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Ford's order processing, deliveries, software updates. etc. are never on any schedule, but their software settings wants you to have your life scheduled. Adding "engineering" to "Software" is such disgrace to engineering. Engineering specifications are built before engineering the actual product, software specifications are never built before "engineering" the actual product. Irony is that software is actually more complex to get right due to a number of success and failure use cases.
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Mawby

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Ford, just give us a "precondition now" button in the FordPass app!
If it allowed me to setup in FordPass. It's broken all the time stating error.
 

Shayne

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Ford, just give us a "precondition now" button in the FordPass app!
How would that exactly work since the time required varies, is dependent on the ambient temperature and it does the cabin in the last 15 minutes? I have seen it run for different times up to about 1.5 hours when real cold and is based on the exterior temperatures. I have no idea how Ford's algorithm could work with a single button press and not input what time you are leaving at. Temperature determines time so an end time is required. They could just make what they have work for me.

This is one of those no brainer features that should have been added on year one.
Has always been there since day 1 but recently is not as consistent.

With this polar vortex incoming, should i precondition to preserve the battery even if I don’t plan on driving through snowmageddon?
Just leave it plugged into L2 Ford should take care of that for you automatically without you setting anything if all is working right. It will automatically come on to maintain itself but not warm enough for driving. You should precondition before driving any distance but should not be required just sitting there.

Does it save my amp to warm it up before I crank the pre-amp is the question ;). Sounds better as well as being easier on it. Unless you are cheap when it comes to electricity pre-conditioning before hitting the highway is the no brainer. Try it both ways and pick which drive you prefer.
 

acosmichippo

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All electric resistance heaters (including the E-Heat) are essentially 100% efficient - all input power is converted to heat. Hydronic oil-filled heaters simply store and evenly dissipate the heat. They do not improve efficiency.
saying electrical resistance heating is 100% efficient is a little misleading since there are much more efficient forms of heating, like heat pumps. They use less energy to heat the same amount since they are not "creating" heat, just moving it around.
 

acosmichippo

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How would that exactly work since the time required varies, is dependent on the ambient temperature and it does the cabin in the last 15 minutes? I have seen it run for different times up to about 1.5 hours when real cold and is based on the exterior temperatures. I have no idea how Ford's algorithm could work with a single button press and not input what time you are leaving at. Temperature determines time so an end time is required. They could just make what they have work for me.
"precondition now" would simply be a best effort kind of thing. It's up to the user to start it early enough to be ready before they need to leave.

Although I agree a single-use scheduled departure time outside of the recurring schedule would also be good.
 


Shayne

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"precondition now" would simply be a best effort kind of thing. It's up to the user to start it early enough to be ready before they need to leave.

Although I agree a single-use scheduled departure time outside of the recurring schedule would also be good.
But it would never be accurate hitting it with your best guess when it would be ready. Really makes no sense. They could make the schedule easier but see no out from plugging in a time when you want it to be finished. Thought waves. ;)

I can manage with the schedule they have right now just needs to work.
 

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How would that exactly work since the time required varies, is dependent on the ambient temperature and it does the cabin in the last 15 minutes? I have seen it run for different times up to about 1.5 hours when real cold and is based on the exterior temperatures. I have no idea how Ford's algorithm could work with a single button press and not input what time you are leaving at. Temperature determines time so an end time is required. They could just make what they have work for me.
I think there’s a happy medium there. A button could prompt you for when you plan to leave and anything less than 30 minutes doesn’t activate it. The algorithm could figure out how much preconditioning is needed to make it worthwhile.
While some of us don’t have daily schedules that would make the scheduling option handy, sometimes we know when we’re leaving for somewhere in, say, an hour or so and it would be nice to just have an option for “on demand”.
 

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I think there’s a happy medium there. A button could prompt you for when you plan to leave and anything less than 30 minutes doesn’t activate it. The algorithm could figure out how much preconditioning is needed to make it worthwhile.
While some of us don’t have daily schedules that would make the scheduling option handy, sometimes we know when we’re leaving for somewhere in, say, an hour or so and it would be nice to just have an option for “on demand”.
I do not have a daily schedule either but filling in the current schedule is quick and easy. Handy when it works in the app. I delete the last and add the new. Only problem with it right now is it does not work consistently so it becomes useless and frustrating. I am locked out of some of the cars system and no fordpass for the last couple of weeks so have no idea if there is any progress with departure schedule. It would be nice seeing what they have now work before moving on to better.
 

