i8iridium

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I'm going to put this up front. This is a bit extreme and slightly dangerous. Hopefully I covered for most circumstances. I'm open for suggestions, but not UN-constructive criticism.

This is really just a photo session showing what I used to export power from the Heater connection of the mach E. I went through an iteration of using the AC power connection and a DC/DC power supply, but the power supply wasn't up to the task. I did some research and it seemed like the most cost effective way to convert ~380vDC to 240vAC was a solar inverter.

The solar inverter is a Growatt SPF 5000 ES. It puts out 240vAC. No split phase 120v like you need for my panel. We'll get to that in a second. The growatt can handle a max PV input of 450vDC @ 18A. It can also charge a 48vDC battery system. I can't find any PV inverter that I can afford that can handle 380vDC on the battery side. That's why I went for the PV input instead. This is one of the few inverters that can run off PV alone without any battery supplement.

On the AC Side it goes to a L14-30 twist lock into my generator inlet. From the generator inlet, it goes to a Victron 30 amp auto transformer. This turns the 240vAC into split phase 240/120vAC while balancing each 120v leg. From that point it goes into a interlocked breaker to feed the entire panel. I've used this autotransformer for both my other battery system (Ecoflow Delta Pro) and my Inverter Generator and it performs like a champ.

I sourced the vehicle connector and pins from Mouser, which was a big pain in the a$$. Ford doesn't have a part number for any of the connectors, so it was a lot of guesswork. I crimped the pins to the double insulated solar wire, and attached MC4 solar connectors. I figure those are built for some high voltage DC, so they should be up to the task.

I decided to hook to the heater power instead of the AC power because of ease of access. I only have to pull one panel to get to the heater connector vs pulling the whole frunk. Those circuits are protected in the HVBJB by a 50A fuse if i remember correctly. So i made sure I fused my solar connectors at 20A. The inverter should never draw more than 13A on the HV side, so i was able to keep the wire gauge smaller. I don't have a lot of data yet on usage/battery drain. That will be a future thing. I can run the AC unit for the house with no issue. The surge wattage on this inverter is great.

The basic hook up is: Car off, disconnect heater connector. Connect my cable. Turn car on and disable auto-off and turn off accessories. Hook up cable to generator inlet. Flip interlock breaker. On to the pictures.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2949
Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2953
Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2950

Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2952
Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2955
Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2951

Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2954
 

Hammered

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That's the way to do it. Really surprised ford didn't bother at least putting in the lightning's 2.4kW inverter. As competition heats up I hope to see a bidirectional charging module that can output up to 10kW 240v back feed on the EVSE to an auto transformer just as you've done. That's how a proper V2x configuration would work. That'd allow EV 2 EV charging at 10kW as well, as well as be able to output 120v or 240v.
 

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Worthwhile info. Thank you.

Over on PriusChat.com back in the day, there had been several intelligent threads about running house circuitry from a Prius (essentially a generator and battery bank on wheels), especially in 2012 after Hurricane Sandy.

I still have a 2,000 Watt AIMS inverter from that project... and now it's two cars (PHEV and now BEV) later haha.
 

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Wow, first person to tap into the high voltage eh? Congrats.

Can you share the connector part number for posterity?

I have a 1500W/12V inverter setup which works well enough for emergency backup purposes. Keeps the fridge and furnace running. But yours is definitely more serious if you need 240V loads. Big enough to run your home A/C compressor?
 


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i8iridium

i8iridium

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Wow, first person to tap into the high voltage eh? Congrats.

Can you share the connector part number for posterity?

I have a 1500W/12V inverter setup which works well enough for emergency backup purposes. Keeps the fridge and furnace running. But yours is definitely more serious if you need 240V loads. Big enough to run your home A/C compressor?
Starts the AC compressor no problem. The surge on that inverter is great.

I had to shave one of the key ways cause I couldn’t find the exact connector. Kinda just gave up and settled on the one listed below

Mouser Part: 829-13830171
Adaptiv Part: 13830171

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/13830171?

pins:
Mouser Part: 829-13753471-L
Adaptiv Part:13753471-L
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/829-13753471-L

Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2973
 

JohnFoxeSheets

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Starts the AC compressor no problem. The surge on that inverter is great.

