen or heard. Biggest issues was trying to remove the buzz/hum of the 12V inverter that kept coming through the speakers. Can't remember what I did to solve that either right now. I do remember several years later in 1979, Pioneer came out with the world's first car stereo that actually had bass and treble controls. Up until this point, you only got a "tone" control. I very clearly remember the model number (KP-500) as I bought several and installed them in my cars, parents cars and a few friends.

It sounds like your Stereo Integrity BM II MK III is going to be a perfect fit for under the cargo floor! Looking forward to hearing about your completed install.

In my first '21, (Premium) I pulled the signal from the OEM sub and called it a day. Seemed to sound ok and that is how I left it. My second '21 (GTPE) I started out just using the OEM sub signal but about two years laster (last year) I had read where a member found out when the volume control on Sync goes past 15, the sub signal starts to cut back so as not to overdrive the little 6x9 speaker. That and the OEM sub is not sent low bass frequencies. Probably around 35-40 Hz or so is filtered out. Knowing this, I bought a Kicker KEYLOC line output converter and connected it to the front speaker outputs coming from the B&O amp that is in the rear next to the sub. The KEYLOC detects the missing frequencies and outputs them to my JL sub. I now had deeper bass coming from the JL sub and the bass was not being throttled back if I went over 15 on the volume control. Just so you know, both of these two things were minor and some people are perfectly happy with the bass coming from their aftermarket sub and some rarely turn the volume past 15. My recommendation is to NOT use the KEYLOC or similar device and just connect to the OEM sub output to start with since it is much easier to do. Try it out and if you are happy with the bass, just stick with that. Also, several here have used the 12V power point in the rear of the car to get their 12V+ for the amp instead of running a power wire from the LVB in front. While this power point is only a 20A circuit, it seems to be working well for many depending on the amp and how efficient it is, type of music listened to and how loud they play their stereo. Just saying, you might want to try that.

In my '24 I am actually back to grabbing the signal from the OEM sub. I started a thread a couple of months ago just after I got the car that listed 19 things I noticed that were different between my '21's and the '24. One of them was the OEM woofer seemed to have deeper bass than I remember the ones in the '21. Yes it also seemed to have a delay between it and the door speakers but I am not getting that with the JL sub so maybe it was not an electrical delay but a mechanical one. My JL sub does seem to play lower frequencies than it did in the '21 GTPE without the KEYLOC so I'm not using it and don't plan to (recently gave it to a friend).

If I had to take a guess, the '22 model years probably have the same B&O setup as the '21's. I don't think the tweeters were harsh at all in the '21's so all you would need to do is add a bit of foam to those tweeter cone housings. Removing the "soundbar" dash grill is fairly easy. You just need to be patient and use a trim tool to start with (I start on the passenger side corner). Then you can easily pull the rest of it up by hand. There are 21 little plastic clips holding it on and 4 larger push in pins that are harder to lift up on. Those pins usually stay in the dash instead of coming up with the dash grill. I will post a photo of this down below. You don't need to remove the tweeters if you are only going to add the foam but if you want to, there is only one screw (20 torx) to remove and a clip and the tweeter pops out easily.

I have been a huge JL Audio fan ever since they started making subs back in the early 80's. I have continued to purchase their equipment all the way up to today. Not only their subs but also their amps. Never was a big fan of their door speakers though, just their subs.

I had a lot of fun working with my friends on their THX projects. How that went, I was close friends to an owner of a home theater store and purchased a lot of equipment from him including LaserDiscs when they first came out. One of his employees got a job working for THX and he was testing out audio for THX LaserDiscs that had not been released yet. He would use MY home theater (the photos in this post #10 ) to test as I had all certified THX equipment. I remember being invited to George Lucas's Skywalker Ranch up in Marin and previewing a movie (think it was one of the Raiders of the Lost Arc) in his Stag Theater. It was his private screening theater and that was a real big deal for me a the time. That was a very cool night and while I did not actually get to meet George, he was there. I do remember they had some technical difficulties during the movie and I thought how embarrassing that was for them. The theater was really small and only held about a few hundred people.

Funny you mention SAF because I had never heard of that one before. We always used WAF (wife acceptance factor) and so did all of the audio reviewers at the time. I guess things change and I'll start using SAF when it comes up. Something similar to what you mentioned about moving your speakers, I had a set of Martin Logan's at the time and had them perfectly positioned in my living room for my listening sweet spot. One weekend my mom came to stay with me and while I was out running errands, she decided they didn't look good so far from the back wall so she rearranged them for me. You can imagine the words that were spoken when I got home.

Sorry to hear about your friend and hope he recovers from this. Those M-L's he has look similar to their Quests that I owned at one time. Wish I had photos of all the home speakers I've owned in the past but many were before we all had digital cameras (where we take tons of photos) and most of my film photos got lost during a move prior to me converting them to digital to archive.

Photos:

Driver's side tweeter

Dash grill (Currently working on installing ambient lighting under grill)

JL subs/amps I've installed in my recent vehicles

F-150

Ranger

Escape

Focus RS

GT500

Mach-E

One of my favorite speakers, Martin Logan CLS. This was their full range electrostatic panel. No built-in sub, although I had a JL sub behind each one.

