VegStang

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My Chrysler is very similar (as to be expected) and see about 75 kWh headed down the grapevine, using the regen on cruise adds about 11 miles of charge on that 3 mile stretch. Same with hitting the brakes until about 5 mph when the discs get used.

My Fiat 500e does blending regen with the brake pedal. When slowing down on a highway exit I'll see 80kW+ in regen, but only when pressing the brake pedal. There is no configuration of regen or 1-pedal possible. At around 4-5 mph there is a noticeable change in negative g's when the regen falls to zero and it feels like the brakes are doing more work. Everything in the 500e is supplied by Bosch...
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We own a M3, and it has had more service calls than both my 2010 F-150 and 2014 Explorer combined. I am not speaking out of naivety. Also, I had a close friend work on the end of line QC at the Tesla factory for almost a year before he quit due to management changing guidelines of what he should pass through final inspection just to make quotas of getting cars out the door. He rejected more cars that he passed due to issues, but those "acceptable" thresholds kept getting widened away from the good end of the spectrum before he had enough and quit.
Wow!
 

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Got my sticker today, CA Rt 1, build is scheduled for next week. Sticker shows EPA numbers: 108 MPGe City, 94 MPGe Highway, EPA Combined MPGe = 101 (3 mi/kWh). Annual estimated fuel cost $650 (mine will be $0!). My 2019 Kona Electric EPA MPGe = 120 (3.6 mi/kWh), but I have averaged 4.0 mi/kWh for 18000 miles of combined driving. Note: I drive the Kona in my own version of "spirited" mode. My freeway cruise is generally set at 75 mph, with some long stretches to 80 mph, drops my short term average to 3.5 for that kind of trip. My present expectation for the CA Rt 1 is around 3.3 mi/kWh.
 

timbop

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Got my sticker today, CA Rt 1, build is scheduled for next week. Sticker shows EPA numbers: 108 MPGe City, 94 MPGe Highway, EPA Combined MPGe = 101 (3 mi/kWh). Annual estimated fuel cost $650 (mine will be $0!). My 2019 Kona Electric EPA MPGe = 120 (3.6 mi/kWh), but I have averaged 4.0 mi/kWh for 18000 miles of combined driving. Note: I drive the Kona in my own version of "spirited" mode. My freeway cruise is generally set at 75 mph, with some long stretches to 80 mph, drops my short term average to 3.5 for that kind of trip. My present expectation for the CA Rt 1 is around 3.3 mi/kWh.
Don't forget that the MPGe number includes the charging overhead; it's the 305/88 that measures what we see reported by the car when driving. With the aeros and 18" wheels I think the "real" number should have been 315, but like all Ford's numbers they sandbagged down to 305.
 

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Don't forget that the MPGe number includes the charging overhead; it's the 305/88 that measures what we see reported by the car when driving. With the aeros and 18" wheels I think the "real" number should have been 315, but like all Ford's numbers they sandbagged down to 305.
So, to compare with my Kona, I can expect something like 3.5 mi/kWh or better? That would be pretty nice. And my Kona calcs out to 4.0 from 258/64.
 


timbop

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So, to compare with my Kona, I can expect something like 3.5 mi/kWh or better? That would be pretty nice. And my Kona calcs out to 4.0 from 258/64.
If you have the right mix of driving conditions, yes. On my 100 mile a day commute I average almost exactly 50 miles an hour (30 miles on highway each way), so I expect to average around 3.25 in spring/fall with my Rt1. Getting 3.5 would be nice, but since the EPA's highway tests average 48mph that's pretty close to my average. I got 3.25 by figuring out the overhead from the published 101 MPGe being about 15% and then adjusting the 94 MPGe for highway driving.

rounded numbers:
305mi/88kwh = 3.47 mi/kwh
101mpge/33.7 = 3 mi/kwh
3.47/33.7 = 1.15
94mpge/33.7=2.8 mi/kwh
2.8*1.15=3.22 mi/kwh highway
 

dbsb3233

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So, to compare with my Kona, I can expect something like 3.5 mi/kWh or better? That would be pretty nice. And my Kona calcs out to 4.0 from 258/64.
For mostly city driving, perhaps. I wouldn't expect anything close to that for 75 MPH though.
 

Ricmic8560

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For Extended Range Premium:
1605896258943.png


Looks like they did hit the 270 mark exactly then for the AWD-EX models. More interested in real world reports after delivery though.
I wish Ford would make the drive train warranty the same as the battery warranty and add 1 year and 12k miles to the bumper2bumper warranty? I always hated that about the warranties on American and Japanese cars.
Also, I am all about the efficiency numbers. Ok this invoice shows the model is for the AWD ER battery and it is rated at 96 city and 84 highway and 37Kwh per 100 miles and 270 miles range on a 88Kwh usable or 99Kwh pack. While the MY AWD is rated 127city and 114 highway, 326 miles range, I think it was either 28Kwh per 100 miles on a 75Kwh battery pack? Of course everyone knows the posted numbers are not a guarantee of those results. I don't see Ford opening up that top end 11Kwh buffer to increase the range by 31 miles city and 30 miles highway? Let's wait and see what of results the test drive reviewers come up with in a few weeks when they can keep the cars for a week or so to get full charge and depletion of the battery and record their results of range.
 
