I recommend Gyeon Cancoat Evo ceramic coating after DIY applying for first time

[joebruin77]

For those of you considering a DIY ceramic coating, I just tried Gyeon Cancoat Evo for the first time today and I highly recommend it.

Gyeon Cancoat Evo is a "light" coating, meaning that is designed to be super easy to apply and is a bit forgiving compared to other coatings. More specifically, you can just wipe it on and wipe it off. You don't have to wait 1-3 minutes for the coating to flash before wiping it off. And if you accidentally leave a high spot, you can either just wipe it off or you just apply a little bit more Cancoat and then the high spot wipes off. The trade off is that it is not as durable as some other coatings that are more time consuming and challenging to apply. But it will still last 12-18 months. Given how easy it is to apply, I don't mind the fact that it doesn't last 3-5 years. Plus, like all the coatings in Gyeon's new Evo line, Cancoat Evo can be applied outside (just make sure to apply it in the shade).

I just applied Cancoat Evo to our 8-year old Honda Accord. It has definitely added noticeable gloss and shine. And the hydrophobics are supposed to be among the very best.

I plan on applying Cancoat Evo to our new 2022 MME sometime later this month and will post pics of it.

Here is how it looks on our 2014 Honda Accord. I love how you can see the reflection of the grass and side walk in the car's paint. Keep in mind this car is 8 years old and is parked outside 24/7:

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[RickMachE]

Collinite 845 beads 2 years later. Personally, I think that the term "ceramic" belongs in the pottery shed.

 

[joebruin77]

Collinite 845 beads 2 years later. Personally, I think that the term "ceramic" belongs in the pottery shed.

I am actually a big fan of Collinite Waxes. I have used and liked Collinite 845 and 915. But the most duration I have gotten out of 845 is about 6 months. Is your car garage-kept? Maybe you got two years either because it is garage-kept or because you applied something on top of the 845. But for my cars that sit outside 24/7, I would have to reapply 845 every 4 to 6 months.

Aside from durability, the other advantage of Cancoat Evo over Collinite 845 is that you can apply Cancoat to black trim. Collinite advises avoiding applying 845 and 915 on black trim. I'd rather have one product that I can apply to all hard exterior surfaces than one where I have to be careful not to get it on trim.

 

[RickMachE]

Yes, garage kept.

 

[RMoore]

For those of you considering a DIY ceramic coating, I just tried Gyeon Cancoat Evo for the first time today and I highly recommend it.

Gyeon Cancoat Evo is a "light" coating, meaning that is designed to be super easy to apply and is a bit forgiving compared to other coatings. More specifically, you can just wipe it on and wipe it off. You don't have to wait 1-3 minutes for the coating to flash before wiping it off. And if you accidentally leave a high spot, you can either just wipe it off or you just apply a little bit more Cancoat and then the high spot wipes off. The trade off is that it is not as durable as some other coatings that are more time consuming and challenging to apply. But it will still last 12-18 months. Given how easy it is to apply, I don't mind the fact that it doesn't last 3-5 years. Plus, like all the coatings in Gyeon's new Evo line, Cancoat Evo can be applied outside (just make sure to apply it in the shade).

I just applied Cancoat Evo to our 8-year old Honda Accord. It has definitely added noticeable gloss and shine. And the hydrophobics are supposed to be among the very best.

I plan on applying Cancoat Evo to our new 2022 MME sometime later this month and will post pics of it.

Here is how it looks on our 2014 Honda Accord. I love how you can see the reflection of the grass and side walk in the car's paint. Keep in mind this car is 8 years old and is parked outside 24/7:

Impressive! How did you prep the Honda prior to the ceramic coating?

 

[joebruin77]

Impressive! How did you prep the Honda prior to the ceramic coating?

Since I wash the car on a regular basis, the paint is in decent shape. It had been sitting outside for 10 days, so it was definitely in need of a wash.

I personally prefer rinseless washes, especially since we are under draught water restrictions where I live. I cleaned the car in sections. First, I sprayed Optimum Power Clean diluted 3:1 and let that dwell for about 1 minute. Then I wiped the panel with a microfiber wash mitt that had been dunked in ONR. Then, just to make sure I had plenty of lubrication for drying, I sprayed on some ONR as a drying aid and dried the panel using a Gauntlet drying towel.

Here are some steps that I considered but chose not to do:

1) Iron Remover - I seriously considered using an iron remover, but given that the paint appeared to be relatively contaminant free I decided it wasn't necessary. Plus, I didn't want to use the extra water that rinsing off an iron remover requires.

2) Clay mitt - Not needed, since the paint looked and felt contaminant free.

3) Polish - Often before applying a ceramic coating, it is a good idea to polish the paint. But given that the car is 8 years old, I hate to polish if it is not necessary. Every time you polish, you remove a very thin amount of clearcoat. Since there were no major scratches or swirls in the paint, I skipped polishing in favor of keeping as much clearcoat on the car as possible.

 

[Cm12]

Nice! Have you ever considered Avalon King DIY and if so, how does it compare? I’ve used it on my last 3 cars with good success, but I think people overhype ceramic coating sometimes.

