TheVirtualTim

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Now that I've done the install once (it took 3 hours), I could install one much faster. Note that part of my "install" was carpentry work to trim out the wall panel where I planned to install it.

You will need:

A Torx T6 bit screwdriver (very tiny) for the clamps that hold the charging cable in place.

A Torx T25 bit screwdriver for all the Torx screws that hold the weather cover (not the cosmetic cover) in place. That cover is held on with just 3 screws when you pull it out of the box ... but the rest of the screws are in a bag. When you put the cover back on you'll use all of them.

Most people probably already have the rest of the tools (tape measure, pliers, screwdrivers, allen wrench, etc.) I've bolded the Torx sizes because it's less common for someone to just have those on-hand ... pick 'em up if you don't own them.


But it really is as basic as:

1. Shut off the supply power at the breaker to make sure nothing is live during the install.

2. Decide how you want to route the supply power to the EVSE (either up through the bottom or in from the back). You'll need to cut out one of the bottom tabs if coming up from the bottom. You'll need to drill out one of the access ports on the back if bringing power in from the back.

3. Mount the metal mounting bracket.

4. Insert the charging cord through that spring whip (a bit of a fuss because the wires like to get caught on the spring), connect to the lugs and tighten. It is easiest to do this when the charger is NOT yet mounted on the wall. There's a clamp that holds the charging cord in place and that clamp takes a very tiny Torx 6 (T6) screwdriver. It's easiest to do this with the charger laying down on a table rather than hanging on the wall.

5. Mount the charger on the mounting bracket. Two screws lock it onto the mount.

6. Route the 240v supply power in and tighten the lugs.

7. Set the DIP switches. D5 must be set to '0' (off). D1 through D4 can be set based on the amperage limits. If using the full 48 amps then D1 is set to '1' (on) and the position of D2, D3, and D4 don't actually matter. If using less than 48 amps (D1 is '0' / off) then D2, D3, and D4 *do* matter and the table tells you what to set.

EDIT: IMPORTANT NOTE: There is some confusion over the DIP switch settings. The labels indicating the 1 vs. 0 on the green board are correct. The labeling on the red DIP switch block is incorrect.

In the photo below, the DIP switches are correctly configured to allow for 48 amp charging (circuit breaker should be 60 amp to use this setting.)

IMG_1666.jpeg


8. The front panel LED lights connect to a wire harness ... that wire is currently taped to the inside of the cover. Remove the tape and plug in the wire harness (figure 12 in the front of the manual shows the location). The plug is keyed so it can only be plugged in one way.)

9. Do a final inspection on all those wires secured on all the lugs ... make sure they are all pretty tight. If you have 4-wire (for NEMA 14-50) make sure you cap & tuck the 'Neutral' wire away (it isn't used).

10. Put the inside cover on (the weather-sealed cover)... and all those Torx 25 screws (I think there are 10 of them)

11. There two plugs that close off any un-used access holes on the bottom.

12. Don't put the cosmetic cover on (yet). Instead, download and launch the FordChargeStation setup app. (This is NOT the Ford Pass app)

13. Turn on the power at the breaker (Smoke test! Do not let the smoke out of the box. Smoke must remain inside the box for proper function of the charger.)

14. Follow the instructions in the phone setup app. The reason you left the cosmetic cover off is because the app is going to ask you to key in an access code ... printed on a sticker on the weather-cover (so you'll want to be able to see that). Same code is also on a sticker on the front of the user's guide (but not the install guide).

15. After you key in all the info, select your WiFi network, etc. it will offer to configure the Ford Pass app with all this ... and auto-launches Ford Pass. At this point the charger will show up in Ford Pass.

I got a message that it was successful ... but for roughly the first ... 15 minutes (not exactly sure how long ... but it was a while) the Ford Pass app complained that the charger was not connected to the server. (Possibly some delays on the server-side of the configuration. Possibly it was doing a software update??). But this eventually went away on it's own and it's been great ever since.

16. Put the cosmetic cover on.

Oh... and mount the holster/cable-holder.

17. Take photos and post here!

18. Drink beer (or beverage of choice)





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macchiaz-o

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Now that I've done the install once (it took 3 hours), I could install one much faster. Note that part of my "install" was carpentry work to trim out the wall panel where I planned to install it.