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Ricmic8560

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If you have the right mix of driving conditions, yes. On my 100 mile a day commute I average almost exactly 50 miles an hour (30 miles on highway each way), so I expect to average around 3.25 in spring/fall with my Rt1. Getting 3.5 would be nice, but since the EPA's highway tests average 48mph that's pretty close to my average. I got 3.25 by figuring out the overhead from the published 101 MPGe being about 15% and then adjusting the 94 MPGe for highway driving.

rounded numbers:
305mi/88kwh = 3.47 mi/kwh
101mpge/33.7 = 3 mi/kwh
3.47/33.7 = 1.15
94mpge/33.7=2.8 mi/kwh
2.8*1.15=3.22 mi/kwh highway
That all sounds good if you can drive at 50 mph on a highway that has no traffic lights. But that is not real world driving. When I drive on the highway, its 70-80 mph and even at that speed people are on your tail? I am a conservative driver and I don't mind staying in the right lane as long as possible. I don't like driving behind large trucks so there goes the efficiency for a little while? i don't want to have to drive 5mph under the speed limit on the highway just to get a good efficiency number? Then on top of all that, you have to deduct for using the heater/AC, accessories, road conditions and your route. If your car sits outside in the cold, unplugged all day, more battery is depleted.
 

Kamuelaflyer

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That all sounds good if you can drive at 50 mph on a highway that has no traffic lights. But that is not real world driving. When I drive on the highway, its 70-80 mph and even at that speed people are on your tail? I am a conservative driver and I don't mind staying in the right lane as long as possible. I don't like driving behind large trucks so there goes the efficiency for a little while? i don't want to have to drive 5mph under the speed limit on the highway just to get a good efficiency number? Then on top of all that, you have to deduct for using the heater/AC, accessories, road conditions and your route. If your car sits outside in the cold, unplugged all day, more battery is depleted.
That's the reality of electric vehicle driving, no matter the make or model. High Speed? Less range. Air Conditioning? Less range. Running heat? Less range.
 

timbop

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That all sounds good if you can drive at 50 mph on a highway that has no traffic lights. But that is not real world driving. When I drive on the highway, its 70-80 mph and even at that speed people are on your tail? I am a conservative driver and I don't mind staying in the right lane as long as possible. I don't like driving behind large trucks so there goes the efficiency for a little while? i don't want to have to drive 5mph under the speed limit on the highway just to get a good efficiency number? Then on top of all that, you have to deduct for using the heater/AC, accessories, road conditions and your route. If your car sits outside in the cold, unplugged all day, more battery is depleted.
As I said the 50mph is a rough average. As I also said, I do about 30 miles on the new jersey turnpike, and then 20 on residential red light to red light streets. In the morning that 50 miles (close to 47 or 48 mi) takes me just under an hour. On my trip home there are a couple of brutal lefts (they are easy rights in the morning), so it takes me 1:05 to 1:10 to cover that same distance.

I qualified everything I said with it being MY commuting situation, and my assertion about the math. Driving ONLY on the highway at 75 mph will of course yield different results.
 

dbsb3233

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That's the reality of electric vehicle driving, no matter the make or model. High Speed? Less range. Air Conditioning? Less range. Running heat? Less range.
And potential buyers feeling like they can't use those basic functions?... No buy.
 

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And potential buyers feeling like they can't use those basic functions?... No buy.
If they feel that way, they’re ignorant and need to be educated. Of course you can use all those things. You know that, I know that. But if they feel like they have to be able to drive literally 6 hours without a stop no matter what? Well nothing is going to help with that.
 

dbsb3233

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If they feel that way, they’re ignorant and need to be educated. Of course you can use all those things. You know that, I know that. But if they feel like they have to be able to drive literally 6 hours without a stop no matter what? Well nothing is going to help with that.
Well, yes and no. As we all know, it depend greatly on the conditions, the routes, the availability of chargers, etc. Many routes are doable, but not all. And many are doable but might require compromise by slowing down, turning off climate control, etc. Those are the ones I'm talking about.

If I lived in a cold weather location and had a regular 150 mile drive without DCFC in the middle, I probably wouldn't buy a BEV. That wouldn't be ignorant, that would be an informed decision, after learning that "270 miles of range" might really be a realistic 120 in freezing temps. Having to go without heat or slowing down just aren't viable options. Better to buy PHEV or ICE if you have to do that.

Fortunately most people aren't doing regular 150 mile drives in the cold. Which is fine because not everyone needs to buy a BEV.
 

Kamuelaflyer

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Well, yes and no. As we all know, it depend greatly on the conditions, the routes, the availability of chargers, etc. Many routes are doable, but not all. And many are doable but might require compromise by slowing down, turning off climate control, etc. Those are the ones I'm talking about.

If I lived in a cold weather location and had a regular 150 mile drive without DCFC in the middle, I probably wouldn't buy a BEV. That wouldn't be ignorant, that would be an informed decision, after learning that "270 miles of range" might really be a realistic 120 in freezing temps. Having to go without heat or slowing down just aren't viable options for most. Better to buy PHEV or ICE if you have to do that.

Fortunately most people aren't doing regular 150 miles drives in the cold. Which is fine because not everyone needs to buy a BEV.
All of that is part of the education potential BEV owners will need to do. I have no issues with someone saying their vehicle has to make <insert route here> or I can’t buy it as long as it’s a realistic expectation (asking for 600 mile range in -20 F weather isn’t realistic for example). BEVs aren’t for everyone or every situation but they can do just as well as ICE vehicles for most uses
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