SRP Marketplace Rebates on EV Home Chargers

shutterbug

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The Ford charger is 48 amps, hard-wired and includes Wi-fi. The Chargepoint from SRP is a plug-in that offers 50-amps which is not common on a NEMA 14-50 outlet (oven outlet) as far as I know.
Chargepoint can use the plug that comes with it, or you can remove the plug and hardwire to 60A circuit for 48A charging. The amperage in the Chargepoint is selectable, so it's more flexible (also more expensive than Juicebox). In theory, you could put it on an 80A circuit and charge at 50A, but then you are really in the diminishing returns territory.

SRP lists it with 6-50 plug, but it also comes with 14-50.
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Chargepoint can use the plug that comes with it, or you can remove the plug and hardwire to 60A circuit for 48A charging. The amperage in the Chargepoint is selectable, so it's more flexible (also more expensive than Juicebox). In theory, you could put it on an 80A circuit and charge at 50A, but then you are really in the diminishing returns territory.

SRP lists it with 6-50 plug, but it also comes with 14-50.
I noticed that SRP had omitted the 14-50 plug also! Thank you!
 

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The Ford charger is 48 amps, hard-wired and includes Wi-fi. The Chargepoint from SRP is a plug-in that offers 50-amps which is not common on a NEMA 14-50 outlet (oven outlet) as far as I know.

I went w/ the Grizzl-e, 40-amps for $399.


It's all about your needs. How far do you drive a day on average? What sort of electrical capacity is in your house, how far do the wires have to be run. Lots of variables.

Some people can get away with just using the included charger and plugging into a regular 'ol outlet. This will give you about 3-miles of range per hour of charging. Say 30 miles or so a night. If you drive more than that, you may be in trouble, unless you can make up for it on the weekend.

The next step up would be to install an oven outlet (NEMA 14-50) and use the charger that comes w/ the car. That will give you about 21-miles of range per hour.

The next step up would be a more permanent installation using something like the aforementioned Grizzl-e or others. You get the flexibility of the plug-in and more range per hour. The Grizzl-e will probably get me somewhere around 25-miles of range per hour. This and the previous option would work for the vast majority of drivers.

The next step up from that would be a hard-wired box like the Ford connected charger or others that can charge around 30 miles of range per hour. That's pretty much an empty mach-e (extended range) from complete empty to full every night, which is overkill for the vast majority of drivers.
Thanks for the info and given me somethings to think about. I am a total novice to EVs. I am leaning towards a 14-50 plug. I need to evaluate my break box to see what kind of amperage availibility I have. I really don't think I need a 48 A charger. Most driving will be local with some heavy mileage days. It looks like my charger will be mounted on the exterior of the garage which currently house two Mustangs (husband's garage paperweights!!). So, I need to determine if that will dictate if I can have a plug in or hardwired charger. I do appreciate your time to respond!!
 

macchiaz-o

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For me, the main load center is 85' away from the load center I put in the garage about 15 years ago... And I want the EVSE about another 35' from there. These distances are wire/conduit lengths, i.e. going up/down walls are part of my measurements.

So not as simple, but shouldn't be too hard IMHO.
Had a master electrician actually show up this morning. He's the third one I've contacted. It's been a real chore getting them to show up or even call back, even after I agreed to a quote with a prior one that I'd tried.

He quoted me a price off the top of his head, I agreed to it. He'll be back Friday for the work:

60A-capable service via three 6-gauge conductors (hot, hot, neutral) and one 8-gauge (ground), run in conduit, in-wall and in-attic, to a recessed outlet box in the location where I want it on the other side of the garage. He asked me to supply the NEMA 14-50R and face plate; he is supplying the rest. I'll use that for a few months before I get the Ford wall station via my FordPass Rewards points, at which point I'll replace the receptacle and breaker (assuming he puts a 50A breaker).

He also looked at my handywork from 15 years ago and said it was fine other than some untidy EMT along the house footer.
 

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Had a master electrician actually show up this morning. He's the third one I've contacted. It's been a real chore getting them to show up or even call back, even after I agreed to a quote with a prior one that I'd tried.