 

[joebruin77]

Nice! Have you ever considered Avalon King DIY and if so, how does it compare? I’ve used it on my last 3 cars with good success, but I think people overhype ceramic coating sometimes.

I have heard of Avalon King but I have not tried their coatings personally. I don’t know how they compare to Gyeon’s coatings. The two main reasons I chose Cancoat Evo is because it is super easy to apply (wipe on wipe off) and Gyeon specifically says you can apply it outside. I’m not sure if Avalon King has a similar coating.

Yes, some people overhype ceramic coatings and make claims about them that are not true. But I have also seen people “underhype” them and claim they don’t offer any real advantages over traditional waxes. I personally think the truth lies somewhere between the two extremes.

 

[Fordmaybe]

i just ordered some up for the next car to try out. Already have the premium coming next week setup for at detailer but select I will order next month will get this

 

[RMoore]

Since I wash the car on a regular basis, the paint is in decent shape. It had been sitting outside for 10 days, so it was definitely in need of a wash.

I personally prefer rinseless washes, especially since we are under draught water restrictions where I live. I cleaned the car in sections. First, I sprayed Optimum Power Clean diluted 3:1 and let that dwell for about 1 minute. Then I wiped the panel with a microfiber wash mitt that had been dunked in ONR. Then, just to make sure I had plenty of lubrication for drying, I sprayed on some ONR as a drying aid and dried the panel using a Gauntlet drying towel.

Here are some steps that I considered but chose not to do:

1) Iron Remover - I seriously considered using an iron remover, but given that the paint appeared to be relatively contaminant free I decided it wasn't necessary. Plus, I didn't want to use the extra water that rinsing off an iron remover requires.

2) Clay mitt - Not needed, since the paint looked and felt contaminant free.

3) Polish - Often before applying a ceramic coating, it is a good idea to polish the paint. But given that the car is 8 years old, I hate to polish if it is not necessary. Every time you polish, you remove a very thin amount of clearcoat. Since there were no major scratches or swirls in the paint, I skipped polishing in favor of keeping as much clearcoat on the car as possible.

Thanks. Just curious, since I know you are into this detailing "stuff"--what was on the Honda before washing? In other words had you used any other ceramic coatings on it previously? I'm essentially getting at the question of what substrate must be present when you apply the Gyeon ceramic coating? As you probably recall I put a few coats of the Hybrid Solutions Ceramic spray on, and had also, after washing, applied their ceramic wax spray to help dry, and more recently have added a few coats of their graphene pro flex wax spray. So if at some point I wanted to try the Gyeon or some other coating after I think the current ceramic has worn off, can I just add it or do I need to do something to fully remove the prior Hybrid Solutions coating?

 

[joebruin77]

Thanks. Just curious, since I know you are into this detailing "stuff"--what was on the Honda before washing? In other words had you used any other ceramic coatings on it previously? I'm essentially getting at the question of what substrate must be present when you apply the Gyeon ceramic coating? As you probably recall I put a few coats of the Hybrid Solutions Ceramic spray on, and had also, after washing, applied their ceramic wax spray to help dry, and more recently have added a few coats of their graphene pro flex wax spray. So if at some point I wanted to try the Gyeon or some other coating after I think the current ceramic has worn off, can I just add it or do I need to do something to fully remove the prior Hybrid Solutions coating?

Cancoat will work best on clean, decontaminated, bare paint with any previous protection removed.

What you need to remove the previous form of protection depends on what exactly the previous protection was and what kind of shape it was in. Spray on waxes and sealants are easier to remove than actual ceramic coatings and a product that was applied several months ago will be easier to remove than one that was freshly applied. Here are some products you can use to remove existing waxes and sealants:

1) Mckees 37 Coating Prep Auto Wash - This is a high pH soap that will strip most waxes and sealants.
2) Chemical Guys Clean Slate - Another soap that claims to remove waxes and sealants without leaving any form of protection behind
3) Mckees 37 N-914 - When used at the "paint prep" dilution strength, this rinseless wash will strip most sealants and waxes.
4) An IPA panel wipe - an alcohol-based wipe that will remove any remaining waxes and sealants as well as any residues from polishes.
5) Optimum Power Clean - this is an all purpose cleaner that when diluted 3:1 can be used safely on paint. It will clean the paint really thoroughly and remove existing waxes and sealants.

If you have an existing ceramic coating, that is more difficult to remove. The only way that I know of to remove an existing coating is by using a DA polisher and a polish.

If you want to go the polish route, one of the best polishes to use before a ceramic coating is Dr. Beasley's NSP line of polishes, such as NSP 45. Normally after you polish, you have to wipe down the car using an IPA panel wipe. But the unique thing about Dr. Beasley's NSP polishes is that no IPA wipe is necessary.

My Honda did not have a ceramic coating. It actually had Xtreme Solutions Poly Seal, which is a ceramic and wax infused spray sealant. It was on its last legs so it was pretty easy to remove with just the Optimum Power Clean.

 

[Jimmy2]

Agree. We like on the East coast too.

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