Marlin's Dead Low Voltage Battery (LVB) -- Followed by Stuck in Park

GoGoGadgetMachE

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Ontologically Anthropocentric Sensory Immersive Simulation -- another name for Minecraft?
I was Ready for a Player like Jonathan to make One reference to this.
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Illinibird

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So, the latest update on Marlin.

They didn't end up moving him up to Frederick Monday after all. We had icy roads and a bit more snow Monday morning. While the Mach E can handle those roads, they decided not to risk the other DC-area drivers (who are notoriously bad in winter weather). Besides, they were able to reproduce the error, so the FSE just worked at Koons the last two days. They checked for other bad components and bad connections and through two days of extensive diagnostics they finally determined the issue is a bad connection within the Rear Electric Drive Assembly.

The good news is my LVB seems to be holding just fine!

Screen Shot 2021-02-23 at 10.53.24 PM.png


A new one has been emergency ordered and should be delivered here from Dearborn tomorrow ?

With any luck Marlin will be out of the shop Friday and we'll be able to take our road trip as planned. ?

Unfortunately, PPF and ceramic will have to wait until we get back.
I wonder how they gain access to the rear motor? From the bottom of the car or from the rear cargo area? In the front it would involve removing the plastic frunk "bowl" (plastic tub with the drain).
 

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I wonder how they gain access to the rear motor? From the bottom of the car or from the rear cargo area? In the front it would involve removing the plastic frunk "bowl" (plastic tub with the drain).
getting in:
Ford Mustang Mach-E Marlin's Dead Low Voltage Battery (LVB) -- Followed by Stuck in Park 1614172414297

putting it back:
Ford Mustang Mach-E Marlin's Dead Low Voltage Battery (LVB) -- Followed by Stuck in Park 1614172441955

easy-peasy!
 

agoldman

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Mark, did they feel like this was a one off, or could that failure be something more widespread?
 
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ChasingCoral

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I wonder how they gain access to the rear motor? From the bottom of the car or from the rear cargo area? In the front it would involve removing the plastic frunk "bowl" (plastic tub with the drain).
I'm sure it's from below. it will require disconnecting both rear axles, so I'm confident they'll be removing the whole underbody panel. It's bound to be a heavy piece, so I expect they will be using a lift. Unlike removing a hood to directly lower an engine into an ICE car, you can't directly lower this unit in from the back without carefully bringing a lift arm inside the cargo area to lower it down. The latter just doesn't make sense.
 


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ChasingCoral

ChasingCoral

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ChasingCoral

ChasingCoral

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ChasingCoral

ChasingCoral

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Can they replace the damaged panel that was torn in transport while they're at it?
I was referring to the rear underbody panel. It is a non-structural composite cover to provide protection from the elements and aerodynamics. I believe the member torn aluminum element is a lateral support for the battery pack. It may be integral to the battery pack. As the damage is cosmetic on the underside, I don't think they'd want to drop and potentially disassemble the battery pack to repair it.
 

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Wow. How interesting! That diagnosis makes no sense to me, looking in from the outside, with the limited information I saw from your descriptions. I guess something was intermittently shorting out on the motor housing? But, I trust them to figure it out. Your patience is outstanding. I hope you get it back asap (and with a new motor, woohoo).
This is terrifying to think. I would be more worried about any damage the car has done to itself in the last two weeks, from all the testing and prodding. I would take Marlin on that road trip, but demanding a new FE upon return.
 

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I was referring to the rear underbody panel. It is a non-structural composite cover to provide protection from the elements and aerodynamics. I believe the member torn aluminum element is a lateral support for the battery pack. It may be integral to the battery pack. As the damage is cosmetic on the underside, I don't think they'd want to drop and potentially disassemble the battery pack to repair it.
If it's aluminium I would not worry to much and forget about it, you'll never see it again?, just enjoy Marlin when he's back?
 
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ChasingCoral

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Wow. How interesting! That diagnosis makes no sense to me, looking in from the outside, with the limited information I saw from your descriptions. I guess something was intermittently shorting out on the motor housing? But, I trust them to figure it out. Your patience is outstanding. I hope you get it back asap (and with a new motor, woohoo).
Intermittent short isn't quite the right way to thing about the control of these systems. Remember that these are complex sets of electronic components controlled through unique switching signals. Communications among Mach E components is like parts of your computer talking to each other. Here's a sample:
"The park pawl actuator uses dual PWM {Pulse Width Modulation} output (at 1000 Hz) park pawl position sensors where sensor A increases as the park pawl moves out of Park and sensor B decreases. Together the sum of the two PWM signal duty cycles should add up to approximately 100%. A rotary sensor measures the position of a cam actuator that moves the linear park pawl rod and determines whether the park pawl actuator is in the "Stay out of Park" mode".
{my insertion}

In simple English, this ain't no on-off switch!
 

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I would take Marlin on that road trip, but demanding a new FE upon return.
I don't think it works that way. They're not just going to replace the car, especially after they've already fixed it (not that they likely have one to replace it with anyway).
 

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Intermittent short isn't quite the right way to thing about the control of these systems. Remember that these are complex sets of electronic components controlled through unique switching signals. Communications among Mach E components is like parts of your computer talking to each other. Here's a sample:
"The park pawl actuator uses dual PWM {Pulse Width Modulation} output (at 1000 Hz) park pawl position sensors where sensor A increases as the park pawl moves out of Park and sensor B decreases. Together the sum of the two PWM signal duty cycles should add up to approximately 100%. A rotary sensor measures the position of a cam actuator that moves the linear park pawl rod and determines whether the park pawl actuator is in the "Stay out of Park" mode".
{my insertion}

In simple English, this ain't no on-off switch!
Yes... even something simple like the brake lights are not directly connected to the brake pedal, as in the past. The brake pedal has a sensor which tells a control module the pedal has been pushed, and the module sends a signal to the brake light control to illuminate. "Shorts" are different now, lol.
 
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