He quoted me a price off the top of his head, I agreed to it. He'll be back Friday for the work:

60A-capable service via three 6-gauge conductors (hot, hot, neutral) and one 8-gauge (ground), run in conduit, in-wall and in-attic, to a recessed outlet box in the location where I want it on the other side of the garage. He asked me to supply the NEMA 14-50R and face plate; he is supplying the rest. I'll use that for a few months before I get the Ford wall station via my FordPass Rewards points, at which point I'll replace the receptacle and breaker (assuming he puts a 50A breaker).

He also looked at my handywork from 15 years ago and said it was fine other than some untidy EMT along the house footer.
It's curious that you had a hard time getting an electrician to come out. I made a few calls and 6 out of 7 shouwed up within a week and gave me written quotes. Also why is he insisting that you provide the receptacle and face plate? That seems like a pretty cheap part. Also why not do everything now instead of doing everything now? I would assume that the tax credit and the possible SRP discount would offset whatever Ford Pass rewards offer.
 


macchiaz-o

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It's curious that you had a hard time getting an electrician to come out. I made a few calls and 6 out of 7 shouwed up within a week and gave me written quotes. Also why is he insisting that you provide the receptacle and face plate? That seems like a pretty cheap part.
I only called electricians who are based within a few miles of my house, with clean ROC records, and web sites that don't raise red flags... (For example, I eliminated one because he had "* not a licensed electrician" in small text, embedded in a JPEG on the page so you couldn't find it with Ctrl+F.) I just prefer the idea of getting local contractors versus the big companies.

The first one I called became upset at the end of our nice call, when I mentioned that I was getting at least two quotes. He said "I've always found that the first one called is the last one called back..." It wasn't clear to me at that point that he was letting me know he wasn't going to show up for our appt. But I waited and found out that this is what he meant.

I don't know why I did this, but I called them again about a month later and spoke to someone else there, who gave me a really high quote over the phone without having nearly any details about what the job entailed. So I moved on.

The second one seemed to take days between responses to me... He gave me a quote. I asked for a small change, he gave me a higher written quote via email. I told him the new quote looks great let's do this... No response. I contacted him a couple more times over the next few weeks, no response. So I moved on.

Third one is more responsive if not a little disorganized with how he keeps track of calls, texts, and emails. I figured out that he works best via text, and since then we've been fine. He's just been very busy, and it didn't help that I told him I wasn't in a rush. So it took a while before I finally asked him to schedule an appt, which we just completed this morning. He arrived, we looked, we talked, it was all good. His quote is a bit high, but he's a master electrician with 40 years experience and has installed a lot of EVSEs, fixed code issues, etc. He is referred by a lot of my Nextdoor-app neighbors. (Though maybe that is a bad thing! haha)

So I'm all good now, I think. He should be back Friday to do the work.

Also why not do everything now instead of doing everything now? I would assume that the tax credit and the possible SRP discount would offset whatever Ford Pass rewards offer.
Regarding the EVSE... I'll take the tax credit for the part I'm doing now. I'll keep records of any part I do in 2021 in case tax law changes. And, about a month after getting the new car, I'll have quite a lot of FordPass Rewards points. Enough points that the charger will likely cost less than $200.

@SnBGC raised some concerns with how some of the mobile chargers and lower end wall chargers are not as resilient to our hot summers. They may stop charging or charge very slowly. Ford even acknowledges this issue for the mobile charger in the vehicle owner's manual. Our running theory is MOSFETs versus contactors, but who knows.

The Ford charge station is built by Webasto. Based on what I've observed from other discussions, they seem to build very high quality hardwire EVSEs. We don't have full specs yet, but by the time I'm ready to buy, I assume we will.

If it is built similarly to their existing TurboDX 32A charger, then Webasto's Ford-branded charger should tout a higher operating limit than nearly all of the competition (131 F instead of 122 F). My garage gets quite hot at peak summer, possibly due to southwest exposure and no shade.

