21st Century Pony

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Folks,

North American Mach Es have only two cargo rings in the trunk - both placed right on the hatch lip. However, non-N.A. Mach Es have all four cargo ring anchor points in the trunk. The two cargo ring anchor points missing in North America are designed to go right into the side wall divots toward the front of the trunk, just behind the seats.

This thread will give you information how to order and install these missing front OEM Ford cargo ring anchor points into the North American Mach E, regardless of model or trim. I just installed my set.

Tools needed:
1x 13 mm socket
1x 8 mm socket
1x large / robust pull-type trim tool... I used one with a bent handle with a finger hole in the bend to give the sidewall trim panels a good pull.
(likely needed) 1 Dremel steel rotary high speed steel cutter bit... I used Dremel tool bit #117. Alternately, a round small hand file would work.
(likely needed) 1x drill bit equal to or just larger than the diameter of the front ring anchor point. I used a 15/64 drill bit but anything close to that will work.
a sharp knife. I used a steak knife 'cause it was handy.
1x T-20 Torx bit.
a large rubber mallet, to tap trim panels back into place. Nice to have, not necessary.

Parts needed:
1x LJ8Z - 58550A74 - A... left side cargo ring riveted to its steel plate. NOT AVAILABLE THRU FORD USA PARTS COUNTERS!
1x LJ8Z - 58550A74 - B... right side cargo ring riveted to its steel plate. NOT AVAILABLE THRU FORD USA PARTS COUNTERS!
4x 13 mm coarse thread nuts. Available at any hardware store. I used nuts with built-in NyLock inserts.
4x 13 mm steel washers. Available at any hardware store.

Time needed: 1 hour or far less, depending on your handiness and experience tinkering.

What is already built into our North American Mach Es:
4x strong 13 mm bolts for the missing cargo anchor points, built into the metal side walls of the trunk, underneath the trim panels, 2x per side wall.
2x above-mentioned divots in the sidewall trunk trim to shield the OEM cargo ring anchor points from the movable cargo floor. NOTE: these side wall divots may already have slits for these front cargo anchor points, albeit covered with the trim surface felt... or they may not. My left sidewall trim panel divot did have this slit, while my right sidewall trim panel did not. If it's there, you can feel it through the surface felt with your finger.

Pictures of the missing cargo anchor points and of several key installation points are all at the bottom of this post.

