Iron Remover Before or After Wash? Clay Bar?

ElleD

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My MME was transported 1400 miles and has fine black powder on it. I spoke with someone at McKee's who recommended McKee's 37 MK34-485 Xtreme Iron Remover as a first step, to be used on the dry car. But elsewhere I am reading to wash first, and then use an iron remover. And then clay bar.

Since there is quite a bit of fine residue on the paint, I'm leaning towards first using ONR in a pump sprayer with a McKee's Big Gold Sponge for a Rinseless wash, careful drying with my new Gauntlet microfiber cloth, then on to the McKee's Xtreme Iron Remover. Then, clay bar usingChemical Guys with their After Wash as a lubricant.

Then, the real wash using the iK Foam Pro 12 Pump Sprayer (using distilled water), Chemical Guys Black Light Foaming Car Wash Soap, with a chenille wash mitt. Then, dry with Chemical Guys After Wash and another Gauntlet towel.

Then onto the protection stage: Jescar Power Lock Polymer followed by Collinite No. 845. And finally, if I haven't collapsed in the South Florida heat (it shouldn't be too hot tomorrow), application of Griot's Garage Spray-On Wax.

Does this sound like the correct order?

Any and all suggestions welcome!

Thanks,
Elle
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Murse-In-Airy

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My regimen is wash… iron off… clay bar…. Polish…. Ceramic.
 
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ElleD

ElleD

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Photos of the black powder?
It is difficult to take a picture of the car now, lighting is not good in my garage and my phone flash makes it look super shiny. It is Dark Matter Grey. I did run a white cotton kitchen towel over it lightly, as well as my finger, here is a picture.

Thanks for looking.

IMG_0048.jpeg
 


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I’m going to one-up @Murse-In-Airy ‘s very accurate process with:
  1. Wash with a good resetting shampoo
  2. Decontamination with iron remover
  3. Clay bar
  4. Buff/Polish if necessary
  5. IPA wipe down
  6. Apply final sealant/coating
 

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There a few posts about this fine black powder that tends to accumulate on the back of the car after you drive. Seems to be road dust. I didn’t bother with the iron remover, just washed, clay bar, Hybrid Solutions ceramic spray (2 applications separate md by 24 hrs). But I’m no expert and I suppose the iron remover couldn’t hurt.
 

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It is difficult to take a picture of the car now, lighting is not good in my garage and my phone flash makes it look super shiny. It is Dark Matter Grey. I did run a white cotton kitchen towel over it lightly, as well as my finger, here is a picture.

Thanks for looking.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Iron Remover Before or After Wash?  Clay Bar? IMG_0048
Use very soapy water on microfiber sponge. I recommend dawn. Try low on the rear quarter panel. Rinse , dry and check to see how it worked. Always clean anything first with soapy water. I find Chris tips on u tube to be the absolute best in car detailing. Good luck. My wife's GTPE is dark matter gray and the metallic pops in the sun.
 

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Any spots that “rust” down the road, this takes them right away…..with a microfiber. Recoat with Hybrid Ceramic after and it will glow.

AC8A49F8-72D7-411C-944E-8ADA8E6F9F52.jpeg
 

Mache65

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I have done all my new vehicles without iron removal and clay bar.

my steps are wash, polish, IPA, graphene coating.
 

Murse-In-Airy

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I’m going to one-up @Murse-In-Airy ‘s very accurate process with:
  1. Wash with a good resetting shampoo
  2. Decontamination with iron remover
  3. Clay bar
  4. Buff/Polish if necessary
  5. IPA wipe down
  6. Apply final sealant/coating
I did forget to mention the IPA. Good call. Thank You for helping @ElleD out.
In my defense I was on a helipad somewhere waiting for a pilot to preflight so I could continue making use of my ENTIRE 24 hour shift.

And for anyone doubting the effectiveness…. Here’s a before and after of last weeks project. Got a 2010 charger for my son that appeared to have been scrubbed with a bbq brush.
Before/After:
Ford Mustang Mach-E Iron Remover Before or After Wash?  Clay Bar? F476558E-828A-4761-8DFB-0BBD37C235A0
 

connoisseurr

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I did forget to mention the IPA. Good call. Thank You for helping @ElleD out.
In my defense I was on a helipad somewhere waiting for a pilot to preflight so I could continue making use of my ENTIRE 24 hour shift.

