Just got hit with stop safely now

[RMoore]

@Caramel actually had a stuck contactor code. In your case they haven't even read codes yet because of the discharged battery. If they replace the LVB today we should be able to see any codes.

Maybe I missed this--if so, sorry. But if the root cause is a stuck contactor in the HVBJB, and it happens to lead to a bunch of other codes listed as well, how can they clear them all? In other words, if the contactor is stuck, it's stuck. Even if they could clear the code, wouldn't the car still be undrivable (or unstartable, if that's a word)? I guess I don't understand how they can say the car is good to go if the contactor on the HVBJB is still stuck.

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[Blacksnake]

Sorry to be that guy, I read the entire thread couldn’t confirm, was the update installed on the OP mach E… although it doesn’t seem the update could have would have fixed the bum HV battery? Sorry yes I am a noob

 

[Caramel]

Sorry to be that guy, I read the entire thread couldn’t confirm, was the update installed on the OP mach E… although it doesn’t seem the update could have would have fixed the bum HV battery? Sorry yes I am a noob

The update had not been installed.

 

[Blacksnake]

Ok thank you, just dropped
Mine off 15 minutes ago, we drive through the desert every other weekend 255 miles each way with our 2 big dogs. Would SUCK if this thing quit on us in 115 degrees ughh.
BS

 

[mkhuffman]

Ok thank you, just dropped
Mine off 15 minutes ago, we drive through the desert every other weekend 255 miles each way with our 2 big dogs. Would SUCK if this thing quit on us in 115 degrees ughh.
BS

Get a 12V jump starter. You need one anyway, but it would be especially important if you have car trouble in the middle of your trip. It will allow you to keep your LVB charged until someone can get there to help you.

Also, if you haven't already, cut holes in the cover over the LVB so you can access the terminals without taking the cover off.
https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...s-for-lvb-12v-battery-connection-points.4107/

 

[i8iridium]

Maybe I missed this--if so, sorry. But if the root cause is a stuck contactor in the HVBJB, and it happens to lead to a bunch of other codes listed as well, how can they clear them all? In other words, if the contactor is stuck, it's stuck. Even if they could clear the code, wouldn't the car still be undrivable (or unstartable, if that's a word)? I guess I don't understand how they can say the car is good to go if the contactor on the HVBJB is still stuck.

If the service department clears all the DTCs and vehicle already has a stuck contactor, it'll immediately come back as soon as it does the next weld check on an ignition cycle. That might be a hard code that you can't clear, but I'm not sure.

If the car has the recall software update and it comes in to service with the limited power code (sorry can't remember what it is), and they reset the codes, then it'll go back to normal until another event to trip the code again. I think this was posted recently where the service department just decided to clear the codes without reading any of them.

 

[scoopman]

Ok thank you, just dropped
Mine off 15 minutes ago, we drive through the desert every other weekend 255 miles each way with our 2 big dogs. Would SUCK if this thing quit on us in 115 degrees ughh.
BS

With the recall software installed, you generally won't get stuck, you'll get a "service vehicle soon" and reduced power, which will let you get to civilization. There have been 2-3 rare instances on these forums where, despite the recall software being on an MME, the car still will weld its contactors shut and not start up from being off. But post-recall, the vast majority of cars that have a contactor problem detected by the car reduce power to permit you to continue driving before you can get your HVBJB replaced.

 

[scoopman]

Sorry to be that guy, I read the entire thread couldn’t confirm, was the update installed on the OP mach E… although it doesn’t seem the update could have would have fixed the bum HV battery? Sorry yes I am a noob

The recall software wouldn't have "fixed" the defective part, but it appears to detect damage to the part and give warning. When it warns the user (via "Service Vehicle Soon" message) it reduces your power by about 70%. In GT cars, you'll see a lot of grey power limitation bars in the power gauge when this happens.

 

[Mach-Lee]

If the service department clears all the DTCs and vehicle already has a stuck contactor, it'll immediately come back as soon as it does the next weld check on an ignition cycle. That might be a hard code that you can't clear, but I'm not sure.

The weld check happens under load, not right after turning it on. So you would have to drive the car hard to get the code to come back after being cleared. Flooring it once or twice should usually do it.

Getting the code to come back could be an issue if a dealer resets it and the owner drives conservatively afterwards. If a dealer does this to you, you should immediately floor the car and then come right back when the warning pops up again. Then they realize it’s not going to be that simple.

EDIT: I’m talking about the overheated contactor code with the post-recall software. That’s the one some dealers are clearing. Stuck contactor won’t clear and car won’t drive.

 

[WyldStallyn]

The weld check happens under load, not right after turning it on. So you would have to drive the car hard to get the code to come back after being cleared. Flooring it once or twice should usually do it.

Getting the code to come back could be an issue if a dealer resets it and the owner drives conservatively afterwards. If a dealer does this to you, you should immediately floor the car and then come right back when the warning pops up again. Then they realize it’s not going to be that simple.

EDIT: I’m talking about the overheated contactor code with the post-recall software. That’s the one some dealers are clearing. Stuck contactor won’t clear and car won’t drive.

In some cases stuck contactor will actually clear. That has happened a few times in the past couple of weeks.

 

[Mach-Lee]

In some cases stuck contactor will actually clear. That has happened a few times in the past couple of weeks.

Ha, so it must have unstuck itself. Rubber mallet to the rescue?

 

[mkhuffman]

Ha, so it must have unstuck itself. Rubber mallet to the rescue?

It makes sense that it could be damaged so that it sticks intermittently - i.e. stuck when hot, breaks loose when cold.

 

[i8iridium]

The weld check happens under load, not right after turning it on. So you would have to drive the car hard to get the code to come back after being cleared. Flooring it once or twice should usually do it.

Getting the code to come back could be an issue if a dealer resets it and the owner drives conservatively afterwards. If a dealer does this to you, you should immediately floor the car and then come right back when the warning pops up again. Then they realize it’s not going to be that simple.

EDIT: I’m talking about the overheated contactor code with the post-recall software. That’s the one some dealers are clearing. Stuck contactor won’t clear and car won’t drive.

I stand corrected, partially. But if the contactor was stuck and you turn the car on, it's going to throw a code. The weld check seems to happen periodically whenever you access the vehicle when it's powered off. I don't see how it would do it under power, as it would open and the HV system would shut off. On the DCFC side, maybe.

 

[Caramel]

Reunited with Kestrel and it feels so good!!! Beyond excited to have my car back. When I picked it up my service advisor asked if I review cars on social media or anything like that, and I said “no, I don’t. Why do you ask?” He said that they got a call from Ford engineering and that’s only happened before when they were working on “VIPs”. Lol.

I can’t thank the people who helped out behind the scenes enough. Without this forum first of all, my car would have remained misdiagnosed and potentially I would have been stranded again, and second of all I would still be waiting for the HVBJB once the dealership finally diagnosed it correctly.

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