B&O sound system does not sound all that fantabulous - am I missing any setting

Guss-E 2021

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I also use a Dragonfly USB DAC between the iPhone and the sound system. It helps thins out. I’m not inclined to start changing out speakers as it is a car and I don’t really care that much. It’s a different story with my home audio. But try a USB DAC. I also don’t use surround sound as a lot of what I listen to what mastered in stereo. Surround muddies things up IMO.

In the end, it comes down to what you’re willing to put up with in car audio. For me it’s not that important.
I like the DAC suggestion. Thanks @Fsisung !
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Fsisung

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I like the DAC suggestion. Thanks @Fsisung !
My pleasure! I just make it the best I can without diving into replacing things. I don’t spend enough time in the car to care. As long as it’s clean, there’s good separation, and it isn’t tinny sounding, I’m OK!
 

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I’m not too impressed with it either. However, if you set the fade to a bit more in back and bring the bass & treble up it helps.
Yes, set the fade toward back; makes a big difference.
 

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I also use a Dragonfly USB DAC between the iPhone and the sound system. It helps thins out. I’m not inclined to start changing out speakers as it is a car and I don’t really care that much. It’s a different story with my home audio. But try a USB DAC. I also don’t use surround sound as a lot of what I listen to what mastered in stereo. Surround muddies things up IMO.

In the end, it comes down to what you’re willing to put up with in car audio. For me it’s not that important.
Would you please give us a summary or description of just what a DAC is and its function in a Mach e? Thanks.
 

MyLittlePony2022

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I have started to change out the speakers, slowly since it is a learning curve (custom fit) and I can only do so much during my time off on the weekend. I installed Infinity Kappa components. My first pass only got the right front door. I got to hear the difference between the factory B&O and the Infinity speakers. The B&O sounds good. I will caveat it that the OEM DSP is tuned to the OEM speakers. I know that and I can hear it. I know and want to install an aftermarket amp with DSP to add more power, fix the factory DSP and tune the system. With that amp and DSP tuning, I know I can get a better system and sound. However, that comes at cost of time and money.

Based on what I have heard, if you are going to replace the speakers, you need to get lucky and find speakers that match the OEM DSP settings. If you do not, they may not sound better than the OEM speakers. They will most likely be better but not sound better. The OEM speakers are not the best quality, looking at them. However, they are an OEM car speaker so that is to be expected. The rear mid has a small magnet and looks cheap. I am in the process of installing the rear left door but more customization is needed for the tweeter. When I am done, I will do a seperate thread with a write up and pictures. I will post the thread here too.
 


Fsisung

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Would you please give us a summary or description of just what a DAC is and its function in a Mach e? Thanks.
The term DAC means digital audio converter. Music is recorded in analogue. Music is stored in a digital format such as ALAC or mp3. However, in order for us to hear it, it needs to be converted back to analogue as that’s how we hear. Every electronic device that plays audio has a DAC: phones, computers, and so on. But the daily in DAC is cheap and tiny. Generally the bigger the DAC the better job it does converting to analogue. By attaching a USB DAC to your phone and connecting it via USB to your headphones, car, receiver… you are sending a much cleaner signal. So you get a better overall sound.

To me, using it in a car produces a better sound. But that also may be a placebo effect because I alway use a DAC when listening to music on my iPhone. I use a Dragonfly USB DAC for my phone. It’s small but very high quality. It’s around $250.

But in the end, sound quality is a very subjective thing. For instance, I run a flat EQ in order to appreciate the music how the artist intended it to be portrayed.My wife cranks the bass. Hope this helps!
 

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I was very surprised at how bad the B&O system sounded at first. But after changing from Surround to Stereo, moving fade way back (almost as far as you can), and pumping up some of the equalizer settings, now I'm actually pretty pleased with it. I've been playing Spotify via Carplay.

FWIW, out of the box the system sounds like everything is coming from the center dashboard speaker. It's pretty surprising just how bad it sounds at first. Furthermore, "Surround" seems to do the opposite of what you'd expect. For me it sounds anything but "surround".

I don't think I should have to move the Fade settings so far rearward just to get it to sound somewhat balanced across all the speakers, but it is what it is and thankfully it seemed to work for me,
 

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The best audio I've experienced comes from hardwiring through Apple Carplay and playing lossless/master quality tracks on Tidal.

I haven't tested a direct hardwired connection from phone to Sync, though
 

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The term DAC means digital audio converter. Music is recorded in analogue. Music is stored in a digital format such as ALAC or mp3. However, in order for us to hear it, it needs to be converted back to analogue as that’s how we hear. Every electronic device that plays audio has a DAC: phones, computers, and so on. But the daily in DAC is cheap and tiny. Generally the bigger the DAC the better job it does converting to analogue. By attaching a USB DAC to your phone and connecting it via USB to your headphones, car, receiver… you are sending a much cleaner signal. So you get a better overall sound.

To me, using it in a car produces a better sound. But that also may be a placebo effect because I alway use a DAC when listening to music on my iPhone. I use a Dragonfly USB DAC for my phone. It’s small but very high quality. It’s around $250.

But in the end, sound quality is a very subjective thing. For instance, I run a flat EQ in order to appreciate the music how the artist intended it to be portrayed.My wife cranks the bass. Hope this helps!
Thanks. That's most helpful.
 

Fsisung

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The best audio I've experienced comes from hardwiring through Apple Carplay and playing lossless/master quality tracks on Tidal.

I haven't tested a direct hardwired connection from phone to Sync, though
The problem is that, no matter how good the input, the output will suffer due to cheap components such as wires or speakers. So I do what I can on the front end ( Tidal, USB DAC, no Bluetooth). But that’s it. I’m not going to replace components. I’m not in the car enough for it to matter that much.
 

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The problem is that, no matter how good the input, the output will suffer due to cheap components such as wires or speakers. So I do what I can on the front end ( Tidal, USB DAC, no Bluetooth). But that’s it. I’m not going to replace components. I’m not in the car enough for it to matter that much.
I had a similar issue in my Focus RS - very lackluster sounding audio, no matter the source. I pulled the entire audio system, excluding the Sync 3 system. PAC Audio AmpPro right off the Sync unit, with Toslink right into a DSP which fed 2 amps. Speakers were all replaced with Morel Audio hardware. Best sounding system I've had to-date.
 

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Was the 'surround' button removed in 3.5.3.3? I think I'm, around there somewhere. Sync 4 say 539. No idea how that is, but long story short i don't have any sort of DSP settings in my sound settings. '21 Prem.
edit: once threatened with a master rest it showed up on the next key on.
 
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The term DAC means digital audio converter. Music is recorded in analogue. Music is stored in a digital format such as ALAC or mp3.
i don't know if it's a term of art in the sound world, but to engineers DAC = digital to analog converter and ADC = analog to digital converter.

sound is just one example of an analog signal that might need to be converted back and forth to/from digital.
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