ZuleMME

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I'm using the windshid suction mount that was included with my DFR9. I have it pushed up to where the black dots are. The suction cups are as partially under the headliner to the edge of the glass. So far it's been working. I haven't ordered a universal visor mount yet. Thanks for reminding. me because I doubt the cups will hold up in cold weather. I'll order the universal mount tonight before I get sidetracked again.
Usually suctions cups work better in the cold because cold air causes the vacuum to increase. It’s summer heat that expands and breaks the vacuum. Assuming your seal is good…
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roadshow

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Usually suctions cups work better in the cold because cold air causes the vacuum to increase. It’s summer heat that expands and breaks the vacuum. Assuming your seal is good…
That hasn't been my experience. They don't hold up as well for me in winter. Then it's almost possible to reattach because the plastic becomes rigid.
 

roadshow

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Please let me know if you've figured this out yet. I was thinking the same thing; if we can get it into the headliner it would be perfect. I can't use the OEM suction cup mount because the angle doesn't allow the detector to lock in, so it just slides off when I accelerate..which is all the time. haha

I received the mount. It does. fit under the head liner, but it's. thin metal and has to be beefed up with.something like thin foam to keep it's secured in the head liner.
 

Tcoll

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I decided to venture and do this without any help or wiring diagrams. I couldn't find ANY resources online for any reference. I managed to figure it out and I took photos along the way to help others that may be wanting to do the same.

I've done many mirror taps in the past, but this one was a bit intimidating, not knowing where to tap because of all the unusually color coded wires, and all the tech involved in this piece.

PLEASE PLEASE be VERY careful removing the plastic housing. I don't want to be responsible for anyone breaking this piece. Be gentle and take your time.

Circled is the terminal that you will be using removing and tapping into. The release is on the top, towards the windshield.
File_000.jpeg


Testing the taps:
File_002.jpeg


The Black Wire is the neutral/ground. Connect the Black tap wire to this. The White Wire is the 12v switched lead. Connect the Red tap wire to this.
File_005.jpeg


This is what it looks like tapped:
File_006.jpeg


Testing:
File_007.jpeg


Vehicle off:
File_003.jpeg


Vehicle on:
File_004.jpeg


Complete!
File_009.jpeg


File_008.jpeg
Thank you so much!! This worked like a charm. I used the blend mount kit.
 

sharkcom

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I decided to venture and do this without any help or wiring diagrams. I couldn't find ANY resources online for any reference. I managed to figure it out and I took photos along the way to help others that may be wanting to do the same.

I've done many mirror taps in the past, but this one was a bit intimidating, not knowing where to tap because of all the unusually color coded wires, and all the tech involved in this piece.

PLEASE PLEASE be VERY careful removing the plastic housing. I don't want to be responsible for anyone breaking this piece. Be gentle and take your time.

Circled is the terminal that you will be using removing and tapping into. The release is on the top, towards the windshield.
File_000.jpeg


Testing the taps:
File_002.jpeg


The Black Wire is the neutral/ground. Connect the Black tap wire to this. The White Wire is the 12v switched lead. Connect the Red tap wire to this.
File_005.jpeg


This is what it looks like tapped:
File_006.jpeg


Testing:
File_007.jpeg


Vehicle off:
File_003.jpeg


Vehicle on:
File_004.jpeg


Complete!
File_009.jpeg


File_008.jpeg
Could you tell me what specific Mirror Tap cable you used as I noticed there are different diameter sizes of the tap wire? Many thanks for the write up!
 

sharkcom

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Could anyone tell me what specific Mirror Tap cable you used as I noticed there are different diameter sizes of the tap wire? Thanks!
 
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jdmrc93

jdmrc93

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breeves002

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Any idea if there's a circuit with constant voltage up there?
Pin 7 on the overhead console I think is constant 12v. VT/GY wire according to the diagrams.

Keep in mind small constant loads like a dash cam can mess up the BMS for the 12v battery.
 

GrumblesTheDog

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Keep in mind small constant loads like a dash cam can mess up the BMS for the 12v battery.
That's interesting - is that something unique to how you access 12V (ie tapping into an existing circuit in the mirror housing) or would that apply to any form of hardwiring? I don't doubt you, but it seems like you'd hear of more battery issues with dashcam users than you do.
 

breeves002

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That's interesting - is that something unique to how you access 12V (ie tapping into an existing circuit in the mirror housing) or would that apply to any form of hardwiring? I don't doubt you, but it seems like you'd hear of more battery issues with dashcam users than you do.
The BMS is bad about small loads on it when the car is off. It's like it goes to sleep or something. Then the battery SoC is lower than it thinks when you turn the car back on. I have heard of a lot of issues with this in various Fords. If the load is large enough it isn't an issue but really small trickle loads over days is what causes the most issues I think. @Mach-Lee should be able to elaborate. Or he'll tell me I'm completely wrong.
 

Mach-Lee

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That's interesting - is that something unique to how you access 12V (ie tapping into an existing circuit in the mirror housing) or would that apply to any form of hardwiring? I don't doubt you, but it seems like you'd hear of more battery issues with dashcam users than you do.
The BMS doesn't like it if the total idle power draw is more than 100 mA (including the idle module draw), otherwise it can't sense the battery's state properly. So if your radar detector or dash camera uses more than about 50 mA of power, then it needs to be on the switched 12V to avoid battery drain problems.

There have been a number of people with low 12V battery issues, I have to think at least of few of these are related to running 12V accessories without them realizing it.
 
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