jeffdawgfan

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When you had the door panels and front dash panels off did you take any photos of those speakers? I plan on replacing all of those also when I do my audio upgrades.
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this is awesome.

any recommendations for upgrades that are a step down in terms of complexity, like if i'm leasing/ford options... that are more plug and play?
This was not all that complex to install but I know what you mean and are looking for. Adding any decent sub would require you to add an additional amp and that would require running a power line to the amp since there is no power you can tap off of in the rear that would support an amp. There isn't enough room where the OEM sub is to replace it with a larger one. Maybe someone else will come up with an idea but don't see any other way.
 
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When you had the door panels and front dash panels off did you take any photos of those speakers? I plan on replacing all of those also when I do my audio upgrades.
The only photo I took was one of the front door. The speaker in the front door is not the same as the one in the rear door even though they are the same size. The front door speaker has a paper cone and the rear door speaker a plastic cone and just overall cheaper. Didn't take a photo of the rear door speaker or dash speakers.

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Yes both the 10" and 12" subs (which include the amp) fit under the cargo floor. If using the 10" sub, it is shallow enough that you can move the cargo floor down to the lower position and it barely touches the top of the speaker grill. If using the 12" sub, you need to keep the cargo floor in the upper position and there is still about 1 1/2" of space between the top of the speaker grill and bottom of the cargo floor.

Absolutely no issues with vibrations from the cargo floor or anywhere else that I have heard. This car is one of the most solid cars I have ever been in. However, I have sound deadened the entire car.
 

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Yes both the 10" and 12" subs (which include the amp) fit under the cargo floor. If using the 10" sub, it is shallow enough that you can move the cargo floor down to the lower position and it barely touches the top of the speaker grill. If using the 12" sub, you need to keep the cargo floor in the upper position and there is still about 1 1/2" of space between the top of the speaker grill and bottom of the cargo floor.

Absolutely no issues with vibrations from the cargo floor or anywhere else that I have heard. This car is one of the most solid cars I have ever been in. However, I have sound deadened the entire car.
Did you notice a need for the sound deadening in the MME, or just did it as your SOP with a new vehicle?
 


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Did you notice a need for the sound deadening in the MME, or just did it as your SOP with a new vehicle?
I mainly did it as my SOP with a new vehicle. Of all the cars I have had, I have never seen so much sound deadening in a car from the factory as the Mach-E. The interior door trims have quite a bit, the window regulators in the doors completely seals most of the noise from the outside. The rear quarter panels had material covering the rear wheel wells inside. The gap in the rear quarter panel between the wheel well and outer area had huge vats of cotton material. Under the car the motors are covered with sound deadening jackets. The firewall under the frunk area is completely lined. Many of the metal parts of the floor were covered in rubberized material. I can go on....

As I may have said earlier, I don't normally sound deaden my cars to make them quieter. I do it mainly for the audio system. Without deadening the metal in the doors, you get a lot of reverberation and echo from the rear of the speakers. When you install a nice sub in the cargo area, you want to tighten up all the metal around it so nothing vibrates and you get a more solid bass sound.
 

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I mainly did it as my SOP with a new vehicle. Of all the cars I have had, I have never seen so much sound deadening in a car from the factory as the Mach-E. The interior door trims have quite a bit, the window regulators in the doors completely seals most of the noise from the outside. The rear quarter panels had material covering the rear wheel wells inside. The gap in the rear quarter panel between the wheel well and outer area had huge vats of cotton material. Under the car the motors are covered with sound deadening jackets. The firewall under the frunk area is completely lined. Many of the metal parts of the floor were covered in rubberized material. I can go on....

As I may have said earlier, I don't normally sound deaden my cars to make them quieter. I do it mainly for the audio system. Without deadening the metal in the doors, you get a lot of reverberation and echo from the rear of the speakers. When you install a nice sub in the cargo area, you want to tighten up all the metal around it so nothing vibrates and you get a more solid bass sound.
I'm sure we've all heard the license plate rattle from a 'subwoofer on wheels'. ;) ??
 
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I'm sure we've all heard the license plate rattle from a 'subwoofer on wheels'. ;) ??
My license plate does not rattle. It is an LCD electronic license plate.

I am using the 12" for a few weeks. It is a friend of mine that loaned it to me from his Toyota truck. So the main difference between the 10" and 12" is the 12" goes a little lower in frequency. If you are familiar with particular song that has every deep bass, the 10" is a little thin but the 12" has more authority. They both play loud and especially with this B&O system which does not have all that much power to begin with. The 10" is more than enough but if you want that extra deep bass, solid down to 30 Hz, you want to go with the 12". It is mainly a personal preference depending on the music you listen to also.

As far as a sealed or ported box, I always try to go with sealed. I like very tight, deep bass and with none of the boomyness you get with a ported box. It takes a bit more power to produce similar volume of a ported box but the quality of bass is better.
 

