rascalif

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Yep. We should refer to it as "Jay's Way" ;-) Still going strong! I even turned the volume way up (on the system and the sub) for a while with no issue whatsoever.
Correct, your approach is still the best way to add a sub to a Mach E. Super easy, barely an inconvenience!
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How easy is it to remove and re-install the carpet from the trunk area to add the sound-deadening material? Does it just come up after removing trim pieces or is it glued in place?
 
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How easy is it to remove and re-install the carpet from the trunk area to add the sound-deadening material? Does it just come up after removing trim pieces or is it glued in place?
Comes right up. Not glued in place.
 

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Comes right up. Not glued in place.
Do you know if I can use the JL brand RJ11 remote bass knob on a different brand amp/sub that also has an RJ11 output for the remote control?
 

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Maybe? Impossible to know without know what “different brand” means. Would probably have to try it out unfortunately.

Googled for you:

https://boomspeaker.com/will-any-bass-knob-work-with-any-amp/
Thank you! I used that to branch off and do a bit more research. The Rockville sub uses an RJ12 port for it's remote control. The JL remote that I was considering is RJ11 which if I'm reading it correct, will work together but not if it was the other way around. It's cheap enough that I'll order and try it out to test.
 

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Some notes on the install:
  • I swapped the fuse on the sub from a 30A to a 20A to match the fuse rating of the 12v outlet. I’m hoping this will protect the outlet fuse in case of issues
I am pretty sure the 12v turns off eventually - I agree that it does not shut off right away. When I get in the car and turn it on after a certain amount of time, I hear a small "pop" of the sub turning on
Did you add an additional in-line fuse between the 12v outlet and amp like a traditional install or just relying on the lower amperage fuse on the amp and stock fuse for the 12v?
 

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Did you add an additional in-line fuse between the 12v outlet and amp like a traditional install or just relying on the lower amperage fuse on the amp and stock fuse for the 12v?
I did not add an additional inline fuse. My install is also working great with no issues, though I don’t have a bass knob installed and I keep sub power around 35-40% and bass at the mid point in the onscreen EQ.
 

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Did you add an additional in-line fuse between the 12v outlet and amp like a traditional install or just relying on the lower amperage fuse on the amp and stock fuse for the 12v?
No fuse changes or adds. It's a good idea though, esp if you are going to compete in one of those bass competitions that 18 year olds do. ;-)
 

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I've been using the cigarette lighter for a couple weeks. The only issue is when you turn the car on you hear a pop. It doesn't bother me enough to make the effort to get to the 12v battery
Which wire was the positive on the 12v? The violet/white or the black/green?

Also @markboris - I’ve read green/violet is the positive and grey is the negative but i can’t tell if that’s for the door speakers or the OE sub. The colors in the plug look green and black to me. I would think black would be the negative but i’ve been wrong about simpler things before. If black is negative, do I still need to flip the phase switch or would i just wire it backwards and leave the phase alone?
 
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Which wire was the positive on the 12v? The violet/white or the black/green?

Also @markboris - I’ve read green/violet is the positive and grey is the negative but i can’t tell if that’s for the door speakers or the OE sub. The colors in the plug look green and black to me. I would think black would be the negative but i’ve been wrong about simpler things before. If black is negative, do I still need to flip the phase switch or would i just wire it backwards and leave the phase alone?
Hi Nathan, for the rear 12V power point, violet/brown is positive and black/green is negative.

You want to use the OEM sub wiring in which green/violet is positive and gray is negative. These are the wires coming from the B&O amp going to the sub, NOT the wires coming out of the sub enclosure which are different colors. They change colors at the plug that mounts to the sub enclosure.

As far as the phase switch, I would leave it at 0˚. There has been some confusion about this and have found it sometimes depends on particular sub used but I would generally leave it at 0˚. I won't get into a huge tech explanation on this but basically, when your new sub is wired properly from the OEM sub and set to 0˚, you may have a slight lack of mid-bass because it can interfere with the door speakers. You shouldn't be too concerned about this since you are adding the sub for bass, not mid-bass. You can always turn up the bass EQ in the Sync system and that will produce more mid-bass from the door speakers. If you switch the phase on your sub to 180˚, you will notice a bump in mid-bass since the sub is no longer interfering with the door speakers however, the deep bass will be less. This is why some say they have more bass output when the phase switch is set to 180˚ but what they are really hearing is more mid-bass. This is very easy to see on my audio spectrum analyzer when I change the phase switch on my JL sub.
 

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Which wire was the positive on the 12v? The violet/white or the black/green?

Also @markboris - I’ve read green/violet is the positive and grey is the negative but i can’t tell if that’s for the door speakers or the OE sub. The colors in the plug look green and black to me. I would think black would be the negative but i’ve been wrong about simpler things before. If black is negative, do I still need to flip the phase switch or would i just wire it backwards and leave the phase alone?
I love how Mark knows the colors! That said, I personally rely on a voltage meter, which everyone should own! Cheap peace of mind.
 
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markboris

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I love how Mark knows the colors! That said, I personally rely on a voltage meter, which everyone should own! Cheap peace of mind.
It's not like I know these colors off the top of my head. I look at the wiring diagrams but yes I agree, I do use my volt meter to make sure.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Adding a decent subwoofer/amp to your Mach-E Screenshot 2023-03-27 at 9.30.31 AM


Screenshot 2023-03-27 at 9.33.01 AM.jpg
 

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Hi Nathan, for the rear 12V power point, violet/brown is positive and black/green is negative.

You want to use the OEM sub wiring in which green/violet is positive and gray is negative. These are the wires coming from the B&O amp going to the sub, NOT the wires coming out of the sub enclosure which are different colors. They change colors at the plug that mounts to the sub enclosure.
I love how Mark knows the colors! That said, I personally rely on a voltage meter, which everyone should own! Cheap peace of mind.
Thank you both! Multimeter is one of the things coming in my amazon order today.
 

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Update: sub installed and working!
I got the Rockville RW10CA and wired it to the 12v in the back and dropped the fuse in the amp from 25 to 20 to match.

Install was very simple. My only hiccup was my posi-taps didn’t pierce the 12v wires at first, otherwise easy process.

Tomorrow the JL bass knob comes, I’ll report back whether that works or not.
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