How to DIY - add access holes for LVB 12v battery connection points & HV Disconnect Relay for Safety

[Rpgonzalez]

I put as many pictures as I could find into one PDF, printed it and then took it out to the car. Using the + and - signs (and the PDF) as references, I just cowboyed it. Note: I used a 2.5" and due to avoiding the strut brace and giving me space so that the caps fit, I got super close to the high voltage disconnect. I mean, not really because I drilled slow, but a little more to the left and with reckless drilling, I could have had a big problem. The up side, I can (sort of) access the high voltage disconnect using the - side hole.

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[dtbaker61]

I put as many pictures as I could find into one PDF, printed it and then took it out to the car. Using the + and - signs (and the PDF) as references, I just cowboyed it. Note: I used a 2.5" and due to avoiding the strut brace and giving me space so that the caps fit, I got super close to the high voltage disconnect. I mean, not really because I drilled slow, but a little more to the left and with reckless drilling, I could have had a big problem. The up side, I can (sort of) access the high voltage disconnect using the - side hole.

so.... I suggest using 1-7/8" hole saw, which works perfectly for 2" hole plugs.
I also suggest not drilling over the HV disconnect without popping up the cover a little so you don't run the risk of pilot drill into the HV disconnect.

 

[River Rat]

so.... I suggest using 1-7/8" hole saw, which works perfectly for 2" hole plugs.
I also suggest not drilling over the HV disconnect without popping up the cover a little so you don't run the risk of pilot drill into the HV disconnect.

Any recommendation on where to get the hole plugs?

 

[dtbaker61]

Any recommendation on where to get the hole plugs?

top post has a link, or ANY decent hardware store.

 

[FordFamily]

I did a little exploring under the panels in the Frunk, and decided to modify the panel covering the LVB terminal connection points... used for jump starting a dead, trickle charging, adding a heating blanket, or connecting an external loads such as a 12vDC->120vAC inverter for 'external loads' when Camping or supplying (up to 2000 watts) AC power where ever needed.

I have found this very useful charging cordless tools at jobsites, and have even used it to backfeed power to my house during a Grid Outage.

The Frunk 'surround panels', are kind of a pain to snap off, and you have to be careful not to break the connection snaps, or even the panel itself over time as it gets brittle with age, or in the cold.... I hate the idea of removing snap panels to get access to the LVB on a dark snowy cold or rainy night!

9/29/22 update - I added a third hole over the HV Disconnect relay. (see the last image in this first post) I figured this would save time for any Service that required disconnecting the HV first.... or for the benefit of First Responders or Tow truck drivers if they wanted to de-energize the HV pack before responding to an accident, or before towing to a salvage yard in case of a bad accident.

The simplest solution is to use a 1-7/8" hole saw to make big enough holes to grab the approved Connection Points with jumper cables, and get some standard electrical 2" hole plugs if you really want to cover when not in use. This procedure takes literally no more than 5 minutes, and you won't have to pop the panels off to give, or get, a 12v 'jump'

Note the position of the green disconnect in the middle. I did not draw this in the original post but I would highly suggest a third hole. It is fairly close to the top of the cover, so you want to unclip the beauty cover and tip it up before you drill from the top so the pilot drill does not hit the green disconnect connector.

... and I came back later and added a third hole right over the high voltage relay disconnect. You should remove the beauty cover, or at lease tip it up, before drilling because the top of the HV relay is fairly close to the bottom of the cover.

Emergency response people responding to an accident, tow truck drivers, or future service requiring dropping the battery tray would really appreciate easy access to disconnecting the high voltage battery.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MN6GQE8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

.... and this is what it looks like with all three holes and covers in place.

This is great. Now add the fact that if the LVB is dead, you can't open the frunk. At least in my new 2022 there is a port on the right front bumper. Pop the cover, find red and black leads. Connect to jumper cables, and voila, the frunk opens. Then you can jump the LVB connects. (But you all knew that...)

 

[dtbaker61]

This is great. Now add the fact that if the LVB is dead, you can't open the frunk. At least in my new 2022 there is a port on the right front bumper. Pop the cover, find red and black leads. Connect to jumper cables, and voila, the frunk opens. Then you can jump the LVB connects. (But you all knew that...)

presumably, if someone shows up to rescue you, they will have jumper cables....
if MME 12v is DEAD, they can pop the frunk via the emergency pop connection under the bumper port... then the access holes make it easy to charge the 12v.

easier than pulling off the frunk panels anyway....

but do take note that any rescue jump charge should stay connected to a running vehicle for at least 20 minutes to get some Energy into the dead LVB. You need enough time to get to a Dealership, presuming that the HV is not charging the LVB correctly. A momentary 'jump-start' will not get you very far otherwise.

