Stainless steel brake lines installed review 😃

[Mach-Lee]

Since the pedal is normally decoupled from the hydraulics, I don't think you'll be able to feel any difference with the SS brake lines. So this mod may be of questionable value.

Fusion had crappy soft brake lines to begin with (which are now recalled for bursting), so there would have been a much bigger difference there than on most cars.

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[21st Century Pony]

Since the pedal is normally decoupled from the hydraulics, I don't think you'll be able to feel any difference with the SS brake lines. So this mod may be of questionable value.

Fusion had crappy soft brake lines to begin with (which are now recalled for bursting), so there would have been a much bigger difference there than on most cars.

Well, we shall see...

 

[HuntingPudel]

Since the pedal is normally decoupled from the hydraulics, I don't think you'll be able to feel any difference with the SS brake lines. So this mod may be of questionable value.

Fusion had crappy soft brake lines to begin with (which are now recalled for bursting), so there would have been a much bigger difference there than on most cars.

Yeah, the stock brake hoses on my T/A, the Blazer, and my Celica were just great, with not much difference in swapping to steel braided teflon hoses. I have had several other cars where the hoses made a difference (the MG was one and some friends’ Nissans benefitted). I didn’t do the Fusion, so….

The MME has some funky looking hoses but they appear to be pretty pressure solid. I still might want to swap them out just because they’re funky looking to me.

 

[21st Century Pony]

So the rear stainless steel brake lines went onto my Mach E about 800 miles ago.

I thought I could tell there was a difference, but... and of course with the weight transfer frontwards on any vehicle during braking, I knew the real test would be only with all four corners swapped out.

The front stainless steel brake lines had to go back to the manufacturer for Version 2 because things didn't quite work with the way the inside surfaces of the front caliper are cast. Version 2 got to me earlier this week, and went on yesterday.

This is what beta testing is for, even with a new set of OEM lines as samples for the assembly line.

I drove about 40+ miles today with all four new stainless steel lines installed, in heavy Washington DC area late afternoon traffic as it turned out. Up and down I-395 for those familiar with the area... from Arlington down to Fort Belvoir (had to get some plush Army bears for the youngest generation) and back up to Arlington. Got up to about 70+ mph in spots. This was mostly straight-ahead driving on an Interstate and on some streets with lots of stop-and-go.

My early verdict: it's a worthwhile upgrade. It doesn't create a whole new car but it does help with braking feedback. How: about the bottom half of brake pedal travel, from maybe midway down to the floor, indeed feels more precise as I had hoped. The result is, to my surprise, that for the 1st time in "normal" driving I have a much better feedback on how heavy this car really is. Now at the bottom half of the brake pedal travel, I can really feel the weight of the car bearing down on the brakes as I modulate and feather them and slow down, especially as I do so rapidly. Before, the rubber brake line OEM tubes, short as they are, must have been masking this quite a bit because I never had this feeling before, despite having driven 50+K miles in this car in all kinds of weather conditions. The best I can describe it for now is the difference between grabbing something spinning with a heavy insulated leather+felt glove, and grabbing the same spinning thing with a pair of long channel lock pliers. There's just more modulation and more feeling for how much energy the moving piece has.

I like this new feeling... I tend to put it into "more feedback is good" folder.

Now, this is early days yet. I want to put the Mach E through its paces on some mountain and hilly curvy roads and perhaps report back here.

HOW TO BUY: now that the stainless steel brake lines are on the Mach E and I do feel a notable difference, I chatted with the local speed shop business owner who deals with the manufacturer in Indianapolis all the time and who put me onto that company for this effort. I will write some tech comments up and send them to both the manufacturer and to the local speed shop owner so they can lock down the details of any kit offered.

The manufacturer had liquidated their Internet store some years ago and they now deal exclusively with reputable established speed shops who actually sell their stainless steel brake line kits for cars.

Both the manufacturer and the potential seller involved in this trial effort are aware of the MachEForum and when they work out the kit aggregate parts number, take some nice pix and agree on a price, I will post the speed shop's URL with the Mach E stainless steel braided brake line kit for sale here on the forum.

