Doesn't matter for left or right, just +/-.
I am not sure I understand the question but there is no line level analog outputs to tap into. You tap into the speaker outputs. I chose the front speaker wires for mine.
Hey Robert, glad you got your system in and working. While it is a PITA to run a wire from the LVB to the rear cargo area, I didn't find it much worse than many other cars I have done recently. My GT500 wasn't that easy either. Where the battery is located, in order to access it to run a wire to the rear had to remove the right front wheel and inner finder liner to penetrate the firewall to get to the interior. There is always a challenge and I seem to get the more difficult ones.Just finished my install, thanks for the help!
One thing I will say, is that I could have easily went with the 12V outlet if I had known the kick panels would suck so bad. The frunk release got in the way, as well as the battery being more difficult to access than let on. 20 amps from the 12v by the sub is quite a bit of juice. But I’m old school, back from when every install “needed” 0 gauge lol. Seriously, my 500w peak amp will probably need to get struck by lightning to hit 20amps. Anyway, I wasted my time laying 10gauge and it was a PITA.
Had some stuff left over from my model 3 trunk hole. A shallow sub box from Amazon, a kicker 10 inch, an LC2i, and a “500 W” amp.
I used the 12v for a remote switch even though the LC2i has audio sensing. Might as well, you know the 12v turns off after a few minutes. And the weirdest thing with my model 3, is “sentry mode” would somehow trigger my amplifier to sense a signal and turn on all night long. I didn’t know if the Mach-e would do the same thing.
QUESTIONS:
1. Anyone notice that the OEM subwoofer feed tapers off prematurely at about 60Hz? It’s either crossed over to protect the OEM sub, OR the car just eats bass at that frequency. Hell, I even think the OEM sub might do a pretty good job, the bass just doesn’t make it to the driver. Not sure. Im even contemplating using bass boost… a no-no in my 30 years of car audio install.
2. my LC2i can compensate for rolloff of bass as the volume increases. It seems as if I don’t need this, as the B&O seems to boost bass output as the volume increases as usual.
Final Note: the B&O (except bass) is excellent. I’m comparing this to some pretty shitty OEM systems, but I’ve had some “decent” systems like the B&O in an Audi A3 and Fender in a Golf. I had to do some serious mods in my model 3…. The Standard Range model had the tweeters actually installed, but NOT WIRED. BUT, after customizing some crossovers and tapping in to the dash midrange speakers, I ended up with a sweet system. My point is that I do not think you will be able to gut the Mach-e system and replace it with something better.(Trust me, I’ve spent thousand of dollars on customs systems with kickpanels, 3 ways, 12” image dynamics with plexiglass windows and JLaudio amps). It’s all about tuning, and B&O did a good job on the Mach-e. You just have to get some bass in there.
PS with this setup, cargo floor needs to be in the higher position,but I added some connectors to easily remove the whole thing if I need to drop the floor.
I noticed the stock subwoofer does put out some good, deep bass but it is over powered by the front speakers. I had my fronts turned down to greatly favor the rear speakers and I can hear the bass really well. It sounds quite good. But I agree with everyone else that bass volume is not there especially if you balance the fade near the middle of the car.
Now that you mention it, the fronts are much louder than the rears. I usually I like it that way, but its a good idea that fading to the back would make that OEM sub work a little harder.
Lol. Ive been lucky. All my cars since 2008 have had the battery in the back. Altima Hybrid, A3 e-Tron, Prius and Pacifica PHEV. My Jetta sportwagen had the fender sub in the back, and I cant remember if I kept the sub or tapped off of that subs 12 V and even though the Model 3's LVB was in the front, there was a random 12V access point under the rear seat.
I havent had the guts to try my claim out.. maybe someday. But that power wedge will probably never draw even 20A in real world application. Unless you plan on bumping some sweet 40Hz test tones as you cruise down the street. I did one test a while ago with my sub playing electronica music, the woofer was doing some serious excursion and I was around 10A of draw. Now peak load? I dont know.
There was a lot of debate in another thread about this.
Of course. The point is you can't hear the stock subwoofer very well if the fade is even between front and back. It's not that the stock sub can't go low, it just lacks volume.