You will need:

A Torx T6 bit screwdriver (very tiny) for the clamps that hold the charging cable in place.

A Torx T25 bit screwdriver for all the Torx screws that hold the weather cover (not the cosmetic cover) in place. That cover is held on with just 3 screws when you pull it out of the box ... but the rest of the screws are in a bag. When you put the cover back on you'll use all of them.

Most people probably already have the rest of the tools (tape measure, pliers, screwdrivers, allen wrench, etc.) I've bolded the Torx sizes because it's less common for someone to just have those on-hand ... pick 'em up if you don't own them.


But it really is as basic as:

1. Shut off the supply power at the breaker to make sure nothing is live during the install.

2. Decide how you want to route the supply power to the EVSE (either up through the bottom or in from the back). You'll need to cut out one of the bottom tabs if coming up from the bottom. You'll need to drill out one of the access ports on the back if bringing power in from the back.

3. Mount the metal mounting bracket.

4. Insert the charging cord through that spring whip (a bit of a fuss because the wires like to get caught on the spring), connect to the lugs and tighten. It is easiest to do this when the charger is NOT yet mounted on the wall. There's a clamp that holds the charging cord in place and that clamp takes a very tiny Torx 6 (T6) screwdriver. It's easiest to do this with the charger laying down on a table rather than hanging on the wall.

5. Mount the charger on the mounting bracket. Two screws lock it onto the mount.

6. Route the 240v supply power in and tighten the lugs.

7. Set the DIP switches. D5 must be set to '0' (off). D1 through D4 can be set based on the amperage limits. If using the full 48 amps then D1 is set to '1' (on) and the position of D2, D3, and D4 don't actually matter. If using less than 48 amps (D1 is '0' / off) then D2, D3, and D4 *do* matter and the table tells you what to set.

8. The front panel LED lights connect to a wire harness ... that wire is currently taped to the inside of the cover. Remove the tape and plug in the wire harness (figure 12 in the front of the manual shows the location). The plug is keyed so it can only be plugged in one way.)

9. Do a final inspection on all those wires secured on all the lugs ... make sure they are all pretty tight. If you have 4-wire (for NEMA 14-50) make sure you cap & tuck the 'Neutral' wire away (it isn't used).

10. Put the inside cover on (the weather-sealed cover)... and all those Torx 25 screws (I think there are 10 of them)

11. There two plugs that close off any un-used access holes on the bottom.

12. Don't put the cosmetic cover on (yet). Instead, download and launch the FordChargeStation setup app. (This is NOT the Ford Pass app)

13. Turn on the power at the breaker (Smoke test! Do not let the smoke out of the box. Smoke must remain inside the box for proper function of the charger.)

14. Follow the instructions in the phone setup app. The reason you left the cosmetic cover off is because the app is going to ask you to key in an access code ... printed on a sticker on the weather-cover (so you'll want to be able to see that). Same code is also on a sticker on the front of the user's guide (but not the install guide).

15. After you key in all the info, select your WiFi network, etc. it will offer to configure the Ford Pass app with all this ... and auto-launches Ford Pass. At this point the charger will show up in Ford Pass.

I got a message that it was successful ... but for roughly the first ... 15 minutes (not exactly sure how long ... but it was a while) the Ford Pass app complained that the charger was not connected to the server. (Possibly some delays on the server-side of the configuration. Possibly it was doing a software update??). But this eventually went away on it's own and it's been great ever since.

16. Put the cosmetic cover on.

Oh... and mount the holster/cable-holder.

17. Take photos and post here!

18. Drink beer (or beverage of choice)
Nicely done. Thank you!
 

GoGoGadgetMachE

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Now that I've done the install once (it took 3 hours), I could install one much faster. Note that part of my "install" was carpentry work to trim out the wall panel where I planned to install it.

You will need:

A Torx T6 bit screwdriver (very tiny) for the clamps that hold the charging cable in place.

A Torx T25 bit screwdriver for all the Torx screws that hold the weather cover (not the cosmetic cover) in place. That cover is held on with just 3 screws when you pull it out of the box ... but the rest of the screws are in a bag. When you put the cover back on you'll use all of them.

Most people probably already have the rest of the tools (tape measure, pliers, screwdrivers, allen wrench, etc.) I've bolded the Torx sizes because it's less common for someone to just have those on-hand ... pick 'em up if you don't own them.