Forgot about these. They are Magnepan Magneplaner 3.6R's. I had a dedicated audio listening room in my previous house.

Now my audio listening is incorporated into my living room TV system. JBL L250ti LE

My current theater system (nothing like the custom built room I had in my previous home #10 ) is a converted bedroom. These are bad photos but you get the idea. That is actually a 98" TV but looks small in the photo.

One thing stands out to me in these photos and it’s AWESOME.

My wife instantly said no. My 13 year old asked “where would we put it?”

 

[Jimrpa]

One thing stands out to me in these photos and it’s AWESOME.

My wife instantly said no. My 13 year old asked “where would we put it?”

I saw those and all the LoTR stuff. Mark must be a big LoTR fan!

 

[iexiak]

@markboris That's a nice and simple fix! Reading over it, wanted to provide a few suggestions-

#1 - get out of the dark ages of that spectrum analyzer! Get a Dayton Audio UMM-6, REW software, and a laptop to take some real measurements of the system.


#2 - RE Your comments on audio reflecting in the tweeter housing. You actually want this to boost the lower frequencies of the tweeter. You want to boost those lower frequencies and play it as low as possible so that way the sound is coming from higher and in front of you - almost like you drove the Mustang up to a concert, where would the sound come from? It should be coming from the window and not the door. Our ears are more tuned to localize direction of noise for the higher frequencies the tweeter will play (and for the woofer too, it's really not until you get to the subwoofer frequencies below 80hz-100hz that localization stops mattering as much). By removing this reflection you are reducing the gain boost on the lower frequencies, but not the harsh upper frequencies which don't get this boost. https://www.audiofrog.com/dispersion-and-reflection/

I talked to one of the Harmon engineers that worked on our car. He said the following - "Also, putting foam in those tweeter cones is probably a bad idea. The system is far more complicated than a 1985 stereo. The cone is for coupling to the wonky a surface while keeping the tweeter pointed at the occupant. It's not designed as a horn." (though I'd argue that if it makes you happy, then why change it).

This is a large part of the reason I just put 3.5 pods in my car (and I really need to update my post haha). The factory door location drags a lot of the sound down, like the bass guitar and some of the drums come from the floor instead of in front of you. This dash location helps a ton. (PS - by Ford choosing this location we also lose a ton of low end extension because there isn't as much reflection off the floor. It's an unfortunate design choice that helps a lot with the upper end the 6.5 covers since they weren't putting something on the dash, while sacrificing the lower end).

#3 - putting in your own capacitor is a neat hack! I'd like to also recommend using Forscan and looking at 727-01-02 EQ selection. On the B+O system you have 13 EQ options hidden here. You might find that one of these EQ options are more pleasant. More information on the spreadsheet from Livnitup on tab ACM row 90-96. . (You may need to find the specific spreadsheet for 24's if it's different. Also related sub rolloff/speaker rolloff removing lower frequencies at higher volumes, in my testing only EQ 0 Flat EQ got rid of that feature, which is going to sound awful without a DSP processing it. This could be very different on B+O systems since the headunit does it's own internal DSP, but also passes it to a B+O amp that has it's own internal DSP that we can't change).

Harmon engineers words on this - "Also the caps on the tweeters are only for protection. The crossover is set in the dsp". This is very different from the base model where the tweeters have a passive crossover from the same amp channel that drives the 6.5 - and something to know for anyone upgrading the audio in a B+O system..


#4 RE the center channel being active - I think if you wanted to disable this in software instead of unplugging it, you would use rows 25-32 of that spreadsheet and choose one of the options that is "SCO No Speaker Connected" (unsure what this value is by default, suspect it would be 8 and should change to B).


@Mach1E there's a gigantic difference between theater audio and audio for music listening. You would maybe want a flat reproduction for a theater setup - to reproduce as the studio intended it to be played...but I would argue that most content has been mixed to the lowest denominator and you probably want to have some adjustibility on the fly. The movie industry has standardized on the 'X-curve' https://www.hometheatershack.com/th...is-why-you-need-it-how-to-do-it.96/#post-1307
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/validity-of-x-curve-for-cinema-sound.204/. The X-curve is clearly not flat at either end.

I'd also argue that it doesn't matter what your '$11k' speaker curve looks like *in somebody elses room*. Your room, placement of the speakers within the room, and the spots from where you will listen are much more important. If you are spending $11k on speakers without having a measurement mic and REW, I'd highly suggest getting one and spending a couple hours seeing how slight movement changes of your speakers affect the sound profile (IE moving out from the wall or changing the angle. Especially the subwoofer as reflections will change drastically and the tweeters as they don't reflect as much). I would hazard a guess that your $11k speakers in your room look more like any normal house curve (IE JBL/ATF/EPY, probably not Whitledge) due to room gain (where the lower frequencies will get naturally boosted by reflections).

I prefer the ATF curve below. I think a lot of why I prefer this in a car environment is due to impossible to remove things like road noise. To have a more balanced listening environment without having a harsh sound. IMHO, for car audio your curve *must* look something like this, with a high bass level and lower tweeter level. "House curves" are a very real thing for many reasons (IE dealing with bodies absorbing lower frequencies in a concert environment).