And for anyone doubting the effectiveness…. Here’s a before and after of last weeks project. Got a 2010 charger for my son that appeared to have been scrubbed with a bbq brush.
Before/After:
Ford Mustang Mach-E Iron Remover Before or After Wash?  Clay Bar? F476558E-828A-4761-8DFB-0BBD37C235A0
Man I love seeing excellent before and after on a black vehicle paint correction. It never gets old.
 

MachTee

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I'm kind of surprise they said to use the iron remover first on a dry car. Iron remover is no contact, you just spray on and rinse off, so there's no risk of marring the paint other than maybe using more of the product.

General rule of thumb in car detailing is to follow the bell curve. Starting and ending with the least aggressive method which is to start with the wash and end with applying the protection. Removing the first layer of dirt and grime with the wash helps the iron remover to do its job.

I did my MME in early Spring, with Car Pro C-Quartz ceramic coating. Starting with a reset shampoo, iron remover, clay, polish, IPA wipe, two coats of CQuartz, and finish off with a spray on sealant which is to be done every 2-3 months to help prolong the coating.

I did my last car with CQuartz and had great results. Water beads like crazy even after 3 years. When I bought my MME last year, I tried the Turtle Wax hybrid ceramic spray. The same steps as above, just replacing the two coats of CQuartz with two coats of Turtle Wax ceramic spray. Water beading was essentially gone in less than 3 months, and I did use their ceramic detailer to top it off. Most of the work is in the preparation anyway, so might as well go with a proper coating rather than the spray on stuff, just IMHO.
 

joebruin77

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My MME was transported 1400 miles and has fine black powder on it. I spoke with someone at McKee's who recommended McKee's 37 MK34-485 Xtreme Iron Remover as a first step, to be used on the dry car. But elsewhere I am reading to wash first, and then use an iron remover. And then clay bar.

Since there is quite a bit of fine residue on the paint, I'm leaning towards first using ONR in a pump sprayer with a McKee's Big Gold Sponge for a Rinseless wash, careful drying with my new Gauntlet microfiber cloth, then on to the McKee's Xtreme Iron Remover. Then, clay bar usingChemical Guys with their After Wash as a lubricant.

Then, the real wash using the iK Foam Pro 12 Pump Sprayer (using distilled water), Chemical Guys Black Light Foaming Car Wash Soap, with a chenille wash mitt. Then, dry with Chemical Guys After Wash and another Gauntlet towel.

Then onto the protection stage: Jescar Power Lock Polymer followed by Collinite No. 845. And finally, if I haven't collapsed in the South Florida heat (it shouldn't be too hot tomorrow), application of Griot's Garage Spray-On Wax.
I asked a similar question on Autogeekonline.net, an online forum for professional detailers and enthusiasts. The consensus was to 1) wash 2) iron remover and then 3) clay bar.

Your process sounds good. The only change I would make: I would not use After Wash as a claying lubricant or drying aid and I would not use the Black Light Car Soap. Both of these products contain gloss enhancers. When you are prepping a car to apply paint protection, you don't want to use any products that leave any kind of gloss enhancers or waxes behind. You want the paint to be as clean and bare as possible. My favorite wash to use before applying any paint protection is Mckees 37 Coating Prep Auto Wash. This is a powerful soap that will not only clean your paint but will also strip any previously applied waxes or sealants. So do not use it for maintenance washes. The After Wash and Black Light Soap would be fine to use for your maintenance washes after your sealant and wax are on the car.

If you prefer to do a rinseless wash, both ONR and Mckees37 N-914 can be used at a higher dilution to effectively clean and not leave anything behind. As for a clay lube, you can simply use ONR or Mckees37 at the clay lube dilution.
 
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ElleD

ElleD

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Any spots that “rust” down the road, this takes them right away…..with a microfiber. Recoat with Hybrid Ceramic after and it will glow.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Iron Remover Before or After Wash?  Clay Bar? F476558E-828A-4761-8DFB-0BBD37C235A0
My Outback could use this! Poor unwashed baby. You’re next!
 
 




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