inside edge tire wear... cause? solution?

[dtbaker61]

I have a little over 20k miles on my second set of tires. While rotating front to back as I usually do ever 5k miles or so, I noticed that while the wear across most of the tire is even, the inside 2" or so are MUCH more worn.

Stock Select wheels are 18" x 7.5" wide with inset=38, tires 225

These are my 'summer tires' on aftermarket wheels that are +1 on width, 245
Enkie TSV 18x8.5 w inset=40

1. what is causing inside edges to wear more than outside edges ?

i.e. is this an alignment issue, inset, or something else ?

3. what would be the best bet to correct?

Sponsored

 

[noflipping]

Sounds like alignment to me...

 

[HuntingPudel]

Too much negative camber based on not seeing any feathering of the tread blocks. Is this on all 4 tires? One specific corner? One side of the car? A possible non-shop oriented fix is to drive it harder around corners.

 

[johnnycombo]

Cause: alignment, solution: alignment then new tires. The key is to have a professional alignment with the old tires in the position that caused the wear, that way your problem can be properly diagnosed and corrected.

 

[azerik]

If it is alignment it's toe as the stock front has no camber in it and isn't adjustable. Typically toe being out chews a good 1/3rd of the inside, not usually a small strip. Check around some Discount Tires shops have racks and can check for free.

I'm actually leaning toward the inside rubbing the under-diaper on the backside of the wheel well at full lock. It's firm and should be obvious if it's rubbing there. (Near the battery pack towards the inside of the car, brain fart on explaining, looking for picutre)

 

[rreddy3]

I'm inclined to go with too much toe out. I do like Steve's too much negative camber but unless Dan threw camber adjusting bolts in and dialed up a bunch of negative camber, I wouldn't think it's really negative camber ... unless the whole front end of the car is out of whack ... but I would discount that since Dan has not mentioned any crazy driveability issues. That brings me back to too much toe out. If memory serves me, I recall Dan remarking in other threads his business takes him on all sorts of unpaved roads. If that's the case, it could beat up the alignment, particularly if Dan is in WRC driving mode Does sound like it's time for a trip to a good alignment shop.

 

[dtbaker61]

Sounds like alignment to me...

yeah, well, thats what I thought too, but when I look in ODB2 info, there actually are numbers for 'auto-adjusted' alignment ?! So I am not even sure that the Mach-e can be 'manually' aligned ?

I'm hoping for response from one of the wheel/tire customer guys for some insight......

 

[rreddy3]

Check this thread in the forum. The car can definitely be aligned. I think the trick is finding a good shop.

Alignment info

Sorry I didn’t get the full link, but that is the title.

good luck getting it sorted.

 

[dtbaker61]

Too much negative camber based on not seeing any feathering of the tread blocks. Is this on all 4 tires? One specific corner? One side of the car? A possible non-shop oriented fix is to drive it harder around corners.

no feathering
even on all four, but I rotate about every 5000 miles or so

 

[dtbaker61]

I'm inclined to go with too much toe out. I do like Steve's too much negative camber but unless Dan threw camber adjusting bolts in and dialed up a bunch of negative camber, I wouldn't think it's really negative camber ... unless the whole front end of the car is out of whack ... but I would discount that since Dan has not mentioned any crazy driveability issues. That brings me back to too much toe out. If memory serves me, I recall Dan remarking in other threads his business takes him on all sorts of unpaved roads. If that's the case, it could beat up the alignment, particularly if Dan is in WRC driving mode Does sound like it's time for a trip to a good alignment shop.

I did not set up any special toe or camber. I do drive some rough roads, but not fast. I am pretty good at avoiding potholes, but last alignment was 20k miles ago.

what 'should' the toe angle be ?

I just looked via ODB2, and the only steering related info is:
BCM steering angle =0
FSM auto alignment offset =0.2
Lateral angle -0.06

 

[rreddy3]

I did not set up any special toe or camber. I do drive some rough roads, but not fast. I am pretty good at avoiding potholes, but last alignment was 20k miles ago.

what 'should' the toe angle be ?