But it really is as basic as:

1. Shut off the supply power at the breaker to make sure nothing is live during the install.

2. Decide how you want to route the supply power to the EVSE (either up through the bottom or in from the back). You'll need to cut out one of the bottom tabs if coming up from the bottom. You'll need to drill out one of the access ports on the back if bringing power in from the back.

3. Mount the metal mounting bracket.

4. Insert the charging cord through that spring whip (a bit of a fuss because the wires like to get caught on the spring), connect to the lugs and tighten. It is easiest to do this when the charger is NOT yet mounted on the wall. There's a clamp that holds the charging cord in place and that clamp takes a very tiny Torx 6 (T6) screwdriver. It's easiest to do this with the charger laying down on a table rather than hanging on the wall.

5. Mount the charger on the mounting bracket. Two screws lock it onto the mount.

6. Route the 240v supply power in and tighten the lugs.

7. Set the DIP switches. D5 must be set to '0' (off). D1 through D4 can be set based on the amperage limits. If using the full 48 amps then D1 is set to '1' (on) and the position of D2, D3, and D4 don't actually matter. If using less than 48 amps (D1 is '0' / off) then D2, D3, and D4 *do* matter and the table tells you what to set.

8. The front panel LED lights connect to a wire harness ... that wire is currently taped to the inside of the cover. Remove the tape and plug in the wire harness (figure 12 in the front of the manual shows the location). The plug is keyed so it can only be plugged in one way.)

9. Do a final inspection on all those wires secured on all the lugs ... make sure they are all pretty tight. If you have 4-wire (for NEMA 14-50) make sure you cap & tuck the 'Neutral' wire away (it isn't used).

10. Put the inside cover on (the weather-sealed cover)... and all those Torx 25 screws (I think there are 10 of them)

11. There two plugs that close off any un-used access holes on the bottom.

12. Don't put the cosmetic cover on (yet). Instead, download and launch the FordChargeStation setup app. (This is NOT the Ford Pass app)

13. Turn on the power at the breaker (Smoke test! Do not let the smoke out of the box. Smoke must remain inside the box for proper function of the charger.)

14. Follow the instructions in the phone setup app. The reason you left the cosmetic cover off is because the app is going to ask you to key in an access code ... printed on a sticker on the weather-cover (so you'll want to be able to see that). Same code is also on a sticker on the front of the user's guide (but not the install guide).

15. After you key in all the info, select your WiFi network, etc. it will offer to configure the Ford Pass app with all this ... and auto-launches Ford Pass. At this point the charger will show up in Ford Pass.

I got a message that it was successful ... but for roughly the first ... 15 minutes (not exactly sure how long ... but it was a while) the Ford Pass app complained that the charger was not connected to the server. (Possibly some delays on the server-side of the configuration. Possibly it was doing a software update??). But this eventually went away on it's own and it's been great ever since.

16. Put the cosmetic cover on.

Oh... and mount the holster/cable-holder.

17. Take photos and post here!

18. Drink beer (or beverage of choice)
should this be sticky, @Administrator ? I don't know if it's wide enough interest forum-wise but it's pretty well written. It feels like maybe it should be?
 

trutolife27

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Now that I've done the install once (it took 3 hours), I could install one much faster. Note that part of my "install" was carpentry work to trim out the wall panel where I planned to install it.

You will need:

A Torx T6 bit screwdriver (very tiny) for the clamps that hold the charging cable in place.

A Torx T25 bit screwdriver for all the Torx screws that hold the weather cover (not the cosmetic cover) in place. That cover is held on with just 3 screws when you pull it out of the box ... but the rest of the screws are in a bag. When you put the cover back on you'll use all of them.

Most people probably already have the rest of the tools (tape measure, pliers, screwdrivers, allen wrench, etc.) I've bolded the Torx sizes because it's less common for someone to just have those on-hand ... pick 'em up if you don't own them.


But it really is as basic as:

1. Shut off the supply power at the breaker to make sure nothing is live during the install.

2. Decide how you want to route the supply power to the EVSE (either up through the bottom or in from the back). You'll need to cut out one of the bottom tabs if coming up from the bottom. You'll need to drill out one of the access ports on the back if bringing power in from the back.

