Ford Power-Up OTA Update Software 3.6.2

[kennethjk]

Got 3.6.2 the other day and as I’ve said before car now charges to 100% and Fordpass will not connect with the car. I deleted it and added Fordpass again but same problem.

don’t know if this is related to the new Ford Pass from a few days ago or 3.6.2.

PAAK still works but I still am still having profile issues,

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[Logal727]

How long till I get worried my OTA is down? Last update to 3.5.4.2 was 2 Nov and nothing since. 21 Job 2 non EA.

I’m finding the rollout is different among different groups. I’m seeing people get 3.6.2 throughly 4.1.2 in consecutive days while I just got 3.6.2 and it didn’t queue up 4.1.1 for me the next day. It’s all different per specific vehicle. If all your connectivity on the car works I don’t see why you wouldn’t get it eventually, but that’s just an optimistic guess.

 

[fpasta]

Since the update, my entertainment apps super laggy not even finished loading. Tried rebooting. Let me reporr again later.

 

[MachEnthusiast]

Should I be worried that this update has failed to install every single night for over a week? I had the same issue with 3.6.1 and that lasted nearly 2 months before one day, magically, it just worked. The details on what we need to do for meeting preconditions are vague. But I'm always parked, have a high battery charge, am usually plugged in, am close to a mesh wifi connection at my home, have all doors closed and lights off... and it fails overnight every time.

Each morning I wake up to a message in the app that says "Help us install your new Ford Power-Up" with a non-useful link to the above precondition "details."

Edit: I should add that I'm currently on 3.6.1 as far as I can tell, and I AM in the EA.

 

[Mach-Lee]

Should I be worried that this update has failed to install every single night for over a week? I had the same issue with 3.6.1 and that lasted nearly 2 months before one day, magically, it just worked. The details on what we need to do for meeting preconditions are vague. But I'm always parked, have a high battery charge, am usually plugged in, am close to a mesh wifi connection at my home, have all doors closed and lights off... and it fails overnight every time.

Each morning I wake up to a message in the app that says "Help us install your new Ford Power-Up" with a non-useful link to the above precondition "details."

Every 3.6.2 failure I've seen so far has been because of a low 12V battery. Leave the car on for 1+ hour (disable auto shutdown) to charge the 12V battery up, then manually start the update. Turn off, close, lock, and go inside.

The way some people use their cars (short or infrequent trips), 12V accessories, or 3rd party apps causes the 12V battery to run low on some vehicles which makes installing this update difficult.

 

[MachEnthusiast]

Every 3.6.2 failure I've seen so far has been because of a low 12V battery. Leave the car on for 1+ hour (disable auto shutdown) to charge the 12V battery up, then manually start the update. Turn off, close, lock, and go inside.

I'll try that. I should note that I drive almost every day so it would be a little surprising to be low on the 12V. But I guess anything is worth a try.

 

[Shayne]

Every 3.6.2 failure I've seen so far has been because of a low 12V battery. Leave the car on for 1+ hour (disable auto shutdown) to charge the 12V battery up, then manually start the update. Turn off, close, lock, and go inside.

The way some people use their cars (short or infrequent trips), 12V accessories, or 3rd party apps causes the 12V battery to run low on some vehicles which makes installing this update difficult.

Last winter when I sat and watched the 12V on an OBD2 at start it charged the 12V with good amps (double digits) for 20 to 30 minutes and then the draw really slows down (a wall 1 - 2 amps). Looked to me like it was time based and not too dependent on the 12V soc. Not sure if that has changed but what would also work is to start it a couple of times for 30 minutes with some time in between. Just leave the timer on, let it sleep for a bit in between and go out and start it a couple of times. From what I saw that should work.

 

[Shayne]

I'll try that. I should note that I drive almost every day so it would be a little surprising to be low on the 12V. But I guess anything is worth a try.

A plug in 12 v display is less than $20 and can be handy to have around. Plugs inside the center console and will display the voltage of your 12V at different states. Would take the guess work out of it.

 

[Mach-Lee]

Last winter when I sat and watched the 12V on an OBD2 at start it charged the 12V with good amps (double digits) for 20 to 30 minutes and then the draw really slows down (a wall 1 - 2 amps). Looked to me like it was time based and not too dependent on the 12V soc. Not sure if that has changed but what would also work is to start it a couple of times for 30 minutes with some time in between. Just leave the timer on, let it sleep for a bit in between and go out and start it a couple of times. From what I saw that should work.

It's not a timer, it's the absorption characteristic of a battery. As it get full it takes on less current. Please leave the vehicle on for 1+hour continuously rather than breaking it up into separate sessions, that will be less effective since it will drain in between. That will not make it go faster.