I just looked via ODB2, and the only steering related info is:
BCM steering angle =0
FSM auto alignment offset =0.2
Lateral angle -0.06

to be honest with you, I don’t know where/how the obd link is receiving/measuring alignment data. It makes me wonder if the car has some electronic alignment monitoring devices/software baked in.

this is a comment Steve, Hunting Pudle, made last year to a member, his advice makes sense to me,

”May 10, 2023

• Add bookmark
• #3

If you do not drive the car hard, have it aligned to within the factory window of specs. The only reason to deviate is if you already have abnormal wear. I would suggest getting the alignment checked first so that the alignment tech can inspect the west, then getting the new tires installed after the alignment has been done. ”

that begs the issue of what is the factory spec. I did some quick web surfing but didn’t find it ….. doesn’t mean it’s not out there.

the alignment info thread has a chart of someone’s alignment, azeric I think. If I understand the chart correctly, it is displaying the factory spec range for the various measured points, and also displaying the measured value for the vehicle in question. So the range is identifiable. I’m not so sure an exact point within the range is identifiable.

other members who have done deep dives into suspension setup on these cars may have precise settings they prefer. But their use cases may be much more performance driving oriented which may not fit your case well. if that’s the case, it points back to Steve’s advice to have settings made within the factory window/range.

I would look around for a good shop that’s trusted in the performance driving community and consider giving it a try.

 

[HuntingPudel]

I did not set up any special toe or camber. I do drive some rough roads, but not fast. I am pretty good at avoiding potholes, but last alignment was 20k miles ago.

what 'should' the toe angle be ?

I just looked via ODB2, and the only steering related info is:
BCM steering angle =0
FSM auto alignment offset =0.2
Lateral angle -0.06

My guess is that the car is deciding what is “straight ahead” and what steering offset is required to go straight ahead.

 

[azerik]

I used those ODBII reading to get the alignment shop to zero the steering wheel out.

Do you drive up curbs at full lock often? It looks shaved to me which is why I think it's rubbing that under panel.

 

[markboris]

I did not set up any special toe or camber. I do drive some rough roads, but not fast. I am pretty good at avoiding potholes, but last alignment was 20k miles ago.

what 'should' the toe angle be ?

I just looked via ODB2, and the only steering related info is:
BCM steering angle =0
FSM auto alignment offset =0.2
Lateral angle -0.06

 

[Teslaeata]

I have a little over 20k miles on my second set of tires. While rotating front to back as I usually do ever 5k miles or so, I noticed that while the wear across most of the tire is even, the inside 2" or so are MUCH more worn.

Stock Select wheels are 18" x 7.5" wide with inset=38, tires 225

These are my 'summer tires' on aftermarket wheels that are +1 on width, 245
Enkie TSV 18x8.5 w inset=40

1. what is causing inside edges to wear more than outside edges ?

i.e. is this an alignment issue, inset, or something else ?

3. what would be the best bet to correct?

Looks more likely to be tracking/toe misalignment.

Best advice: The moment you have new tyres fitted so car’s sitting nice & square with correct inflation pressures, have the wheel alignment checked & adjusted.

See attached wheel alignment specs for UK RWD 2021.

It don’t say track/toe angles are adjustable on front because they ALWAYS are.

Track/toe is adjustable on rears and Camber angles are adjustable on all four wheels, diagrams show how.

It’s the (front) Caster & KPI that’s not adjustable but if they’re out you got some serious shit going on and you’d be into new suspension etc

OBD is only likely to read steering angle from steering angle sensor so if rear toe/tracking is out, the thrust line will be out and you’ll be steering slight left or right to stay in straight line symptom of which is that you’re steering wheel will be off centre when driving in straight line.

I expect tracking and/or camber adjustment is required, car will drive better and give greater range.

I check my own 3 or 4 times a year with my own laser alignment kit and just paid (because I can’t be arsed) to have the rear cambers adjusted to max limit to compensate for running fully loaded almost all the time.

Sponsored