Mach-Jay

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Hi Jay, I answered your question much earlier in this thread. Post: #27
You are a legend! I just tried splicing in to the left rear and my multi-meter is reading about 12V. Which wire do you think is wrong here? (hopefully my image is high enough quality to tell)

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markboris

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You are a legend! I just tried splicing in to the left rear and my multi-meter is reading about 12V. Which wire do you think is wrong here? (hopefully my image is high enough quality to tell)

Ford Mustang Mach-E Adding a decent subwoofer/amp to your Mach-E IMG_4746.JPG
Jay, that wire on the right looks like it is Violet/Gray not Gray/Violet. In case you were not aware, the first color listed (Gray) is the main color of the wire and the second color listed (Violet) is the thin stripe. So look for a Gray wire with a Violet stripe.
 
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markboris

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any idea if a 15" sub can fit underneath the cargo floor as well?
No. You would have to raise the floor up higher than the highest position now and support it to make one fit. Do you already have a 15" and you want to use it? I ask because a 10" is more than enough in that car without improving the speakers and amp that is in there now. Going with a 12" really makes it sweet. Deeper bass mainly as the output on both is similar.
 

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got it - i ask because i'm coming from having two 12's over the past decade, but maybe it's time to scale it back. thanks for the info!
 


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got it - i ask because i'm coming from having two 12's over the past decade, but maybe it's time to scale it back. thanks for the info!
I had a pair of 12s in high school. But speakers have gotten waaaaay better.

I would say the single JL ported 10 sounds better and may even be louder than my dual 12s (Orion xtr12 from the early 90s).

At the very least it easily overpowers the stock stereo speakers. I have it turned way down.
 

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This write up was fantastic. I want to share a slightly faster/easier “budget” version that I just did. I installed an 8” Kicker HS8 in the same spot, but since it only has a 150W amp I was able to tap into the 12V outlet feed in the hatch next to the stock premium sub (the amp comes with 14 AWG wire and a 10 amp fuse, well within the rated power of that outlet). This saved me from having to take apart the frunk and run power all the way to the 12V battery. $315 total and 2 hours to install. Would have been faster if I had instructions on removing the panels in the trunk. I left the stock sub and outlet connected also, so easy to revert to factory if I ever sell the car.

The 10” JL audio mentioned in this threads original post is definitely a higher quality way to go, but this vastly improved the stock B&O system and was super fast and easy to do.

055520B7-5007-44A1-8E43-9D119DFAE01F.jpeg
 

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This write up was fantastic. I want to share a slightly faster/easier “budget” version that I just did. I installed an 8” Kicker HS8 in the same spot, but since it only has a 150W amp I was able to tap into the 12V outlet feed in the hatch next to the stock premium sub (the amp comes with 14 AWG wire and a 10 amp fuse, well within the rated power of that outlet). This saved me from having to take apart the frunk and run power all the way to the 12V battery. $315 total and 2 hours to install. Would have been faster if I had instructions on removing the panels in the trunk. I left the stock sub and outlet connected also, so easy to revert to factory if I ever sell the car.

The 10” JL audio mentioned in this threads original post is definitely a higher quality way to go, but this vastly improved the stock B&O system and was super fast and easy to do.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Adding a decent subwoofer/amp to your Mach-E 055520B7-5007-44A1-8E43-9D119DFAE01F
I was initially thinking of doing the JL that Mark recommended, but we are also planning a Kicker HS10 for my son's Mazda hatchback. This unit would fit under the Mach E floor in its lowered position. Mark, any sense of the sound quality of this unit in a Mach E? Also is there any issue with the lowered floor plus a Ford cargo mat above it?
 

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I was initially thinking of doing the JL that Mark recommended, but we are also planning a Kicker HS10 for my son's Mazda hatchback. This unit would fit under the Mach E floor in its lowered position. Mark, any sense of the sound quality of this unit in a Mach E? Also is there any issue with the lowered floor plus a Ford cargo mat above it?
Thats the other reason I went with the kicker. Floor stays in the lower position just fine. I definitely would prefer the JL audio if I was willing to spend the extra effort on install, but I’m happy with the quality of the kicker.
 

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Great post. Love the idea of tapping into the 12v outlet and would love to hear your impressions of the sound quality. Any idea if the hs10 would also fit?
 

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does anybody know where the JL10 can be found? seems like they're out of stock most places nowadays.
 

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Great post. Love the idea of tapping into the 12v outlet and would love to hear your impressions of the sound quality. Any idea if the hs10 would also fit?
I've been using the cigarette lighter for a couple weeks. The only issue is when you turn the car on you hear a pop. It doesn't bother me enough to make the effort to get to the 12v battery
 

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Great post. Love the idea of tapping into the 12v outlet and would love to hear your impressions of the sound quality. Any idea if the hs10 would also fit?
The 10” fits but the amp rating slightly exceeds the rating of the 12V outlet, which is why I decided to stick with the 8”. May be fine if you don’t crank the volume, but there’s a chance you blow the fuse.
 
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markboris

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I was initially thinking of doing the JL that Mark recommended, but we are also planning a Kicker HS10 for my son's Mazda hatchback. This unit would fit under the Mach E floor in its lowered position. Mark, any sense of the sound quality of this unit in a Mach E? Also is there any issue with the lowered floor plus a Ford cargo mat above it?
Alan, I have never used that Kicker sub but I know others that have and like it. Anything is better than the OEM sub which isn't really a sub.

It fits but the amp rating slightly exceeds the rating of the 12V outlet. May be fine if you don’t crank the volume, but there’s a chance you blow the fuse.
This is the issue using the 12v outlet, that the amp may pull more current than the circuit is rated for and the fuse will blow. If it is a small enough amp it should not be a problem. There are a few others on here that have done the same thing. You can't do this with a larger amp like the one in the JL 10" I recommended as it pulls 30 amps.

does anybody know where the JL10 can be found? seems like they're out of stock most places nowadays.
They do seem to be out of stock quite often. When I got my Premium in February of 2021 I got it at Crutchfield, then when I got my GT in November of 2021 I got it at a nearby audio shop. You just have to keep checking back with all the dealers and online places. They are making them but very slowly (chip issues) and they trickle in.
 

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Alan, I have never used that Kicker sub but I know others that have and like it. Anything is better than the OEM sub which isn't really a sub.


This is the issue using the 12v outlet, that the amp may pull more current than the circuit is rated for and the fuse will blow. If it is a small enough amp it should not be a problem. There are a few others on here that have done the same thing. You can't do this with a larger amp like the one in the JL 10" I recommended as it pulls 30 amps.


They do seem to be out of stock quite often. When I got my Premium in February of 2021 I got it at Crutchfield, then when I got my GT in November of 2021 I got it at a nearby audio shop. You just have to keep checking back with all the dealers and online places. They are making them but very slowly (chip issues) and they trickle in.
Many thanks, Mark! Would the lowered floor with a Ford mat on top have any dampening effect?
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