Everyone has their own preferences! I like this curve but you may prefer a different one. I can guarentee that flat would sound awful haha. I can also guarentee that my preference of curve is colored by playing bari/bass sax, bass guitar, and piano for decades in many different bands. Specifically, sitting in front of tubas/bass/timpany and next to drum kits with no protection has wrecked my hearing at the low end.

 

[markboris]

iexiak, completely agree about being in the dark ages with my little portable Audio Controls spectrum analyzer. I've only had that thing for at least 40 years. What I used to do when I lived in Santa Cruz, is stop by my preferred auto stereo place and borrow their equipment (I spent a lot of money there and they were very good to me). Don't remember what the brand was but it had 3 mics I had to place around inside the car and use their laptop that was setup with the proper software. Using parametric EQ's in my audio systems I would dial in the sound and all would be well. Not doing this anymore. Just a few tweaks here and there and that is it.

Every vehicle I have owned since 2002 I completely sound deaden. I do not do this to make the vehicle quieter, I do it to improve the sound of the audio, which as you know makes a big difference. Like you, I completely cover the door panels and the outer skin of the doors. I use Dynamat on all metal surfaces and Dynaliner foam over the Dynamat. On non metal surfaces I use Dynaliner foam. I also cover the entire inside of the rear quarter panels, cargo floor, under the rear seat and the entire floor under front seats up to the firewall. The entire roof is done, rear hatch and underneath all four fiber fender liners (outside). This greatly improves the mid-bass of the door speakers and reduces a lot of the backwave coming from those speakers. It obviously also improves my JL sub giving it tighter bass (less boomy now that all the metal body parts around it are dampened).

I understand what you are saying about the Mach-E tweeter enclosure and how it is boosting the lower frequencies by reflecting sound off the window but I don't want any reflective sound. I go to great lengths in my home so as not to have any reflective sound from my speakers on any surfaces. There are too many reflective surfaces in a car and I want to eliminate as much of that as I can. It may be just me but it certainly sounds better with the sound of the tweeter coming directly to me without reflecting off the window.

I can imagine how much better the sound is with those pods you added but I don't want to have something external looking like that. Back almost 4 years ago in my '21 I played with the EQ settings in FORScan on the B&O system and they all made very little difference. For the '24, mine was set to "flat" and sounds great. I did try like 6 of those settings and non changed the sound of those front tweeters. You mention the capacitor in the tweeter on the B&O system is mainly for protection and is not a crossover that that is done by the DSP. Only thing is, the DSP which is part of the B&O amp, does not power the tweeters. They are powered by the ACM so changing the EQ settings in FORScan would have no effect on the dash tweeters. Disconnecting the center dash speaker is faster for me that connection to FORScan and messing with the settings and besides over the years I have had settings in FORScan go back to their default after software updates and I know member here have had that issue also. Pull the connector, never have to worry about it again.

I liked your ATF curve graph you posted and that is exactly what I like my car audio graphs to look like after I'm done equalizing the system. It was what I was trying to explain to Mach1E. You want that high end to start rolling off around 8K or sometimes a bit earlier. As far as bass, as you mentioned, you want it on the louder side to overcome some of the road noise but the more sound deadening you do to the car, the less you need to bring the bass up.

 

[markboris]

One thing stands out to me in these photos and it’s AWESOME.

My wife instantly said no. My 13 year old asked “where would we put it?”

They are the exact replicas made by United Cutlery who made them for the movie. I have the papers of authenticity and I can't remember how many were made but it wasn't many. They were only available for a couple of weeks then all sold out.

 

[markboris]

I saw those and all the LoTR stuff. Mark must be a big LoTR fan!

While I am a big LOTR fan, I like to have some type of theme in my theater. The one I had before this was Star Wars. I've had the LOTR theme now in two different home theaters for over 20 years now. Not sure what my next theme will be but thinking of GOT. It is my favorite series I've ever watched.

 

[Jimrpa]

While I am a big LOTR fan, I like to have some type of theme in my theater. The one I had before this was Star Wars. I've had the LOTR theme now in two different home theaters for over 20 years now. Not sure what my next theme will be but thinking of GOT. It is my favorite series I've ever watched.

I’ve never seen GOT

if I could do a themed room, I’d probably do The Orville. Or, if I was forced to do a movie AND be serious - 2001: A Space Odyssey

 

[azerik]

looking at 727-01-02 EQ selection.
I've used this since hitting it by ear when I found the eq adjustments.

I will not fall victim to this thread. My wife has already done the damage to what was left of my theater room when our kid was born.Now she keep trying to get me to 'take out these big black speakers and just get a sound bar'. No. No I will not. lol.
Glad to see other audiophiles around. Sadly I killed off quite a bit of my hearing with IASCA SPL competitions in the early 90's.

As for Mark's swords, I kept looking at the Uruk-Hai scimitar thinking 'I've seen this somewhere recently'. Didn't place it to LOTR. It's monday..

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