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not too bad.... they fit.

if you go bigger than 2" hole, it will be hard to find a plug. I thought about cutting a door and adding a hinge, but that's more involved than a hole saw on a drill. ;)
I’m thinking about buying a second cover and experimenting with it.
 

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yes, very neat, BUT small ga wire intended only for light charge current during FDRS or trickle charge. My goal was to use 2ga wire of up to 1500watt power output.
I chose to run smaller gauge wire. You can attach some really big cables to that jump point. That jump point is sufficient to crank over a 600+ cube engine with 14:1 compression if you run big enough cables. I’ve personally spun some 535” engines over with one of those through 14’ of cable in the car, plus the length of the jumpers. 🤔🐩
 

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This might have been answered in the previous 18 pages, and I've looked through 70% of them.

Can these holes be drilled CAREFULLY and SLOWLY without having to remove the frunk panel and drilled in place? The 2 inch saw is wider than the contact points, so if one doesn't push too hard, the saw should do its thing. No?
 
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SteveMach-ee

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This might have been answered in the previous 18 pages, and I've looked through 70% of them.

Can these holes be drilled CAREFULLY and SLOWLY without having to remove the frunk panel and drilled from the bottom? The 2 inch saw is wider than the contact points, so if one doesn't push too hard, the saw should do its thing. No?
I would not recommend doing it in place. I drilled them on my work bench supported by some wood blocks and rags. I might have gently clamped it. One reason I didn't want plastic bits to shoot all over and into the vent holes. Yes drill carefully but not super slow because you will be going through reinforcement ribs not just a flat plate.

Also I would make 2.5" holes and use plugs like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MN6GQIY

Ford Mustang Mach-E How to DIY - add access holes for LVB 12v battery connection points & HV Disconnect Relay for Safety 20250111_130151
 

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I would not recommend doing it in place. I drilled them on my work bench supported by some wood blocks and rags. I might have gently clamped it. One reason I didn't want plastic bits to shoot all over and into the vent holes. Yes drill carefully but not super slow because you will be going through reinforcement ribs not just a flat plate.

Also I would make 2.5" holes and use plugs like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MN6GQIY

20250111_130151.jpg
Thank you Steve. That looks awesome. I see that you didn't drill the 3rd hole for the disconnect.
 

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This might have been answered in the previous 18 pages, and I've looked through 70% of them.

Can these holes be drilled CAREFULLY and SLOWLY without having to remove the frunk panel and drilled in place? The 2 inch saw is wider than the contact points, so if one doesn't push too hard, the saw should do its thing. No?
I've been present when the panels were hole sawed while in place. If you're careful you will only leave plastic shavings in the car. Since this isn't the route I took, I personally have not done this. I took my panels out since I was affixing machine screw receivers for fastening my jump point and reinforcing the bosses around the machine screw receivers. 😁🐩
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