I had to shave one of the key ways cause I couldn’t find the exact connector. Kinda just gave up and settled on the one listed below

Mouser Part: 829-13830171
Adaptiv Part: 13830171

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/13830171?

pins:
Mouser Part: 829-13753471-L
Adaptiv Part:13753471-L
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/829-13753471-L

Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2973
I suspect Ford has a custom keyed connector to make this sort of thing more difficult…
 
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i8iridium

i8iridium

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I suspect Ford has a custom keyed connector to make this sort of thing more difficult…
I could see that kind of being the case, but I'm fairly sure that it's available and I'm just not finding it. The Adaptiv (Delphi) catalog is pretty extensive, but you have to call and request the spec sheets that have CAD drawings of the connectors with measurements, and frankly, I'm just too lazy for all of that.

I found a source of a used harness that I could use and potentially splice with my own connector (probably waterproof MC4), so I don't have to technically disconnect anything on the car. Still debating that idea.
 

DR.J56

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I'm going to put this up front. This is a bit extreme and slightly dangerous. Hopefully I covered for most circumstances. I'm open for suggestions, but not UN-constructive criticism.

This is really just a photo session showing what I used to export power from the Heater connection of the mach E. I went through an iteration of using the AC power connection and a DC/DC power supply, but the power supply wasn't up to the task. I did some research and it seemed like the most cost effective way to convert ~380vDC to 240vAC was a solar inverter.

The solar inverter is a Growatt SPF 5000 ES. It puts out 240vAC. No split phase 120v like you need for my panel. We'll get to that in a second. The growatt can handle a max PV input of 450vDC @ 18A. It can also charge a 48vDC battery system. I can't find any PV inverter that I can afford that can handle 380vDC on the battery side. That's why I went for the PV input instead. This is one of the few inverters that can run off PV alone without any battery supplement.

On the AC Side it goes to a L14-30 twist lock into my generator inlet. From the generator inlet, it goes to a Victron 30 amp auto transformer. This turns the 240vAC into split phase 240/120vAC while balancing each 120v leg. From that point it goes into a interlocked breaker to feed the entire panel. I've used this autotransformer for both my other battery system (Ecoflow Delta Pro) and my Inverter Generator and it performs like a champ.

I sourced the vehicle connector and pins from Mouser, which was a big pain in the a$$. Ford doesn't have a part number for any of the connectors, so it was a lot of guesswork. I crimped the pins to the double insulated solar wire, and attached MC4 solar connectors. I figure those are built for some high voltage DC, so they should be up to the task.

I decided to hook to the heater power instead of the AC power because of ease of access. I only have to pull one panel to get to the heater connector vs pulling the whole frunk. Those circuits are protected in the HVBJB by a 50A fuse if i remember correctly. So i made sure I fused my solar connectors at 20A. The inverter should never draw more than 13A on the HV side, so i was able to keep the wire gauge smaller. I don't have a lot of data yet on usage/battery drain. That will be a future thing. I can run the AC unit for the house with no issue. The surge wattage on this inverter is great.

The basic hook up is: Car off, disconnect heater connector. Connect my cable. Turn car on and disable auto-off and turn off accessories. Hook up cable to generator inlet. Flip interlock breaker. On to the pictures.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2973
Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2973
Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2973

Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2973
Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2973
Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2973

Ford Mustang Mach-E Export Power via Solar Inverter DIY IMG_2973
This is awesome. I’m surprised theres not more of these kinds of threads. Kudos to you sir!
 

ChasingCoral

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This is AWESOME!

Thanks for doing the hard work of first V2H for a Mach E!
 

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Doing the math, it looks like you can get about 4,000 Watts of power into your house from your car. If that is accurate, you could run your house for about 20 hours. Is that what you are seeing?
 
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i8iridium

i8iridium

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Doing the math, it looks like you can get about 4,000 Watts of power into your house from your car. If that is accurate, you could run your house for about 20 hours. Is that what you are seeing?
The inverter can pull 5000 watts on the AC side if I want to max it out. It's rated at 93% efficient (maximum), so it'll probably pull about 5350 watts on the DC side.

Realistic average load is probably 1800 AC watts or less. That's about as far as I've gotten with the math lol. I haven't done any long term testing yet.
 

mkhuffman

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The inverter can pull 5000 watts on the AC side if I want to max it out. It's rated at 93% efficient (maximum), so it'll probably pull about 5350 watts on the DC side.

Realistic average load is probably 1800 AC watts or less. That's about as far as I've gotten with the math lol. I haven't done any long term testing yet.
Well, you rock man. This is very cool.
Sponsored

 
 




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