A word of caution: although I have switched out and gravity-bled brake systems before by myself, I want to warn potential brake line swappers that the Mach E brake system is another breed of cat: to swap its brake lines, one needs (at a minimum) an FDRS license because of all the integrated electronics and code manipulation needed. One very good, well-respected brake shop in a major metropolitan area backed out of this effort because they just hadn't yet invested in all the Ford newest generation brake-relevant hardware and software to attempt this, although they plan to, one of these years. There's more to it than just an FDRS license... just be aware that there might be some labor costs as well unless the buyer really knows what they are doing and has some equipment available beyond driveway-level stuff like in the days of yore.

In the meantime, I'll go do some more driving, since I have my Mach E back now with a new front motor (separate issue, separate thread) AND new improved brakes . To be continued...

 

[markboris]

So the rear stainless steel brake lines went onto my Mach E about 800 miles ago.

I thought I could tell there was a difference, but... and of course with the weight transfer frontwards on any vehicle during braking, I knew the real test would be only with all four corners swapped out.

The front stainless steel brake lines had to go back to the manufacturer for Version 2 because things didn't quite work with the way the inside surfaces of the front caliper are cast. Version 2 got to me earlier this week, and went on yesterday.

This is what beta testing is for, even with a new set of OEM lines as samples for the assembly line.

I drove about 40+ miles today with all four new stainless steel lines installed, in heavy Washington DC area late afternoon traffic as it turned out. Up and down I-395 for those familiar with the area... from Arlington down to Fort Belvoir (had to get some plush Army bears for the youngest generation) and back up to Arlington. Got up to about 70+ mph in spots. This was mostly straight-ahead driving on an Interstate and on some streets with lots of stop-and-go.

My early verdict: it's a worthwhile upgrade. It doesn't create a whole new car but it does help with braking feedback. How: about the bottom half of brake pedal travel, from maybe midway down to the floor, indeed feels more precise as I had hoped. The result is, to my surprise, that for the 1st time in "normal" driving I have a much better feedback on how heavy this car really is. Now at the bottom half of the brake pedal travel, I can really feel the weight of the car bearing down on the brakes as I modulate and feather them and slow down, especially as I do so rapidly. Before, the rubber brake line OEM tubes, short as they are, must have been masking this quite a bit because I never had this feeling before, despite having driven 50+K miles in this car in all kinds of weather conditions. The best I can describe it for now is the difference between grabbing something spinning with a heavy insulated leather+felt glove, and grabbing the same spinning thing with a pair of long channel lock pliers. There's just more modulation and more feeling for how much energy the moving piece has.

I like this new feeling... I tend to put it into "more feedback is good" folder.

Now, this is early days yet. I want to put the Mach E through its paces on some mountain and hilly curvy roads and perhaps report back here.

HOW TO BUY: now that the stainless steel brake lines are on the Mach E and I do feel a notable difference, I chatted with the local speed shop business owner who deals with the manufacturer in Indianapolis all the time and who put me onto that company for this effort. I will write some tech comments up and send them to both the manufacturer and to the local speed shop owner so they can lock down the details of any kit offered.

The manufacturer had liquidated their Internet store some years ago and they now deal exclusively with reputable established speed shops who actually sell their stainless steel brake line kits for cars.

Both the manufacturer and the potential seller involved in this trial effort are aware of the MachEForum and when they work out the kit aggregate parts number, take some nice pix and agree on a price, I will post the speed shop's URL with the Mach E stainless steel braided brake line kit for sale here on the forum.

A word of caution: although I have switched out and gravity-bled brake systems before by myself, I want to warn potential brake line swappers that the Mach E brake system is another breed of cat: to swap its brake lines, one needs (at a minimum) an FDRS license because of all the integrated electronics and code manipulation needed. One very good, well-respected brake shop in a major metropolitan area backed out of this effort because they just hadn't yet invested in all the Ford newest generation brake-relevant hardware and software to attempt this, although they plan to, one of these years. There's more to it than just an FDRS license... just be aware that there might be some labor costs as well unless the buyer really knows what they are doing and has some equipment available beyond driveway-level stuff like in the days of yore.

In the meantime, I'll go do some more driving, since I have my Mach E back now with a new front motor (separate issue, separate thread) AND new improved brakes . To be continued...

This sounds like a great weekend project. When I get time, will look into it. Thanks.

 

[agdad]

So that's what that big wide pedal is for !

 

[21st Century Pony]

So that's what that big wide pedal is for !

See Post #13 above haha...

 

[Teslaeata]

about the bottom half of brake pedal travel, from maybe midway down to the floor

……..down to the floor………really?