So I think I will be fine with the mobile charger until summer, but at some point before peak heat arrives, I'll have stowed it back in the car and hung a permanent charger on the garage wall.

In my opinion, the strong alternatives to Ford's charger are the options from Grizzl-E and Clipper Creek. Of those two, the Grizzl-E is priced much better and has the flexibility of changing amperages should needs change.

I suspect the ChargePoint HomeFlex is also an excellent choice... There's just one small thing I don't care for on it, which is that max current is set via a smart phone app instead of via hardware switches or dials. (JuiceBox is this way, too.) I'm sure it's probably fine, but I like the extra safety and assurance of the hardware limiter.

JuiceBox chargers have poor reliability from what I've read. Maybe it's better now with their new models, but I'm weary of the brand. Too many failures reported after a year or two of use.
 

macchiaz-o

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why is he insisting that you provide the receptacle and face plate? That seems like a pretty cheap part.
I'm not sure why he wanted me to get the receptacle and plate... I didn't ask why. Just a guess, but maybe he doesn't want responsibility for me asking him to install a 14-50R when it turns out later that the car arrives and has some other plug. Who knows.

Anyway, I picked those up at Home Depot today, along with a circuit breaker just in case he intended me to get that, too. I'll return it if it isn't needed.
 

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I mostly followed a similar strategy, except I didn't limit it to the to nearby electricians. I also asked them to provide 2 separate quotes. One for 14-50 plug on a 50A circuit and one for hardwired on a 60A circuit. In each case both were pretty close. What was curious that some were slightly higher for the plug, while others were slightly lower. In the end I chose hardwired Chargepoint. I don't have an attic over my garage, so the conduit will run over walls and ceiling in the garage. I just wish APS had a deal similar to SRP, so I'd have to spend $250 less.
 

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I mostly followed a similar strategy, except I didn't limit it to the to nearby electricians. I also asked them to provide 2 separate quotes. One for 14-50 plug on a 50A circuit and one for hardwired on a 60A circuit. In each case both were pretty close. What was curious that some were slightly higher for the plug, while others were slightly lower. In the end I chose hardwired Chargepoint. I don't have an attic over my garage, so the conduit will run over walls and ceiling in the garage. I just wish APS had a deal similar to SRP, so I'd have to spend $250 less.
So yeah the conduit in wall/attic is one of the things pushing up cost for me. Also that it's a 35-40' run from the location on the one wall over to the location for the charger, and 6 gauge wire isn't cheap or easy to work with.

He quoted me $875 for all the work... We'll see, I hope he follows through. It would have been $725 or so to have the outlet on the wall instead of recessed, and with a little bit of exposed conduit... I opted for the higher cost option because it'll just look a bit cleaner and I won't need any flex conduit or whatnot for hooking up the wall charger.

The two earlier quotes were about $475 to $800 or so.
 

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So yeah the conduit in wall/attic is one of the things pushing up cost for me. Also that it's a 35-40' run from the location on the one wall over to the location for the charger, and 6 gauge wire isn't cheap or easy to work with.

He quoted me $875 for all the work... We'll see, I hope he follows through. It would have been $725 or so to have the outlet on the wall instead of recessed, and with a little bit of exposed conduit... I opted for the higher cost option because it'll just look a bit cleaner and I won't need any flex conduit or whatnot for hooking up the wall charger.

The two earlier quotes were about $475 to $800 or so.
For comparison mine was $1057 total. My service panel is one side of my 2-car garage door and the evse is on the other side of the door. All hidden went up into the ceiling and back down. Also hung up the Grizzl-e for me.
 

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For comparison mine was $1057 total. My service panel is one side of my 2-car garage door and the evse is on the other side of the door. All hidden went up into the ceiling and back down. Also hung up the Grizzl-e for me.
Cool. That's just about the same then, since I'd have to pay another fee to install the EVSE if I want him to.
 

macchiaz-o

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Why? The page says "UL and cUL Listed". It's possible that SRP is lying, but why would they?
It says that under the Juicebox EVSE column, not for the adapters.

How could an adapter that allows a device using a 50A plug to connect to a 30A circuit pass certification?
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