Steps:
1. Take everything above the moveable floor out of the trunk. Take the moveable floor out as well. Take everything out of the little corner trunk pockets by the hatch. You can leave the OEM tire inflator and the styrofoam center piece in the floor well.
2. Take out the small rectangular hatch locking trim on the threshold of the trunk. It just pops out.
3. Unscrew the two rear cargo ring bolts with the T-20 Torx bit. The Torx bolt is underneath the black plastic cover inside the chrome ring.
4. Unscrew the two horizontal 8 mm gray bolts that secure the trunk threshold, from the inside of the trunk.
5. Gently pull off the rubber hatch body seal from the bottom and sides of the welded metal body lip. You need to pull off the entire bottom length and then go up the sides ONLY to the horizontal seam between the sidewall trim panels. You can leave this seal gently flapping, or even just hanging on by its edge... the key here is to get the rubber seal's lip off of the black trim panels.
6. Pop the plastic hatch threshold out with the trim tool. It pops straight up. Nothing much to break here... all its trim latches are metal.
7. Start on the Left (driver's) side. That's what I did. It actually doesn't matter EXCEPT the right side has some electric connectors on the trim panel, so it's easier to do the left side 1st because it's simpler. Here the trim tool with a good bend to grab onto and a hole to pull with becomes valuable. Start at the top outer edge of the main side trim panel and PULL that thang off from the edge toward the center of the hatch. It will come off after hesitation.
8. Go to the bottom of that trim sidewall panel, where you now see two slits where the black threshold trim had been clipped into. Lift this bottom part with the trim tool straight up about 1 -2 inches until it is free.
9. Now go back to the top of that sidewall trim panel. It's clipped into the top wall trim panel with the same metal clips as the threshold had. Pull, clip by clip, until most (not/not all) of the sidewall main trim panel is hanging in the trunk, still attached by its front part by the rear seat backs.
NOTE: It may seem easier at this point to consider pulling the whole trim panel off completely. I have done so on another mod project, and advise against it. Why: to get the entire trim panel back on afterwards, you will have to pull out the rear seat backs out of the car. Not impossible, but not quite a walk in the park either. You will also have to remove two more trim panels in the rear door. My advice, for this project, is to just leave the front clipped in to save yourself time and frustration.
10: You are now in the fun part of the project. Look behind the flapping trim panel. On the front inside metal surface of the wheel well area, you will see two strong long metal bolts painted white, just sitting there with nothing to do, spaced diagonally relative each other. These are the body bolts that are meant to receive the missing cargo anchor point plates. See the pix at the bottom of this post for an idea how comparatively massive those missing steel plates are.
11. Now feel the divot in the trim panel you just pulled off the wall. Feel it from the cargo area side, and also from its hidden side. If you are lucky, you will feel the slit in the plastic, covered on the trunk side with a thin layer of felt. Or... you will feel a smooth wall of plastic, with no slit.
11A. If you feel a slit, your job just got really easy. Take a sharp knife and cut an equivalent slit in the felt cover.
11B. If you have no slit in the divot, you need to make one to accomodate the cargo anchor ring. That plastic is tough stuff BTW... hence the drill and the Dremel steel high speed cutter bit. I had a slit in my driver's side trim panel, and NO slit in the passenger side trim panel... go figure. WHAT I DID ON THE PASSENGER SIDE PANEL to make the slit: I got a short piece of 2 x 4, which likely we all have laying around the garage or basement etc, and placed it behind the flapping trim panel, to brace it and to have a sacrificial surface to cut / drill / Dremel into. Then, I drilled a hole where I expected one end of the cargo anchor point to likely show (you can cowboy-estimate this part... it's not a Space Shuttle). This plastic is so tough that I could not easily cut my way through... even the sharp drill took a bit of time. Once the hole was drilled, I used the Dremel steel high-speed cutter tool to er, Dremel a horizontal slit line across 80% of the divot's recessed centerline. This here was the longest part of the whole project... I wish you to find two pre-slitted divots in your panels haha.
12. Once the slits are made, just bolt the big steel plate in place with the two washers and the two 13 mm nuts.
13. Pop the side trim panel back into place. There are three (3) tricks here:
Trick #1: before you start popping it into place, look behind at the business side of the trim panel. There are the many metal clasps... those are easy once things are lined up. There are also three big yellow plug clasps. Hopefully, none had fallen off their holding brackets or got stuck in the body metal wall. If any yellow plug clasp is off its trim panel bracket, slide it back into its place. If any yellow plug clasp has gotten stuck in the body metal wall, get it loose and back into its hanger bracket on the trim panel before snapping the panel back in place.
Trick #2: there are also at least two BIG, LONG stationary black guiding protrusions which are a non-removable part of the trim panel and go into dedicated holes in the body metal wall... please CHECK that these long black guide fingers are straight and use them to guide the trim panel back into place, then push the big yellow plug clasps back into position, and finally pop all the steel clasps into their positions. If you get it wrong, you will have rattles, so this is the time to take things slow and get it right.
Trick #3: look carefully at the little corner plastic pocket at the bottom of the trim panel. Its rearmost "wall" is supposed to mate with the rearmost hatch part of the trim panel. They will either be interlocked correctly, or they will not be and you will see a black gap. If you see a black gap, pull that end part of the trim panel back out and re-hook the pocket to the trim panel. If you don't hook these two parts up, you will have a weird judder-type vibration every time you accelerate. Ask me how I know haha... I learned this the hard way while undoing / redoing these same trim panels when I had installed my Ford of Europe towing hitch and its wiring harness. See pics with black gap and without that gap.
14. Once the left side is all closed up and the new cargo anchor point is sticking into the cargo area, repeat these steps on the right side, EXCEPT after you separate the rear of the trim panel away from the body, you will see a big yellow and chrome electrical connector. That's the 12V socket's back side. It has a gray plug & play connector wire. To get the gray wiring connector off, just grab it in its middle (waist) and squeeze from the bottom, and it'll let go (see pic). There is another connector further forward for the trunk light, but it's so far forward you can just leave it connected.
15. Repeat all the steps and then reverse steps #6 thru #1 to zip things back together.
16. Carefully and gently check / press the rubber seal int place all around the hatch, making sure its lip is over all the trim panels.

