Preparing for Mach-E charging at home - preparation and installing charger

DaveRuns

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Simply swapping out the breaker probably isn't an option, as the thickness of the wiring in the circuit to the outlet is usually sized to match that breaker size. That would typically require all new wiring too, which is basically a whole new install. So you're basically limited to a 30A outlet now.

I think we've heard that the Ford Mobile Charger that comes with the vehicle will auto-detect the current in the line and automatically downstep, but don't quote me on that. It would need to be confirmed. If it doesn't, you can always buy another charger that works at 24A or 16A. There's plenty on Amazon and elsewhere. 24A is the max you can draw from a 30A circuit (80%). Of course, the vehicle will charge slower, but it should still be fast enough to do a nightly charge just fine for most people. A 32A charger is supposed to add 21 miles per hour, so you can scale that accordingly (24A would add about 16 miles/hr, a 16A about 11/hr).

Many of the Amazon chargers are cheap Chinese makes though. Clipper Creek and Juicebox are more trusted names, but also more expensive. Some of us are getting the Grizzl-E, which can be set at 16A/24A/32A/40A ($412). There's a few other good brands too. There are 2 or 3 different outlet plug choices too, so make sure you get the right one for your existing outlet (or get an adpater).
I think I’m gonna go with the JuiceBox 40. I’ll have an electrician put in a 240v / 40 amp circuit and an outlet in the garage. I’ll plug in the JuiceBox to the 14-50 outlet. I’ll let the MME charge at 32 Amps. 21 mph is perfect for me.
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deekmd

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I’m not sure this is the correct thread to ask this but I purchased a home a few years ago from a homeowner with an EV. They took the level 2 charging station but the EV charger is wired. The electric panel is outside the garage and they wired it through a conduit through the wall into the garage interior. They installed a 60amp disconnect (I think this was required because the panel isn’t in the garage itself and outside line of site). the wiring looks like it goes into the disconnect box but there’s nothing else.

Here’s my question - when I purchase a level 2 charger, does it simply wire into the disconnect box? I will hire an electrician to do the work but just wanted to know what I was getting into. No prior experience with this stuff so apologies for the noob question.

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zhackwyatt

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I already have a 240/30 outlet in my garage on a 30 AMP breaker. Let's assume I get the Ford portable charger with the car. If I understand all this, I set the charge to a maximum of 24 amps and I am good to go since in my case I can let it charge overnight. The question is can I set the charger or the car to never exceed 24 amps or do I need to swap in a 40 amp breaker and all that may imply to avoid having the charger try to pull 32 amps? What are the options for an existing 240/30 amp circuit?
First of all, I'm not an electrician. I just play one on online car forums -- probably poorly.

Second, I"m pretty sure if it is a 30 AMP breaker, then it should have a NEMA 14-30 connector (commonly used for electric dryers) and not 14-50 (commonly used for electric ovens). As far as I know the Ford mobile charger will come with a NEMA 5-15 (normal 120v 15amp outlet) and a NEMA 14-50 connector. So it wouldn't work in your outlet. We are hoping that you can buy an additional adapter for a 14-30 outlet. Which adapter is in place is most likely how the EVSE knows what amperage is available.
 

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They installed a 60amp disconnect...
If there is a 60 amp breaker in that panel and at the other end of that conduit (in your main panel), and the wiring is the correct size, you are on easy street. Just buy a 48amp charger and have your electrician wire it into that box and attach it to a wall. It should take less than 30 minutes including a coffee break.
 


dbsb3233

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If there is a 60 amp breaker in that panel and at the other end of that conduit (in your main panel), and the wiring is the correct size, you are on easy street. Just buy a 48amp charger and have your electrician wire it into that box and attach it to a wall. It should take less than 30 minutes including a coffee break.
Yep, looks like he's all set for a hardwire charger to connect into that box. Looks like the metal conduit with the curve is the supply from the outside main panel. That should still all be intact. The little 3" gray plastic conduit coming out of the box is where the charger was wired into. The new charger would just be wired in through that.

Or if he bought one with a plug instead of a hardwire connection, the electrician could just wire a 240V outlet from that box to plug into. Either way should work.
 

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Simply swapping out the breaker probably isn't an option, as the thickness of the wiring in the circuit to the outlet is usually sized to match that breaker size. That would typically require all new wiring too, which is basically a whole new install. So you're basically limited to a 30A outlet now.

I think we've heard that the Ford Mobile Charger that comes with the vehicle will auto-detect the current in the line and automatically downstep, but don't quote me on that. It would need to be confirmed. If it doesn't, you can always buy another charger that works at 24A or 16A. There's plenty on Amazon and elsewhere. 24A is the max you can draw from a 30A circuit (80%). Of course, the vehicle will charge slower, but it should still be fast enough to do a nightly charge just fine for most people. A 32A charger is supposed to add 21 miles per hour, so you can scale that accordingly (24A would add about 16 miles/hr, a 16A about 11/hr).