3. Mount the metal mounting bracket.

4. Insert the charging cord through that spring whip (a bit of a fuss because the wires like to get caught on the spring), connect to the lugs and tighten. It is easiest to do this when the charger is NOT yet mounted on the wall. There's a clamp that holds the charging cord in place and that clamp takes a very tiny Torx 6 (T6) screwdriver. It's easiest to do this with the charger laying down on a table rather than hanging on the wall.

5. Mount the charger on the mounting bracket. Two screws lock it onto the mount.

6. Route the 240v supply power in and tighten the lugs.

7. Set the DIP switches. D5 must be set to '0' (off). D1 through D4 can be set based on the amperage limits. If using the full 48 amps then D1 is set to '1' (on) and the position of D2, D3, and D4 don't actually matter. If using less than 48 amps (D1 is '0' / off) then D2, D3, and D4 *do* matter and the table tells you what to set.

8. The front panel LED lights connect to a wire harness ... that wire is currently taped to the inside of the cover. Remove the tape and plug in the wire harness (figure 12 in the front of the manual shows the location). The plug is keyed so it can only be plugged in one way.)

9. Do a final inspection on all those wires secured on all the lugs ... make sure they are all pretty tight. If you have 4-wire (for NEMA 14-50) make sure you cap & tuck the 'Neutral' wire away (it isn't used).

10. Put the inside cover on (the weather-sealed cover)... and all those Torx 25 screws (I think there are 10 of them)

11. There two plugs that close off any un-used access holes on the bottom.

12. Don't put the cosmetic cover on (yet). Instead, download and launch the FordChargeStation setup app. (This is NOT the Ford Pass app)

13. Turn on the power at the breaker (Smoke test! Do not let the smoke out of the box. Smoke must remain inside the box for proper function of the charger.)

14. Follow the instructions in the phone setup app. The reason you left the cosmetic cover off is because the app is going to ask you to key in an access code ... printed on a sticker on the weather-cover (so you'll want to be able to see that). Same code is also on a sticker on the front of the user's guide (but not the install guide).

15. After you key in all the info, select your WiFi network, etc. it will offer to configure the Ford Pass app with all this ... and auto-launches Ford Pass. At this point the charger will show up in Ford Pass.

I got a message that it was successful ... but for roughly the first ... 15 minutes (not exactly sure how long ... but it was a while) the Ford Pass app complained that the charger was not connected to the server. (Possibly some delays on the server-side of the configuration. Possibly it was doing a software update??). But this eventually went away on it's own and it's been great ever since.

16. Put the cosmetic cover on.

Oh... and mount the holster/cable-holder.

17. Take photos and post here!

18. Drink beer (or beverage of choice)
yep this needs to be placed somewhere easy access.
 

jjcroninjr

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Now that I've done the install once (it took 3 hours), I could install one much faster. Note that part of my "install" was carpentry work to trim out the wall panel where I planned to install it.

You will need:

A Torx T6 bit screwdriver (very tiny) for the clamps that hold the charging cable in place.

A Torx T25 bit screwdriver for all the Torx screws that hold the weather cover (not the cosmetic cover) in place. That cover is held on with just 3 screws when you pull it out of the box ... but the rest of the screws are in a bag. When you put the cover back on you'll use all of them.

Most people probably already have the rest of the tools (tape measure, pliers, screwdrivers, allen wrench, etc.) I've bolded the Torx sizes because it's less common for someone to just have those on-hand ... pick 'em up if you don't own them.


But it really is as basic as:

1. Shut off the supply power at the breaker to make sure nothing is live during the install.

2. Decide how you want to route the supply power to the EVSE (either up through the bottom or in from the back). You'll need to cut out one of the bottom tabs if coming up from the bottom. You'll need to drill out one of the access ports on the back if bringing power in from the back.

3. Mount the metal mounting bracket.

4. Insert the charging cord through that spring whip (a bit of a fuss because the wires like to get caught on the spring), connect to the lugs and tighten. It is easiest to do this when the charger is NOT yet mounted on the wall. There's a clamp that holds the charging cord in place and that clamp takes a very tiny Torx 6 (T6) screwdriver. It's easiest to do this with the charger laying down on a table rather than hanging on the wall.

