CAL465

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Hey guys, If I want to replace the subwoofer. Can I just get the same size as the stock on too mount and connected to the existing mount and cables? I don't have any laying around so I'd like to pick up a good one. Same question for the other speakers as well. thank in advance.
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CAL465

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Actually I think the subwoofer and mount are one in the same.
 

CAL465

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I'm going through the threads now. Lots of helpful information. I should have done that before posting a question.
 

Mach1E

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Hey guys, If I want to replace the subwoofer. Can I just get the same size as the stock on too mount and connected to the existing mount and cables? I don't have any laying around so I'd like to pick up a good one. Same question for the other speakers as well. thank in advance.
No on just replacing the sub.

Itā€™s an oddball open air 5x7 sub. I donā€™t think an aftermarket option exists. And even if you could find one, it would sound terrible just hooking up to the stock amp.

As far as replacing the stock speakers. You can, but youā€™ll likely be disappointed if you donā€™t replace the stock amp as well.

Best bet to improve sound quality is add an aftermarket amp and sub box like everyone else on this thread did.
 
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markboris

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So, a follow up to this earlier post last week #366 . After driving for almost 1000 miles, I havenā€™t had any issues with the little JL amp and really like the added mid bass it produces out of the door speakers. I have several new rattles in the doors I never heard before! Only thing I did was bring the midrange on the EQ down one to 0. I was only doing this as a test but might leave it in this way.
 
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rascalif

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Hello oh Masters of Mach E Wiring, I hope you can help. I followed the instructions here as follows:

1. Tapped into the Green/Violet and Gray wires of the Right Rear Speaker.
2. Connected those wires to the high level speaker inputs of the sub (in this case a Rockville SS8P).
2. Tapped into the Power Outlet wiring in the rear.
3. Connected the sub to the power wires and turned on Auto Power.

Sub powers up nicely and sounds great when I turned on the radio. However the power LED on the sub stays on long after the radio is turned off. I know that the Auto Power works because when I disconnect the speaker inputs the power LED immediately turns off. So this is telling me that there is still some sort of signal coming through the speaker wires, even when everything is turned off.

Please help! I don't want to drain my battery because of the sub. An alternative would also be to find a switched power supply, but that rear outlet is so dang convenient. TIA!
 
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mkhuffman

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Hello oh Masters of Mach E Wiring, I hope you can help. I followed the instructions here as follows:

1. Tapped into the Green/Violet and Gray wires of the Right Rear Speaker.
2. Connected those wires to the high level speaker inputs of the sub (in this case a Rockville SS8P).
2. Tapped into the Power Outlet wiring in the rear.
3. Connected the sub to the power wires.

Sub powers up nicely and sounds great when I turned on the radio. However the power LED on the sub stays on long after the radio is turned off. I know that the Auto Power works because when I disconnect the speaker inputs the power LED immediately turns off. So this is telling me that there is still some sort of signal coming through the speaker wires, even when everything is turned off.

Please help! I don't want to drain my battery because of the sub. An alternative would also be to find a switched power supply, but that rear outlet is so dang convenient. TIA!
I am pretty sure it is because the stock amp stays powered until the 12V shuts off (sending a signal to the sub), which is about 5 minutes or so after you shut off the car. You can tell it is still on because the USB outlets are still lighted in the front. Once those shit off, I am sure the sub will also. Check it after 5 minutes to confirm.
 

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I am pretty sure it is because the stock amp stays powered until the 12V shuts off (sending a signal to the sub), which is about 5 minutes or so after you shut off the car. You can tell it is still on because the USB outlets are still lighted in the front. Once those shit off, I am sure the sub will also. Check it after 5 minutes to confirm.
That was it, thanks! I guess patience is not one of my virtues.

This forum rocks!
 
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azerik

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I assume those that are putting subs in the trunk are rasing the floor to itā€™s higher setting?
Iā€™m still trying to find a very ā€˜weakā€™ 10 inch sub to wire into the factory woofer wires.
 
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I assume those that are putting subs in the trunk are rasing the floor to itā€™s higher setting?
Iā€™m still trying to find a very ā€˜weakā€™ 10 inch sub to wire into the factory woofer wires.
It's about half and half. Most people installing an 8" or 10" sub can leave the floor in the lower position. Anyone installing a larger sub usually has to raise it to the upper position.
 

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I assume those that are putting subs in the trunk are rasing the floor to itā€™s higher setting?
Iā€™m still trying to find a very ā€˜weakā€™ 10 inch sub to wire into the factory woofer wires.
The Rockville is less than 3" deep.
 

volyblmn

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Followed the "Super Easy" method using a Rockville RW10CA subwoofer, which almost perfectly fits the charger storage compartment. 10" woofer really hits.
What page can this "super easy" method be found?
 

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What page can this "super easy" method be found?
He is probably referring to getting power from the outlet in the rear instead of running a power line from the battery in the frunk.
 

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He is probably referring to getting power from the outlet in the rear instead of running a power line from the battery in the frunk.
Yep. We should refer to it as "Jay's Way" ;-) Still going strong! I even turned the volume way up (on the system and the sub) for a while with no issue whatsoever.
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