dtbaker61
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Dan
- Joined
- May 11, 2020
- Threads
- 119
- Messages
- 4,580
- Reaction score
- 4,229
- Location
- santa fe,nm
- Website
- www.envirokarma.org
- Vehicles
- MME (delivered 2/26/21), DIY eMiata BEV
- Occupation
- Solar Sales/install
- Thread starter
- #1
I ran my original battery 39 months... tested shortly before 36 months hoping for warranty replacement, but it still tested ok. 'Great' SoH in fact... So I thought I'd charge to 100% and test monthly until it had a problem; thinking that since these little batteries are not cranking a starter they might last a lot longer than 36 mo warranty.
They don't ;(
They can fail suddenly, and without warning....
Possibly leaving you stranded somewhere if you are not prepared. I was lucky mine failed while I was at a jobsite in town and not out at one of my jobs in the booneys. I drove to the site, got out of the car, and the doors locked behind me! PAAK 'unlock' didn't work, Door pillar code bar did not 'light up', so I was stuck. Thank God I had my phone in my pocket and not locked inside the car!
Fortunately, I had several 12v batteries at home (for my solar business), and my wife was able to bring a battery, and a set of jumper cables to get me back on the road...
I *could* have run with the spare jumpered in if a proper replacement was not available, but I'd recommend to anyone that when you battery hits 36 months, you ought to contact your dealership to make sure they have a replacement on the shelf, and consider scheduling a mobile service replacement or carry it with you, along with jumper cables to make the swap yourself.
So, being a diehard DIYer, I thought I'd document the remove-replacement procedure in case anybody else wants to be prepared to handle it without a tow to a dealership.
=============== DIY remove-replace the 12v ===========
removal procedure starts in service manual page 1999-2001
section 414-01, if you want the factory pictures. The process is:
- remove rear and side 'beauty covers'
- remove Tub - mostly 10mm, and a screwdriver to pop access panels
- remove cross brace - 18mm
- remove/replace battery - 10mm
- reset BCM with dealer 'Scan Tool' , or, follow 'home reset procedure'
Resetting tells the computer you have a brand new battery at 100% heath.
Reset new battery ONLY after charging it to 100%.
The easiest way to charge the new 12v to 100% is:
- turn MME ON
- Turn Vehicle>Settings>auto-off = DISabled
- turn Headlights, A/c, Heat, fan OFF
- .... and leave MME on overnight
- ODB2+Carscanner, or voltmeter, should verify that battery is 100% and
resting at 'float' voltage of 13.2v by morning
THEN, you can 'reset' the BCM to the new 100% capacity by:
- turn MME 'off' once LVB has been charged to 100%
- Press the START button without pressing the brake (ACCESSORY mode)
- Flash the high beams with the stalk 5x
- Press the brake pedal 3x
- Battery icon on instrument cluster should flash 3x to indicate reset
- Turn OFF the car
- Turn OFF Fordpass and Bluetooth if you use PAAK so car-phone are not communicating
- Park the vehicle undisturbed for 6+ hours to allow the BCM to verify the battery SoC and quiescent load
and here are the pictures... I pulled the cross-brace and Frunk Tub per service manual, but I think you may be able do the job just removing the cross brace and rear beauty cover
They don't ;(
They can fail suddenly, and without warning....
Possibly leaving you stranded somewhere if you are not prepared. I was lucky mine failed while I was at a jobsite in town and not out at one of my jobs in the booneys. I drove to the site, got out of the car, and the doors locked behind me! PAAK 'unlock' didn't work, Door pillar code bar did not 'light up', so I was stuck. Thank God I had my phone in my pocket and not locked inside the car!
Fortunately, I had several 12v batteries at home (for my solar business), and my wife was able to bring a battery, and a set of jumper cables to get me back on the road...
- used the spare 12v and the front bumper access port connections to pop the hood
- jumpered the spare battery to the MME connection points, which was easy since I have access holes over the 12v+, 12v-, and HV disconnect. but, I ended up popping off the drivers side beauty cover so I could close the hood over the jumper cables.
- and was able to start the car and get to my dealership, where they had a h3 35ah battery on the shelf ($211 + $16 core charge)
I *could* have run with the spare jumpered in if a proper replacement was not available, but I'd recommend to anyone that when you battery hits 36 months, you ought to contact your dealership to make sure they have a replacement on the shelf, and consider scheduling a mobile service replacement or carry it with you, along with jumper cables to make the swap yourself.
So, being a diehard DIYer, I thought I'd document the remove-replacement procedure in case anybody else wants to be prepared to handle it without a tow to a dealership.
=============== DIY remove-replace the 12v ===========
removal procedure starts in service manual page 1999-2001
section 414-01, if you want the factory pictures. The process is:
- remove rear and side 'beauty covers'
- remove Tub - mostly 10mm, and a screwdriver to pop access panels
- remove cross brace - 18mm
- remove/replace battery - 10mm
- reset BCM with dealer 'Scan Tool' , or, follow 'home reset procedure'
Resetting tells the computer you have a brand new battery at 100% heath.
Reset new battery ONLY after charging it to 100%.
The easiest way to charge the new 12v to 100% is:
- turn MME ON
- Turn Vehicle>Settings>auto-off = DISabled
- turn Headlights, A/c, Heat, fan OFF
- .... and leave MME on overnight
- ODB2+Carscanner, or voltmeter, should verify that battery is 100% and
resting at 'float' voltage of 13.2v by morning
THEN, you can 'reset' the BCM to the new 100% capacity by:
- turn MME 'off' once LVB has been charged to 100%
- Press the START button without pressing the brake (ACCESSORY mode)
- Flash the high beams with the stalk 5x
- Press the brake pedal 3x
- Battery icon on instrument cluster should flash 3x to indicate reset
- Turn OFF the car
- Turn OFF Fordpass and Bluetooth if you use PAAK so car-phone are not communicating
- Park the vehicle undisturbed for 6+ hours to allow the BCM to verify the battery SoC and quiescent load
and here are the pictures... I pulled the cross-brace and Frunk Tub per service manual, but I think you may be able do the job just removing the cross brace and rear beauty cover
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