Prices:

Forum member Su-Ch+MachE in Germany was kind enough to help research these part numbers, order them and then forward them to me. Priced in Euro, the left and right missing cargo anchor point plates with their riveted rings cost about 47 Euro and 53 Euro (I don't know why the difference as they look like mirror images) and shipping them to me was another 21 Euro or so. This will of course vary as exchange rates vary, but you get the idea... total (not counting four 13 mm nuts and four washers, bought locally) is "about" $125.

Those who have family members or friends serving on permanent U.S. military orders in Europe are likely to get a lower price, as U.S. military permanently stationed in Europe can often avoid paying European Value Added Tax, or VAT, which can make the total price notably cheaper... and U.S. service members can use U.S. Mail from their base to get the parts home.

Availability:
Based on speed of special order delivery, it appears these two brackets are available at local European distribution centers... Su-Ch+MachE got them, once ordered, in 4 or 5 days. And BTW... they are made in Hermosillo Mexico like our own Mach Es. Go figure...

Anyone interested and wishing to see if we can bulk-order sets of these brackets, please DM me with "Cargo Rings" in the title. I will see what the demand is and if by 31 March 2023 there is enough demand, I will contact Su-Ch+MachE for a bulk order.

Sorry for the exhaustive length, and I hope this is useful. Pix are below. And oh BTW... "Thank You Ford USA for making us do all this for silly Mach E cargo ring brackets you produce across the border in Mexico" 🙄

20230304_162503.jpg


20230304_162520.jpg


20230304_162622.jpg


20230304_162928.jpg


20230304_163856.jpg


20230304_164104.jpg


20230304_164709.jpg


20230304_170001.jpg


20230304_170040.jpg


20230304_170401.jpg


20230304_171102.jpg


20230304_180754.jpg


20230304_231542.jpg

 
Last edited:

HuntingPudel

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Awesome! I wonder if our friends at @AOSK would be willing to set us up with sets of these rings like they did with the CN market GT door emblems? 😊🐩
 

markboris

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Great writeup Martin. Wanted to mention I've ordered many parts from Ford Parts UK (www.fordpartsuk.com) in the past for both my Escape (European Kuga LED tail lights, front struts, wheels, etc) and for my Focus RS (European headrests, lighting, etc.). At the time, they were great to deal with and hopefully they still are.
 

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Great work! I may have to do this one.
 


su-ch+mache

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very good describtion
great work

if you are interested let me know and I send you the cargo rings
or forward your order to @21st Century Pony and he will forward a bulk order to me
 
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dtbaker61

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Folks,

North American Mach Es have only two cargo rings in the trunk - both placed right on the hatch lip. However, non-N.A. Mach Es have all four cargo ring anchor points in the trunk. The two cargo ring anchor points missing in North America are designed to go right into the side wall divots toward the front of the trunk, just behind the seats.

This thread will give you information how to order and install these missing front OEM Ford cargo ring anchor points into the North American Mach E, regardless of model or trim. I just installed my set.

Tools needed:
1x 13 mm socket
1x 8 mm socket
1x large / robust pull-type trim tool... I used one with a bent handle with a finger hole in the bend to give the sidewall trim panels a good pull.
(likely needed) 1 Dremel steel rotary high speed steel cutter... I used Dremel tool #117. Alternately, a round small hand file would work.
(likely needed) 1x drill bit equal to or just larger than the diameter of the front ring anchor point. I used a 15/64 drill bit but anything close to that will work.
a sharp knife. I used a steak knife 'cause it was handy.
1x T-20 Torx bit.
a large rubber mallet, to tap trim panels back into place. Nice to have, not necessary.