 

[21st Century Pony]

……..down to the floor………really?

Well... when you are in the chicane and running fast after leaving the bank with the bag of bitcoin... oh right that's the video game.

 

[Pushrods&Capacitors]

Hmm. I have to say, because the MME brake pedal is decoupled from the hydraulic circuit you’d prob get better braking “feedback, initial bite or whatever” you’re seeking from going to a set of street performance non-ceramic compound pads. Those 4-piston front Brembos are just asking for a higher performance pad compound.

I’ve replaced OEM lines with SS lines on Fox bodies and F bodies that I tracked and there was a definite improvement but on a daily MME I struggle to see it. Good high temp fluid and aggressive pads always made the biggest difference.

 

[21st Century Pony]

Hmm. I have to say, because the MME brake pedal is decoupled from the hydraulic circuit you’d prob get better braking “feedback, initial bite or whatever” you’re seeking from going to a set of street performance non-ceramic compound pads. Those 4-piston front Brembos are just asking for a higher performance pad compound.

I’ve replaced OEM lines with SS lines on Fox bodies and F bodies that I tracked and there was a definite improvement but on a daily MME I struggle to see it. Good high temp fluid and aggressive pads always made the biggest difference.

RGR... why not do both? Which pads would you recommend?

I do mods like this one step at a time, so as to hear / feel any changes individually.

On motorcycles, in my experience, SS lines always made the biggest difference so I volunteered to be the test rabbit in this effort. I understand that motorcycles and heavy cars are different animals... yet they conceptually do similar things as it comes to braking.

I wasn't sure whether I'd feel any difference yet that wasn't a reason not to try it, right? That's how we do it in America ha haa... ...and it turned out that there indeed IS a difference with the SS lines.

BTW - since I was the test rabbit the SS prototype lines were offered free to me, so I have no "sunk cost" bias.

I can try to explain the difference I feel (posts above) while not being able to explain everything about how the guts of this car's brake-related systems interact. Had there been no noticeable difference, I would not have offered the feedback here. Life is too short, and all that.

Thank you.

 

[markboris]

I wish carbon-ceramic rotors were available for the Mach-E. NOT for the braking aspect as much as for the better ride, handling and steering because of the massive loss of unsprung weight. It made a huge difference on my GT500.

EBC makes their Yellowstuff brake pads for the font only unfortunately. I used them on my Escape and they improved the responsiveness of the braking quite well.

 

[21st Century Pony]

EBC makes their Yellowstuff brake pads for the font only unfortunately. I used them on my Escape and they improved the responsiveness of the braking quite well.

O.K.... now I'll have to look Yellowstuff up More ways to spend some pennies on the Mach E (sigh).

This is why I read this forum... I never know what I'll learn.

 

[markboris]

O.K.... now I'll have to look Yellowstuff up More ways to spend some pennies on the Mach E (sigh).

This is why I read this forum... I never know what I'll learn.

Been using EBC brake pads for years. Usually buy their Yellowstuff pads but on the Focus RS used their RP-1 light racing pads when on the track.

https://ebcbrakes.com/products/automotive-brake-pads/

 

[Pushrods&Capacitors]

RGR... why not do both? Which pads would you recommend?

I do mods like this one step at a time, so as to hear / feel any changes individually.

On motorcycles, in my experience, SS lines always made the biggest difference so I volunteered to be the test rabbit in this effort. I understand that motorcycles and heavy cars are different animals... yet they conceptually do similar things as it comes to braking.

I wasn't sure whether I'd feel any difference yet that wasn't a reason not to try it, right? That's how we do it in America ha haa... ...and it turned out that there indeed IS a difference with the SS lines.

BTW - since I was the test rabbit the SS prototype lines were offered free to me, so I have no "sunk cost" bias.

I can try to explain the difference I feel (posts above) while not being able to explain everything about how the guts of this car's brake-related systems interact. Had there been no noticeable difference, I would not have offered the feedback here. Life is too short, and all that.

Thank you.

I get it, no harm in trying something and SS lines almost never make brakes feel “worse”. As far as pad compound recommendations, I just haven’t really looked tbh. Anything from a reputable maker in a semi-metallic street performance category would probably be good. Stoptech, EBC, Hawk etc. prob have options. Just be ready for more brake dust
Edit: and maybe noise, especially when cold

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