Adding an inside Liftgate Power Switch

[JohnFoxeSheets]

The only way to trigger the Frunk beside using the main screen is the button inside the frunk. That button connects to the Generic Function Module (GFM) behind the center screen (slightly below it). It’s a real pain in the ass to get to. Moreover, if you use that button to pop the frunk, it will display an alert on the IPC letting you know that button was used and to check the frunk to make sure nobody was stuck in there.
I’ll dig up a wiring diagram shortly.

Thanks!

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[Rickless]

what sort of wisdom are you seeking?

Hi Pat - In short (kind of):

1. Do you have a link to the type of pins did you used to connect the wires to the respective harnesses?
2. What length of wire was required to connect the headlight switch to the Lift Gate Module?
3. How did you run the wire from the cabin into the lift gate?
4. Do the interior panels of the rear lift gate simply snap on and off, or is it more complex?

Thank you!

 

[2021mustangdan]

Why add a switch when it is on the Ford Pass app, key fob as well as center screen? Would think doing changes to wiring would affect warranty as well.

 

[i8iridium]

Hi Pat - In short (kind of):

1. Do you have a link to the type of pins did you used to connect the wires to the respective harnesses?
2. What length of wire was required to connect the headlight switch to the Lift Gate Module?
3. How did you run the wire from the cabin into the lift gate?
4. Do the interior panels of the rear lift gate simply snap on and off, or is it more complex?

Thank you!

1. Unfortunately, I don't know the spec of the particular pin. I had several connectors from a previous project that used the same pins. It's a female pin. It came out of the connector with part number WPT-1401. I'd have to buy another subscription for wiring diagrams to get specific pin part numbers.
2. I don't know the specific length. I do a lot of wiring projects, so i have a large bench stock of assorted wiring. It can be any small gauge wiring. There's hardly any current being carried across this wire.
3. I ran it down the driver side of the vehicle, following the existing wiring tray under the kick plates, up the C pillar into the headliner, then followed the rubber wire channel from the car body into the hatch.
4. I won't say they "simply" snap off. lol They do snap off, the clips are very strong, so you have to be careful.

I'm sorry I couldn't be really detailed. I'm not one for creating videos while I work, so most of this is an afterthought.

 

[i8iridium]

Why add a switch when it is on the Ford Pass app, key fob as well as center screen? Would think doing changes to wiring would affect warranty as well.

Some folks really like to customize their vehicles to fit their needs. For me, it's way easier to just push a button on the dash, then flip through two or three menus or pull out my phone.

As far as changing the Frunk wiring, I'm not real interested in that, but I can see value for other folks depending on their circumstance.

Speaking of Frunk wiring, @JohnFoxeSheets I've attached the wiring diagram I have for that.

 

[JohnFoxeSheets]

Some folks really like to customize their vehicles to fit their needs. For me, it's way easier to just push a button on the dash, then flip through two or three menus or pull out my phone.

As far as changing the Frunk wiring, I'm not real interested in that, but I can see value for other folks depending on their circumstance.

Speaking of Frunk wiring, @JohnFoxeSheets I've attached the wiring diagram I have for that.

Thank you very much, Pat! I really appreciate it.

EDIT: based on the wiring diagram, it would appear that if if BCM C2280E-15 & -22 are each pulled to ground (using a momentary NO DPST switch), that should activate the Frunk Release Relays which in turn should activate the Frunk Latch. Does that sound right to you? I'm not accustomed to reading this type of schematic (and am rusty at any schematic!)... All that said, I'm not sure what the Frunk Release Relay Micro does...? Does it get the kiddy-stuck-in-Frunk-panic signal from the GFM?

Thanks

 

[i8iridium]

Thank you very much, Pat! I really appreciate it.

EDIT: based on the wiring diagram, it would appear that if if BCM C2280E-15 & -22 are each pulled to ground (using a momentary NO DPST switch), that should activate the Frunk Release Relays which in turn should activate the Frunk Latch. Does that sound right to you? I'm not accustomed to reading this type of schematic (and am rusty at any schematic!)... All that said, I'm not sure what the Frunk Release Relay Micro does...? Does it get the kiddy-stuck-in-Frunk-panic signal from the GFM?

Thanks

I'm not sure if it needs applied simultaneously or if it's a 1, 2 sort of thing because the release using the screen or PAAK is a two pull system.