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saying electrical resistance heating is 100% efficient is a little misleading since there are much more efficient forms of heating, like heat pumps. They use less energy to heat the same amount since they are not "creating" heat, just moving it around.
It’s not misleading at all, it’s physics. Electrical resistance heat converts 100% of electrical energy to heat. It is, by definition, 100% efficient.
A heat pump is entirely different technology. It’s performance is measured in COP (coefficient of performance) which is the ratio of effective heating or cooling to energy consumed. A heat pump with a COP of 5 provides 5 times as much heat as a 100% efficient resistance heater.
 

acosmichippo

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i understand what you meant and i didn’t say you were incorrect. i said your earlier comment was misleading, which i stand by, for the reasons you just mentioned. it’s cleared up so we can move on.
 

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It’s not misleading at all, it’s physics. Electrical resistance heat converts 100% of electrical energy to heat. It is, by definition, 100% efficient.
A heat pump is entirely different technology. It’s performance is measured in COP (coefficient of performance) which is the ratio of effective heating or cooling to energy consumed. A heat pump with a COP of 5 provides 5 times as much heat as a 100% efficient resistance heater.
My awd extended range has all sorts of range and is not a problem until below around -20C (-5F) where travel range starts to get tight for our current charger spacing. Thinking a heat pump has no value in solving that problem. Helping with range at -10C (15F) really is of no great value here as that is not the problem. My take is a heat pump is over hyped for what it does and does nothing for range when "cold".
 

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I had my first experience where pre conditioning probably would have helped.

Drove to my brother in laws on the 23rd. Left the 50-60 degree garage at 100% and drove in 20 degree temps the 169 miles to his house, arriving with 40% remaining.

Charging is not simple at his house and involves dropping the car off at the nearby college L2 charger.

I was able to get the car up to 93% but the 5 mile drive back to his house dropped that to 89%. It stayed plugged in to the 110 outlet until we left a few hours later, back to 93%.

At this point the car had been out in 20 degree weather for 2 days.

We started the drive home the 24th with the navigation saying we did not need to stop and a 30 mile buffer.

That 30 mile buffer slowly was reduced to 8 miles and the car wanted to add a stop. Not wanting to stop and charge at midnight on Christmas Eve, we opted to turn off the heater about 60 miles from home. We left the heater off until we were about 20 miles from home and had a 15 mile buffer. I had been driving the speed limit since we left his house never exceeding 70 mph.

We ended up at home with 7% remaining meaning it took 60% to get there and 86% to get home. Starting out with a cold battery really hurt our range.

I’m not sure how I would have preconditioned though without access to an L2 charger at his house.
 

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My awd extended range has all sorts of range and is not a problem until below around -20C (-5F) where travel range starts to get tight for our current charger spacing. Thinking a heat pump has no value in solving that problem. Helping with range at -10C (15F) really is of no great value here as that is not the problem. My take is a heat pump is over hyped for what it does and does nothing for range when "cold".
I agree with you.
If your normal drive was always between 30 and 50F, and you needed absolute maximum range, a heat pump could be beneficial. That not my use case (or yours).
 

Mach-Lee

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...it took 60% to get there and 86% to get home. Starting out with a cold battery really hurt our range.

I’m not sure how I would have preconditioned though without access to an L2 charger at his house.
Yes, that can be the difference due to the warm-up penalty and the reduced pack capacity due to the cold.

Here's what I would have done in your situation. Set a departure time for when you picked up the car from the L2 charger at the college. That would have gotten the pack and cabin warmed up so it would have only dropped to 91% on the way back. Plug in L1, and set another departure time for 30 minutes before you want to leave. Then remote start 15 minutes before leaving to fully warm the cabin. That combo probably would have ensured your pack and cabin was somewhat warm for the trip back. You would have probably had an extra 20-30 miles of range then.
 

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Yes, that can be the difference due to the warm-up penalty and the reduced pack capacity due to the cold.

Here's what I would have done in your situation. Set a departure time for when you picked up the car from the L2 charger at the college. That would have gotten the pack and cabin warmed up so it would have only dropped to 91% on the way back. Plug in L1, and set another departure time for 30 minutes before you want to leave. Then remote start 15 minutes before leaving to fully warm the cabin. That combo probably would have ensured your pack and cabin was somewhat warm for the trip back. You would have probably had an extra 20-30 miles of range then.
I have never taken the time to figure out how to set a departure time, perhaps I should.

I didn't bother this time because I was not sure if the 32A at 208 volt would be better served putting energy into the battery or warming the battery? It worked out to about 5% per hour. If an hour was spent warming the battery that would have made a difference in the percentage reached.

I feel like if I had set a departure time the battery would not have made it to 93% at pickup and would have instead been around 89%.

Wouldn't a departure time on L1 again drain the battery as the heater draws 4000-5000 watts and L1 only delivers 1440 watts?

Would the pack warming be a net positive effect on the battery range despite the reduced starting percentage?
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