Jim622

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I just found this video.

Shows everything about the battery components.

What do you think?


@Administrator please delete, if already posted
He is annoying to watch. He keeps repeating everything multiple times. The video would be 10 minutes long if he went through it at a comfortable pace.
 
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Benjamin Kegele

Benjamin Kegele

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He is annoying to watch. He keeps repeating everything multiple times. The video would be 10 minutes long if he went through it at a comfortable pace.
Just speed up the video
 
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ridgebackpilot

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Very interesting . Thanks for posting this video!
 


hawkeye3point1

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Thanks for putting this up. I watched all of his Volt vids years ago and was wondering when he would get a MME to dissect, very informative.
Mystery solved on what the twisted wire pair some have observed in the doors are for and now I can see where that beauty cover retainer I lost is hiding underneath the Frunk.
 

Mach-Lee

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Pretty good overview. There are a couple technical errors in the video:
  • The 48A on-board charger is 11.5 kW, not 10.5 kW
  • The DC/DC is 220A on the GT, not 160A
  • The heater core uses the battery coolant reservoir, not the motor electronics reservoir
  • The motor electronics and the battery/heater loops are completely isolated, so the motor waste heat cannot be used to heat the cabin (common myth due to poor/incorrect wording in service manual)
  • The chiller is for cooling the battery only, it cannot be used to cool power electronics (due to above)
  • The 4-way valve is for switching the heater core in and out of the battery loop, not tying the motor electronics and battery loops together
 
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Benjamin Kegele

Benjamin Kegele

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Pretty good overview. There are a couple technical errors in the video:
  • The 48A on-board charger is 11.5 kW, not 10.5 kW
  • The DC/DC is 220A on the GT, not 160A
  • The heater core uses the battery coolant reservoir, not the motor electronics reservoir
  • The motor electronics and the battery/heater loops are completely isolated, so the motor waste heat cannot be used to heat the cabin (common myth due to poor/incorrect wording in service manual)
  • The chiller is for cooling the battery only, it cannot be used to cool power electronics (due to above)
  • The 4-way valve is for switching the heater core in and out of the battery loop, not tying the motor electronics and battery loops together
Very interesting. Did you comment to the video as well? He is usually very open to critism
 

Logal727

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Thanks for putting this up. I watched all of his Volt vids years ago and was wondering when he would get a MME to dissect, very informative.
Mystery solved on what the twisted wire pair some have observed in the doors are for and now I can see where that beauty cover retainer I lost is hiding underneath the Frunk.
Don’t have time to watch, what’s the wire for?
 

Mathington

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Pretty good overview. There are a couple technical errors in the video:
  • The 48A on-board charger is 11.5 kW, not 10.5 kW
  • The DC/DC is 220A on the GT, not 160A
  • The heater core uses the battery coolant reservoir, not the motor electronics reservoir
  • The motor electronics and the battery/heater loops are completely isolated, so the motor waste heat cannot be used to heat the cabin (common myth due to poor/incorrect wording in service manual)
  • The chiller is for cooling the battery only, it cannot be used to cool power electronics (due to above)
  • The 4-way valve is for switching the heater core in and out of the battery loop, not tying the motor electronics and battery loops together
Seems like there may be some opportunity for optimization in the cooling system? Wouldn't it be better to have the motor electronics and battery thermal management to be together instead of isolated?
 

Mach-Lee

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Seems like there may be some opportunity for optimization in the cooling system? Wouldn't it be better to have the motor electronics and battery thermal management to be together instead of isolated?
It makes more sense to me to have the systems separated. The temp ranges are too different to be useful. Battery and cabin likes to be around 25°C and power electronics are fine anywhere between -25 to 60°C. In the winter the motors will not get warm enough to heat the cabin for long. During cruise there is very little waste heat generated due to the efficiency of the motors and battery. No need to chill power electronics when cooling to the ambient temp will do.

In summary, there are only very limited times in which tying the loops together would be beneficial, so it makes more sense to keep them isolated.

 

 
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