Yes, i believe the GFM is what sends that signal over the MS CAN network to the IPC.

 

[JohnFoxeSheets]

I'm not sure if it needs applied simultaneously or if it's a 1, 2 sort of thing because the release using the screen or PAAK is a two pull system.

Yes, i believe the GFM is what sends that signal over the MS CAN network to the IPC.

Good point about the potential 1 - 2 activation. I'll try to do some tests soon.

I just need to figure out where the heck I can take my car to work in the passenger foot well!

The driveway certainly isn't an option...

 

[krazieboy]

Found a bit of time today to get this done. I can confirm that Ford Explorer part # LB5T13D061NB does work perfectly fine.

Going to add in the pix i took incase it helps anyone else out. I had some issues figuring out how to run the cable at first until i took off mutiple panels.

Thanks markboris and i8iridium for figuring all this out =)

I couldn't find the right terminal pin at the store, so i followed @coachluke advice and just shoved the cable into Pin 12 and taped it down to prevent it from moving. I still plan to try and find the right pin connector.

Popping the clips off is pretty easy. Use a small flat head screwdriver.

I tapped into the same brown cable like everyone else did. Just be really careful if you are using a blade to get the cover open.

I ran the cable through the bottom of the center console area. Lots of room there. I kept the cable under the carpet and then up the side towards the Headlight switch.

 

[krazieboy]

And these do not fit!!

 

[KevinS]

And these do not fit!!

I had some wire from when I was mucking with Arduino programming left over. Looks like this:

This end has an inner sleeve that works great:

I then removed the outer piece (it has a "pull-tab-ish" part you remove and it slides off:

But don't do what I did and accidently cut the brown wire when trying to use a 3-way tap like this. It sliced through the wire like butter even though it was supposed to be the correct size:

But I was able to splice it back together in a pretty ugly way. I had some serious butt-puckering going on at this point:

And fortunately it's now working just fine. I may go back later and try to clean up and wrap the wiring hack I did at the wiring harness, but this was enough for one evening.

 

[JohnFoxeSheets]

Found a bit of time today to get this done. I can confirm that Ford Explorer part # LB5T13D061NB does work perfectly fine.

Going to add in the pix i took incase it helps anyone else out. I had some issues figuring out how to run the cable at first until i took off mutiple panels.

Thanks markboris and i8iridium for figuring all this out =)

I couldn't find the right terminal pin at the store, so i followed @coachluke advice and just shoved the cable into Pin 12 and taped it down to prevent it from moving. I still plan to try and find the right pin connector.

Popping the clips off is pretty easy. Use a small flat head screwdriver.

I tapped into the same brown cable like everyone else did. Just be really careful if you are using a blade to get the cover open.

I ran the cable through the bottom of the center console area. Lots of room there. I kept the cable under the carpet and then up the side towards the Headlight switch.

So bye bye Max Defrost hard button since it's already on the center display. Nice!!

 

[Kamuelaflyer]

Why add a switch when it is on the Ford Pass app, key fob as well as center screen? Would think doing changes to wiring would affect warranty as well.

I don't see the need for an interior button for the liftgate at all. I'll use the main screen, the button below the liftgate, or kick the car in the rear end. But apparently, a fair number of people do see a need. All the more power to them.

 

[krazieboy]

I had some wire from when I was mucking with Arduino programming left over. Looks like this:

This end has an inner sleeve that works great:

I then removed the outer piece (it has a "pull-tab-ish" part you remove and it slides off:



But don't do what I did and accidently cut the brown wire when trying to use a 3-way tap like this. It sliced through the wire like butter even though it was supposed to be the correct size:



But I was able to splice it back together in a pretty ugly way. I had some serious butt-puckering going on at this point:



And fortunately it's now working just fine. I may go back later and try to clean up and wrap the wiring hack I did at the wiring harness, but this was enough for one evening.

hmm.. i gotta dig though the ewaste at work and see if i can any good conects like that to use. didn't even think about pcs.

how did you wire the cable to the passeger side? did you go a similar route?

 

[KevinS]

how did you wire the cable to the passeger side? did you go a similar route?

I snaked behind the center console and then behind the dash under the steering wheel to the switch. It didn't occur to me to snake it under the carpet.

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