Parts needed:
1x LJ8Z - 58550A74 - A... left side cargo ring riveted to its steel plate. NOT AVAILABLE THRU FORD USA PARTS COUNTERS!
1x LJ8Z - 58550A74 - B... right side cargo ring riveted to its steel plate. NOT AVAILABLE THRU FORD USA PARTS COUNTERS!
2x 13 mm coarse thread nuts. Available at any hardware store. I used nuts with built-in NyLock inserts.
2x 13 mm steel washers. Available at any hardware store.

Time needed: 1 hour or far less, depending on your handiness and experience tinkering.

What is already built into our North American Mach Es:
4x strong 13 mm bolts for the missing cargo anchor points, built into the metal side walls of the trunk, underneath the trim panels, 2x per side wall.
2x above-mentioned divots in the sidewall trunk trim to shield the OEM cargo ring anchor points from the movable cargo floor. NOTE: these side wall divots may already have slits for these front cargo anchor points, albeit covered with the trim surface felt... or they may not. My left sidewall trim panel divot did have this slit, while my right sidewall trim panel did not. If it's there, you can feel it through the surface felt with your finger.

Pictures of the missing cargo anchor points and of several key installation points are all at the bottom of this post.

Steps:
1. Take everything above the moveable floor out of the trunk. Take the moveable floor out as well. Take everything out of the little corner trunk pockets by the hatch. You can leave the OEM tire inflator and the styrofoam center piece in the floor well.
2. Take out the small rectangular hatch locking trim on the threshold of the trunk. It just pops out.
3. Unscrew the two rear cargo ring bolts with the T-20 Torx bit. The Torx bolt is underneath the black plastic cover inside the chrome ring.
4. Unscrew the two horizontal 8 mm gray bolts that secure the trunk threshold, from the inside of the trunk.
5. Gently pull off the rubber hatch body seal from the bottom and sides of the welded metal body lip. You need to pull off the entire bottom length and then go up the sides ONLY to the horizontal seam between the sidewall trim panels. You can leave this seal gently flapping, or even just hanging on by its edge... the key here is to get the rubber seal's lip off of the black trim panels.
6. Pop the plastic hatch threshold out with the trim tool. it pops straight up. Nothing much to break here... all its trim latches are metal.
7. Start on the Left (driver's) side. That's what I did. It actually doesn't matter EXCEPT the right side has some electric connectors on the trim panel, so it's easier to do the left side 1st because it's simpler. Here the trim tool with a good bend to grab onto and a hole to pull with becomes valuable. Start at the top outer edge of the main side trim panel and PULL that thang off from the edge toward the center of the hatch. It will come off after hesitation.
8. Go to the bottom of that trim sidewall panel, where you now see two slits where the black threshold trim had been clipped into. Lift this bottom part with the trim tool straight up about 1 -2 inches until it is free.
9. Now go to the top of that sidewall trim panel. It's clipped into the top wall trim panel with the same metal clips as the threshold had. Pull, clip by clip, until most (not/not all) of the sidewall main trim panel is hanging in the trunk, still attached by its front part by the rear seat backs.
NOTE: It may be easier at this point to consider pulling the whole trim panel off completely. I have done so on another mod project, and advise against it. Why: to get the entire trim panel back on afterwards, you will have to pull out the rear seat backs out of the car. Not impossible, but not quite a walk in the park either. You will also have to remove two more trim panels in the rear door. My advice, for this project, is to just leave the front clipped in to save yourself time and frustration.
10: You are now in the fun part of the project. Look behind the flapping trim panel. On the front inside metal surface of the wheel well area, you will see two strong long metal bolts painted white, just sitting there with nothing to do, spaced diagonally relative each other. These are the body bolts that are meant to receive the missing cargo anchor point plates. See the pix at the bottom of this post for an idea how comparatively massive those missing steel plates are.