5. Mount the charger on the mounting bracket. Two screws lock it onto the mount.

6. Route the 240v supply power in and tighten the lugs.

7. Set the DIP switches. D5 must be set to '0' (off). D1 through D4 can be set based on the amperage limits. If using the full 48 amps then D1 is set to '1' (on) and the position of D2, D3, and D4 don't actually matter. If using less than 48 amps (D1 is '0' / off) then D2, D3, and D4 *do* matter and the table tells you what to set.

8. The front panel LED lights connect to a wire harness ... that wire is currently taped to the inside of the cover. Remove the tape and plug in the wire harness (figure 12 in the front of the manual shows the location). The plug is keyed so it can only be plugged in one way.)

9. Do a final inspection on all those wires secured on all the lugs ... make sure they are all pretty tight. If you have 4-wire (for NEMA 14-50) make sure you cap & tuck the 'Neutral' wire away (it isn't used).

10. Put the inside cover on (the weather-sealed cover)... and all those Torx 25 screws (I think there are 10 of them)

11. There two plugs that close off any un-used access holes on the bottom.

12. Don't put the cosmetic cover on (yet). Instead, download and launch the FordChargeStation setup app. (This is NOT the Ford Pass app)

13. Turn on the power at the breaker (Smoke test! Do not let the smoke out of the box. Smoke must remain inside the box for proper function of the charger.)

14. Follow the instructions in the phone setup app. The reason you left the cosmetic cover off is because the app is going to ask you to key in an access code ... printed on a sticker on the weather-cover (so you'll want to be able to see that). Same code is also on a sticker on the front of the user's guide (but not the install guide).

15. After you key in all the info, select your WiFi network, etc. it will offer to configure the Ford Pass app with all this ... and auto-launches Ford Pass. At this point the charger will show up in Ford Pass.

I got a message that it was successful ... but for roughly the first ... 15 minutes (not exactly sure how long ... but it was a while) the Ford Pass app complained that the charger was not connected to the server. (Possibly some delays on the server-side of the configuration. Possibly it was doing a software update??). But this eventually went away on it's own and it's been great ever since.

16. Put the cosmetic cover on.

Oh... and mount the holster/cable-holder.

17. Take photos and post here!

18. Drink beer (or beverage of choice)
Tim - Why did you choose to go with the Charge Station rather than the mobile charger? For the incremental amps?
 

OttawaGuy

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Tim - Why did you choose to go with the Charge Station rather than the mobile charger? For the incremental amps?
I see the mobile charger as your back up device, safety net, your spare wheel for charging... When you are on the road or if you dedicated charger dies or malfunctions!

If you use your mobile charger and you damage it or has issues charging you're shit out of luck!
 

GoGoGadgetMachE

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OttawaGuy

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Now that I've done the install once (it took 3 hours), I could install one much faster. Note that part of my "install" was carpentry work to trim out the wall panel where I planned to install it.

You will need:

A Torx T6 bit screwdriver (very tiny) for the clamps that hold the charging cable in place.

A Torx T25 bit screwdriver for all the Torx screws that hold the weather cover (not the cosmetic cover) in place. That cover is held on with just 3 screws when you pull it out of the box ... but the rest of the screws are in a bag. When you put the cover back on you'll use all of them.

Most people probably already have the rest of the tools (tape measure, pliers, screwdrivers, allen wrench, etc.) I've bolded the Torx sizes because it's less common for someone to just have those on-hand ... pick 'em up if you don't own them.


But it really is as basic as:

1. Shut off the supply power at the breaker to make sure nothing is live during the install.

2. Decide how you want to route the supply power to the EVSE (either up through the bottom or in from the back). You'll need to cut out one of the bottom tabs if coming up from the bottom. You'll need to drill out one of the access ports on the back if bringing power in from the back.

3. Mount the metal mounting bracket.

4. Insert the charging cord through that spring whip (a bit of a fuss because the wires like to get caught on the spring), connect to the lugs and tighten. It is easiest to do this when the charger is NOT yet mounted on the wall. There's a clamp that holds the charging cord in place and that clamp takes a very tiny Torx 6 (T6) screwdriver. It's easiest to do this with the charger laying down on a table rather than hanging on the wall.

