dtbaker61

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In the absence of mountains, driving 100 MPH for about 20 miles should get things VERY toasty. YMMV.
I'd bet that a charge from empty to full to pre-heat the HVBJB, and then sustained high loads (either sustained high speed, or a loop up and down mountains with plenty of accel and regen),
and then plugging it right back in for more charging.... repeating if required, would do the trick.

I'm tempted, but really can't think of a handy time to be without my car for days waiting for the replacement. I REALLY wish the Dealership were allowed to order at least one HVBJB for Inventory.... then, I'd test my theory.
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Yet another update to the first post on this thread! Major thanks to @DevSecOps and @WyldStallyn for maintaining this thread (and the map) and for supporting the many forum members experiencing an HVBJB replacement. I know I will be well prepared when my GTPE gets its turn.
 

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I'd bet that a charge from empty to full to pre-heat the HVBJB, and then sustained high loads (either sustained high speed, or a loop up and down mountains with plenty of accel and regen),
and then plugging it right back in for more charging.... repeating if required, would do the trick.

I'm tempted, but really can't think of a handy time to be without my car for days waiting for the replacement. I REALLY wish the Dealership were allowed to order at least one HVBJB for Inventory.... then, I'd test my theory.
Mach N Cheese's HVBJB #1 turned into melted cheese less than a week after I drained my battery to 0% SOC through highway driving, followed by DCFC to 100% to document the new charge curve. I'm sure I had my contactors nice and toasty in this process.
 

pr3dict

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I understand the logic, but I prefer data over logic. The data suggests that post recall failure has nothing to do with DCFC or open throttle events. I'd say close to 50% of the vehicles with failure have never used DCFC once. 100% of SVS has happened over 50mph.
Almost spot on for me... I L2 charged overnight to 100% and then drove for about 1 hour 45 minutes at around 80-85mph on the interstate. The last stretch of 15 minutes I was at a 40mph roll I think after a light turned green and I WOT'd my GT to pass a car and get in a turning lane before the next light (about a quarter mile away) and thats when the pony pulled a muscle.
 


pr3dict

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We won't say how fast it really was... but I think you're off by a few mph 🤫
Lol are you asking or telling 😅? If my memory serves me well it was 80-85 bcuz I was trying to keep it in bluecruise with the occasional not keeping it in bluecruise hahah
 
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Lol are you asking or telling 😅? If my memory serves me well it was 80-85 bcuz I was trying to keep it in bluecruise with the occasional not keeping it in bluecruise hahah
I'm telling you. The car recorded your speed when the failure was triggered. You can look here for the last 4 of your VIN and you'll see a MPH column with your speed.
 
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pr3dict

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I'm telling you. The car recorded your speed when the failure was triggered. You can look here for the last 4 of your VIN and you'll see a MPH column with your speed.
Ah would you look at that... Supports your case even more lol.
 

dtbaker61

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I'm telling you. The car recorded your speed when the failure was triggered. You can look here for the last 4 of your VIN and you'll see a MPH column with your speed.
I just took a look at this table..... facinating!

What jumps out at me however is the column showing Amps@ time of failure.... mostly during 'acceleration events' by the looks of it with values over 300 amps being prevalent.

The columns for Battery and coolant temps are not indicative of much in my opinion. After looking at my live data via ODB2/CarScanner, I would suggest you pull the data showing the AC and DC charge connection sensors at time of failure if you can. CarScanner shows these sensors as:
ChgACTemp
ChgDCTemp

Those sensors are the closest thing we have to the actual Contactors. I have observed these sensors recording temps 140-155F at the end of a charge.... which is the basis for my guess that 'warming up' the HVBJB with a long charge, and then cycling thru WOT (200kW) and full 1-p regen (around 80kW) will heat up the contactors even quicker than sustained high speed (maybe 50kW) unless you are also going up a substantial hill at the same time.

I have observed that the SC/DC connection temps not only rise significantly during a long charge, but they also rise with heavy acceleration or 1-p regen... and get gradually pulled down if you take it easy.

I was watching motor coil temps for a while, but they never got too hot.

I was a little surprised to see how how the DC Charge connection sensor got at the end of a longish L2 charge. This display screenshot was taken after about 4 hours of charging at 32amps in my garage.... ambient temp was about 77F

Ford Mustang Mach-E Stop Safely Now (HVBJB): Mach-E Owners Biggest Fear - Facts and Info Thread dashboard_3 chrgrTemp 155F
 
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I would suggest you pull the data showing the AC and DC charge connection sensors at time of failure if you can.
It's not available in the snapshot from the DTC. I pull basically everything that I can. There's a lot of other data points that are saved but they are all true/false type datapoints that aren't relative.
 

dtbaker61

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It's not available in the snapshot from the DTC. I pull basically everything that I can. There's a lot of other data points that are saved but they are all true/false type datapoints that aren't relative.

too bad....
I'm pretty sure the temp sensor data there at the charger connection points would be 'enlightening'.
 

WyldStallyn

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Yet another update to the first post on this thread! Major thanks to @DevSecOps and @WyldStallyn for maintaining this thread (and the map) and for supporting the many forum members experiencing an HVBJB replacement. I know I will be well prepared when my GTPE gets its turn.
I get way more credit than I deserve. Todd is the one who has been on top of this for months and keeps these threads updated.
 
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tek314159

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I'm officially on my second HVBJB replacement, 2021 GT.

I have a thread on this site detailing my initial experience, with a Stop Safely Now after getting dinner. That was back in April. They replaced the part, but I guess it was still the old version. A few weeks ago, I got a 'Service Vehicle Soon'. The car auto-reduced max power draw, but it was still driveable. Took the car in.

I like my dealership, but the service advisor I got this time seems a bit lacking. He'd initially told me it was some wire that might have frayed, and they'd ordered the part and were waiting. After the part was delayed again, I asked for the part number so I could look into it myself, and lo and hold, it was LK9Z10C666B. Which, from info on this thread, seems to be the new HVBJB. Car has been at the dealer for more than two weeks now, but the part supposedly came in today and so I should see it again in a day or two, I guess. I hope. I can't wait to get back in and on the road.

Anyone else in the HVBJB two-timer club?

Just want to put out a big 'thanks' and 'you guys rock' to all the forumites here. It's been a great resource, and I really appreciate it.
 

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Still waiting here - going onto the 6th week now, dealership is still paying for the rental car, been told fuel will be refunded out of "goodwill" so I'm keeping the receipts. Furthermore Ford credit have now offered to refund the time I've been without my vehicle and worst case if this isn't resolved soon they may "reject" the vehicle. So this is getting interesting.
 

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I am still driving mine. I'm in limp mode (again) and a new hvbjb is ordered.
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