11. Now feel the divot in the trim panel you just pulled off the wall. Feel it from the cargo area side, and also from its hidden side. If you are lucky, you will feel the slit in the plastic, covered on the trunk side with a thin layer of felt. Or... you will feel a smooth wall of plastic, with no slit.
11A. If you feel a slit, your job just got really easy. Take a sharp knife and cut an equivalent slit in the felt cover.
11B. If you have no slit in the divot, you need to make one to accomodate the cargo anchor ring. That plastic is tough stuff BTW... hence the drill and the Dremel steel high speed cutter bit. I had a slit in my driver's side trim panel, and NO slit in the passenger side trim panel... go figure. WHAT I DID ON THE PASSENGER SIDE PANEL to make the slit: I got a short piece of 2 x 4, which likely we all have laying around the garage or basement etc, and placed it behind the flapping trim panel, to brace it and to have a sacrificial surface to cut / drill / Dremel into. Then, I drilled a hole where I expected one end of the cargo anchor point to likely show (you can cowboy-estimate this part... it's not a Space Shuttle). This plastic is so tough that I could not easily cut my way through... even the sharp drill took a bit of time. Once the hole was drilled, I used the Dremel steel high-speed cutter tool to er, Dremel a horizontal slit line across 80% of the divot's recessed centerline. This here was the longest part of the whole project... I wish you to find two pre-slitted divots in your panels haha.
12. Once the slits are made, just bolt the big steel plate in place with the two washers and the two 13 mm nuts.
13. Pop the side trim panel back into place. There are three (3) tricks here:
Trick #1: before you start popping it into place, look behind at the business side of the trim panel. There are the many metal clasps... those are easy once things are lined up. There are also three big yellow plug clasps. Hopefully, none had fallen off their holding brackets or got stuck in the body metal wall. If any yellow plug clasp is off its trim panel bracket, get it back in its place. If any yellow plug clasp has gotten stuck in the body metal wall, get it loose and back into its hanger on the trim panel before snapping the panel back in place.
Trick #2: there are also at least two BIG, LONG stationary black guiding protrusions which are a non-removable part of the trim panel and go into dedicated holes in the body metal wall... please CHECK that these long black guide fingers are straight and use them to guide the trim panel back into place, then push the big yellow plug clasps back into position, and finally pop all the steel clasps into their positions. If you get it wrong, you will have rattles, so this is the time to take things slow and get it right.
Trick #3: look carefully at the little corner plastic pocket at the bottom of the trim panel. Its rearmost "wall" is supposed to mate with the rearmost hatch part of the trim panel. They will either be interlocked correctly, or they will not be and you will see a black gap. If you see a black gap, pull that end part of the trim panel back out and re-hook the pocket to the trim panel. If you don't hook these two parts up, you will have a weird judder-type vibration every time you accelerate. Ask me how I know haha... I learned this the hard way while undoing / redoing these same trim panels when I had installed my Ford of Europe towing hitch and its wiring harness. See pics with black gap and without that gap.
14. Once the left side is all closed up and the new cargo anchor point is sticking into the cargo area, repeat these steps on the right side, EXCEPT after you separate the rear of the trim panel away from the body, you will see a big yellow and chrome electrical connector. That's the 12V socket's back side. It has a gray plug & play connector wire. To get the gray wiring connector off, just grab it in its middle (waist) and squeeze from the bottom, and it'll let go (see pic). There is another connector further forward for the trunk light, but it's so far forward you can just leave it connected.
15. Repeat all the steps and then reverse steps #6 thru #1 to zip things back together.
16. Carefully and gently press the rubber seal int place all around the hatch, making sure its lip is over all the trim panels.