5. Mount the charger on the mounting bracket. Two screws lock it onto the mount.

6. Route the 240v supply power in and tighten the lugs.

7. Set the DIP switches. D5 must be set to '0' (off). D1 through D4 can be set based on the amperage limits. If using the full 48 amps then D1 is set to '1' (on) and the position of D2, D3, and D4 don't actually matter. If using less than 48 amps (D1 is '0' / off) then D2, D3, and D4 *do* matter and the table tells you what to set.

8. The front panel LED lights connect to a wire harness ... that wire is currently taped to the inside of the cover. Remove the tape and plug in the wire harness (figure 12 in the front of the manual shows the location). The plug is keyed so it can only be plugged in one way.)

9. Do a final inspection on all those wires secured on all the lugs ... make sure they are all pretty tight. If you have 4-wire (for NEMA 14-50) make sure you cap & tuck the 'Neutral' wire away (it isn't used).

10. Put the inside cover on (the weather-sealed cover)... and all those Torx 25 screws (I think there are 10 of them)

11. There two plugs that close off any un-used access holes on the bottom.

12. Don't put the cosmetic cover on (yet). Instead, download and launch the FordChargeStation setup app. (This is NOT the Ford Pass app)

13. Turn on the power at the breaker (Smoke test! Do not let the smoke out of the box. Smoke must remain inside the box for proper function of the charger.)

14. Follow the instructions in the phone setup app. The reason you left the cosmetic cover off is because the app is going to ask you to key in an access code ... printed on a sticker on the weather-cover (so you'll want to be able to see that). Same code is also on a sticker on the front of the user's guide (but not the install guide).

15. After you key in all the info, select your WiFi network, etc. it will offer to configure the Ford Pass app with all this ... and auto-launches Ford Pass. At this point the charger will show up in Ford Pass.

I got a message that it was successful ... but for roughly the first ... 15 minutes (not exactly sure how long ... but it was a while) the Ford Pass app complained that the charger was not connected to the server. (Possibly some delays on the server-side of the configuration. Possibly it was doing a software update??). But this eventually went away on it's own and it's been great ever since.

16. Put the cosmetic cover on.

Oh... and mount the holster/cable-holder.

17. Take photos and post here!

18. Drink beer (or beverage of choice)

Great post, I'll just add one thing


1612472556272.png




LOL!
 
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TheVirtualTim

TheVirtualTim

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Tim - Why did you choose to go with the Charge Station rather than the mobile charger? For the incremental amps?
It was only partly the incremental amps ... but mostly it was because to get the best Time of Use charging rate I had to install a separate electric meter and that's a 125 amp meter. The ONLY thing you can do with that power is charger a car. They wont let me connect so much as a night light ... no garage door openers, lights, etc. can be powered. So I figure... I have a 125 amps ... may as well install two 60 amp breakers ... enough to power two 48 amp chargers.

Also... I really like knowing that the mobile charger is *always* in the car. If I'm away from home and need a charge ... e.g. visiting a friend, or headed up to the marina and I can find a place to plug in, I'll have the charger "with me". I didn't want to remember to roll up the charger and pack it in the car.

Technically the 48 amp charger should be able to completely recharge a dead car in something like 10 hours. But I don't realistically ever expect to roll into my garage with 1% power remaining. Also, I probably wont typically charge above 80% unless I'm planning to go somewhere far. So a 32 amp charger (on a 40 amp breaker) would be more than enough for daily use.
 

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Now that I've done the install once (it took 3 hours), I could install one much faster. Note that part of my "install" was carpentry work to trim out the wall panel where I planned to install it.

You will need:

A Torx T6 bit screwdriver (very tiny) for the clamps that hold the charging cable in place.

A Torx T25 bit screwdriver for all the Torx screws that hold the weather cover (not the cosmetic cover) in place. That cover is held on with just 3 screws when you pull it out of the box ... but the rest of the screws are in a bag. When you put the cover back on you'll use all of them.

Most people probably already have the rest of the tools (tape measure, pliers, screwdrivers, allen wrench, etc.) I've bolded the Torx sizes because it's less common for someone to just have those on-hand ... pick 'em up if you don't own them.


But it really is as basic as:

1. Shut off the supply power at the breaker to make sure nothing is live during the install.

2. Decide how you want to route the supply power to the EVSE (either up through the bottom or in from the back). You'll need to cut out one of the bottom tabs if coming up from the bottom. You'll need to drill out one of the access ports on the back if bringing power in from the back.

