mpshizzle
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In this guide I'll be covering FDRS, what it is and how to use it.
What is FDRS?
It stands for "Ford Diagnosis and Repair System". Made by Ford for reading trouble codes, programming modules, updating modules, etc.
Why Would I Want to Use it?
This is really only for the die-hard DIYer. If your dealer is a **Insert nasty word of your choice here** and/or you just want to tinker this is for you.
Are there alternatives to FDRS?
Yes! Forscan is a great, free option. I won't cover it here but it has much of the same diagnostic and programming functionality. It is missing some key features though, such as updating module software as well as some service routines.... You may now snigger at how bad that name sounds in the English language.
A Few Disclaimers to Start
What You'll Need to Run FDRS
A Laptop Running Windows 7 or 10
I used a MacBook Pro running Windows 10 on bootcamp
Windows 11 seems to work as well if you're on the bleeding edge
A J2534 Interface
This is what connects your computer to the OBD II port on the car. Quick disclaimer, cheap OBD adapters like this DO NOT work. They're fine for Forscan and Torque, but FDRS specifically requires support for the J2534 protocol.
FDRS Officially supports these devices:
The adapter I used was This. It's a third party option that worked for what I did and the price is... less... ridiculous
A 12 Volt Power Supply
Some updates can take over an hour. During these updates the car will not be maintaining the little baby 12v battery the Mach E comes equipped with. If the battery goes kaput during the update, the update goes kaput as well. Since we're not in the business of making bricks here you need a power supply to keep this from happening. Mind you I said "power supply" not "battery charger". I didn't measure, but I hear the car can draw upwards of 30A during the updates.
I DO NOT recommend doing what I did, but I'm overly cheap sometimes. I happen to have a gigantic RV battery just sitting around for another project, so I ran jumpers to the RV battery to assist. It did the job just fine. But again, that is NOT a recommendation.
An FDRS License
There are a few websites that pop up if you Google this, but the one you want is Ford's official https://www.motorcraftservice.com/
To get the license
If you are using the mongoose adapter like me, make sure you visit their website, download, and install the driver before running FDRS.
I unfortunately didn't take any screen shots of the update itself but there are 2 kinds of updates. One just runs straight from the laptop. The other requires the use of a USB flash drive that you plug into the SYNC system.
A couple of things on the USB drive part. It says it wants a 32 GB drive, but of the updates I installed the largest was like 150 MB. So my 16GB drive did the job just fine. The other "gotcha" is there's a restart involved. At some point the sync screen will tell you that the update is complete, and that you need to turn off and get out of the vehicle. At this point I removed the USB drive. DON'T DO THAT. After a few failed attempts I realized that once you restart, it'll think for a moment and then tell you that the update is finished (again). THEN you can remove the drive. I felt like an idiot but it fooled me.
Making this Guide Complete
I am not the most knowledgeable person on this forum about this. So if anyone has anything to add or correct, please do so!
If you'd like to see all of this in action, @scoopman made a great video of the process
What is FDRS?
It stands for "Ford Diagnosis and Repair System". Made by Ford for reading trouble codes, programming modules, updating modules, etc.
Why Would I Want to Use it?
This is really only for the die-hard DIYer. If your dealer is a **Insert nasty word of your choice here** and/or you just want to tinker this is for you.
Are there alternatives to FDRS?
Yes! Forscan is a great, free option. I won't cover it here but it has much of the same diagnostic and programming functionality. It is missing some key features though, such as updating module software as well as some service routines.... You may now snigger at how bad that name sounds in the English language.
A Few Disclaimers to Start
- FDRS comes with risks. It's meant to be used by dealers and shops. If something goes wrong you can brick your car. So using it is NOT for the faint of heart. It's not for the cheap of heart either, but we will get to that in a moment ?
- Seriously, you have been warned. FDRS and your car's hardware do have built in safety measures to prevent damage. But if something happens while following this guide, YOU are liable for any repair/replacement. If the idea that something could go wrong makes you squeamish, this is not for you.
- Yes yes yes.. I know this information is found elsewhere on the forum, but I wanted to make a central location with all of the information together.
What You'll Need to Run FDRS
A Laptop Running Windows 7 or 10
I used a MacBook Pro running Windows 10 on bootcamp
Windows 11 seems to work as well if you're on the bleeding edge
A J2534 Interface
This is what connects your computer to the OBD II port on the car. Quick disclaimer, cheap OBD adapters like this DO NOT work. They're fine for Forscan and Torque, but FDRS specifically requires support for the J2534 protocol.
FDRS Officially supports these devices:
- VCM II
- VCMM
- VCM3
The adapter I used was This. It's a third party option that worked for what I did and the price is... less... ridiculous
A 12 Volt Power Supply
Some updates can take over an hour. During these updates the car will not be maintaining the little baby 12v battery the Mach E comes equipped with. If the battery goes kaput during the update, the update goes kaput as well. Since we're not in the business of making bricks here you need a power supply to keep this from happening. Mind you I said "power supply" not "battery charger". I didn't measure, but I hear the car can draw upwards of 30A during the updates.
I DO NOT recommend doing what I did, but I'm overly cheap sometimes. I happen to have a gigantic RV battery just sitting around for another project, so I ran jumpers to the RV battery to assist. It did the job just fine. But again, that is NOT a recommendation.
An FDRS License
There are a few websites that pop up if you Google this, but the one you want is Ford's official https://www.motorcraftservice.com/
To get the license
- Create a Motorcraft account
- Go to this menu
3. Once you click through you'll be prompted to log in again on a wonderfully 90s looking website.
4. Click Purchase Additional Licenses (It may just say Purchase Licenses for you)
5. Choose which subscription period you want. Note it says FJDS on here, not FDRS. Don't fret, this license is still the right one
6. Once the purchase is complete it will take you to a download page with installation instructions.
Running Updates on FDRSIf you are using the mongoose adapter like me, make sure you visit their website, download, and install the driver before running FDRS.
- Plug in the adapter and turn on the car
- Open FDRS. Choose " Non-Dealer Motorcraft" and log in.
- It will then ask you how you are connecting to the car. If you're using the same adapter I did it should show up under "other device"
4. Hit "Read VIN from vehicle" and then "Go"
5. After a few moments it will take you to the vehicle page. Click Continue
6. Go to the "SW Updates" tab and it will show you any modules that aren't up to date (mine had a lot). From here you can download and run them. The system does a great job of walking you through the process. If there are particular updates that have to happen in a specific order, FDRS will automatically take care of that and install all of them one after the other.
How Updates WorkI unfortunately didn't take any screen shots of the update itself but there are 2 kinds of updates. One just runs straight from the laptop. The other requires the use of a USB flash drive that you plug into the SYNC system.
A couple of things on the USB drive part. It says it wants a 32 GB drive, but of the updates I installed the largest was like 150 MB. So my 16GB drive did the job just fine. The other "gotcha" is there's a restart involved. At some point the sync screen will tell you that the update is complete, and that you need to turn off and get out of the vehicle. At this point I removed the USB drive. DON'T DO THAT. After a few failed attempts I realized that once you restart, it'll think for a moment and then tell you that the update is finished (again). THEN you can remove the drive. I felt like an idiot but it fooled me.
Making this Guide Complete
I am not the most knowledgeable person on this forum about this. So if anyone has anything to add or correct, please do so!
If you'd like to see all of this in action, @scoopman made a great video of the process
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