[Guide] Better Jump Point Access (Battery Access)

[DevSecOps]

First of all, I have @horsiedad to thank 100% for this idea as I got the idea from him and I have to credit the original creator of the idea @dtbaker61 and his post here. I didn't know that @dtbaker61 had originally done this. My way was different than his so credits to him, but here's a different take at the same thing.

The jump point access to the MME is ridiculously troublesome to get to... It's not hard to get to it, but it's not something you want to do when you need access to it. It requires the removal of a couple plastic trim pieces in the frunk. If you're unlucky enough like me you'll break the clip on the trim piece and swear at Ford for 30 minutes straight.

So let's get into to it (Click on pictures to expand them):

Step 1 - Remove the plastic trim pieces. This starts with the plastic trim piece along the upper part of the Frunk where the windshield is. Then remove the plastic trim on the right hand side of the Frunk where the + and - are imprinted into the plastic.

Try not to break the plastic clip like I did, which I had to JB Weld back on.

Step 2 - Mark the location of the pilot holes on the underside of the right hand trim piece and then drill them with a small drill bit.

• The ground pole is located along side the second stabilizer. Holding your drill bit along the stabilizer 3/8" from the lower edge is where to drill the pilot hole
• The positive point is located 7/16" above the centerline of the clip in the below picture and 2 1/2" from the centerline moving towards the center of the trim.

Step 3 - Turn the trim piece over and drill 2" holes where the pilots are located with a hole saw
Step 4 - Ream the holes. I used a ream tool for copper pipe which works really well.

Step 5 - Cut the stabilizer tabs in the back at the negiative jump point. You have to cut these back a bit because they will interfere with the plug and prevent it from grabbing if you don't.

Step 6 - Sand the holes. I used a 150 grit and followed it with a wet 1000.
Step 7 - Put the car back together and put the plugs in! The plugs can be obtained from Amazon. Just search for 2" plugs. Make sure you get some that will work on 1/8" thick plastic.

NOTE: A note for anyone who got this far. There are templates provided in this thread from other users. The difference between the two methods (mine vs theirs) is the following. You can decide which method you prefer.

My Method: Holes are located directly above the jump points. The center of the hole is center with the jump points. This means that the + icon is sacrificed.

Other Method: Holes are offset and are not centered on the jump points. Both the - and + icons are spared.

 

[horsiedad]

First of all, I have @horsiedad to thank 100% for this idea. It was completely his idea and I'm just making a short guide to help people do this the correct way!

Thanks for the shout-out, but it wasn't originally my idea. I saw it elsewhere on the forum. FWIW, I did not remove any of the plastic shrouding. I just lined up the holes by sight based on other people's pictures and used a two-inch hole saw. Easy-peasy.

 

[DevSecOps]

Thanks for the shout-out, but it wasn't originally my idea. I saw it elsewhere on the forum. FWIW, I did not remove any of the plastic shrouding. I just lined up the holes by sight based on other people's pictures and used a two-inch hole saw. Easy-peasy.

Well I got it from you, so credit to you from me

I figured I would measure it out and make a guide so that the next person doesn't have to figure it out like we did. I wouldn't have eye balled it, so you're a braver soul than I.

Thanks again!

 

[williswong]

Nice mod! Was curious if a 2 inch diameter is enough to fit most jumper cable connectors?

 

[DevSecOps]

Nice mod! Was curious if a 2 inch diameter is enough to fit most jumper cable connectors?

It fits mine for the power supply that I use for updating the car. I'm not sure if all cables will be the same. I think you could maybe, emphasis on maybe, go 2.5". At 2" you are really close to the part of the plastic that dips down to that fill cap on the positive and on the negative you'll go under the upper trim piece if you go larger. So you might be able to get a little more out of it.

 

[williswong]

It fits mine for the power supply that I use for updating the car. I'm not sure if all cables will be the same. I think you could maybe, emphasis on maybe, go 2.5". At 2" you are really close to the part of the plastic that dips down to that fill cap on the positive and on the negative you'll go under the upper trim piece if you go larger. So you might be able to get a little more out of it.

Any chance you can take a pic of the underside of the trim piece with the completed holes? Just curious to see the completed work

 

[DevSecOps]

Any chance you can take a pic of the underside of the trim piece with the completed holes? Just curious to see the completed work

You mean with the trim removed from the car or with the car completely put back together?

 

[williswong]

You mean with the trim removed from the car or with the car completely put back together?

Removed if You don’t mind. No rush

 

[DevSecOps]

@williswong I might get around to it, but I don't want to risk the JB Weld plastic epoxy for 72 hours since I just repaired that today. The picture in step 5 is the underside after it was complete. I know it's not both holes, but that's the only underside picture I took.

 

[Mach-Lee]

I wonder if it would be worth installing something like this in the wall of the frunk:

https://powerwerx.com/panelpole-panel-mount-powerpole-black-single

You could upgrade to 45A contacts if your supply is more than 30A. It could have other uses as well, such as powering a small 300W inverter for emergency use.

 

[DevSecOps]

I wonder if it would be worth installing something like this in the wall of the frunk:

I originally thought about that as I have one similar installed on a comms box at my property gate. I also thought about using the battery leads that go to the bumper. The reason I didn't use either is because I don't know the implications of not using the jump points for power supply during updates, since that's the purpose that I'm trying to achieve. I also didn't want to have to splice into the cars wiring at those jump points. I figured cutting plastic was easier ?

You are the forum battery wizard so I'm sure you would probably feel more comfy tackling something like that.

 

[markboris]

Thanks for the shout-out, but it wasn't originally my idea. I saw it elsewhere on the forum.

Yes, Dan did a write up on this back in March https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/how-to-add-access-ports-for-lvb-connection-points.4107/

It is interesting to see the different ways people use to achieve the same result though. When I did mine, I wanted to make sure I still saw the "+" symbol on the panel when I got done drilling the hole which most people seem to eliminate because they want to be right over the positive terminal connection. I drilled my hole slightly to the right so I could retain that symbol and my clamp fits down inside and connects to that positive terminal.

 

[SashaLondon]

How did you get the + - on the plastic?

 

[markboris]

How did you get the + - on the plastic?

The panel cover came this way from the factory. You don't have this on yours?

 

[SashaLondon]

I Will look later, I cant remember now.

Sponsored