3. Mount the metal mounting bracket.

4. Insert the charging cord through that spring whip (a bit of a fuss because the wires like to get caught on the spring), connect to the lugs and tighten. It is easiest to do this when the charger is NOT yet mounted on the wall. There's a clamp that holds the charging cord in place and that clamp takes a very tiny Torx 6 (T6) screwdriver. It's easiest to do this with the charger laying down on a table rather than hanging on the wall.

5. Mount the charger on the mounting bracket. Two screws lock it onto the mount.

6. Route the 240v supply power in and tighten the lugs.

7. Set the DIP switches. D5 must be set to '0' (off). D1 through D4 can be set based on the amperage limits. If using the full 48 amps then D1 is set to '1' (on) and the position of D2, D3, and D4 don't actually matter. If using less than 48 amps (D1 is '0' / off) then D2, D3, and D4 *do* matter and the table tells you what to set.

8. The front panel LED lights connect to a wire harness ... that wire is currently taped to the inside of the cover. Remove the tape and plug in the wire harness (figure 12 in the front of the manual shows the location). The plug is keyed so it can only be plugged in one way.)

9. Do a final inspection on all those wires secured on all the lugs ... make sure they are all pretty tight. If you have 4-wire (for NEMA 14-50) make sure you cap & tuck the 'Neutral' wire away (it isn't used).

10. Put the inside cover on (the weather-sealed cover)... and all those Torx 25 screws (I think there are 10 of them)

11. There two plugs that close off any un-used access holes on the bottom.

12. Don't put the cosmetic cover on (yet). Instead, download and launch the FordChargeStation setup app. (This is NOT the Ford Pass app)

13. Turn on the power at the breaker (Smoke test! Do not let the smoke out of the box. Smoke must remain inside the box for proper function of the charger.)

14. Follow the instructions in the phone setup app. The reason you left the cosmetic cover off is because the app is going to ask you to key in an access code ... printed on a sticker on the weather-cover (so you'll want to be able to see that). Same code is also on a sticker on the front of the user's guide (but not the install guide).

15. After you key in all the info, select your WiFi network, etc. it will offer to configure the Ford Pass app with all this ... and auto-launches Ford Pass. At this point the charger will show up in Ford Pass.

I got a message that it was successful ... but for roughly the first ... 15 minutes (not exactly sure how long ... but it was a while) the Ford Pass app complained that the charger was not connected to the server. (Possibly some delays on the server-side of the configuration. Possibly it was doing a software update??). But this eventually went away on it's own and it's been great ever since.

16. Put the cosmetic cover on.

Oh... and mount the holster/cable-holder.

17. Take photos and post here!

18. Drink beer (or beverage of choice)
Tim..

Thanks for the great write-up. I received mine yesterday and electrician here tomorrow with another 3 weeks to wait for the car

In reading the installation instruction book that came with the charger, those instruction say nothing about using the Connected charger app. Rather, they just say to configure the charger in the FordPass app.

I think I'll just follow your instructions since they worked.
 
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TheVirtualTim

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Tim..

Thanks for the great write-up. I received mine yesterday and electrician here tomorrow with another 3 weeks to wait for the car

In reading the installation instruction book that came with the charger, those instruction say nothing about using the Connected charger app. Rather, they just say to configure the charger in the FordPass app.

I think I'll just follow your instructions since they worked.
The app is "Ford Charge Station Setup"

IMG_1650.PNG


As the name implies, it is only used to do the setup. It will prompt you to link to the charger via Bluetooth (just so your phone can talk to it) and from there it will prompt you through getting onto your WiFi network, entering the access code of the charger, and ultimately it will launch the Ford Pass app and automatically add the charger to it.

From there on out you only need the Ford Pass app (unless you want to reconfigure the charger ... e.g. change WiFi networks, etc.) but you wont use the setup app to use the charger.
 

macchiaz-o

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Would someone mind posting a photo of the tech specs? I'm interested in the operating temperature range.

Thank you!
 

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Would someone mind posting a photo of the tech specs? I'm interested in the operating temperature range.

Thank you!
specs.jpg

Temp Warnings.jpg


Crappy photography, but here you go - with an installation warning.
 

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