I wouldn't use 16 if you have a GTPE because it's for magnaride otherwise you should be good with those. I'm using 4 taps and never had issues. If using empties you shouldn't ever have issues unless you are pulling way too much power.
Good points. I recently purchased the Blackvue 900; it has the built in protection to cut off power when the 12V reaches gets too low, or you can go into the settings and tell it to turn off when in Park Mode, or turn off in Park Mode after a set (short) period of time. I'm hoping I won't need the "gigantoid" battery.
Yep it does -- I wanted to have them operate in a park mode with a hotspot. But if you're cool with them turning off when needed, you can just use the voltage protection on the BlackVue. It will run down your battery to whatever level you set however, so not sure how great that is to have on permanently.
considering the relatively tiny size of our LVB.... 'always on' circuit with any significant load would cause significant voltage sag... perhaps bringing the system down too low to operate other stuff like the BT reliably when MME is sleeping.Like a few of you, I couldn't wait to install a dash cam the first weekend I had my shiny pon-e in the driveway. Following the excellent tutorial by @MachDoc , I tapped into fuse #4 (see image below, "borrowed" from that post) for a constant-on installation of a Vantrue N4, which worked like a charm.
As the weeks went by (has it really only been 3???), I was loving driving the car, software quirks and all (current trip not resetting reliably, one spurious but scary "powertrain malfunction," a couple of "no chargers in range" warnings, etc.). I figure, eventually, Ford will address these with an update.
However, what bothered me "from the start" was that my key FOB had a very low range and that walk-up unlocking or walk-away locking did not work reliably. I tried both FOBs and replacing the battery of one to no avail. I also tested with just the FOB in my hand and not in my pocket with my wallet (I ended up replacing the strong-magnet-containing wallet anyway even though it didnāt make a difference). My last, desperate thought before talking to the dealer was that maybe the dash cam is blocking the sensors or that the cables that I had stuffed into the mirror housing were somehow causing electromagnetic interference. Sure enough, as soon as I unplugged the camera, my FOB worked well and the car reliably locked and unlocked. I then eliminated one possible cause after another: I removed the camera from the windshield, pulled the cables out of the mirror housing, and unplugged the rear camera, but the only thing that cured the range and reliability issue was unplugging the power from the camera.
So I moved the camera power to the #24 fuse (25 A) and all was fine (that fuse is also constant on).
