Shopping for a Home Charger

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dbsb3233

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I believe you generally are not required to use a GFCI receptacle/breaker for dedicated circuits. Like your washing machine/dryer/etc which should hold true for your EVSE receptacle as well.
That's a good point. The dryer has an outlet plug too that technically could be unplugged and something else plugged into. And it's around water (the laundry tub next to it in my laundry room has GFCI outlets above it). So I suppose this is the same thing, as long as it's a dedicated circuit (single outlet) for a designated purpose.

Of course, being on the wall in garage really doesn't prevent someone from temporarily unplugging it and plugging in a welder or something. But I suppose there just has to be a level of trust.
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It looks to me like the wire is one of the most expensive aspects of this project, so a shorter run would be better. I looked at that wire at Lowes, and was "shocked" (pun intended) as to how thick and stiff it is -especially once you go below the 6 gauge wire. I found the web page I am giving a link to - when you put the amperage into the calculator, do any of you electrical wizards know if you calculate based on the breaker (for example for a 48 amp draw you should have a 60 amp breaker) or based on the draw - 48 amps in this case. I want to see what the electrician says too when they come to give me an estimate.
http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1
 

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It looks to me like the wire is one of the most expensive aspects of this project, so a shorter run would be better. I looked at that wire at Lowes, and was "shocked" (pun intended) as to how thick and stiff it is -especially once you go below the 6 gauge wire. I found the web page I am giving a link to - when you put the amperage into the calculator, do any of you electrical wizards know if you calculate based on the breaker (for example for a 48 amp draw you should have a 60 amp breaker) or based on the draw - 48 amps in this case. I want to see what the electrician says too when they come to give me an estimate.
http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1
You base it on the rated amperage of the breaker - so for a 50A breaker, you'd want 6AWG copper, 60A would need 4AWG and so on.

If any of you are considering a plug for now, but may want to future proof for a larger unit in the future - you can run 4AWG on your 50A circuit with a receptacle for now, and just swap out the breaker and hardwire in the future for a 60A circuit.
 
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dbsb3233

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It looks to me like the wire is one of the most expensive aspects of this project, so a shorter run would be better. I looked at that wire at Lowes, and was "shocked" (pun intended) as to how thick and stiff it is -especially once you go below the 6 gauge wire. I found the web page I am giving a link to - when you put the amperage into the calculator, do any of you electrical wizards know if you calculate based on the breaker (for example for a 48 amp draw you should have a 60 amp breaker) or based on the draw - 48 amps in this case. I want to see what the electrician says too when they come to give me an estimate.
http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1
Don't "know" know, but it has to be the 60A. Otherwise what's the point of breaker protection if the wiring can fail first?
 

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Don't "know" know, but it has to be the 60A. Otherwise what's the point of breaker protection if the wiring can fail first?
That makes logical sense, but I often find out my logic can be faulty when it comes to actual practice. Thanks.
 


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It looks to me like the wire is one of the most expensive aspects of this project, so a shorter run would be better. I looked at that wire at Lowes, and was "shocked" (pun intended) as to how thick and stiff it is -especially once you go below the 6 gauge wire. I found the web page I am giving a link to - when you put the amperage into the calculator, do any of you electrical wizards know if you calculate based on the breaker (for example for a 48 amp draw you should have a 60 amp breaker) or based on the draw - 48 amps in this case. I want to see what the electrician says too when they come to give me an estimate.
http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1

The wire gauge is based on current draw, length and type of run (underground, conduit, house walls), and electrical inspector interpretation of electrical code. An honest electrician will give you the answer. If the distance from the electrical breaker panel to the outlet/charger is less than 100 feet, likely 6 gauge will do the job with a 60amp breaker. Longer runs will mean larger gauge (4 ga), etc., to keep voltage drop within spec. The breaker is sized to the wire, and the wire sized for the electrical load.
 

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The wire gauge is based on current draw, length and type of run (underground, conduit, house walls), and electrical inspector interpretation of electrical code. An honest electrician will give you the answer. If the distance from the electrical breaker panel to the outlet/charger is less than 100 feet, likely 6 gauge will do the job with a 60amp breaker. Longer runs will mean larger gauge (4 ga), etc., to keep voltage drop within spec. The breaker is sized to the wire, and the wire sized for the electrical load.
Well, my run is either going to be about 15 feet, or about double that depending on where I decide to place the outlet. My panel is very near my garage in the basement. I’ve already touched base with an electrician, but he is busy until the end of the month.
 

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Nope - Amperage rating generally doesn't increase the cost/price of the breaker. If you have any local electrical distributors nearby, you could probably get that breaker and other supplies cheaper than a big box store.

In regards to a GFCI breaker...

I believe you generally are not required to use a GFCI receptacle/breaker for dedicated circuits. Like your washing machine/dryer/etc which should hold true for your EVSE receptacle as well.
You are correct dedicated circuits generally do not need GFCI. There are certain high amp circuits requiring GFCI; jacuzzis, hot-tubs, any/all circuitry for a swimming pool. Also, a GFCI is not required but, can be used. Had a 50 amp GFCI hot-tub circuit not in use, moved it to a hardwire Level 2 charger.
 

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You are correct dedicated circuits generally do not need GFCI. There are certain high amp circuits requiring GFCI; jacuzzis, hot-tubs, any/all circuitry for a swimming pool. Also, a GFCI is not required but, can be used. Had a 50 amp GFCI hot-tub circuit not in use, moved it to a hardwire Level 2 charger.
GFCI are typically required where a person can have all or part of their body in water, like near a pool, sink, bathtub, hot tub, etc. So if you charge within 6 ft. of your bathtub, you need a GFCI :)
 

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Note that the EVSE is a GFCI that is part of its function--to stop the high voltage high current flow safely in the event of an issue (ground fault).
 

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Not worried now, based on feedback. Probably a typo. Just hope dealer parts doesn't start stocking up on 15-50 jacks, plugs, adapters, chargers... :)
Estimate received: 240v 50a circuit installed with 14-50 outlet $529. Now to decide on plug-in charger.
 

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Estimate received: 240v 50a circuit installed with 14-50 outlet $529. Now to decide on plug-in charger.
Juicebox 40 ordered. $641.23 OTD. Free Shipping!
 

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Juicebox 40 ordered. $641.23 OTD. Free Shipping!
Any particular reason you went with the Juicebox? And how far was your wire run from panel to outlet?
 

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Any particular reason you went with the Juicebox? And how far was your wire run from panel to outlet?
Chose this one after researching top rated plug-ins. Another unit worried me because WiFi app controls charging and comments about app problems. Wire run will be from panel in garage to back wall in center bay. No more than 30 feet. Installer indicated 4 gauge wiring.
 

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Juicebox 40 ordered. $641.23 OTD. Free Shipping!
Please take good notes and feel free to do a video un-boxing....as that is the product I am thinking of ordering. Are you installing yourself, or hiring an electrician?
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