Charging pauses due to overcurrent condition - Tesla wall connector w/ TeslaTap adaptor

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i'm using the Tesla wall connector at home on a 60amp circuit, along with the TeslaTap 80amp adaptor. This has happened a couple of times so far...I wake up to find the MachE is in Charged Paused status, and my Tesla wall connector has a fault code of 7 red blinks. According to Tesla, this means that vehicle overcurrent has been detected they instruct to reduce the vehicle’s charge current setting, which I don't have an option to do in the vehicle settings, and not even sure if I should anyway. They also refer you to the car manufacturer if it persists.

In both instances I removed the connector from the vehicle, reset the wall connector which cleared the fault code, and reconnected to the vehicle, and charging resumed to completion.

Can't really find any info that makes it clear if the problem lies with the wall charger, TeslaTap connector or the vehicle, and I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this or has some feedback. Thanks.
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So funny. My Lectron Tesla-to-J1772 adapter that arrived yesterday says that it has a max 40A/250V. I got it as a "just in case" on road trips. Wonder if that might be the problem you're having. What's the TeslaTap rated at?
 
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So funny. My Lectron Tesla-to-J1772 adapter that arrived yesterday says that it has a max 40A/250V. I got it as a "just in case" on road trips. Wonder if that might be the problem you're having. What's the TeslaTap rated at?
80amps. The wall connector is on a 60 amp dedicated circuit, so with the adaptor it will allow the full 48amp charging.
 

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80amps. The wall connector is on a 60 amp dedicated circuit, so with the adaptor it will allow the full 48amp charging.
Do you still have a Tesla using the charger or have family or friends that have one? First case would be to isolate the Tesla Wall connector to determine if it is operating properly.
I am interested in what happens as I will be using a 80-amp TeslaTap with my 60-amp Tesla wall connecter when my Mach-E arrives in next one or two weeks. I still have a Tesla so I will be using the wall connecter on both vehicles.
I hope Ford will have the ability to set the amps on AC charging on one of the first OTAs.
 

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So funny. My Lectron Tesla-to-J1772 adapter that arrived yesterday says that it has a max 40A/250V. I got it as a "just in case" on road trips. Wonder if that might be the problem you're having. What's the TeslaTap rated at?
Be careful with that 40A adapter. If you plug into a destination charger that can deliver 48A, the adapter will be overloaded, and I don't believe it has any kind of circuit breaker for protection.
 


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Do you still have a Tesla using the charger or have family or friends that have one? First case would be to isolate the Tesla Wall connector to determine if it is operating properly.
I am interested in what happens as I will be using a 80-amp TeslaTap with my 60-amp Tesla wall connecter when my Mach-E arrives in next one or two weeks. I still have a Tesla so I will be using the wall connecter on both vehicles.
I hope Ford will have the ability to set the amps on AC charging on one of the first OTAs.
Our original plans were to get the Model Y, and my son has a Model 3 so we went ahead and purchased the Tesla charger. Works fine on his Model 3.
 

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Our original plans were to get the Model Y, and my son has a Model 3 so we went ahead and purchased the Tesla charger. Works fine on his Model 3.
You could try using the TeslaTap connected to the J1772 to Tesla adapter connected to the Model 3 and see what happens. That could indicate if there is an issue with the TeslaTap and eliminate the Mach-E as the problem.
 
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You could try using the TeslaTap connected to the J1772 to Tesla adapter connected to the Model 3 and see what happens. That could indicate if there is an issue with the TeslaTap and eliminate the Mach-E as the problem.
Hmm, interesting. I will give that a try
 

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Hmm, interesting. I will give that a try
FYI, I picked up my Mach-E on Friday 3/22 and after some driving Friday, Saturday and this morning, I was down to 35%, so I plugged it up to my 60 amp Tesla wall connector with the 80 amp rated TeslaTap. I had no issues charging up to 80%, it started and stopped with no interruptions and no fault codes on the wall connector. Probably sometime in next 1 or 2 weeks I will set it up to charge overnight on scheduled charge and see what happens. I don't anticipate needing to charge it up soon as I work from home for now and also alternate driving the Model 3 as well. If I remember I will do the wall connector to TeslaTap to J1772 adapter to Model 3. I have LR RWD so it will take the full 48 amps.
 
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Sorry for the delay following up on this but I did try daisy-chaining the TeslaTap adaptor and charging my son’s Model 3 and wasn’t able to replicate the issue. Tonight again on the Mach E I got the overcurrent fault on the Tesla charger with the adaptor and the charging paused. I can reset the charger and it seems like it can go an hour or so before it faults again. I havent been able to find anything definitive on whether this will damage the battery in any way, but I can only assume that it pauses to prevent damage. Thoughts?
 

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Sorry for the delay following up on this but I did try daisy-chaining the TeslaTap adaptor and charging my son’s Model 3 and wasn’t able to replicate the issue. Tonight again on the Mach E I got the overcurrent fault on the Tesla charger with the adaptor and the charging paused. I can reset the charger and it seems like it can go an hour or so before it faults again. I havent been able to find anything definitive on whether this will damage the battery in any way, but I can only assume that it pauses to prevent damage. Thoughts?
The only question I have, is have you been waiting at least 30 seconds after attaching the TeslaTap to the Tesla Wall Connector before connecting the J1772 end to the Mach-E? I read this in the TeslaTap website to do this so I make sure I have been doing this every time. So far I have been successful charging the Mach-E using the TeslaTap using both scheduled charging and charging immediately. When I charge the Model 3 it usually shows as 243 to 245 volts coming from the Tesla Wall Connector, so my Mach-E handles the slightly higher voltage with 48 amps and no charging faults so far

Your testing with the Model 3, seems to point to the Mach-E being sensitive to something the Model 3 is not. Unfortunately until Ford send an update that will allow dialing down the amps in the car and/or fixes the sensitivity issue it will not go away.
The other thing I can think of is if you get the opportunity, test with the TeslaTap with another Wall Connector or a Destination Charger (some destination chargers are on 208V, so it is not an exact test). Obviously, you cannot live long term with this situation, as you need to trust the car will charge to your desired percentage.
 