Prices:

Forum member Su-Ch+MachE in Germany was kind enough to help research these part numbers, order them and then forward them to me. In Euro, the left and right missing cargo anchor point plates with their riveted rings cost about 47 Euro and 53 Euro (I don't know why the difference as they look like mirror images) and shipping them to me was another 21 Euro or so. This will of course vary as exchange rates vary, but you get the idea... total (not counting two 13 mm nuts and two washers, bought locally) is "about" $125.

Those who have family members or friends serving on permanent U.S. military orders in Europe are likely to get a lower price, as U.S. military permanently stationed in Europe can often avoid paying European Value Added Tax, or VAT, which can make the total price notably cheaper... and U.S. service members can use U.S. Mail from their base to get the parts home.

Availability:
Based on speed of special order delivery, it appears these two brackets are available at local European distribution centers... Su-Ch+MachE got them, once ordered, in 4 or 5 days. And BTW... they are made in Hermosillo Mexico like our own Mach Es. Go figure...

Anyone interested and wishing to see if we can bulk-order sets of these brackets, please DM me with "Cargo Rings" in the title. I will see what the demand is and if by 31 March 2023 there is enough demand, I will contact Su-Ch+MachE for a bulk order.

Sorry for the exhaustive length, and I hope this is useful. Pix are below. And oh BTW... "Thank You Ford USA for making us do all this for silly cargo ring brackets you produce across the border in Mexico" 🙄

20230304_162503.jpg


20230304_162520.jpg


20230304_162622.jpg


20230304_162928.jpg


20230304_163856.jpg


20230304_164104.jpg


20230304_164709.jpg


20230304_170001.jpg


20230304_170040.jpg


20230304_170401.jpg


20230304_171102.jpg


20230304_180754.jpg


20230304_231542.jpg
wow, that's quite a project to add two rings.....

I never use these rings, I use angle blocks with velcro and stick'em to stock carpet cargo pan.
$20 for set of 4. https://www.amazon.com/Multipurpose...ailable/dp/B06VVPWSXM/ref=asc_df_B06VVPWSXM/?

but obviously would not work with rubber cargo mat.
 
OP
OP

21st Century Pony

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wow, that's quite a project to add two rings.....

I never use these rings, I use angle blocks with velcro and stick'em to stock carpet cargo pan.
$20 for set of 4. https://www.amazon.com/Multipurpose...ailable/dp/B06VVPWSXM/ref=asc_df_B06VVPWSXM/?

but obviously would not work with rubber cargo mat.
Yeah... I carry the "full diameter, half as thick" Modern Spare in the trunk, plus the usual travel stuff.

I persisted on the cargo anchor points project in case I am ever in a crash / roll / sliding off the road situation where that large heavy Modern Spare becomes a projectile inside the vehicle, threatening occupants. Goes for other occasional heavy, hard-edged cargo items as well.
 

dtbaker61

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Yeah... I carry the "full diameter, half as thick" Modern Spare in the trunk, plus the usual travel stuff.

I persisted on the cargo anchor points project in case I am ever in a crash / roll / sliding off the road situation where that large heavy Modern Spare becomes a projectile inside the vehicle, threatening occupants. Goes for other occasional heavy, hard-edged cargo items as well.


ooooohhhhh, yes I see your concern if you have stuff in the back you don't want hitting you in the back of the head at 60 mph in a head-on crash.

I have been contemplating a combo cover/ tie down utilizing the carseat pins on the back of the passenger seats with straps from there to the existing D rings in the back of US MMEs. I gave up on the flappy crappy cloth cargo cover a while back..... Just too low a priority to get to at the moment.
 

alangant

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Yeah... I carry the "full diameter, half as thick" Modern Spare in the trunk, plus the usual travel stuff.

I persisted on the cargo anchor points project in case I am ever in a crash / roll / sliding off the road situation where that large heavy Modern Spare becomes a projectile inside the vehicle, threatening occupants. Goes for other occasional heavy, hard-edged cargo items as well.
I have the modern spare, also; it is my primary motivation to add these rings.
 

jgcom

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Yeah... I carry the "full diameter, half as thick" Modern Spare in the trunk, plus the usual travel stuff.

I persisted on the cargo anchor points project in case I am ever in a crash / roll / sliding off the road situation where that large heavy Modern Spare becomes a projectile inside the vehicle, threatening occupants. Goes for other occasional heavy, hard-edged cargo items as well.
I like this idea very much for the modern spare, which I also use. When I carry it, I run a strap from one of the existing tie-downs, through the modern spare case handle, over the spare, around the child seat tie on the back of one of the rear seats, and then back over the spare to the existing floor tie down. This is better than nothing, but we really could use those non-US spec tie downs.
 

HuntingPudel

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I just want to keep the crate from flying around. 😅🐩
 

intensifi

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I took the cargo net out of my X1 and hook it to the existing rings and the LATCH connectors on the back of the rear seats. Works fine for groceries.
 

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Seattle, WA
Vehicles
2022 Mach-e GT, 2016 Porsche Cayman
Anyone without a European friend or a military connection found a way to order these parts? Can't seem to find any (European) mail order web sites that have the part listed. TIA
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