Burned out wall receptacle and plug. ugh (JuiceBox 40)

Nemy

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So before everyone rushes out to buy Hubbell/Bryant, I've been using the Utilitech one from Lowes for the last 4 years and 150k miles. It's labeled industrial, cheap and readily available. If you search Tesla forums, they note the same thing: avoid Leviton from Home Depot but nobody seems to have any issue with Utilitech - something about how the (old) Leviton only had a small contact point with the prongs. Not sure about the revised one. Either way, as RWG noted, any outlet can fail if it's wired incorrectly or loose.
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Miav8r

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Thanks for all the feedback! Garvin G1949 ordered. Hubbell may be overkill and unnecessary but I know I don't have to worry about it being robust enough.
 

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So before everyone rushes out to buy Hubbell/Bryant, I've been using the Utilitech one from Lowes for the last 4 years and 150k miles. It's labeled industrial, cheap and readily available. If you search Tesla forums, they note the same thing: avoid Leviton from Home Depot but nobody seems to have any issue with Utilitech - something about how the (old) Leviton only had a small contact point with the prongs. Not sure about the revised one. Either way, as RWG noted, any outlet can fail if it's wired incorrectly or loose.
I wonder who makes those? Home Depot sells the same thing under a brand called “Elegrp”. Those are both store brands for Lowes and HD, respectively.
The only bad thing about store brands is they can change their source without notice.
Good to know they are a viable option.
 
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agoldman

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So before everyone rushes out to buy Hubbell/Bryant, I've been using the Utilitech one from Lowes for the last 4 years and 150k miles. It's labeled industrial, cheap and readily available. If you search Tesla forums, they note the same thing: avoid Leviton from Home Depot but nobody seems to have any issue with Utilitech - something about how the (old) Leviton only had a small contact point with the prongs. Not sure about the revised one. Either way, as RWG noted, any outlet can fail if it's wired incorrectly or loose.
That is the one that I also have put in from Lowes, until I move with the spare Hubbels. No issues so far.
 

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I just finished installing the Hubbell. Got it on Amazon for $99. Makes the Leviton looks like it’s anemic. The wire contact is superior and locks down at 74 in/lb. The Leviton called for 25 in/lb with poor wire contact. Perhaps the electrician cheaped out with the old Leviton model. Just grateful didn’t have a fire or ruin the JuiceBox.
 


Miav8r

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An update. Replaced my Legrand/Pass & Seymour outlet today with a Hubbell 9450A. Visually, the Hubbell is significantly more substantial. The terminals of the Legrand sandwich the wire strands between the screw head and a plate, as contrasted with the Hubbell which compresses the wire between two plates—much better connection. I was having no issues with my installation but only replaced it based on reading this thread. My surprise, however, was upon inspection, the neutral terminal of the original receptacle was charred. Clearly it was already compromised. Would it ever be a bigger issue? Glad I won’t find out.

041AEF0D-8DDD-416A-AB8D-516AE45D3EF5.jpeg
 

dfcliff

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pics of the plug and outlet

Ford Mustang Mach-E Burned out wall receptacle and plug. ugh (JuiceBox 40) 041AEF0D-8DDD-416A-AB8D-516AE45D3EF5
It's hard to tell from this angle, but it looks like the pin on the left has significant corrosion/pitting from arcing. I'm not an electrition (and didn't stay at a holiday inn), but we camp a lot at campgrounds that have loose-fitting 30 amp and 50 amp sockets. If the socket is loose and the plug doesn't have a solid connection, it does exactly this. The arcing causes extremely high temps that melt plugs, wires, and copper.

You are probably not doing yourself any favors by constantly plugging and unplugging the charger. Eventually, it loosens the connection on the outlet and will cause this.
 

Richard L.

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Glad you caught it early. It’s what you don’t see that’s the problem. The Leviton installed by my electrician had a complete meltdown at one of the hot legs. After researching these receptacles I learned that they are rated for 50 amps but not for continuous use. I was pulling 40 amps on mine for 5+ hours twice a week. I also suspect it wasn’t properly torqued. I feel much more confident with Hubbell construction and torque requirements.
 

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An update. Replaced my Legrand/Pass & Seymour outlet today with a Hubbell 9450A. Visually, the Hubbell is significantly more substantial. The terminals of the Legrand sandwich the wire strands between the screw head and a plate, as contrasted with the Hubbell which compresses the wire between two plates—much better connection. I was having no issues with my installation but only replaced it based on reading this thread. My surprise, however, was upon inspection, the neutral terminal of the original receptacle was charred. Clearly it was already compromised. Would it ever be a bigger issue? Glad I won’t find out.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Burned out wall receptacle and plug. ugh (JuiceBox 40) 041AEF0D-8DDD-416A-AB8D-516AE45D3EF5
Neutral shouldn't even be used. My OpenEVSE unit came with a 14-XX plug which doesn't even have a connection for the neutral wire....not sure why yours would be charred there....strange.
 

Maquis

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Neutral shouldn't even be used. My OpenEVSE unit came with a 14-XX plug which doesn't even have a connection for the neutral wire....not sure why yours would be charred there....strange.
Agree - that wasn’t caused by an EVSE.
 
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agoldman

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You are probably not doing yourself any favors by constantly plugging and unplugging the charger. Eventually, it loosens the connection on the outlet and will cause this.
Never once unplugged the plug to the socket. It was in their as tight as possible and never touched. Just a crappy cheap Leviton socket.
 

Miav8r

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Agree - that wasn’t caused by an EVSE.
OK, now I’m curious! My Grizzl-e was replaced under warranty for randomly tripping the breaker, with and without it being plugged into the car. No issues since it’s replacement. Could this help explain a charred neutral terminal?

Nothing else has been plugged into this outlet.
 

Maquis

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OK, now I’m curious! My Grizzl-e was replaced under warranty for randomly tripping the breaker, with and without it being plugged into the car. No issues since it’s replacement. Could this help explain a charred neutral terminal?

Nothing else has been plugged into this outlet.
I wouldn’t think so. Normally, a L2 EVSE doesn’t even have a conductor to the neutral pin of the plug. The only way would be if the cord were mis-wired in the EVSE. Was the cord factory-wired?
 

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An update. Replaced my Legrand/Pass & Seymour outlet today with a Hubbell 9450A. Visually, the Hubbell is significantly more substantial. The terminals of the Legrand sandwich the wire strands between the screw head and a plate, as contrasted with the Hubbell which compresses the wire between two plates—much better connection. I was having no issues with my installation but only replaced it based on reading this thread. My surprise, however, was upon inspection, the neutral terminal of the original receptacle was charred. Clearly it was already compromised. Would it ever be a bigger issue? Glad I won’t find out.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Burned out wall receptacle and plug. ugh (JuiceBox 40) 041AEF0D-8DDD-416A-AB8D-516AE45D3EF5
Neutral isn't used on an EVSE so this is highly bizarre. Were there wires touching in the box behind the outlet, or touching the neutral screw?
 

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I use the “RV temp outlet” box by Midwest electric from home depot and haven’t had any issues. It’s mounted outside and charges for 2.5hrs every day with a 40A grizzl-e for almost a year now. Pulled the outlet out recently and everything was tight.
I’m using full copper wiring though. Non of that aluminum garbage.
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