I have the Summertime black mesh insert and it comes with a reflective very thin added optional white overlayer for very sunny days, and with about 8 or 10 black plastic no-damage clips to hold everything up... I think perhaps putting the Reflectix (or eq.) layer above the black Summertime mesh might work for quick in & out Arctic weather installs, without using tape. Also, the black mesh might give a good enough template to cut the Reflectix.
FYI the reflective surface must remain exposed for it to function correctly reflecting heat. If you cover the surface with cloth, that will reduce the R value from 3.0 to 1.0 since it will no longer reflect heat. You need a minimum air gap of about 3/4" in front of the reflective surface for it to work as a radiant barrier. Draping a cloth 3/4" below or more would be the only way to hide it. For more information, read about how radiant barriers work.I’ve wondered if some of the lighter weight roof shades wouldn’t hurt. This is a great idea, thanks!
The amount of heat gain is proportional to the area covered. So if you had small gaps around the edges, you would be at 99% effectiveness instead of 100%. Therefore small gaps aren't a big deal. Also, it does expand and contract with temperature, so having some smalls gaps will prevent it from bowing when it warms up. See above for why you don't want to cover it with anything.How effective would this be if some of the glass were to remain exposed along the edges? I'm wondering if someone's edge work didn't come out quite as well as yours did, maybe one of the sunroof shades could be used to conceal it.
Solar gain here in winter is not very much with the low sun angle (<30º) and very short days, so we aren't missing out on much. Because the sun angle is so low, most of the heat gain would come through the side windows in winter, not the roof. Plus the roof glass has coatings that block solar heat gain.That said, I wonder if it’s full sun during the day if the OPs idea actually hurts you since it blocks the heat from the sun even more.
FYI the reflective surface must remain exposed for it to function correctly reflecting heat. If you cover the surface with cloth, that will reduce the R value from 3.0 to 1.0 since it will no longer reflect heat. You need a minimum air gap of about 3/4" in front of the reflective surface for it to work as a radiant barrier. Draping a cloth 3/4" below or more would be the only way to hide it. QUOTE]
Fair enough... although I note that your chosen barrier appears to have both closed air cells as well as a reflective surface.
Obviously, both add to the heat retention. The cells also would seem to add to the relative rigidity of the Reflectix sheet that a single thin reflective layer would lack.
Reflectance can also be gained with a single layer of reflecting material. A space blanket comes to mind.
This makes me wonder what effect at which temperature gradients a closed cell layer would have, vice a thin reflectance layer by itself. Either approach could potentially use the high Summer aftermarket pano glass shades as a load bearing structure.
These thoughts are theoretical. Not reliably cold enough where we live... maybe for Winter travel.
I find a great deal of heat is generated, even in winter's low sun angle, when the car is parked directly to the south with windshield facing south. The angle of the windshield greatly increases that sun angle allowed to come in, plus seats and interior will absorb sunlight and warm up.Solar gain here in winter is not very much with the low sun angle (<30Âş) and very short days
Nice project!@AOSK can you help? How about an interior reflective sunshade that looks better, with some padding for insulation?
How about for next year? Maybe a year-round design that would block light/heat in the summer? Maybe not reflective if it has a high enough R-value?Nice project!
its probably too late for us to make something now, the winter probably past already when our inventory arrive the amazon warehouse.
We recently made one on the Rivian, and Owners quite like them. and we are now making one for the Mach E(a two layer sunshade, one mesh layer and one sliver coated layer). but the sliver coated layer we made supposed to go on top of the mesh layer to reflect the sun light, not sure if we could have them on the bottom to surve the purpose OP discussed in this thread, we will definitely try it out.How about for next year? Maybe a year-round design that would block light/heat in the summer? Maybe not reflective if it has a high enough R-value?
I recommend you flip that one around so the shiny silver surface is facing inside during the winter which reflects the radiant heat back into the car. If the silver is facing outside it will reflect out some of the heat the sun brings in and be marginally effective reflecting the heat back into the car.I first learned to shield my glass roof on my Jeep Grand Cherokee, while driving I was chilled and by closing the cover I was comfortable.
For the Mach e I could reach up and feel the cold radiating from the roof so I ordered one of these:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09PHNF381?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I now don't feel the cold when I place my hand against the roof.
It's actually two pieces, the reflective panel and then the decorative panel.I recommend you flip that one around so the shiny silver surface is facing inside during the winter which reflects the radiant heat back into the car. If the silver is facing outside it will reflect out some of the heat the sun brings in and be marginally effective reflecting the heat back into the car.
Actually it might work better than having a reflective surface on both sides because the white side will absorb more of the sun. I bet a black surface facing out and silver reflective surface facing in would be the best setup for the winter.