Keep in mind that the MME will be pulling about 200-250watts from the little LVB once you are 'started'; so if the HVB is not charging the LVB correctly, you'll be dead again unless the LVB gets a full charge.

 

[ziptbm]

I made my attempt at adding these holes yesterday, but used a 3” hole saw so I could use flush mount 3” Caplugs. Unfortunately, as someone totally new to this, I messed up on the first hole a bit and was much cleaner on the second. However, the plugs fit neither hole.

Due to timing, I went ahead with the 3” instead of getting the smaller hole saw and plugs recommended here (lesson learned). Now I’ve got two holes that aren’t covered and I’ll most likely end up purchasing a replacement piece of trim in the future to do it right.

In the meantime, does anyone have any recommendations on how to make this work for now? I’ve purchased every option I can find on Amazon and will see if they fit later this week, but it appears the smaller Hellman plugs will work better.


Suggestions appreciated!

 

[dtbaker61]

I made my attempt at adding these holes yesterday, but used a 3” hole saw so I could use flush mount 3” Caplugs. Unfortunately, as someone totally new to this, I messed up on the first hole a bit and was much cleaner on the second. However, the plugs fit neither hole.

Due to timing, I went ahead with the 3” instead of getting the smaller hole saw and plugs recommended here (lesson learned). Now I’ve got two holes that aren’t covered and I’ll most likely end up purchasing a replacement piece of trim in the future to do it right.

In the meantime, does anyone have any recommendations on how to make this work for now? I’ve purchased every option I can find on Amazon and will see if they fit later this week, but it appears the smaller Hellman plugs will work better.


Suggestions appreciated!

you could look at end caps in the Plumbing aisle of the hardware store?

or, join the holes together and square the opening.... and use a spring drywall cover like plumbers use on the back-side of shower and tub walls sometimes.

 

[Old_Norm]

Just bought one of these for something else. 8 x 8 might be too big, however.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-...ded+drywall+access+panel,aps,135&sr=8-10&th=1

 

[rhougey]

In the meantime, does anyone have any recommendations on how to make this work for now?


Suggestions appreciated!

Have you thought about just cleaning up your holes and leaving them uncovered? The positive terminal already has a cap on it to prevent accidental shorts to ground.

 

[mkhuffman]

I made my attempt at adding these holes yesterday, but used a 3” hole saw so I could use flush mount 3” Caplugs. Unfortunately, as someone totally new to this, I messed up on the first hole a bit and was much cleaner on the second. However, the plugs fit neither hole.

Due to timing, I went ahead with the 3” instead of getting the smaller hole saw and plugs recommended here (lesson learned). Now I’ve got two holes that aren’t covered and I’ll most likely end up purchasing a replacement piece of trim in the future to do it right.

In the meantime, does anyone have any recommendations on how to make this work for now? I’ve purchased every option I can find on Amazon and will see if they fit later this week, but it appears the smaller Hellman plugs will work better.


Suggestions appreciated!

Have you thought about just cleaning up your holes and leaving them uncovered? The positive terminal already has a cap on it to prevent accidental shorts to ground.

Leaving them uncovered makes the most sense to me.

When I take my car to the dealer, I always pop the hole covers off just in case they miss the fact that they don't need to remove the trim. If the holes are there, they use them and don't lose any more trim clips.

 

[ziptbm]

Leaving them uncovered makes the most sense to me.

When I take my car to the dealer, I always pop the hole covers off just in case they miss the fact that they don't need to remove the trim. If the holes are there, they use them and don't lose any more trim clips.

Interesting!

What has the dealer said about the holes?

Clearly it helps them do their job, I'm just wondering how Ford may try to use them as reason to reject future warranty claims.

 

[mkhuffman]

Interesting!

What has the dealer said about the holes?

Clearly it helps them do their job, I'm just wondering how Ford may try to use them as reason to reject future warranty claims.

They have not said anything about the holes. I knew they needed to be able to access the LVB for FDRS updates, and I wanted to be sure they saw they didn't need to remove the trim. And they didn't remove the trim, so it was great!

 

[generaltso]

I'm just wondering how Ford may try to use them as reason to reject future warranty claims.

That’s not how warranties work.

 

[ziptbm]

That’s not how warranties work.

It all depends on the company....another popular EV manufacturer that I recently had a vehicle from would look for any reason to deny warranty work. e.g. third party accessories such as seat covers or modifications that could not be removed to make it look like the original product are common reasons for warranty claim denial.

I haven't had issues with Ford yet, but unlike that competitor, each dealership is different.

Based on your response, it sounds like I shouldn't expect future hassles from Ford stemming from this adjustment, which assuring.

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