Many of the Amazon chargers are cheap Chinese makes though. Clipper Creek and Juicebox are more trusted names, but also more expensive. Some of us are getting the Grizzl-E, which can be set at 16A/24A/32A/40A ($412). There's a few other good brands too. There are 2 or 3 different outlet plug choices too, so make sure you get the right one for your existing outlet (or get an adpater).
Thanks good input. I will wait on doing anything till we have better Information from Ford or I have the car. (can't wait).
 

crownmountain

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I am not sure what features the Ford provided EVSE will have. I presume it's solid state. If so, then some of those units have some user control buttons where they can specify the amp draw. If so, then set to 24 amps and you should be okay. Again....can't really say until we see the actual unit.

To my knowledge, I don't think you can control the amp draw from the in car controls or the Ford app. When the owner's manual is released then we might see a feature like that. I am kinda hoping that something is in there for this use.

Originally, I had decided I was going to stick with my 32 amp Aerovironment RS L2 EVSE that I already own because it will work fine. However, I am now becoming interested in the Ford Connected Wall EVSE. If it has a feature where I can throttle the current flow then I will purchase and install that unit.

Right now when I turn off my FFE, it displays a graphic on the Sync 3 screen that says when charging will start and when it will be completed. On the dash screen, it displays which charge mode it is in (Value Charge or Charge Now). I have a few seconds to change the charge mode with the steering wheel controls. Love that feature and the start/end charge time info.....very helpful.

It would be very cool if the MME lets me adjust the charge rate with the Ford Connected EVSE so I can throttle it down from 48 amps to something less and the charge end time graphic would adjust as I play with the controls.

For instance.....let's say I am arriving home after work and the car is set to Value Charge. So, charging would be scheduled to start at 11:00 pm and finish around 12:30 or 1:00 am most nights. Let's say I don't need my car until 6:30 the next morning. In that scenario I would prefer to charge at a slower speed since I have plenty of time to play with. If there was a control in the Sync 4 menu where I lower the charge rate and the projected charge complete time adjusts then that would be super cool. Something I would use for sure during the summer because sometimes it stays in the triple digit temps overnight! In those cases, I would prefer not to charge at maximum speed just to keep the battery temp lower. Yes, I know these have a cooling system but still would prefer a slower speed when the opportunity is there.
That all would be quite handy as I do have an unused 30 amp in addition to my 30 amp for the garage and so I could swap it out for a 60 amp. However when I spoke to an electrician about doing the work in order to stay in compliance with local codes and my insurance company they wanted $1000 to do that. If the charger can adjust automatically or by way of a setting I think I'd rather go that way then spend $1000. I think the lower charge rate for me is not a bad thing.
 

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First of all, I'm not an electrician. I just play one on online car forums -- probably poorly.

Second, I"m pretty sure if it is a 30 AMP breaker, then it should have a NEMA 14-30 connector (commonly used for electric dryers) and not 14-50 (commonly used for electric ovens). As far as I know the Ford mobile charger will come with a NEMA 5-15 (normal 120v 15amp outlet) and a NEMA 14-50 connector. So it wouldn't work in your outlet. We are hoping that you can buy an additional adapter for a 14-30 outlet. Which adapter is in place is most likely how the EVSE knows what amperage is available.
Yes it is a 14-30.
 

deekmd

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Yep, looks like he's all set for a hardwire charger to connect into that box. Looks like the metal conduit with the curve is the supply from the outside main panel. That should still all be intact. The little 3" gray plastic conduit coming out of the box is where the charger was wired into. The new charger would just be wired in through that.

Or if he bought one with a plug instead of a hardwire connection, the electrician could just wire a 240V outlet from that box to plug into. Either way should work.
Awesome! Thank you!
 

deekmd

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If there is a 60 amp breaker in that panel and at the other end of that conduit (in your main panel), and the wiring is the correct size, you are on easy street. Just buy a 48amp charger and have your electrician wire it into that box and attach it to a wall. It should take less than 30 minutes including a coffee break.
thank you appreciate the reply
 
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GoGoGadgetMachE

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. I've never done 240v but I watched some videos and it looks just as easy (a bit simpler, actually).
"Tim's service will be held on Sunday. All are welcome!" ?
 

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"Tim's service will be held on Sunday. All are welcome!" ?
However, due to Covid, it will be drive by. If any Ford employees testing Mach E's wish to attend, it would be appreciated.
 
 




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