Adding a real subwoofer w/amp to your Mach-E

[Zman1750]

Personally I think it likely would be fine. As a backup, find the location of the related fuse in case you have an aggressive listening day and need to do a replacement. Be prepared!

Thanks. Since the HS10 comes equipped with a 15A fuse, and the 12v power outlet itself has a 20A fuse backing it, wouldn’t that mean it’d blow the fuse on the HS10 before it’d hit the 12V power outlet one?

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[Mach-Jay]

Thanks. Since the HS10 comes equipped with a 15A fuse, and the 12v power outlet itself has a 20A fuse backing it, wouldn’t that mean it’d blow the fuse on the HS10 before it’d hit the 12V power outlet one?

Yes, that is accurate. Also, I ran the 400 watt JL Audio off of that circuit for 5 months - pretty loud at times, with zero issues.

 

[cl0udmaster]

Thank you so much for this walkthrough. I was able to follow it successfully and the 12 inch sounds so good!

 

[Zman1750]

Got the Kicker HS10 wired today using info from this thread, wired to the 12V outlet for power. It was pretty straightforward and I’m definitely happy with the sound compared to the stock sub. The auto power off and on set to DC on the sub appears to be working as expected so far, but I’ll report back if I notice any issues.

With only the right input available, I left the left input wire untouched and all is working as I’d expect.The hardest part of the install was getting the right rear panel off enough to tap into the existing wires. For anyone reading, you have to take out the plastic panel that sits over the hatch latch to get the rear right panel off enough, as it sits over it, but you don’t need to remove or pull off any of the weather stripping.

In order to get the rear right panel off after removing the latch panel, I started in the upper corner closest to the right rear of the vehicle. The first little clip is the hardest to get off with force, but after that it’s just slowly popping them off with your hand. Find the diagrams posted by others in this thread. Thanks for the info and help everyone.

 

[markboris]

Got the Kicker HS10 wired today using info from this thread, wired to the 12V outlet for power. It was pretty straightforward and I’m definitely happy with the sound compared to the stock sub. The auto power off and on set to DC on the sub appears to be working as expected so far, but I’ll report back if I notice any issues.

With only the right input available, I left the left input wire untouched and all is working as I’d expect.The hardest part of the install was getting the right rear panel off enough to tap into the existing wires. For anyone reading, you have to take out the plastic panel that sits over the hatch latch to get the rear right panel off enough, as it sits over it, but you don’t need to remove or pull off any of the weather stripping.

In order to get the rear right panel off after removing the latch panel, I started in the upper corner closest to the right rear of the vehicle. The first little clip is the hardest to get off with force, but after that it’s just slowly popping them off with your hand. Find the diagrams posted by others in this thread. Thanks for the info and help everyone.

Zach, thanks for explaining how to take off the load trim panel. I did post photos from the Ford repair manual on how to do it but it was 7 pages into this thread. You don't have to do everything they say to do as the instructions are for removing it, not pulling it back to get to wires like we want to do. I will add a link to the first post with this. #175

 

[Garbanzo]

I have a great success story thanks to Mark Boris and the information he posted. I am 69 yo and have always had a tech install amp and speakers. I read Mark’s input and was going to give it a go and started to chicken out. I went to Best Buy to see what they would charge and they wouldn’t even touch it as they said it is electric and a potential liability. So, I took that as a challenge, went back to Mark’s post, followed it verbatim with the exception of the bass volume control location. While it was a challenge, it came out great. I am very proud of myself and couldn’t have done it without people on this forum. So, thank you Mark and to all the others with questions helping me sort it though.

 

[markboris]

I have a great success story thanks to Mark Boris and the information he posted. I am 69 yo and have always had a tech install amp and speakers. I read Mark’s input and was going to give it a go and started to chicken out. I went to Best Buy to see what they would charge and they wouldn’t even touch it as they said it is electric and a potential liability. So, I took that as a challenge, went back to Mark’s post, followed it verbatim with the exception of the bass volume control location. While it was a challenge, it came out great. I am very proud of myself and couldn’t have done it without people on this forum. So, thank you Mark and to all the others with questions helping me sort it though.

Hi Gary, glad you tackled it and it was a success. It is a bit of a challenge but mainly takes time and patience. So many variables with everyone here installing subs of various types but the basics are here. Enjoy your system....

 

[Garbanzo]

Hi Gary, glad you tackled it and it was a success. It is a bit of a challenge but mainly takes time and patience. So many variables with everyone here so installed a sub of various types and installs but the basics are here. Enjoy your system....

Hi Mark,

The highlight was 5 neighbor girls came out on the street and were dancing on the sidewalk after I fired it up. Very fun. The part I thought would be difficult took less than 30 seconds and that was getting through the firewall. I took a 14awg solid copper wire and followed the existing loom and low and behold, it gently went through on the first try. Thank you again for your help and expertise.

 

[mkhuffman]

Hi Mark,

The highlight was 5 neighbor girls came out on the street and were dancing on the sidewalk after I fired it up. Very fun. The part I thought would be difficult took less than 30 seconds and that was getting through the firewall. I took a 14awg solid copper wire and followed the existing loom and low and behold, it gently went through on the first try. Thank you again for your help and expertise.

We expect video of girls dancing in the street. Seriously.

 

[Garbanzo]

We expect video of girls dancing in the street. Seriously.

That costs a little extra lol

 

[SFC]

@markboris - do you happen to know what the lug size is on the terminal where you attached the power wire up front? I need to grab some more ring terminals and want to make sure I grab the right size.

 

[markboris]

@markboris - do you happen to know what the lug size is on the terminal where you attached the power wire up front? I need to grab some more ring terminals and want to make sure I grab the right size.

I don't know the exact size but it is not large at all. I'm not able to get my measuring caliper in that small area but as long as you get a ring terminal that will fit a 1/4" drill bit, you are fine. Bring one with you to make sure it fits through the hole in the terminal. The terminal is smaller than 1/4" though.

I grabbed a quick photo so you can see it if that helps.

 

[Zman1750]

Hey folks. I installed the Kicker HS10 and wanted to share some settings tweaks after my own testing and tweaks to personal preference. I’ll caveat by saying that I listen to a very wide variety of music. There were settings that I felt sounded good for rap and EDM, but sounded terrible in rock or country. Where I landed feels like it gives a nice even punch without overpowering in any genre. My goal was to make the bass blend in but still provide a nice kick when appropriate.

X-Over frequency: just under the midpoint, so roughly 80hz
Gain: ~25% (touchiest setting)
Bass Boost: 0
Tone settings in the car:
Treble: +60%
Mid: +10%
Bass: +0 to +40% at most depending on genre. Most of the time right in the middle sounded best to me
Bass Knob: I’ve personally not connected it.
Hope this at least provides a starting point to those who chose to install the same sub.

 

[ElectrikPony]

Just curious would anyone be interested in an enclosure that fits a subwoofer in the stock location?

I need to gauge interest if the effort would be worth my effort.

 

[Mach1E]

Just curious would anyone be interested in an enclosure that fits a subwoofer in the stock location?

I need to gauge interest if the effort would be worth my effort.

I have the JL, so I wouldn’t. But I am curious as to what you could fit there. Stock location is free air and tiny.

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