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The only question I have, is have you been waiting at least 30 seconds after attaching the TeslaTap to the Tesla Wall Connector before connecting the J1772 end to the Mach-E? I read this in the TeslaTap website to do this so I make sure I have been doing this every time. So far I have been successful charging the Mach-E using the TeslaTap using both scheduled charging and charging immediately. When I charge the Model 3 it usually shows as 243 to 245 volts coming from the Tesla Wall Connector, so my Mach-E handles the slightly higher voltage with 48 amps and no charging faults so far

Your testing with the Model 3, seems to point to the Mach-E being sensitive to something the Model 3 is not. Unfortunately until Ford send an update that will allow dialing down the amps in the car and/or fixes the sensitivity issue it will not go away.
The other thing I can think of is if you get the opportunity, test with the TeslaTap with another Wall Connector or a Destination Charger (some destination chargers are on 208V, so it is not an exact test). Obviously, you cannot live long term with this situation, as you need to trust the car will charge to your desired percentage.
Great advice, and, no, I haven't been waiting 30 seconds after attaching the adaptor. I recall reading it in the instructions back when I purchased it, but just flat forgot. I will certainly try that next time and post an update. Another interesting item is that tonight after noticing on the app that it paused again, I just left it, then checked an hour or so later and charging resumed on its own. I've always reset the wall connector myself when it happened previously.
 

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i'm using the Tesla wall connector at home on a 60amp circuit, along with the TeslaTap 80amp adaptor. This has happened a couple of times so far...I wake up to find the MachE is in Charged Paused status, and my Tesla wall connector has a fault code of 7 red blinks. According to Tesla, this means that vehicle overcurrent has been detected they instruct to reduce the vehicle’s charge current setting, which I don't have an option to do in the vehicle settings, and not even sure if I should anyway. They also refer you to the car manufacturer if it persists.

In both instances I removed the connector from the vehicle, reset the wall connector which cleared the fault code, and reconnected to the vehicle, and charging resumed to completion.

Can't really find any info that makes it clear if the problem lies with the wall charger, TeslaTap connector or the vehicle, and I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this or has some feedback. Thanks.
Which version of the Tesla Wall Connector are you using? AFAIK, there are 3 versions. I'm familiar with version II but I bet version III has many of the same features. The info below applies to version II.

There is a thermocouple in the business end of the charge cable. If it gets too warm, the Wall Connector will sense that and shut off to prevent fire or melting. If you are there when the fault happens, just feel the charge plug/adapter and see if the thermocouple might have detected excessive heat (probably due to resistance between the plug and adapeter or adapter and the car's charge port).

Also, there is a setting inside the Wall Connector to determine maximum charge amperage. You might try setting it to a slightly lower value and see if your problem goes away. You can find the instructions to do this by Googling the owner's manual for your model of Wall Connector.

I really doubt this could damage the battery, it's just AC 240V which is what the car is expecting and knows what to do with it. It sounds like a communication problem between the cars software and the Wall Charger, maybe due to the adapter, maybe not. Or the thermal safety shut-off.
 
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Which version of the Tesla Wall Connector are you using? AFAIK, there are 3 versions. I'm familiar with version II but I bet version III has many of the same features. The info below applies to version II.

There is a thermocouple in the business end of the charge cable. If it gets too warm, the Wall Connector will sense that and shut off to prevent fire or melting. If you are there when the fault happens, just feel the charge plug/adapter and see if the thermocouple might have detected excessive heat (probably due to resistance between the plug and adapeter or adapter and the car's charge port).

Also, there is a setting inside the Wall Connector to determine maximum charge amperage. You might try setting it to a slightly lower value and see if your problem goes away. You can find the instructions to do this by Googling the owner's manual for your model of Wall Connector.

I really doubt this could damage the battery, it's just AC 240V which is what the car is expecting and knows what to do with it. It sounds like a communication problem between the cars software and the Wall Charger, maybe due to the adapter, maybe not. Or the thermal safety shut-off.
Thanks for the info. Mine is a gen 3. I'll take a look at the settings through the wifi link and see if I can find anything that may address it, but it's reassuring that its not putting the battery at risk.
 
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i'm using the Tesla wall connector at home on a 60amp circuit, along with the TeslaTap 80amp adaptor. This has happened a couple of times so far...I wake up to find the MachE is in Charged Paused status, and my Tesla wall connector has a fault code of 7 red blinks. According to Tesla, this means that vehicle overcurrent has been detected they instruct to reduce the vehicle’s charge current setting, which I don't have an option to do in the vehicle settings, and not even sure if I should anyway. They also refer you to the car manufacturer if it persists.

In both instances I removed the connector from the vehicle, reset the wall connector which cleared the fault code, and reconnected to the vehicle, and charging resumed to completion.

Can't really find any info that makes it clear if the problem lies with the wall charger, TeslaTap connector or the vehicle, and I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this or has some feedback. Thanks.
Quick update. Per the suggestion of the TeslaTap rep, I changed the setting on the Tesla wall connector so it thinks it’s on a 50a breaker, instead of a 60a. Since then I’ve charged the Mach E 3 times without the fault. The longest session was about 60 to 90%, so may need to run a longer session to be 100% sure, but pretty confident that fixed it.
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