Here is a graph of the 12V battery charging. You can see it took more than 1 hour to go from 45% to 80%, and 1 hour 40 minutes to go from 45% to 85%. If you want to be extra safe, leave it on for 2 hours and that should get it high enough in almost every case. You can see the charging current drops down low, but it's a time-limited process to raise the SoC up past 80%. There are no walls here, only curves.

BTW, the voltage was held constant at 14.8-15.0V during the entire duration of this charge session. You can't charge it any faster than this.

I think Ford has room for improvement here, the update process should charge up the 12V battery automatically before an update is scheduled, rather than requiring the user to do this manually if they want their update to succeed.

 

[Shayne]

It's not a timer, it's the absorption characteristic of a battery. As it get full it takes on less current. Please leave the vehicle on for 1+hour continuously rather than breaking it up into separate sessions, that will be less effective since it will drain in between. That will not make it go faster.

Here is a graph of the 12V battery charging. You can see it took more than 1 hour to go from 45% to 80%, and 1 hour 40 minutes to go from 45% to 85%. If you want to be extra safe, leave it on for 2 hours and that should get it high enough in almost every case. You can see the charging current drops down low, but it's a time-limited process to raise the SoC up past 80%. There are no walls here, only curves.

BTW, the voltage was held constant at 14.8-15.0V during the entire duration of this charge session. You can't charge it any faster than this.

Your horizontal scale time of day minutes? Is that graph of the car or a charger charging a battery?

Even now it is working better I never see the 12V over 12.3 to 12.5 and not near 85% for an AGM.

Wonder if you do two curves of the car charging the battery the second with a rest in between then compare it to the second half to an hour continuous.

 

[Guy]

Since 3.6.2 my GOM is useless. It reset with each recharge so I see 460 km range at -10C while I know my real range is about 270 km at that temp. And the GOM was accurate and reliable before 3.6.2. Big step backwards.

 

[Logal727]

It's not a timer, it's the absorption characteristic of a battery. As it get full it takes on less current. Please leave the vehicle on for 1+hour continuously rather than breaking it up into separate sessions, that will be less effective since it will drain in between. That will not make it go faster.

Here is a graph of the 12V battery charging. You can see it took more than 1 hour to go from 45% to 80%, and 1 hour 40 minutes to go from 45% to 85%. If you want to be extra safe, leave it on for 2 hours and that should get it high enough in almost every case. You can see the charging current drops down low, but it's a time-limited process to raise the SoC up past 80%. There are no walls here, only curves.

BTW, the voltage was held constant at 14.8-15.0V during the entire duration of this charge session. You can't charge it any faster than this.

I think Ford has room for improvement here, the update process should charge up the 12V battery automatically before an update is scheduled, rather than requiring the user to do this manually if they want their update to succeed.

During these inhibit updates I always hear a high pitched whirring sound that lasts most of the process, is this the AC DC converter?

 

[RonOinAZ]

I triggered the "update now" feature when 3.6.2 became available to me on Jan 20 but it failed the first time so I went to the car and triggered the installation again. The 2nd attempt was successful. The first time I charged the car after the 3.6.2 update, it stopped charging at 76% rather than its target of 80% and I received a message from FordPass that the car wasn't connected to my JuiceBox charging station, which it was. I unplugged the car to run an errand and when I got back, I plugged it in again. It started charging immediately and this time, for the first time in months, JuiceNet notifications started working gain. The car successfully charged to 80% and stopped charging.

I'm not sure if JuiceNet/JuiceBox software or the 3.6.2 update cause the charging to stop prematurely or if 3.6.2 did something that caused it and caused the JuiceNet to resume pushing messages as it should. In any case, everything seems to be working correctly now.

 

[Mach-Lee]

During these inhibit updates I always hear a high pitched whirring sound that lasts most of the process, is this the AC DC converter?

Coolant and/or oil pumps running in failsafe mode during programming.

 

[MachEnthusiast]

Welp, another failure. I followed advice above and ran my car in my driveway for an hour. Yes I made sure the auto shutoff at 30 minutes was off. I did without being plugged in (since my car was charged at 80% already). Then I went into the car, turned it off after hitting "Update Now." I pulled even closer to my garage than I ever have just to make extra sure I was close to my wifi, even though I believe the update is already downloaded and just failing to install.

Anything new to try? I really wish that the failures could give me a little more detail as to what HAPPENED to cause the failure. It just says it didn't work and directs me to a page I find pretty useless on ford.com

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