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This was not all that complex to install but I know what you mean and are looking for. Adding any decent sub would require you to add an additional amp and that would require running a power line to the amp since there is no power you can tap off of in the rear that would support an amp. There isn't enough room where the OEM sub is to replace it with a larger one. Maybe someone else will come up with an idea but don't see any other way.
So I can't tell from the picture where the stock subwoofer is located. Any idea if a Route 1 has an amp and is prewired for a sub but it was just left out for that trim? From a car audio perspective, I'm way out of my league, hoping this is as simple as plugging in a cheap sub.
 
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So I can't tell from the picture where the stock subwoofer is located. Any idea if a Route 1 has an amp and is prewired for a sub but it was just left out for that trim? From a car audio perspective, I'm way out of my league, hoping this is as simple as plugging in a cheap sub.
Hey Shawn, Sorry I may not have been clear but the B&O sub and amp is located behind the right rear quarter trim panel in the cargo area. Since you do not have the B&O sound system, there is no external amplifier or sub. In the 6 speaker system that you have, the amp for all the speakers is built into the ACM (Audio Control Module) which is located behind the center area of the instrument panel.

If you were to add a sub, you can still follow my instructions but you would need to pick up the audio input for the sub amp from the rear speaker outputs which would be a little more time consuming. You can do that one of two ways. Tap into the wires coming out of the ACM but that would involve quite a bit of work to take apart the instrument panel. The easier way would be to tap into the rear speaker wires in the wiring loom running down each side of the car. I would pull the drivers and passengers kick panels (that have the Mustang emblem on it) and get to the wires from there. The colored wires you need for the Left Rear speaker is Gray/Violet +, Brown/Green - and the Right Rear speaker is Green/Violet +, Gray -.

I guess to answer your question, no there isn't any simple way to just "add" the OEM sub. Even if you could, it certainly would not give you much in the way of low end bass since that was the whole purpose of me adding a better sub.
 

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Hey Shawn, Sorry I may not have been clear but the B&O sub and amp is located behind the right rear quarter trim panel in the cargo area. Since you do not have the B&O sound system, there is no external amplifier or sub. In the 6 speaker system that you have, the amp for all the speakers is built into the ACM (Audio Control Module) which is located behind the center area of the instrument panel.

If you were to add a sub, you can still follow my instructions but you would need to pick up the audio input for the sub amp from the rear speaker outputs which would be a little more time consuming. You can do that one of two ways. Tap into the wires coming out of the ACM but that would involve quite a bit of work to take apart the instrument panel. The easier way would be to tap into the rear speaker wires in the wiring loom running down each side of the car. I would pull the drivers and passengers kick panels (that have the Mustang emblem on it) and get to the wires from there. The colored wires you need for the Left Rear speaker is Gray/Violet +, Brown/Green - and the Right Rear speaker is Green/Violet +, Gray -.

I guess to answer your question, no there isn't any simple way to just "add" the OEM sub. Even if you could, it certainly would not give you much in the way of low end bass since that was the whole purpose of me adding a better sub.
Mark - thanks for the response. All those complex words and descriptions you just listed can be translated for me in the following manner: "there is a trip to Best Buy Car Audio in your future". ;-)
 

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this is awesome.

any recommendations for upgrades that are a step down in terms of complexity, like if i'm leasing/ford options... that are more plug and play?
I couldn't agree more!

I just want it to sound as good as the Harmon Kardon system in my Mini Cooper Clubman. No high-end subwoofer with its own amp—just a better quality/sounding sub that will not only fit perfectly, but be compatible with the stock amp (same Ohms) to swap out with the B&O sub that comes with the Mach-E.
 
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I couldn't agree more!

I just want it to sound as good as the Harmon Kardon system in my Mini Cooper Clubman. No high-end subwoofer with its own amp—just a better quality/sounding sub that will not only fit perfectly, but be compatible with the stock amp (same Ohms) to swap out with the B&O sub that comes with the Mach-E.
It would be nice if we could replace the OEM sub with a better one but there is absolutely no space in that area for anything else. Even if you could, the B&O amp sends very little power to the sub as it is so changing it out with another sub won't help much.

You mentioned the JL Audio sub/amp I used is a high end system and while it is a very good setup, it is far from high end and is actually on the inexpensive side for what you get. Spending $550 like I did for a good amp, sub and box is really a good deal. Yes you can purchase something for less but it certainly won't sound as good. If you want to go high end, JL has their ProWedge 12" sub in a box for $1400 then buy one of their high end mono amps for $1250. Total for that set up is $2650. That is what I call high end, and expensive. Unless you want to revamp the entire system and spend thousands of dollars, all it really needs to bring up the sound quality is a decent sub/amp and some tweaking of the EQ.
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